Well, that was disappointing

[zero7starz]

So Monday after work I got the ProVari I ordered, along with then AGA-T RBA and a V-Core clearomizer tank in the mail.
Monday I sorta got it to work. Tuesday I spent most of the day researching what to do, how to set it up, you know the right way to do everything.
Then last night, it just didn't work. Fiddled with it for a while, then just sat it down to catch some sleep. This morning I sit down to figure it out to fix it. After some research and investigating I find a short in the head of the v-core tank. So I tried to fix it.

And I managed to accidentally pull apart the entire head of the v-core tank. I will have to order a replacement. Not a huge deal, but
It's totally ruined all my excitement of getting the ProVari. My bf is also now feeling rather hesitant from moving away from his v2 cig alike. Which is also disappointing.

Now I'm feeling rather worried and hoping that all the issues are actually due to the short in the head and not an issue on the ProVari. We had a time with it trying to figure out what was wrong before I found the short. E1 errors, and even an E8 a couple times. I know there are a few errors where the manual just basically says contact ProVape you got problems. I don't wanna have to do that, mostly because I don't want it to scare my bf totally off the idea. I know they would fix it, if one existed, but still...

It was very strange. When I tried to get the atomizer rating from the ProVari menu, it never showed me a number. Sometimes it would be LO, and sometimes it would say OP. Tried with several variations of screwed on tightness, and depending on how tight it would give me one or the other, or just plain E1.

When it was working on Monday I had to keep the power set very low to not get E1. The V-core is supposed to be rated at 2.8 ohms, which according to the chart should be SR and safe to vape from 3.2 to 4.8, but anything above 3.5 would give me a E1 or taste like burnt juice. 4 is the ProVari default and I got it above 3.7 and had any vapor at all.

Guess I should of gotten 2 or something =\

The only thing I can do now is wait for my package from ValleyViewVapes which is supposed to be showing up today, and maybe order some replacement heads for the V-core. Hopefully I'll have better luck with a carto tank and I'll actually get an experience out of my ProVari, or it'll be my luck that I will have ended up with a defective device in which case I will be feeling rather crushed.

 

[jasl90]

I've had every possible error on my ProVari... I'm still not sure how it decides which one to display. I've seen it go from E1 to E2 to E4 to E8... without changing a thing.
Odds are the ProVari is fine. Just get a good working atomizer on it so you can use it while you figure out the AGA-T.

 

[eratikmind]

I trust you get this all sorted out is short time. Let us know what the final outcome is.

 

[zero7starz]

I trust you get this all sorted out is short time. Let us know what the final outcome is.

It pulls a reading off the Carto, so I'm guessing the ProVari is fine.

Must have really not liked the V-Core. I still like the design of it though.

But alas, my tank is leaking around the edges of the Carto, and it's drained about 1.5ml of liquid all over the place. I don't even think there is anything I can do about that one.

I was fully anticipating Carto tank drama, but I wasn't expecting my backup plan to have already died.

Alright. Would someone please offer some advice on a failsafe option I could pick up just to get a bit of satisfaction out of the ProVari while I re-group and try again.
If such a thing even exists.

 

[Izan]

double check the Ω of everything with your multimeter BEFORE putting it on the Provari. The AGA-t with silica @ 2.5Ω should make your world right again.

good luck
Have fun

I

 

[EvilOne]

I use a carto tank. Tank from 505vapor.com and cartos from ikenvape.com
No issues.

 

[CountSmackula]

It pulls a reading off the Carto, so I'm guessing the ProVari is fine.

Must have really not liked the V-Core. I still like the design of it though.

But alas, my tank is leaking around the edges of the Carto, and it's drained about 1.5ml of liquid all over the place. I don't even think there is anything I can do about that one.

I was fully anticipating Carto tank drama, but I wasn't expecting my backup plan to have already died.

Alright. Would someone please offer some advice on a failsafe option I could pick up just to get a bit of satisfaction out of the ProVari while I re-group and try again.
If such a thing even exists.

Is the carto overly 'dimpled'? Did you try sliding the carto further in? Did you nick the o-ring installing it? Did you try flipping the tank end-for end to see if it was a damaged o-ring?
Just tossing these out there for ya.

 

[redgypsy]

I use V-cores every day on a Provari and and I love them. However, I've occasionally gotten E1 errors or it doesn't fire and it's usually because all the components are not tightly screwed together ... it typically occurs after I've filled/refilled the bottom section. I rebuild the coils on these as well and have had no problems with shorts. I used to have a leaking problem with one, but discovered it was simply a missing o-ring.

 

[dsy5]

The Provari is heavily protected and was just doing it job keeping you safe from a DEFECTIVE V-core.

 

[jajashi]

The Provari is heavily protected and was just doing it job keeping you safe from a DEFECTIVE V-core.

Agreed. The Provari throws an error instead of shorting. That's already great

 

[zero7starz]

double check the Ω of everything with your multimeter BEFORE putting it on the Provari. The AGA-t with silica @ 2.5Ω should make your world right again.

good luck
Have fun

I

Having some issues there as well.

The first time I set it all up, got a decent reading from the multimeter, then when I put it on the ProVari and navigated to the AO reader, it burnt my wick in two. LOL. Quick moment of "Oh sweet it works AHH oh crap it's burning!"

Haven't gotten quite that close again. Most of the time what happens now is the multimeter will get a ohms reading on it, but I get E1 on the ProVari. Not sure what's going on. My bf is working on it now. Even he seems to be getting E1 no matter what.

Is the carto overly 'dimpled'? Did you try sliding the carto further in? Did you nick the o-ring installing it? Did you try flipping the tank end-for end to see if it was a damaged o-ring?
Just tossing these out there for ya.

I appreciate that. I've spent most of today fiddling with the AGA, but I will try those hints.

I use V-cores every day on a Provari and and I love them. However, I've occasionally gotten E1 errors or it doesn't fire and it's usually because all the components are not tightly screwed together ... it typically occurs after I've filled/refilled the bottom section. I rebuild the coils on these as well and have had no problems with shorts. I used to have a leaking problem with one, but discovered it was simply a missing o-ring.

Wow I wish I would have thought to try tightening it. Replacement heads in the mail, well try it again.

The Provari is heavily protected and was just doing it job keeping you safe from a DEFECTIVE V-core.

I don't blame the ProVari. Although I thought it had a problem at first. I think it's fine though.

 

[Thrasher]

the provari is working as intended. it is making sure you dont burn the house down.

op is open - low is a short. under resistance coil.

the aga is going to trigger the protection as long as the wick is shorted somewhere.

the coil burning means something wasnt correct with the wraps, i use this feature all the time and never seen the check pop a coil.

now the provari also has an amp limit you may be hitting make sure when you put the aga on the PV the resistance is not too low and the voltage is not too high. if the combination hits 15 watts or 3.5 amps again the safety will trigger. also if the coil is loos or not stable it will mess up the prov as well, meaning testing it on the table in front of you may be one reading but as soon as voltage is applied and something flexes, stretches or moves it may be dropping resistance.

i would suggest building the aga to about 2 ohms and check it 3-4 times on the provari, then start around 3.2 v and slowly go up. if it fires dry burn it and get the coils even and check it again. a genesis should not be run first time at full voltage it should always be started lower and brought up slowly, giving the coil and resistance a chance to adjust.

 

[OLDER71]

I've never had an issue with either of My Provaris using Vision Vi Vi Novas I am collecting materials to try RBA's with both SS mesh and silica wicks. I plan on trying both Kanthal and Nichrome wire in various gauges. Wish Me well

 

[Absintheur]

I would get a carto tank to start off with your ProVari...start simple then work your way into the RBAs, it's nice to have a working set-up while you fiddle.

Dual Coil 510 Tank - 5ml

 

[zero7starz]

I've never had an issue with either of My Provaris using Vision Vi Vi Novas I am collecting materials to try RBA's with both SS mesh and silica wicks. I plan on trying both Kanthal and Nichrome wire in various gauges. Wish Me well

RBAs are a beautiful system. I would suggest ordering way more supplies than you think you'll need because we went through almost all my wire in one night trying to figure it out. And I wouldn't try Nichrome if you already ordered it. I straight up think that's my issue, and now I'm waiting on Kanthal to show up.
I would YouTube for some good wicking styles there's a lot of ways you could make them. I've also found that if you can find a screw that fits in the full hole you can use it to make some nicely coiled coils, then just unscrew the screw!
I'm just kind of annoyed because I can't do anything else until this order comes in and it hasn't even shipped yet

Check out a dripping atomizer.

I would get a carto tank to start off with your ProVari...start simple then work your way into the RBAs, it's nice to have a working set-up while you fiddle.

Dual Coil 510 Tank - 5ml

I ordered a Carto tank and had a ton of issues immediately. Haven't had a chance to revisit it, as I was given some helpful tips last night. I am not a fan of the filling methods of Carto tanks to be honest.

 

[skoot]

Check for fluid on the ProVari 510 connector, where the carto screws onto it. I get random errors sometimes if there is a drop of liquid in there.

 

[yoitzo]

I've only used carto tanks, vivi novas and kangers so i can't be of much use on the RBA end ^^;;.
But as for cartos, try using a tank tool to fill it. Valleyview has one for 4 bucks and it's a life/juice saver. No fuss, no leaky juices. They also have a fill pin for 7 bucks. I was talking to a random vaper I bumped into and he told me about this one and said it's his best friend. ^_^

 

[TattooedSkin]

I use a zap on my provari and it works flawless, however, I put my buddies zau on my provari and it worked for a about a half of a second then froze. I had to remove the battery and place it back in to reset my provari. im not worried about the incident, but i am perplexed about it.

 

[eratikmind]

You might consider revisiting the cartotank. I am having great success with it for a wonderful experience.

 

[forg1vn]

do you have any vapor delivery system with a 510 connection to try on it in the meantime? maybe try going to a B&M local to you if you don't want to wait on order delivery. or if you seek help from a local vaper?

I use a ZAP, AGA-T2 and carto tanks on the provari and no real issues unless i wrap my coil resistance too low, however when i do wrap a 0.8ohm coil i still use the provari to check resistance from the AO menu.

This is from the Provari user manual:

• E1 – Short Circuit / Shorted Atomizer – If this error appears, remove the atomizer and replace with a different one
or lower your voltage settings. The ProVari will automatically reset when the problem is fixed.
• E2 – Current Limit Exceeded – If this error appears, lower the voltage on the device or use a higher resistance
atomizer. Once the problem has been fixed, the ProVari will reset itself.
• E3 – Thermal Monitor – If this error appears, let the device cool off for several minutes before using again.
• E4 – Input Voltage to DC/DC converter error - Contact ProVape.
• E5 – Converter has a problem - Contact ProVape.
• E6 - Microprocessor has a problem – Contact ProVape.
• E7 – Voltage output detected when there should be none – This can be caused by a converter fault or by an open
atomizer. Only contact ProVape if you know the atomizer is good and the problem persists.
• E8 – Converter has detected a fault – Contact ProVape is this persists.