There are no problems with the AGA-T, only opportunities to hone your skills. Part 2

Part 2
Note: If at any point your resistance drops and does not allow your APV to fire due to low Ωs, move the coils up or down a little, concentrating on what looks like the tightest ones first and test fire to see if you have solved the problem. Sometimes merely spinning the wick a little in place takes care of it. Make sure you allow the wick to cool before grabbing it!

Note: (This can be performed earlier also )You may slide your wick out to test what your true coil Ω is and compare it to what you get when you slide your wick back in. They should be identical when everything is right. This is also a good method to see if your coil wants to lean over towards the center post. If it does, loosen the nut and straighten it back up. You want your coil to be vertical while relaxed and not have any force pulling on it which causes shorts.

Bump voltage to 3.2v and repeat process.
Bump voltage to 3.4v and repeat process.
Bump voltage to 3.6v and repeat process.
Bump voltage to 3.8v and repeat process.
Bump voltage to 4.0v and repeat process.

You are now ready to fill tank with juice.

Check for wicking issues:
Fill with juice, replace your fill screw and put a drop or two of juice on the wick if desired.
With the cap still off, fire your PV and verify that vapor is produced and your coils DO NOT glow as they did when there was no juice. This is normal and required for a good vape. The juice keeps the coils cool enough to not glow (which would cause the flavor to be bad. No I mean it, really bad and un-enjoyable)

VAPE: After firing it a few times to ensure that you do not have a wicking issue, replace cap and enjoy awesome flavor and wicking from the start.

NOTE: (Assuming you don't have a wicking issue) If at any time after your AGA-T is set up properly and vaping good, it starts to taste bad, a hot spot has likely re-appeared. You may not be able to see it due to liquid cooling.
Drain your tank with a syringe (save and re-use) or tilt PV with wick side up ()trickier but I have done it successfully a few times), dry burn off juice from wick and work out the hot spot that I 99% guarantee will be there.

Refill and vape on.

Understanding your enemy:
The reason a hot spot is your enemy. When you have a hot spot, all of the heat is super-concentrated in one spot instead of being spread out over a large area. Your juice is burning at the hot spot and not heating much at all over the rest of the coil. This can be happening even if you do not see the top coil glowing (see liquid cooling effect). If you do not fully address hot spots, and learn to recognize through taste when they have returned, you will be stuck vaping at a capacity that is much less than your AGA-T is capable of. If it doesn't taste really good (assuming that your juice should taste really good), then there is a problem, don't put up with it or think that is just the way it is. Fix it.

This process may seem overwhelming and too involved. The warning you see on websites that sell RBA's should make sense now. It takes getting your hands dirty and messing with it. The main reason for the warning is that without some proper guidance, a person can think that their RBA is a lemon and they are unsatisfied and want a refund. The AGA-T is an excellent RBA. That being said, I know complete un-mechanically and un-technically minded people find quick success with a little instruction and hands on practice.

I hope this helps more of you become proficient and comfortable with your AGA-T or other RBA .

eHuman

Comments

Thanks for the written instructions my friend, I now think I'm ready to try the aga t+ out. Pretty damn stoked to try it actually :)
 
Theoretical enlightenment achieved. Now time for the practicum..

I have a T+, an S, an A8 and am waiting on a terminator C. I have only achieved success with the S and only for a short period. I am determined to put down my novas or reserve them for travel. This is indeed time consuming but given the glimpses of nirvana from my S, it is well worth mastering.

At first I blamed the juice. Then I blamed the wick. Then I blamed the wire. Then I looked at myself, which lead me here. Now the path is clear.

Thank you!
 
You, Sir, makes sense! Watched lots of videos on this, but most of them seem to forget how *not* to do it.

There might be hope for me finishing this evening with a wicked and coiled Aga T2. Very much appreciated.
 
This tutorial fills in a lot of the gaps that others didn't go into sufficient detail to cover. Thank You for a well written, easy to understand tute.
 
great stuff man. but it really is a battle with these things, and the thing i hate most is that even when you do get it right, a couple of bumps later and the hotspots are back (and now there's juice in the tank!).

sometimes i just wanna chuck it out the window....
 
Great guide. Got me closer than I have gotten before (still not there, yet!). Thanks.
 
Excellent tutorial! I came here after Phil Busardo's videos on the AGA and my picture is now complete.

Enjoying the best vape I have experienced since starting more than 2 years ago...
 
How can this guy say there is no problem with the AGA-T when the standard T has a threaded top cap with an air hole that doesn't line up with the wick?
 
eehtpc;bt7711 said:
How can this guy say there is no problem with the AGA-T when the standard T has a threaded top cap with an air hole that doesn't line up with the wick?
Because I don't own a version 1 threaded cap and if I did, I'd fix it so the air hole lined up properly. Didn't you hear? There are no problems with the aga-t, just opportunities to hone your skills.
 
I too have to thank you for the time and effort you put into this. A couple of days ago I got my first Aga T2 and rolled my first ss mesh wick. Not nearly tight enough, still looked like a straw, but the flavor and vapor were outstanding! I tried to put the fill screw back in but got that nasty metallic taste after a couple of hits and quickly pulled it out. Needless to say, the tank ended on it's side and leaked all over the table. I got my hands on some mesh and will try for the solid wick tonight. Thanks once again!
 
@eHuman
Thanks for great info. I was struggling with the unoxidized, pulsing method, but was always getting hotspots. Tonight I will give this method of yours a bash.

One thing though, what is the diameter of your completed wick? Is it exactly the same as the hole, or just a tad smaller? Better still, what is the exact diameter in inches?

Thanks
 
SunRam;bt7874 said:
@eHuman
Thanks for great info. I was struggling with the unoxidized, pulsing method, but was always getting hotspots. Tonight I will give this method of yours a bash.

One thing though, what is the diameter of your completed wick? Is it exactly the same as the hole, or just a tad smaller? Better still, what is the exact diameter in inches?

Thanks
Since the wick hole size varies from revision to revision, the key is to roll it small enough to slide in easily but stay where your leave it. You should not have to force it in, and it should not free fall into the tank.
 
Thanks eHuman,
Simply put, this has to be the most informative writeup for getting started with the AGA-T I have found. I've had mine for about a week and haven't had the feeling I was ready to give it a go yet. Well, that's all changed now. Going to give it a go right now and thanks for my new bookmark, I'm sure I'll use it for a while to come.
 
not only for the AGA-T but a great beginners guide..thank you
I only wish i found this sooner.. :D
 
Now, I feel like I'm ready to give this a shot. I've watched/read so much on this subject, but this makes it all come together. Thanks!
 
Thanks for this step by step. Very encouraging. I do have an issue however; I have done all that you write here and wind up with a hot leg at the top to the pos post. I'm using an FC-2000 ceramic wick, so I'm definitely not bending it (it would break if I tried). I'm thinking it has something to do with the distance from the post to the wick, vs. the much shorter distance from the wick to the negative post?
 
KTark;bt7917 said:
Thanks for this step by step. Very encouraging. I do have an issue however; I have done all that you write here and wind up with a hot leg at the top to the pos post. I'm using an FC-2000 ceramic wick, so I'm definitely not bending it (it would break if I tried). I'm thinking it has something to do with the distance from the post to the wick, vs. the much shorter distance from the wick to the negative post?
I understand the fix for that issue with FC-2000 is "the hot wrap". I haven't used ceramic. Search it out there is a lot of success reported.
 
Another thanks to you sir! Got much farther with your tutorial, getting close to nirvana, and totally applicable to my RSST too.
 
Thank you so much for these written instructions. It explains quite a bit more than I was seeing in the videos. Now my AGA-T2 is actually performing almost as good as my dripper. All thanks to your suggestion of troubleshooting while the tank is full and troubleshooting during vapor production. Worked like a champ an hits quite nicely!
 

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