timshead;12136098 said:
Tim, the point is if you wind with tension they do not unwind. The tension is like that in a torsion screen door spring. If your coil unwrapped (except for your starting turn) when you released tension you did not reach the point of natural adhesion. Not enough tension was applied. The coil will at best underperform. Properly tensioned you can forego annealing and do so on your mod as you pulse the batt and compress the coil lightly to clear any hotspots, usually none. That more uniformly anneals the wire than manually torching it. It takes a bit of practice to get the muscle memory right, a few times usually. To find the sweet spot where the wires won't get any closer, but any separate either. Then you will save a great deal of time and the hazards like minute high turns or open turns you can't really see…that will mess you up bro. Just because they seem to touch doesn't mean they do until you have adhesion. The fact that they don't is one of the main reasons the microcoils may contribute even more gurgling and flooding than a loose hand wind. They can increase the efficiency of power delivery but if it's uneven for such reasons as I mentioned you end up with a lot of unvaporized juice. So, huh!, for the microcoil. But it's got to be done right. And when it is, you'll get the video result.
Once you achieve uniform adhesion physics dictates that you will see the maximum and uniform distribution of energy across the coil. That's the best that such a wrap could possibly do given the laws of nature. And it's doable. Fact is I've watched many people actually do it without realizing that they were achieving it.
I'd say relax and don't push the work. Observe. It'll start talkin' at ya showing you what needs to be done. Once the body mechanics start getting recorded for the repetitive motions, the tensions needed here and there and the delicate moves it will seem like second nature. You'll have dozens strewn in your drawer and everywhere waiting to be recycled…someday. But you'll only want to do more. Because you can, in minutes. Funny thing.
In your case I would suggest trying 30AWG. It will give you something more substantial to work with and even more capable of wind memory. The thinner gauges are more fickle because the vaporization itself is really quite violent at that size and 32 gauge is thin. The energy stored in the wire preserving its shape can be easily overcome. So 32 AWG will not be as durable, or re-wickable as the thicker.
Now about the hot legs thing. Reinserting the mandrel, drill bit, whatever shouldn't even ever happen. The method I've been explaining on the Protank MicroCoil Discussion!! thread and others is a tension wind. That coil stays in a tensioned state until it is terminated. Period. Then, the bit is withdrawn and the intact perfected coil, pulsed and threaded.
Not much point in making a coil perfect and then to put it through gyrations each one of which can and will distort it. You just won't see it. The method I've described is simple, takes far fewer steps and has a predictable repeatable result. Less fiddle, more vapor.
If some believe they can improve on the physical limits of mass proximity by adding process, who am I to say no. I ain't lyin'. Just reporting the facts. The physics are incontrovertible. But we once believed the world was flat too. We all gotta find our own way.
Now can I promise you a perfect build? Hell no Tim. I make mistakes all the time. And skew and misalign and introduce distorted turns. The huge difference is now I don't give a fudge. I didn't work 20 minutes to create a perfect coil. I drop a nickels worth of wire on the screwdriver and do a good one. Next! Just sayin' Tim.
It's not rocket science, true. Just good science.
Good luck Tim. I know you'll be able to do it. I did and I'm a spaz.
