Hi. On the kanger protank replacement heads, there's a clear rubber at the base where the wick is. Does this need to be removed?
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Ok. Will do. Was wondering if that was why I was getting a burnt taste. Thank you.
I trimed mine down and remove wicks from the atty that aren't wrapped in the coil, you have to pull apart the atty to doso. Put back ttogether and good taste now 
Take the flavor wicks out specially if using thicker juices. The flavor wicks are the 2 wicks on top just sitting there over the main wicks that are wrapped in the coils. Always try it without removing then remove 1 at a time of needed.
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Removing one or more of the wicks will allow thicker juice to saturate the coils better. If you look at the wicks by removing the plastic washer and pulling the shaft, you'll see two loose wicks and under that there is a third wick that is wrapped with resistance coil. That's the heating element. Some of the thicker juices have a tough time getting down to the coils through the top two wicks.
Some of the thinner juices can have issues as well if you chain-vape....
Some of the thinner juices can have issues as well if you chain-vape....
In my experience with the Protank so far, if the any wicks are removed the device goes from not leaking at all( with all wicks) to leaking when the tank gets about a 1/3 empty. Personally any leaking at all bugs the hell outta me. I vape mostly 50/50 juice and the Protank vapes very well. I would leave the wicks in.
NO! If you're getting a burnt taste, it means that not enough eliquid is getting to the heating coil on time and you're vaping on a dry coil--very bad thing.
Don't chainvape--ejuice needs a little time to travel to the coil after each drag.
Take primer puffs--just a few gentle puffs without activating your battery--this will get any air bubbles that may be blocking the pathway to the coil out of the tank and will force the juice onto the coil.
ETA--I vape 70/30 PG/VG eliquids for the most part and I never had to modify anything--I'm using the T3, baby T3, eVods and Protanks.
Good luck and happy vaping!
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I usually just remove one of the top wicks, for my 30/70 PG/VG juices it works pretty nicely.
Would you please give a comparison between T3, MT3, and the protannk?
Thanks.
Thanks.
NO! If you're getting a burnt taste, it means that not enough eliquid is getting to the heating coil on time and you're vaping on a dry coil--very bad thing.
Don't chainvape--ejuice needs a little time to travel to the coil after each drag.
Take primer puffs--just a few gentle puffs without activating your battery--this will get any air bubbles that may be blocking the pathway to the coil out of the tank and will force the juice onto the coil.
ETA--I vape 70/30 PG/VG eliquids for the most part and I never had to modify anything--I'm using the T3, baby T3, eVods and Protanks.
Good luck and happy vaping!
With pleasure. They are all variations on the same theme, but performance-wise, I find them all to be nearly identical.
The T3 and baby T3 (my personal favorite) are just plain BCC clearomizer, eGo-threaded, 15mm diameter, easy to fill and clean. They come with changable coil that is permanently attached to to the base, which means that one has to buy the entire base and the actual coil unit, which makes it expensive (~$3). MT3 is a T3 in a metal shell--a plastic tank in a metal shell with a window--I don't own that one.
eVod coil head:
eVod is smaller than T3 and it also comes in a metal shell--but replacement coils are cheaper because one only needs to buy the coil unit--not the base. That said, Kanger is changing the design of the T3 to match that of the eVod and Protank, which means the price of the replacement coils will go down 50% or so.
Protank is made out of glass, is much heavier and comes with a 510 connection--not eGo connection like all the others. Protank is designed to be used on larger betteries (20mm diameter), but many people use it on eGo-class batteries with the attached thread cover.
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Katya, sorry I wasn't clear on my question. Appologize, and thanks for taking time on this. Can you give e your comment vaping experience between the protank and the T3? Things like vapor product, leaks/wet, reliability, burn fluid quick (funny I found that some clearomizer burn fluid faster than another), feeling when vaping each, etc. Hope you know what I mean.
Thanks Katya.
Thanks Katya.
With pleasure. They are all variations on the same theme, but performance-wise, I find them all to be nearly identical.
The T3 and baby T3 (my personal favorite) are just plain BCC clearomizer, eGo-threaded, 15mm diameter, easy to fill and clean. They come with changable coil that is permanently attached to to the base, which means that one has to buy the entire base and the actual coil unit, which makes it expensive (~$3). MT3 is a T3 in a metal shell--a plastic tank in a metal shell with a window--I don't own that one.
eVod coil head:
eVod is smaller than T3 and it also comes in a metal shell--but replacement coils are cheaper because one only needs to buy the coil unit--not the base. That said, Kanger is changing the design of the T3 to match that of the eVod and Protank, which means the price of the replacement coils will go down 50% or so.
Protank is made out of glass, is much heavier and comes with a 510 connection--not eGo connection like all the others. Protank is designed to be used on larger betteries (20mm diameter), but many people use it on eGo-class batteries with the attached thread cover.
The T3s have a reputation of being very inconsistent in quality. I wouldnt use them - the eVod are way more reliable, does the same job and better. I cannot comment on how the T3 is because they are so inconsistent across the board that any perception is pretty much useless.
The biggest difference between Protank and T3/eVod is the draw: Protank gives a very airy, light draw. I dont like it because it dilutes my flavor, thats why i rebuild it. But many are happy with it out of thr box. This is a matter of personal preference.
The Protank is quite big and hefty, so i would recommend it as more of a home use thing. It leaks a little more than the eVod, but holds more juice. As far as burning through juice, both are about the same.
The Protank feels a little better than the eVod to me, but it may just be me since i like my devices just like my watches: heavy and solid.
The biggest difference between Protank and T3/eVod is the draw: Protank gives a very airy, light draw. I dont like it because it dilutes my flavor, thats why i rebuild it. But many are happy with it out of thr box. This is a matter of personal preference.
The Protank is quite big and hefty, so i would recommend it as more of a home use thing. It leaks a little more than the eVod, but holds more juice. As far as burning through juice, both are about the same.
The Protank feels a little better than the eVod to me, but it may just be me since i like my devices just like my watches: heavy and solid.
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Thanks Kanj,
On the protank's airy, it's only the feeling of airy but lot of vapor product, or airy with less vapor product?
You said you rebuilt it for the purpose of preventing airy? Can you go more into this? Rebuiling coil/wick can get rid of this airy feeling when sucking on it, or something else you could do, for example eliminate the air vent/hole?
Thanks again Kanj.
On the protank's airy, it's only the feeling of airy but lot of vapor product, or airy with less vapor product?
You said you rebuilt it for the purpose of preventing airy? Can you go more into this? Rebuiling coil/wick can get rid of this airy feeling when sucking on it, or something else you could do, for example eliminate the air vent/hole?
Thanks again Kanj.
The problem, for me, with the airy draw is that you have too much air and too little vapor in one draw. This does not mean that the Protank produces any less vapor than any other devices; it just means that the vapor takes up a smaller portion of what you draw into your mouth, so the taste is muted. I vape for the flavor first and foremost, so this bothers me.
Once you determine this is indeed the problem, naturally there are two directions you can take to solve it: reduce air, or increase vapor. Blocking the airhole with a toothpick tip falls into the first category. I took the latter; i made a build that burns a lot of juice in one hit. More vapor in your mouth means better vapor/ air ratio means better flavor.
Once you determine this is indeed the problem, naturally there are two directions you can take to solve it: reduce air, or increase vapor. Blocking the airhole with a toothpick tip falls into the first category. I took the latter; i made a build that burns a lot of juice in one hit. More vapor in your mouth means better vapor/ air ratio means better flavor.
I have never had any problems with my T3s, or my eVods, but I agree that the draw is a bit on the airy side. I plug one of the air holes at the knurled base with a toothpick or a tiny bit of Blue Tac--works like a charm. To me eVods are just as airy as the T3s. My favorite one is the T3 mini, as I like to change flavors often and I don't like big tanks.
The ProTank is possibly the cleanest tasting of them all, but it is hefty and I only use it on my APV. I need to plug an air hole on it also to fully enjoy it. If you're using an APV, get a tank airfow controller--they are really nice.
Tank Airflow Controller
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I use 100% vg and have no problems using this method. I'd get dry hits before doing this.
Tighten the thread cover and block 1 or 2 of the air slots in the side. Doing this will ensure the liquid in the tank will be drawn through onto the coil. Not doing this means the Protank gives a loose draw and not enough suction on the liquid in the tank. Apart from that i wouldn't recomment doing anything else. Each time you draw you suck through more liquid onto the coil so a loose draw will cause you to get dry hits with an insufficient amount of liquid getting to the coil.
Tighten the thread cover and block 1 or 2 of the air slots in the side. Doing this will ensure the liquid in the tank will be drawn through onto the coil. Not doing this means the Protank gives a loose draw and not enough suction on the liquid in the tank. Apart from that i wouldn't recomment doing anything else. Each time you draw you suck through more liquid onto the coil so a loose draw will cause you to get dry hits with an insufficient amount of liquid getting to the coil.
I agree airy. I just rebuilt it with 400 mesh and 32 gauge at 1.8 ohms. Works great and have never gotten another dry hit since.
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Great info guys! New ex-smoker here and I have my first Pro on the way. Will def. try blocking the air hole like I did on my T3. Can I use an 1.8 ohm E-vod head on this to help out the problem? Haven't goten some wire and wick yet (but I know I'm heading there).
Thanks
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