I recently started smoking from a small atomizer that I got for 20$ at Spencers... I am interested in the innokin MVP II.... thoughts? Should i get the III instead of II?
New To Vape....
- Thread starter Corey Boothby
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Welcome to ECF Corey, make yourself right at home 
I have no opinion ... what do you think?
I have no opinion ... what do you think?
From a vendors site:
Compare to Innokin iTaste MVP 2.0 Box Mod, Innokin paid extra attention to the durability of the Innokin iTaste MVP 3.0 Box Mod. The device has been designed to withstand drops and day-to-day usage. The solid aluminum casing coupled with the stainless steel ports makes the iTaste MVP 3.0 lightweight and very durable
Plus you get a few more watts. I'd say go for the 3.0, more growing room so to speak.
Compare to Innokin iTaste MVP 2.0 Box Mod, Innokin paid extra attention to the durability of the Innokin iTaste MVP 3.0 Box Mod. The device has been designed to withstand drops and day-to-day usage. The solid aluminum casing coupled with the stainless steel ports makes the iTaste MVP 3.0 lightweight and very durable
Plus you get a few more watts. I'd say go for the 3.0, more growing room so to speak.
okay, I am very very new to vaping and am not sure what you mean with watts/new tanks and batteries/ohms etc.. I do smoke hookah, and enjoy learning smoke tricks, so I would like to form large clouds. Would that require more watts? or more ohms??
If you're looking at "cloud chasing" then you'd want to get into the Sub Ohm world. Basically, this is using more power, more air flow, more juice, and more knowledge needed. I recommend the Kanger Subtank Mini as a great Subtank. The .5 ohm coils need at least 25 to 30 watts (watts is power measurement) to fire the coil to vaporize the juice. Subohms are any coil measurement under the benchmark of 1.0 ohm. Your starter kit probably has a 2.0 ohm coils in it (or there abouts). This is why I suggested the MVP 3 over the 2. The 2 won't be a cloud chaser for you, it doesn't have enough power. I have an MVP 3 and love it with the Kanger Subtank Mini.
The Kanger Subtank Mini comes with a factory 1.5 ohm coil (12 to 20 watts to vape it) a .5 factory coil (up to 30 watts to vape it), and a build deck where you can make your own coils (cheap in the long run). You can buy the 1.5 and .5 coils, they will last from a week to two weeks each.
The Kanger Subbox kit is nice if the only tank you're going to use is a Kanger made one. It has a fixed 510 pin (the pin that makes contact with the bottom of the tank to pass electricity). In my opinion this is a weekness of the Subbox. The MVP has a spring loaded 510 pin , and easily adjusts to different makes of tanks.
With the Subbox you'll need 18650 size batteries and an separate battery charger is highly recommended. The MVP is an internal battery, no extra charger needed.
There are literally 100's of mods (the battery part) available to use to vape.
DEALS and STEALS - Deals and Steals | E-Cigarette Forum (go to last couple pages)
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Good luck in your decisions.
The Kanger Subtank Mini comes with a factory 1.5 ohm coil (12 to 20 watts to vape it) a .5 factory coil (up to 30 watts to vape it), and a build deck where you can make your own coils (cheap in the long run). You can buy the 1.5 and .5 coils, they will last from a week to two weeks each.
The Kanger Subbox kit is nice if the only tank you're going to use is a Kanger made one. It has a fixed 510 pin (the pin that makes contact with the bottom of the tank to pass electricity). In my opinion this is a weekness of the Subbox. The MVP has a spring loaded 510 pin , and easily adjusts to different makes of tanks.
With the Subbox you'll need 18650 size batteries and an separate battery charger is highly recommended. The MVP is an internal battery, no extra charger needed.
There are literally 100's of mods (the battery part) available to use to vape.
DEALS and STEALS - Deals and Steals | E-Cigarette Forum (go to last couple pages)
FORUM SUPPLIERS - ECF Forum Suppliers | E-Cigarette Forum
COUPONS - Stores - ECF E-Cigarette Coupons
Good luck in your decisions.
I had an MVP2 for a few months. As long as you're okay with the size of it compared to the size of it, the MVP series is a good way to go. Battery should last a long time, and Innokin makes a quality product.
However, I would discourage you from getting the MVP2. That mod suffered from a serious design flaw in that the firing pin was a bit shallow, and it's not spring loaded. As a new vaper, you might try different tanks, and the pin on the tanks will push the pin down to different depths.
The only way to fix it is to get a screwdriver and pry it up constantly. It's a known problem, and a lot of people had issues with it.
The MVP3 has more battery capacity, goes higher in wattage (these sub ohm tanks need between 20-30 watts sometimes), and has the important spring loaded pin that adjusts according to the tank you're using.
So I would highly recommend you get that for a few bucks more. Another thing I didn't like about the MVP2 was the button placement, as well as how hard you had to press it to make it fire. My thumb actually got sore after a week of using it, and I had to switch hands for a couple of weeks to let it recover.
So that's the MVP2 in a nutshell. Mine sits in my drawer now that I have three iSticks. I like the form factor of the iSticks better. Similar battery life to he MVP2, simple to use, spring loaded 510, and better button placement. You can get the new iStick 40w for $27.75 shipped at Rocky Mountain Vapor.
However, I would discourage you from getting the MVP2. That mod suffered from a serious design flaw in that the firing pin was a bit shallow, and it's not spring loaded. As a new vaper, you might try different tanks, and the pin on the tanks will push the pin down to different depths.
The only way to fix it is to get a screwdriver and pry it up constantly. It's a known problem, and a lot of people had issues with it.
The MVP3 has more battery capacity, goes higher in wattage (these sub ohm tanks need between 20-30 watts sometimes), and has the important spring loaded pin that adjusts according to the tank you're using.
So I would highly recommend you get that for a few bucks more. Another thing I didn't like about the MVP2 was the button placement, as well as how hard you had to press it to make it fire. My thumb actually got sore after a week of using it, and I had to switch hands for a couple of weeks to let it recover.
So that's the MVP2 in a nutshell. Mine sits in my drawer now that I have three iSticks. I like the form factor of the iSticks better. Similar battery life to he MVP2, simple to use, spring loaded 510, and better button placement. You can get the new iStick 40w for $27.75 shipped at Rocky Mountain Vapor.
i have looked at the iSticks a little bit... do those produce a good amount of "clouds"?
I started out with mini protanks. I still use one of them daily, but I use a kayfun rebuildable tank atomizer (RTA) now.
It saves me money on coils because I rebuild them, and I'm a tootle puffer that prefers good flavor over big clouds. I think a tight draw is important for people that are coming off analogs. The sub ohm tanks these days don't really provide that. I have a Kanger subtank too, but the flavor isn't as good as my kayfun, so I don't really use it much, but am experimenting with it now.
If you want a tighter, cigarette-like draw I think you should stick with the Kanger Aerotanks and Aspire Nautilus mini. The protanks are discontinued now, but aerotanks have similar draw with a base that prevents juice dripping onto the firing pin, unlike the ego threaded protank. I use my protank with an aerotank base.
I have a couple of buddies that have gone straight for the subtanks and have been okay with them, so maybe that could work for you as well. But if I had to start with a subtank, I dunno if I would have been able to make the switch.
Didn't see that you had asked another question. The iSticks just produce the power, just like all other mods do. Some are a lil fancier and smoother, but in the end it's just power.
The amount of clouds you get depends more on your tank (airflow holes), wattage, and the amount of VG in your e-juice. The big clouds come from sub-ohming, which the MVP2 can't do. I think it only reads down to 1.2 ohms and goes up to 15 watts?
From the sounds of it, you probably should go with a subtank. I actually got an iStick/Subtank combo kit as a gift for a friend. The subtank typically vapes between 15 and 22 watts I think depending on the person.
Kanger makes the Subox kit that comes with the Subtank and Kanger's battery. It's a good value, but their battery doesn't have a spring-loaded 510, which is a no go for me after all the problems I had with the MVP.
After the 25% off coupon code at Rocky Mountain Vapor you can get an iStick and a Subtank v2 for about $60 shipped.
P.S. Rocky Mountain Vapor also has the MVP3 for $33.75 shipped. It's not the pro version with the bigger battery and the higher wattage, but it's a 30w mod with the same form factor as the MVP2 you wanted, and probably about the same price.
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For some great information on a whole bunch of topics for those new to vaping, check out @Baditude's blog. When you're more comfortable with amps, ohms, watts, etc., take a look at these when choosing a battery...
There are no 18650 batteries with a genuine rating over 30A! | E-Cigarette Forum
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