Need help!

[buklao]

Hi everyone, Im fairly new to vaping. I have an ego twist and recently purchased a kangertech unitank. It was really good, has 2.2 coil at 4v. I filled it with a 100%VG juice for more vapor prod then it started to leak at the bottom and locked the bottom cap and now i cant get it open. Any suggestions?

Also, with that being said, im a cloud chaser and wants a huge amount of vapor therefore im going to move into mechanical mods. Im also a first year mechanical engineering student so I know quite a few stuff. Just wondering what materials do I need?

ChiYou clone / King Clone / Nemesis Clone are my choices. (I like the brass with gold plating finish)

Not sure for RBA/RDA's yet.

Silica, wick, kanthal wire (no idea, need help!)

batteries (dont want to blow up a mod on my hand/face)

Ohm meter?

Any other parts that im missing please fill it in!

All the knowledge that I need, please feel free to inform me! Thanks everyone!

 

[wonner]

You don't want to hear this, but here it goes.

You are moving too fast. Relax and learn to use what you have. Learn to get the best taste out of what you have.

Do exhaustive research while doing the above so you don't end up throwing good money after bad. Been there, done that, got the t-shirt to prove it.

Sorry, I had to say it.

 

[Plumes.91]

I'd also recommend you chillax for a moment and enjoy what you've got. Get a rebuildable for your regulated mod before you move to rebuilding for mechanical mods. Rebuilding + unprotected mech mods = danger. You need to read up on rebuilding before you set out to rebuild for unprotected mods. Starting a thread is a step in the right direction but it also suggests you haven't searched the forum. Too many people have come back to ECF complaining that their mod's end cap is destroyed because they did NO research on rebuilding. I've heard too many horror stories of people coming close to knocking their teeth out.

Basically, most GOOD rebuilders start out on regulated mods. You need a regulated mod to test your resistance anyway. You also need it to know where your battery's charge is at in the beginning so you can take your batteries out of your mech mod when the vape seems to be getting less intense even when the wick is saturated. If you don't learn to test your batteries when the vape is getting weak, and you never learn when to take undercharged batteries out of your mech mod, you increase your risk of thermal runaway exceedingly.

There is a lot to learn. So start out on whatever regulated mod you have. If you don't have a protected mod with a screen, you'll need one to rebuild. Unless you'd rather buy a battery tester & an ohm meter, on top of the new mechanical mod and rebuildables + supplies. I'd also recommend you get yourself a 2cents4safety fuse if your truly brand new to rebuilding. Its a little $5 circuit that prevents your battery from exploding in the event of a hard short. You'll want to read up in the rebuilding forums here on ECF and learn all you can about preventing shorts/thermal runaway, ohms/resistance for different gauges of wire and amount of coils. The thinner the coil, the less resistance. 28/29 gauge is thick. 32 being of the thinnest kanthal.

You want Kanthal A-1 Grade. Thats the only grade I've seen sold on most vaping sites. You'll want to experiment with silica, eco-wool, and cotton before you move up to stainless steel mesh. SSmesh must be oxidized with a torch/heat or carbon layer prior to vaping it without a metalic taste/poss. shorts.

For batteries, you have to use HIGH DRAIN IMR batteries. AW batteries are usually the only batteries I'd ever recommend someone new to rebuilding. They have a safer chemistry than Li-ion and LiMn batteries and they test best against all other batteries other than the hybrids, but hybrids are confusing.

 

[Jazzi Mike]

Buy a Reo and Reomizer combo.

 

[Baditude]

I'll also ask that you slow down, do a LOT of research prior to purchasing a mechanical mod and an RBA. These are not as simple as an eGo battery and a clearomizer, whether you are an engineer or not. It's very good that you are asking questions first before jumping headfirst into more advanced vaping, which can be extremely dangerous if you don't know what you are doing.

The following links will help get you started:

Cloud Chasing is Dangerous

Mechanical Mod Proper Usage Guide

Information Resources for Your First RBA

Battery Basics for Mods: IMR or Protected?

Deeper Understanding of Mod Batteries

 

[Vapoor eyes er]

Agree with what others have said. Move more slowly and first get used to your present setup. Nothing wrong with your plans but maybe just a little too soon= frustration and possibly safety issues.

 

[Mark Anthony]

You don't want to hear this, but here it goes.

You are moving too fast. Relax and learn to use what you have. Learn to get the best taste out of what you have.

Do exhaustive research while doing the above so you don't end up throwing good money after bad. Been there, done that, got the t-shirt to prove it.

Sorry, I had to say it.

This exactly ^^^^^ you're trying to jump from the frying pan into the fire. A leaking tank is no reason to make such a big jump.

 

[WillyZee]

welcome to ECF buklao ... the best advice has already been given.

The answers to your original questions will come from reading more here on ECF

 

[buklao]

Thanks to everyone who replied. Any ideas on my unitank? I dont know why the bottom end, where i should be changing the coil, is stuck and I cant get it open.

Its my 3rd clearo that i had a problem with, so i thought id move to rebuildable attys.

Other than that, i can probably get a cheap VV/VW just like the second person suggested instead of getting an ohm meter, that way I can maybe enjoy my rebuildable atty while learning.

Altho I wanted to get the basic stuff all at once because its christmas and its going to get busy (shipping/stocking issues) and more parties = more drinking = more fun = more vaping.



Just dont want to spend more money and wait for shipping time on other clearos as well. Might as well spend my money on stuff that I can use/reuse than disposables i guess.

 

[DrillRX]

Hi everyone, Im fairly new to vaping. I have an ego twist and recently purchased a kangertech unitank. It was really good, has 2.2 coil at 4v. I filled it with a 100%VG juice for more vapor prod then it started to leak at the bottom and locked the bottom cap and now i cant get it open. Any suggestions?

Also, with that being said, im a cloud chaser and wants a huge amount of vapor therefore im going to move into mechanical mods. Im also a first year mechanical engineering student so I know quite a few stuff. Just wondering what materials do I need?

ChiYou clone / King Clone / Nemesis Clone are my choices. (I like the brass with gold plating finish)

Not sure for RBA/RDA's yet.

Silica, wick, kanthal wire (no idea, need help!)

Batteries (dont want to blow up a mod on my hand/face)

Ohm meter?

Any other parts that im missing please fill it in!

All the knowledge that I need, please feel free to inform me! Thanks everyone!

The Astro Clone in my opinion is a little better built than those you stated, and has a knurled lock ring so it's easy to unlock.
Look closely at the components of the mods in question especially the center positive post. Alot of them are to large in diameter and will short out some tanks (Protanks and vivi's from what i've seen) unless the positive post on your tank or RDA have a protruding positive post.

Nicrome wire is my favorite. (60% nickel, and doesn't seem to cake up very much for some reason) or Kanthol. I use 32 gauge wire because I can make micro coils and if I want bigger wire I just double it up and twist it (you'll need to torch it to hold the twist).

Cotton wicks if using RDA are a good choice for keeping flavor (never dry burn a cotton wick, it WILL catch on fire) and they are cheap and easy to change size, and to pull through pre built coils.

Large RDA atomizer. Currently my favorite is the Patriot RDA because of it's internal space for coils and wicks. It's a bit pricey at $70 but well worth it. If you save a bit on a well built clone mechanical mod you can spend a bit more on the RDA.

MNKE (or monkey), 1500 mah batteries. They are rated at 20 amp output continuous and 30 amp pulse limit so you can run really low ohm coils in confidence.

An ohm meter that you can screw your atomizer, whatever it may be, onto to check ohms can be had for around $20

 

[Baditude]

Any ideas on my unitank? I dont know why the bottom end, where i should be changing the coil, is stuck and I cant get it open.

Its my 3rd clearo that i had a problem with, so i thought id move to rebuildable attys.

Other than that, i can probably get a cheap VV/VW just like the second person suggested instead of getting an ohm meter, that way I can maybe enjoy my rebuildable atty while learning.

Just dont want to spend more money and wait for shipping time on other clearos as well. Might as well spend my money on stuff that I can use/reuse than disposables i guess.

Not at all familiar with the Unitank. My guess is you over-tightened the bottom end. You could attempt to unscrew it with a couple pair of pliers.

Most clearomizers today are "rebuildable", meaning the coil heads are "replaceable" with pre-made replacement coil heads. You don't need to actually rebuild them with your own handmade coils.

Innokin iClear 16 & 30, Kanger Evod and Protanks, Vision Vivi Nova are all clearomizers which have replaceable coil heads available at most online vendor stores.

 

[Vapoor eyes er]

I filled it with a 100%VG juice for more vapor prod then it started to leak at the bottom and locked the bottom cap and now i cant get it open. Any suggestions?

Just a wild guess as I have no experience with that clearo but is it possible when you assembled it the threads became stripped- not threaded properly? This might account for the leaking and the "locked" issue. I know from experience with plastic tank clearos it's very easy to mis- thread the parts.

 

[Amberina]

Your problem with the unitank happens to me all the time. What happens is that every time you adjust the tank on your battery, you are actually tightening the base of the tank to the body. I actually had to take mine to my local vape shop to get them to open it for me (sadly I have NO tools at home). They just used two pairs of pliers to open it. Hold the base portion with one pair and the body with the second pair and twist.
To prevent it from happening again just make sure you hold on to the base when you tighten it to your battery. Since I started doing this it has not happened again! (and it happened OFTEN!!)

Good Luck!!

 

[devauto]

Okay, I just dis-assembled my unitank to see what I could determine that might help. It looks like there are 2 possibilities...

1. You over-tightened it and the silicone seal is too compressed and causing it to both leak and refuse to unscrew.
2. You cross-threaded it and stripped out the threads, which would also account for the leaking and sticking.

It's a pretty simple tank system, and I don't see anything else that looks like it could be the problem. You can try using pliers to hold the metal base and unscrew it. This will provide a little more leverage than just your hands alone, but may damage the finish on the base. Do NOT use the pliers on the tank though, it is far to easy to damage or crack it.

Once you do get it apart, I would suggest filling it with water and setting it aside for a while to see if it is still usable or if it still leaks. Theoretically, if you damaged it, you should be able to purchase replacement parts instead of buying a whole new tank. In reality however, I have not yet seen anywhere to buy the individual parts (although I have not looked extensively yet).

Also, when you put it together, don't tighten it as much as you can, same for when installing it on your battery. Just tighten it finger tight, that should be sufficient. You can always tighten it a little more if need be, but once you over tighten and damage it, you can't undo it. Most tanks only need to be "snug" to keep them together. Over tightening can damage or destroy your tanks (and batteries too).

HTH!

 

[buklao]

Okay, will try and plier them off when I get home today. Thanks a lot to everyone who replied and helped!

In any case, feel free to post more information that you want to share for my benefit and for the benefit of the experienced and new vapers that come across this thread!


Btw, this is what i think im getting for myself, just getting it for the sake of having it now than wait, but following everyones advice to take it slow.

Chi You clone brass - gold plated $25.00
Aios clone - silver pin
Trident 24k gold plated RDA
Igo-W RDA
SS chi you drip tip
Ohm meter
Vamo V3/itaste MVP/SVD (undecided yet because i dont know which vv/vw apvs are good right now)
Wire and wick (dont know yet)

Everything from fasttech instead of having diff purchases from diff ppl from ebay. Or if u know a reliable one that has good products, let me know.

Again, feel free to suggest on anything thanks in advance!

 

[Plumes.91]

As long as you have a general understanding of the laws of ohms to volts/watts and a GOOD understanding of shorts, and how to prevent them/avoid them and fix them should they arise, and as long as you know the added work for using SS mesh over silica/cotton, and as long as you rebuild your first 5-10 coils on a protected regulated mod, it sounds like you have the money it takes to get everything do everything safely. I still recommend you go to the rebuilders forum right here on ecf and read through the stickies that strike you as having tips and content that you don't yet fully understand. The mods your buying sound pretty good. Keep in mind that most everything from fasttech is a chinese made clone of a more expensive mod. Even that 24k gold trident from FT is a clone of the real Trident. Clones have made a lot of progress in the last year and they are generally of good or pretty good quality. The Igo-W isn't a clone and its 1 of the best RDAs I can recommend you. If you do get a VAMO/MVP2 you dont NEED an ohm meter. Regulated mods check ohms and battery life left in the battery.

Your going to need to research rebuilding to figure out what wire gauge your going to want. The wire gauge you choose will dictate how many coils you'll have to make around the wick material to reach the resistance you want. I use cotton for everything because its so cheap and it typically warns me by not giving me a good hit PRIOR to giving me a dry hit, which I like about it over silica. You'll want to head to the rebuilding forum and learn more about amperage, voltage, wattage, and their relationship to ohms as well. Good luck.

 

[buklao]

As long as you have a general understanding of the laws of ohms to volts/watts and a GOOD understanding of shorts, and how to prevent them/avoid them and fix them should they arise, and as long as you know the added work for using SS mesh over silica/cotton, and as long as you rebuild your first 5-10 coils on a protected regulated mod, it sounds like you have the money it takes to get everything do everything safely. I still recommend you go to the rebuilders forum right here on ecf and read through the stickies that strike you as having tips and content that you don't yet fully understand. The mods your buying sound pretty good. Keep in mind that most everything from fasttech is a chinese made clone of a more expensive mod. Even that 24k gold trident from FT is a clone of the real Trident. Clones have made a lot of progress in the last year and they are generally of good or pretty good quality. The Igo-W isn't a clone and its 1 of the best RDAs I can recommend you. If you do get a VAMO/MVP2 you dont NEED an ohm meter. Regulated mods check ohms and battery life left in the battery.

Your going to need to research rebuilding to figure out what wire gauge your going to want. The wire gauge you choose will dictate how many coils you'll have to make around the wick material to reach the resistance you want. I use cotton for everything because its so cheap and it typically warns me by not giving me a good hit PRIOR to giving me a dry hit, which I like about it over silica. You'll want to head to the rebuilding forum and learn more about amperage, voltage, wattage, and their relationship to ohms as well. Good luck.

Great stuff! I just actually posted a thread asking for help with a regulated mod to serve as my practice/intro to mech mods lol!

But yeah im quite aware of the FT stuff that are clones. But will do try people's suggestions. Really planning to have a vamo v5 and an igo-w but i was still unsure so i just had to keep asking until im satisfied with information. LOL