Which battery do I get for mechanical mods?

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proverbs

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May 10, 2013
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Hey guys, I'm about to pull the trigger on 2 of the sigelei mods. It will be my first mech mods, so I'm still a NEWB. I know that it is telescopic, but I will probably have it in 'stealth' mode when I take it out.

The battery sizes are confusing me. There's the itty bitty 18350 and the regular sized 18650. I'm guessing the stealth mode, it will take the 18650 and if I wanted more power I 'stack' the batteries? Maybe I can use the kick with the 18350 battery in stealth?

Sorry if these questions sound stupid..... but TIA!
 

Ryedan

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Hey guys, I'm about to pull the trigger on 2 of the Sigelei mods. It will be my first mech mods, so I'm still a NEWB. I know that it is telescopic, but I will probably have it in 'stealth' mode when I take it out.

The battery sizes are confusing me. There's the itty bitty 18350 and the regular sized 18650. I'm guessing the stealth mode, it will take the 18650 and if I wanted more power I 'stack' the batteries? Maybe I can use the kick with the 18350 battery in stealth?

Sorry if these questions sound stupid..... but TIA!

Ya, the link from RawnGermy will explain why stacking batts in a mechanical is not a good idea.

What are you going to put on it for juice delivery? An RBA or something else?
 

Bill's Magic Vapor

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I use the better IMR batts, often with fuse or kick. AW's, Pannies, MNKE's. Never stack. Batteries are very important in a mech as you don't have many of the protetions that you have in the regulated devices. If you are unsure, because you haven't done your homework, you have no business using a mech. Battery safety is everything in a mech, followed a distant second by the understanding of Ohm's law and targeting your resistance. Please do some more reading. These type of questions put the fear of God in us.
 

tj99959

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    You use the 18650 battery when you want a BIG mod, and one 18350 battery when you want a stealth mod.

    Basically batteries come in increments of 15mm in length. (35mm, 50mm, and 65mm)
    If you want to use the kick you would want to use an 18490/500 battery which would end up being the same length as using a 18650.

    These type of questions put the fear of God in us.

    ^^ what he said, we don't want to see anyone hurt themselves.
     
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    Racehorse

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    Glad to see some of the old timers keep stressing safety.

    Lately been reading way too many newbie posts where people are leaving batts on chargers all night, stacking batts, etc.

    Not a good way to start out, and tempting fate.

    Up front, a good battery charger, not a cheapo, and some good AW batts are gonna set you back about $10-20 and $2-3 more than the crappy ones........it's a once a year (or longer) purchase, just buy the good stuff already and start out right!

    IF you can't start off right, then stick with ego type batts and starter kits until you can afford to buy what you need to vape safely.
     
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    Baditude

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    The following quotes are from PBusardo's Taste Your Juice website concerning replaceable batteries:
    ________________________________________

    "Difference in batteries:

    In the electronic cigarette “mod” world there are two main types of batteries. ICR and IMR.

    ICR = LiCoO2 (typical Li-ion) [Protected batteries fall in this class, but understand there are unprotected ICR batteries, too - Baditude]

    IMR = LiMn [also called high drain and safe chemistry; also called unprotected when distinguishing between ICR batteries. - Baditude]

    It is generally accepted that IMR batteries use a safer chemistry than ICRs which is why ICRs can be purchased with and without protection circuits.
    IMRs can support higher discharge rates (high drain) than ICRs and are a better choice for lower resistance coils and mechanical devices.
    Although some ICRs have increased storage capacity (mAh), they may not always be able to deliver the amps required to power your device. For example, this is why ProVape recommends IMR type batteries.
    So if you want to be safe, what should you do? Here are some suggestions…

    First, use any electronic cigarette or device AT YOUR OWN RISK!
    Label/date your batteries so you know how long they’ve been in-use. If they’re still going after a year, toss them unless you have the ability to check their status.
    Buy your batteries from reputable venders. I’ve been taken by the inflated mAh ratings seen on some “Ebay Offerings”. There are many good battery vendors out there. I get many of mine from RTD Vapor.
    If you are using a protected device you should be ok with any battery selection. If not, use a safer chemistry IMR or “hybrid” and/or a mod fuse such as the 2 Cents For Safety fuse.
    Get a QUALITY intelligent charger. The Xtars or Intellichargers both good choices.
    Do no over discharge your battery. When you’re battery approaches 3.3 volts, it’s time to charge.
    Do not carry loose batteries. Batteries thrown in a purse or pocket could find metal and short. For example… keys! Exposed batteries have the potential to short when not properly protected.
    "
    ____________________________________

    Before purchasing batteries, understand which type of battery that you need, and pay particular attention to the vendor's product description of that battery chemistry type to ensure you are getting the battery that you want.

    If you require protected batteries, make certain the product description says "protected". If your regulated device requires high drain IMR, make certain the battery's product description says so.

    Some other good resources concerning batteries and mod safety:

    Mechanical Mod Proper Usage Guide

    http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/battery-issues/254690-protected-batteries-vs-imr-safety-5.html

    E- | Cigs | Mods | Batteries | Safety | Vaping | Vape | Safe | TheVapeSafe.com
     
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