I love the size of this mod so much and the TI 3 pin regulator rocks this 5 Volt mod very sweet.
There are many ways to do this 5 Volt mod. This is how I made mine to accommodate the 14500 batteries that seem to come in 2 sizes?
And I need to add a thank you to sassyblondeinwa for being the fantastic forum member she is here on ECF supplying these boxes at the great price she did for us.
Compared to a normal Nico-stick 2 x AA box mod.
Here is a picture of the completed 5 Volt Duracell my pocket Charger gone mod. Uses a TI 5V 3A regulator and has 2 14500 batteries with a horn button switch.
Now lets get into making one
Here you can see how I pop the device apart. Use news paper to wrap it in several layers thick. Done correctly this will leave no marks and has worked on at least 3 I`ve popped apart so far.
In this step you will see where I trim the box so the batteries will fit better with less possible damage when you install them. You will also see the LED that can be removed from the board it comes with if you want a Green LED.
In this picture you will see how I get my battery contacts out of a old remote. Plus these can be bought nice and cheap at like the Dollar Tree and such.
In this picture you will see that I used a small piece of wood for mounting the battery springs on. I drilled small holes to stick the leg post in and have them flat against the board on the opposite side with the two wires I need for them attached as well. You will need to cut a small grove in the top or bottom for the slide door tab to stick through as well. So place it in the box to see where.
Ok got ahead of myself here so disregard the Battery spring board in this picture. Here you will see the two holes that need drilled for the battery/atty connector and the Horn Switch. I drill the holes smaller then the item it`s for and work the hole with a knife or a Dremel tool to get the spacing better adjusted.
I use a 5/16 drill bit I think. There is a square on the inside of the box that has a small hole on one end of it. If you place the bit in the square that still remains and drill the hole it will wipe the small hole out and be centered as well. This is where I actually put the atty/battery connector on mine. Makes the lanyard a better idea there.
In this picture we will install the battery spring board. Youmay need to cut down your springs and pull out on the other. Just be sure to curl the end if you cut it so as it won`t damage a battery. You need to fit everything back together to get a rough idea on it`s placement for your battery size. I think in the two groves left this a tad tight for the longer style 14500`s but perfect for the smaller size.
You will need to be sure it has the lid stub latch cut and that the top will in fact be able to sit on the device completely shut . Once you do that apply JB weld along all the edges touching the box on this half only. You can apply some over the springs and wires on the backside of the board now as well. Just give it a good check once this is done to be sure the springs do in fact line up with the batter post correctly.
Let this harden over night perhaps. You want the back side battery springs covered over with JB weld but you also want it thin so they must be flat against the board. You will need the space believe me. The JB weld will act as a short circuit protector.
In this picture you will see I placed the switch in and the already wired battery/atty connector just sitting in the holes. This is to look at the space I have to play in. Not much actually but enough.
You can also see I have a black rubber thin sheet to help protect against shorts. Not a must but if it fits between the regulator and battery springs I use it there and the regulator and switch post as well.
This diagram will give you an idea on what I do to the regulator legs for the next step on wiring.
Now with this being such a tight area I have to more or less let you go here on your own with this wire diagram.
You can bend twist and do what you have to to get the regulator legs better set for the space in there so don`t solder anything till you get a good idea on it`s placement.
You can attach wires to the switch then install it through the hole then attach one side of the switch to the battery positive wire the other post on the switch will attache to the top post on the regulator this is like my last step on the regulator along with the resister coming off the LED positive leg I attach to the regulator here as well with that wire...
Just watch to be sure nothing gets smashed against something it shouldn`t be touching.
Now you should do a check point to be sure nothing is wrong.
Once you have it working you can now apply JB weld to the device. Let it get in around the switch and battery/atty connector and regulator between anything. Just don`t let it get on the LED lens or run over where the Lid stub needs to slide in by the wood slot for it. This step is a do it right or toast this mod move. So take your time. Place it with the other half together and hold it there with rubber bands. Check that it has the battery/atty straight with using a atomizer and that the horn switch is flat to the surface.
When you set this to let it harden over night set it so the LED is facing up but at a good slant to the top so it wont run over the slot for the Lid.
If it all went well it should be a good functioning 5 Volt so you can do this if desired.
Hope anyone deciding to do this well. And if you have any trouble post it here or use the PM. I will help as I can.
There are many ways to do this 5 Volt mod. This is how I made mine to accommodate the 14500 batteries that seem to come in 2 sizes?
And I need to add a thank you to sassyblondeinwa for being the fantastic forum member she is here on ECF supplying these boxes at the great price she did for us.
Compared to a normal Nico-stick 2 x AA box mod.
Here is a picture of the completed 5 Volt Duracell my pocket Charger gone mod. Uses a TI 5V 3A regulator and has 2 14500 batteries with a horn button switch.
Now lets get into making one
Here you can see how I pop the device apart. Use news paper to wrap it in several layers thick. Done correctly this will leave no marks and has worked on at least 3 I`ve popped apart so far.
In this step you will see where I trim the box so the batteries will fit better with less possible damage when you install them. You will also see the LED that can be removed from the board it comes with if you want a Green LED.
In this picture you will see how I get my battery contacts out of a old remote. Plus these can be bought nice and cheap at like the Dollar Tree and such.
In this picture you will see that I used a small piece of wood for mounting the battery springs on. I drilled small holes to stick the leg post in and have them flat against the board on the opposite side with the two wires I need for them attached as well. You will need to cut a small grove in the top or bottom for the slide door tab to stick through as well. So place it in the box to see where.
Ok got ahead of myself here so disregard the Battery spring board in this picture. Here you will see the two holes that need drilled for the battery/atty connector and the Horn Switch. I drill the holes smaller then the item it`s for and work the hole with a knife or a Dremel tool to get the spacing better adjusted.
I use a 5/16 drill bit I think. There is a square on the inside of the box that has a small hole on one end of it. If you place the bit in the square that still remains and drill the hole it will wipe the small hole out and be centered as well. This is where I actually put the atty/battery connector on mine. Makes the lanyard a better idea there.
In this picture we will install the battery spring board. Youmay need to cut down your springs and pull out on the other. Just be sure to curl the end if you cut it so as it won`t damage a battery. You need to fit everything back together to get a rough idea on it`s placement for your battery size. I think in the two groves left this a tad tight for the longer style 14500`s but perfect for the smaller size.
You will need to be sure it has the lid stub latch cut and that the top will in fact be able to sit on the device completely shut . Once you do that apply JB weld along all the edges touching the box on this half only. You can apply some over the springs and wires on the backside of the board now as well. Just give it a good check once this is done to be sure the springs do in fact line up with the batter post correctly.
Let this harden over night perhaps. You want the back side battery springs covered over with JB weld but you also want it thin so they must be flat against the board. You will need the space believe me. The JB weld will act as a short circuit protector.
In this picture you will see I placed the switch in and the already wired battery/atty connector just sitting in the holes. This is to look at the space I have to play in. Not much actually but enough.
You can also see I have a black rubber thin sheet to help protect against shorts. Not a must but if it fits between the regulator and battery springs I use it there and the regulator and switch post as well.
This diagram will give you an idea on what I do to the regulator legs for the next step on wiring.
Now with this being such a tight area I have to more or less let you go here on your own with this wire diagram.
You can bend twist and do what you have to to get the regulator legs better set for the space in there so don`t solder anything till you get a good idea on it`s placement.
You can attach wires to the switch then install it through the hole then attach one side of the switch to the battery positive wire the other post on the switch will attache to the top post on the regulator this is like my last step on the regulator along with the resister coming off the LED positive leg I attach to the regulator here as well with that wire...
Just watch to be sure nothing gets smashed against something it shouldn`t be touching.
Now you should do a check point to be sure nothing is wrong.
Once you have it working you can now apply JB weld to the device. Let it get in around the switch and battery/atty connector and regulator between anything. Just don`t let it get on the LED lens or run over where the Lid stub needs to slide in by the wood slot for it. This step is a do it right or toast this mod move. So take your time. Place it with the other half together and hold it there with rubber bands. Check that it has the battery/atty straight with using a atomizer and that the horn switch is flat to the surface.
When you set this to let it harden over night set it so the LED is facing up but at a good slant to the top so it wont run over the slot for the Lid.
If it all went well it should be a good functioning 5 Volt so you can do this if desired.
Hope anyone deciding to do this well. And if you have any trouble post it here or use the PM. I will help as I can.
