Looking to delve fully into Cloud Chasing, but need your help!

[Brandon Rauls]

Alright, I'm just making sure, I sure as hell don't want to be walking around with a bomb, so I'd rather be safe and ask you guys, and have to just scrap the eFest batteries if needed, than use them, say ah, whatever, these will be fine! So, I just had to make sure!

 

[smacksy]

Alright, I'm just making sure, I sure as hell don't want to be walking around with a bomb, so I'd rather be safe and ask you guys, and have to just scrap the eFest batteries if needed, than use them, say ah, whatever, these will be fine! So, I just had to make sure!

No worries! Let us know how it goes

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[Brandon Rauls]

Affirmative, I do plan on making another post once I get the parts and get everything built, because I have seen some concerned people that think I may not be ready, well, for those of you who think that, I do plan on practicing making coils before putting them on the RDA, and vaping, I'm gonna practice for at least two weeks literally just making coils before doing any firing to make sure I have the technique down, I'm going to go to my local vape shop when the batteries come in, double and triple check to make sure those batteries are going to do just fine with a .2 Ohm build, etc etc. Just because I've only got research and YouTube videos under my belt and no experience, doesn't mean I'm not dedicated, plus, I can only get experience, by trying, we all have to start somewhere!

 

[readeuler]

Just learn about your device, I don't know what you landed on, whether it was a high wattage regulated mod, or a mech. I air on the side of caution, because batteries harness a lot of energy in a small container. If you're using three 18650's in series, as in the IPV3, that's 12.6 volts on a fresh charge, the nominal voltage of a car battery; just something to think about when we're being cavalier with battery safety and justifying high amp drains to someone who's processing a lot of information.

Anyway, here's a thread in the Sig 100w, couldn't find any threads about a 150w mod.

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=636622

Good luck.

ETA: it was MXJO that seems to have rewrapped VTC4's, another battery that seems to have a true 30A CDR.

 

[smacksy]

Also a good ohms calculator is needed to see for yourself what your build needs are to power it safely..several are online as a download like this one. I entered in a.2 ohm build in resistance and 4.2 v in power..calculate and you see it pulls 21A, so a 35A battery is plenty safe to use...applying ohms law to all my builds let's me vape safely with no worries, and blow clouds that have to be seen to be believed. Lol..

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[DadEh]

Now this is a very valuable and interesting thread.
I am like the OP and would love to venture into building my own... But this is not going to happen for quite sometime!!!!
Even with the searching I am currently doing, I don't want to run any risks.
My local B&M has agreed to help and tutor me but we have both agreed that it will be sometime and after a lot of watching him build his own.

Be safe in your new project but I would be interested to know how you made out.

 

[beckdg]

Batteries capacity is measured in Amp Hours or a variation of such so,

a 1.0 ohm build at 50 watts is drawing 7.071 amps
a 0.1 ohm build at 50 watts is drawing 22.361 amps

So with that information the .1 ohm build is drawing over 3 times the power from the battery as the 1.0.

try calculating both of those with only power and battery voltage. forget what's happening elsewhere. it has no effect on what's actually being pulled from the battery.

 

[Ryedan]

Also a good ohms calculator is needed to see for yourself what your build needs are to power it safely..several are online as a download like this one. I entered in a.2 ohm build in resistance and 4.2 v in power..calculate and you see it pulls 21A, so a 35A battery is plenty safe to use...applying ohms law to all my builds let's me vape safely with no worries, and blow clouds that have to be seen to be believed. Lol..

Very good advice smacksy and that calculator is accurate for battery draw in mech mods. The watts it calculates is what is pulled from the battery, not what is delivered to the atty though because the atty does not see all 4.2 volts so that setup will not be vaping at 88 watts, probably closer to 65 watts depending on how good the battery is.

That formula doesn't work for battery amp draw in regulated mods. This is the Steam Engine Battery Drain calculator. Click on 'regulated (APV)', 'Mode - power regulation (VW)', 'Power (wattage) setting - 88 watts', 'APV efficiency - 90%', 'Battery voltage - 4.2v' and you'll see the battery current draw is 23.28 A. Lower the battery voltage to 3.2v and the battery drain goes up to 30.56 A because the chip will still make 88 watts but battery voltage is lower so it needs to draw more amps to make the power.

 

[smacksy]

Thanks! I use it mostly to figure my amp demands using my builds for my mechs..gotta stay safe! Lol

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[Neolithium]

Well I've already got the RDA I'm using, which is the Mutation X V2.

But, I saw someone talking about my battery of choice which is..
Amazon.com: 4 Efest Purple IMR 18650 2500mAh 35A 3.7v Rechargeable Flat Top Batteries: Electronics

Stating that I'd need more powerful batteries if I want to build down below a .3 or a .2 Ohm build.
Which batteries should I be going for, for the safest batteries and most powerful?

I'm also looking at buying these
http://www.amazon.com/LG-18650-2500...-2&keywords=18650+35a+battery#customerReviews

Are those true 35 Amperage batteries? Or just 35 Pulse?

IF NOT, where can I find true 35A continuous batteries? Because I am wanting to build down to .2 and .1 Ohms.

They're 20A continuous draw. The EFest 2500mah 18650s are rewrapped LG HE2's. The 35A on them is the pulse rating.

If you want to do builds that need past 20A you'd be smart to get TRUE 30A batteries.

 

[Big Me]

Affirmative, I do plan on making another post once I get the parts and get everything built, because I have seen some concerned people that think I may not be ready, well, for those of you who think that, I do plan on practicing making coils before putting them on the RDA, and vaping, I'm gonna practice for at least two weeks literally just making coils before doing any firing to make sure I have the technique down, I'm going to go to my local vape shop when the batteries come in, double and triple check to make sure those batteries are going to do just fine with a .2 Ohm build, etc etc. Just because I've only got research and YouTube videos under my belt and no experience, doesn't mean I'm not dedicated, plus, I can only get experience, by trying, we all have to start somewhere!

I would suggest that you start building (and using) your coils at around 1.5Ω and gradually work your way down. That way, not only will you learn about how to perfect your coils but also how to wick (which is just as important).

No point in wrapping a brilliant coil if you end up with dry hits. (Not pleasant!)

 

[KenD]

Ohm's states that .2 ohm build pulls 21A at 4.2 v (fully charged batt) you will be fine using the 35A Efest..

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As others have noted, the 35a Efests are actually 20 amp batteries. Using a .2 ohm build exceeds the capability of the battery, and exceeding the 20 amp limitation is a bad idea.

 

[smacksy]

I would suggest that you start building (and using) your coils at around 1.5Ω and gradually work your way down. That way, not only will you learn about how to perfect your coils but also how to wick (which is just as important).

No point in wrapping a brilliant coil if you end up with dry hits. (Not pleasant!)

OP stated he is planning to build a dual coil dripper, the Mutation X I believe, to use on a mech mod..a 1.5 ohm build would be great in a Kayfun but wouldn't produce much vapor using the RDA he chose..
Building down from about .5 ohms would be a good starting point and go down with practice is good advice..and no such thing as a dry hit on a RDA unless you forget to drip it before taking
a hit...lol

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[smacksy]

As others have noted, the 35a Efests are actually 20 amp batteries. Using a .2 ohm build exceeds the capability of the battery, and exceeding the 20 amp limitation is a bad idea.

They been working great for me the last 3 mos powering my .15 builds without any issues whatsoever...enough said

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[catalinaflyer]

try calculating both of those with only power and battery voltage. forget what's happening elsewhere. it has no effect on what's actually being pulled from the battery.

I guess I don't see a way to calculate what your asking unless the coil is variable wattage (resistance) If you use a specific voltage and a specific amperage in ohms law you get a specific resistance required to draw that amperage resulting in a specific wattage.

For example:
4.1 volts at 7 amps requires .586 ohms resistance to draw the 7 amps producing 28.7 watts of power.

It's a mathematical equation the requires two constants to get the variable. No matter how you plug the numbers into the equation the outcome is a function of those two inputs.

I don't see how one can bend ohms law to use three set numbers but I'm probably missing something or not nearly as smart as I thought I was so in the interest of not looking like a fool I'm just going to back away from this one all together and keep doing what works for me. I've been calculating battery life on electric flying things for 30 years and we have always been within a few percentage points (+/- 3%) using ohms law, amperage drawn, parasitic drain etc to figure these things out. We typically don't like to send a priceless one-off drone into the unknown without knowing. I take a given motor that produces X rpm and put a bigger prop on it and the wattage output goes up as does the amperage required to maintain that wattage and the battery life goes down. The voltage on the battery doesn't change, if I'm using a 20s pack the starting voltage is still 82 volts whether I'm drawing 1 amp or 100. The internal resistance of the battery will dictate how much the voltage sags but that's another variable we haven't even touched on.
Again I'm trying to relate work to this hobby and apparently there's something I have missed.

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[Neolithium]

They been working great for me the last 3 mos powering my .15 builds without any issues whatsoever...enough said

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Your build is in the pulse rating. 99.99999% of people who coil build will get a continuous discharge rating for what they need, not delve into the pulse rating. It's ridiculous to suggest someone builds above their batteries capability on here. Enough said. Would you recommend someone build a 0.15 ohm build on an LG HE2? I doubt anyone up to date with battery safety would say "Go nuts, pull more than 20A out of your 20A battery and have fun."

 

[smacksy]

Your build is in the pulse rating. 99.99999% of people who coil build will get a continuous discharge rating for what they need, not delve into the pulse rating. It's ridiculous to suggest someone builds above their batteries capability on here. Enough said. Would you recommend someone build a 0.15 ohm build on an LG HE2? I doubt anyone up to date with battery safety would say "Go nuts, pull more than 20A out of your 20A battery and have fun."

Not going to debate with you dude..
As I've stated before the proof is my Efest batts is the fact I've been doing that for the last 3 mos without any issues whatsoever..the batt rating of 35A must be close to specs for my .15 ohm build pulls 28A at 4.2V and the 35A Efest powers it flawlessly in my XXIX/zenith seen here..

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[beckdg]

I guess I don't see a way to calculate what your asking unless the coil is variable wattage (resistance) If you use a specific voltage and a specific amperage in ohms law you get a specific resistance required to draw that amperage resulting in a specific wattage.

For example:
4.1 volts at 7 amps requires .586 ohms resistance to draw the 7 amps producing 28.7 watts of power.

It's a mathematical equation the requires two constants to get the variable. No matter how you plug the numbers into the equation the outcome is a function of those two inputs.

I don't see how one can bend ohms law to use three set numbers but I'm probably missing something or not nearly as smart as I thought I was so in the interest of not looking like a fool I'm just going to back away from this one all together and keep doing what works for me. I've been calculating battery life on electric flying things for 30 years and we have always been within a few percentage points (+/- 3%) using ohms law, amperage drawn, parasitic drain etc to figure these things out. We typically don't like to send a priceless one-off drone into the unknown without knowing. I take a given motor that produces X rpm and put a bigger prop on it and the wattage output goes up as does the amperage required to maintain that wattage and the battery life goes down. The voltage on the battery doesn't change, if I'm using a 20s pack the starting voltage is still 82 volts whether I'm drawing 1 amp or 100. The internal resistance of the battery will dictate how much the voltage sags but that's another variable we haven't even touched on.
Again I'm trying to relate work to this hobby and apparently there's something I have missed.

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i was speaking strictly in terms of amp load on the battery. what happens elsewhere is calculated elsewhere. to match a battery to the load as to not over power it, we're not really interested in how long a charge will last. that's a separate issue altogether. we just don't want to overload the battery. and since the battery voltage output isn't going to increase when we change the variables on our variable device to suit our amp needs, we need to ensure that that power output isn't going to create more amp load than the battery can handle at the voltage the battery will output.

so say our device cuts the battery off @ 3.2V.

say we're always going to want 50 watts.

our highest amp load will be at 3.2V from the battery.

4v @ 50 watts = 12.5 amps

3.2v @ 50 watts = 15.625 amps

resistance in these calculations... assuming the output is true and no loss across the circuitry... includes battery internal resistance and all resistances along the way.
given that we may be including a boost regulator in some cases, our atty resistance only leads to confusion. say in this case we're running a 1 ohm coil. but the regulator is boosting the voltage to get 50 watts. our battery, at 3.2 volts is still seeing 0.2048 ohms because the regulator is boosting the voltage to give us that 50 watts.

so even though, at the atty we're getting 1 ohm, roughly 7 volts and roughly 7 amps, we're still pulling 50 watts from the battery... that hasn't changed it's voltage to meet our output... so it's range will be betweeh 12.5 and 15.625 amps throughout the discharge curve for each charge cycle.

 

[KenD]

Not going to debate with you dude..
As I've stated before the proof is my Efest batts is the fact I've been doing that for the last 3 mos without any issues whatsoever..the batt rating of 35A must be close to specs for my .15 ohm build pulls 28A at 4.2V and the 35A Efest powers it flawlessly in my XXIX/zenith seen here..

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The fact that you haven't had an incident doesn't mean that the batteries are safe above their amp draw limit. It only means that you haven't had an incident, yet. I've had casual sex without using a condom and haven't gotten an std, doesn't change the fact that it's a really stupid thing to do. It's irresponsible to suggest that it's safe to exceed the continuous discharge rating of a battery.

 

[smacksy]

Funny you should say that..its true I haven't any incidents ..but I got a IPV3 150w box mod for Christmas..its sad that it puts my high end mechs to shame in performance plus now I don't have to build so low to worry about batts blowing up anymore., its a great upgrade for me, and will probly go regulated for now on..pic is the IPV3/Dark Horse..a dual 24g build at .5 ohms.. it produces tons of vapor at 85 watts....

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