Watts, Volts, and RDA Coil builds....

[Meresya]

Hello all,

Sorry for the semi cryptic title, but hey, had to call it something...

I have had a Trident for over a year. I recently got a Plume Veil. I have watched a ton of YouTube, and wrapped a ton of coils. Still...

I put a 1.8 Ohm 28g dual coil build on my Trident using a Provari V2. One coil died after the first hit. I put a 0.8 Ohm 28g dual coil buld on my Plume using a ZNA. One coil died after one hit. I had a long time builder at the local vape shop put a dual coil on my Trident and one coil died after one day. All coil deaths are shorted out since overall coil ohms doubled after death - ie only single coil firing.

I am at a loss as to why it is currently happening, although I admit to confusion on watts versus voltage. The ZNA is new, so now I see Watts, at least on this. The Provari and the Tesla I always run at 3.8 volts (for the plethora of tanks in my possession). Most of the times, at least lately I am using a tank since the extremely bad stint on dual coil builds. Now, a single coil build on the Trident went perfectly, without any technical difficulties whatsoever. Both RDA's are brand new. The Trident is the 2nd version (I have the original as well, but wasn't using it - one negative post has the hole pointed sideways, so is more annoying than trying to hit the properly aligned holes on V2).

Any suggestions? Was 3.8 volts too high? The coils on the Plume was only being fired at 20 watts.

 

[Jjshbetz11]

Imo, your shorting out the coil either on the deck or cap. Build some single coil setups. Then another utilizing the other neg. post to rule out the post being the problem. The trident v2 post holes are close to the deck height wise. Might be grounding a coil out making it pop.

 

[Jjshbetz11]

Also, my trident v2 was a pain to do duals on because of the slit design in the posts. What helped alot was sleeper build. Meaning making two coils out of one continuous wire.

 

[Meresya]

Figured out the Plume short - Top piece where the mouth piece goes wasn't screwed to the top cylinder. One RDA down, one to go.

 

[Meresya]

Also, my trident v2 was a pain to do duals on because of the slit design in the posts. What helped alot was sleeper build. Meaning making two coils out of one continuous wire.

Making a sleeper coil, or a parallel coil is a little too much for now.

On a side note, does anyone know which ring, the top or bottom rubber ring that you can remove from the Trident in order to make it easier to take the top off? This would be beneficial - tired of fighting with the top.

 

[Meresya]

I figured out the problem wiring up the Trident. I was supposed to do 6/5 wraps for a dual coil. Using 34g, the coil would unwind, giving me only 3/4 wraps. The wire thickness is so small I could not see it was happening for several coil builds. I got it to work just fine using 28g, but want to see about getting some 29 or 30 gauge instead.

 

[HecticEnergy]

Glad you got it sorted. If a coil is shorting you would read low resistance or short on a regulated mod. If you're resistance doubled that means one coil is not making a complete connection, usually this means you tightened down your screws too much and clipped the lead or one of your screws backed off and the wire is no longer captured in the post.
If the resistance seems right, but one coil is not heating as fast as the other it could be an issue of the coils not matching in resistance, or you may just need to pinch or strum the coils a bit more.


Sent from my iPhone 6 using Tapatalk

 

[HecticEnergy]

Imo wire thinner than 28 ga is incredibly hard to work with.. It's thinner and moves around a lot more when wrapping and setting the coil. The also are easier to clip when screwing them into the posts on your rda. Doesn't hurt to play with it though!


Sent from my iPhone 6 using Tapatalk

 

[Nuchuga]

Looks like theres some sort of short either on the posts or the deck! Make sure the coils are touching opposite posts!