Hybrid Connections and Batteries?!?
- Thread starter Logan Littrell
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Hybrid connection doesn't really have anything to do with the amp draw on a battery. What you want with a "hybrid" cap is an atomizer that has a center pin that protrudes beyond the 510 threads. You DO NOT want something spring loaded or floating.
However, 0.1 ohm on a fresh battery is 42 amps. To my knowledge, there are no 18650 batteries that can safely handle that amp draw.
However, 0.1 ohm on a fresh battery is 42 amps. To my knowledge, there are no 18650 batteries that can safely handle that amp draw.
Right, which is why I provided information about the types of atomizers that should/should not be used on a "hybrid" cap. The amp draw is a separate issue, but since the OP mentioned a build that would draw more than any single 18650 battery can handle, we addressed that too.
For some reason I don't think the B&Ms which have been selling these hybrids aren't selling matching hybrid attys...
Apparently I haven't been very good at researching this issue? What is the lowest ohms that I should be building to on a mech mod that is still safe?
I use the mutation x v3 and it has a pretty far protruding pin. should be good for a hybrid?
You are going to want a safe-chemistry, high-drain battery with a high CDR. How high? I'll quote @tj99959 as this is the practice I follow with regards to amps & headroom.
When considering how low you can build you need to give yourself some headroom. I try to never exceed 50% of the CDR (continuous discharge rating) of a fully charged battery (4.2v). So with a 20A battery (like the Samsung 25r), that would be 10A. This Ohm's Law Calculator tells me that a 0.4Ω build is as low as I would want to use.
The reason that I place a 50% limit is because as a battery ages the mAh of the battery degrades, as the mAh degrades so does the batteries c rating (amp limit). So down the road, a 20A battery may only be a 10A battery."
_________
I highly recommend you spend some time with @Baditude & @Mooch (two of our resident battery/safety experts) and visit their blogs. You are now 100% in control of your own safety (and others around you). Make sure you purchase an ohm reader and a voltmeter or DMM so you can measure your builds, check for shorts and measure the remaining charge on your batteries.
Here are links to some of Mooch's blogs:
* No matter what is printed on the battery wrapper: There are no 18650 batteries with a genuine rating over 30A!
* Links to all his battery tests to date: List of My Battery Tests | Mooch's Blog
* Picking a Safe Battery to Vape With: Table of 18650 Battery Safety Grades | Mooch's Blog
Baditude's Blog - Table of Contents: The blogs that address battery safety, Ohm's Law, CDR (continuous discharge rating/Amps) and how they all work together are detailed below:
BATTERIES
Battery Basics for Mods - The Ultimate Battery Guide
* Another essential read to understand which batteries are safe to use in mechanical and regulated mods. Includes a frequently updated list of recommended safe-chemistry, high-drain batteries with their specifications.
Purple Efest Batteries not as Advertised
* A cautionary blog that reveals that the purple Efest batteries may not have the specifications advertised. Also includes a commentary on "continuous discharge ratings" vs "pulse discharge ratings" of battery specs.
OHM'S LAW
Ohm's Law Explained for Vapers
* My attempt at explaining Ohm's Law in layman terms and how it relates to vaping.
Explain it to the Dumb Noob: Ohm's Law Calculations
* As simple as it is to use, some people have a tough time grasping the concept. Warning: Includes graphic photos of mod explosions.
BATTERIES - WHERE TO BUY
Only buy batteries from a reputable supplier (not ebay or Amazon) as there are many counterfeit batteries being sold. Here are several reputable battery suppliers in the US.
* RTD Vapor
* Illumination Supply
* Lighthound
* Orbtronics
I assume it's not a TRUE hybrid, but a "hybrid top cap" like a SMPL or 4nine mod, where there are 510 threads but the atomizer center pin makes direct contact to the positive end of the battery.
There have been a number of posts where a B&M sells a "hybrid" mod and something like a subtank, which has a spring loaded center pin, and bad things happen.
Ideally you want to stay under the max continuous amp draw of the battery. For the Samsung 25R I believe that is 20amps, which means you want to stay at or above 0.21ohm
ETA: Susan's post above is correct, but also very conservative. It's your safety though so I'll let you decide how safe you want to play it.
I think so, but I don't have one so I can't confirm. You want the center pin to stick out like this:
Your batteries should be good down to the point of about .35 to .45ohms, this still gives you some amp headroom. Remember, just because a battery can do a certain level of amps, "DOES NOT" mean you need to go there, always give yourself 50 to 25% headroom for mishaps as well as, hotter you make a battery, you decrease its optimal output, aging it quicker than it normally would, and they age normally, decreasing in Mah and their C rating, so by about 6months down the road the battery has 50% of its effectiveness 1/2 the mah rating and 1/2 the amp C rating. Lowest I would build my atty's on my mechs anymore is 0.25 to 0.3ohms, and I only run Sony VTC4 and LG HB6 in my mechs, 30amp rated, and no matter the label on a battery like Efest and several others print on them, beside the Sony and LG listed, there is no other battery out there that has a CDR amp rating over 30amps. More goes into chucking a cloud beside lower ohms, air flow vortexing, coil config, and most importantly, your lung capacity, so if you are trying to keep up with a buddy with twice your chest size, you'll never keep up with him, he's got twice your lung capacity.
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