Rem Mod / SMPL (clone ?) Hot button.

[shadco]

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I've read a little on Hot Button issues with SMPL mods it's unclear to me if they were authenitcs or not.

Here's my experience


I picked up a rem mod which seems to be an evolution of the SMPL mod.

See vapor lairs site ==> https://thevaporlair.com

This was Saturday morning, day before yesterday from an authentics only B&M.

I loved the simplicity combined with a Cartel Cascata RDA.

I used it Saturday afternoon with a fresh VTC4, I popped in a fresh VTC4 in before I packed it in for the evening.

Got up Sunday morning and picked up the mod, yikes really hot button and a lousy vape to boot.

I swapped in a 25R and everything seemed fine, so I vaped on, Early afternoon I swapped in a fresh 25R and immediately noticed the hot button again and a lousy vape to boot so I pulled the battery and started to examine the battery and mod.

I found little black specs welded to the bottom of that 25R, and I looked at the VTC4 that gave me problems in the AM, Same deal there.

Those black specs were material from the outer circumference of the contact in the switch that were deposited on the battery.

I have included a picture of the switch where you can see pits where the material that was welded to my batteries is gone from the switch.

The atty is fine and runs well on my Praxis and Fallout with not issues the center post extends just the right amount beyond the connector.

This bothers the heck out of me, if you are experiencing hot button with this mod I would like to know if you are seeing the same thing on your switch.

If it seems I'm doing something wrong here I would like to know.





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[Bad Ninja]

Those black specks are carbon buildup from arcing.
I'd clean the switch and make sure ya making a solid contact with the battery.

 

[shadco]

Those black specs are not carbon buildup.

The are holes, pits, craters where the material the contact is made of has been transferred to the bottom of my batteries.

I can and have cleaned the transferred material from the bottom of the batteries,

This is a brand new mod and fortunately my Dealer is going to refund.


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[Bad Ninja]

Those black specs are not carbon buildup.

The are holes, pits, craters where the material the contact is made of has been transferred to the bottom of my batteries.

I can and have cleaned the transferred material from the bottom of the batteries,

This is a brand new mod and fortunately my Dealer is going to refund.


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Yes.
However this happened when arcing occurred. The black residue is carbon from the arc.
I repair mods for 3 vape shops.
This is a common issue, and not the first time I've encountered this.
Usually cleaning the contacts will prevent this from happening.
You can gently sand out the pits and if the contact is clean and solid, it won't happen again.

 

[duc916]

That switch is rhodium plated? Would be a bummer to have to sand through that.

 

[TorontoOntario]

I dont know man I just wanted to say sorry for your luck. I would be so disheartened if I spent upwards of $150 on a mod and it didnt work flawlessly. This is why I will only buy clone mech mods. It may seem stupid because your more likely to have an issue with clones but I really dont care about a $20-$50 clone not working. I mean, it sucks dont get me wrong but I dont loose sleep over it haha. My wife bought an authentic Praxis and it had some issues. She ended up getting a new one but she was literally in tears over it.

 

[duc916]

When you get your replacement mod, if/when you start to get the first sign of a hot button, I would stop firing it and try putting a light coat of Ox-Gard right there where it makes contact with the battery.

I'm guessing, but I think the rhodium plating (if that's what your switch has) may be causing the problem because of the slightly higher resistance of that material. Maybe it's not plated evenly?

My first SMPL clone is going on 4 months with a brass button that has had NO maintenance aside from the initial cleaning/polishing and coating with Ox-Gard, and it still performs like it was brand new.

 

[shadco]

So I just got back from the B&M, they got in a load of buttons today equal to the number of mods they had ordered. They gave me a choice, your money back, or try the new switch and if the problem re occurs then I could get a refund.

Try that with clones.

So far so good with the new switch.

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[Bad Ninja]

So I just got back from the B&M, they got in a load of buttons today equal to the number of mods they had ordered. They gave me a choice, your money back, or try the new switch and if the problem re occurs then I could get a refund.

Try that with clones.

So far so good with the new switch.

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My $17 clones didn't have the problem your $120 authentic did.
Try that with an authentic.


Jk
Sorry man, just had to do it because you took a jab at the clones.

 

[duc916]

They gave me a choice, your money back, or try the new switch and if the problem re occurs then I could get a refund.

How much is the button? I may try one for the heck of it, if it's priced right.... Is it still 20x1?

 

[Thrasher]

Should a bought a poldiac anyways, lol


On sale too

 

[duc916]

I just remembered that REM button is too thick for an original SMPL.

Anyway, the fact that they sell buttons separately isn't a good sign that the plating is performing as intended.

 

[vapero]

I just remembered that REM button is too thick for an original SMPL.

Anyway, the fact that they sell buttons separately isn't a good sign that the plating is performing as intended.

agree, there seems to be a production error on the coating and I bet that there are much more complains to come

 

[shadco]

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i don't know about selling they handed me the replacement.


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[duc916]

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i don't know about selling they handed me the replacement.

And with that, it sounds even more bleak than I first thought.

 

[shadco]

And with that, it sounds even more bleak than I first thought.

Yeah I know it sucks when a brick and mortar stands behind the authentics they sell.

What's your problem?


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[Icer]

I don't think he was talking about your B&M , I think he was refering to the maker of the mod . Just my $.02

 

[duc916]

Yeah I know it sucks when a brick and mortar stands behind the authentics they sell.

What's your problem?

No problem here. I'm merely making the observation that if they've actually got a bunch of replacement buttons on hand to give away to anyone who bought one, the implication is that the early version wasn't ready for prime time. Anyone who bought an early version may find it useful to know this if they suddenly find themselves arcing all their batteries to hell and may find my musings helpful, even if you don't.

 

[Froth]

Going on over six months with my two first run SMPL's from thevaporlair with the older non-concave brass contact(the good one apparently...). I constantly run at 0.12 ohms and I have never once had hot button or any button issues in any way with mine, I just keep it clean and it keeps on hitting perfectly. This isn't the first complaint I've seen about the newer buttons having issues either.

Personally it seems like when the companies split in half to make their own respective versions of the mod the quality split in half too...which is sad.

 

[Buck20]

I have had nothing but good luck with the new concave buttons. They seem to make better contact. Keeping them clean is a must though. (that includes wiping clean the bottom of the battery also.
As far as separate buttons for sale, Epic and Vaporlair had 350 & 500 tubes for sale. That's what the spare buttons are for. Smpl still sells the 350 tubes and spare buttons also.