The Vaper's Handbook

If you thought the Vaper's Handbook was informative before I am about to turn this thing up to 11. By continuing to read the following post you must agree to read the following disclaimer first and in full.

DISCLAIMER: I am not a professional electrician, or engineer. I am a non-trained civilian layman in these matters and the only reason I am posting this reference guide is because out of sheer desperation/total emergency I was forced to try and repair a broken KGO of mine and I though it might be interesting for you to track my progress, or as a professional to reference the inner workings of the KGO (for which there is little information available). I have not as yet completed this operation successfully as I currently lack the tools to do so. This is all theory. These are my ideas, and my VERY limited experience in this matter, put to writing. This question will be updated over time so please don't judge it too harshly. This is a VERY complicated operation which I am about to explain so it will take several edits to get just right. This is for reference only and DO NOT try this at home unless you are a professional. I do not claim 100% accuracy in my information. I am not responsible for further damage to your PV or loss of property, life or all of the above. IF YOU TRY ANY OF THIS, YOU DO SO AT YOUR OWN RISK. I highly recommend that you refer to question 22 on the first page of this blog (about 40% of the way down) and also Basic to Advanced Battery Information from Battery University and familiarize yourself with lithium ion batteries in the extreme before you even THINK about going past Step 2 of this guide unless you are a professional and you have a proper training in the handling of lithium ion batteries.

Special thanks goes to ECF user gimmieshelter31.

Q40: My (NON-VARIABLE VOLTAGE) standard EGO style battery's button lights up but now it won't vape. When I put it on a charger it indicates that it's fully charged, but I know it's not. Can you tell me how to fix a broken EGO style battery?
A40: This problem indicates that the central, postively charged post in your battery's juice well is not connected. This can mean one of two things. Either the battery post is not making connection with your atomizer because it has been pushed down by an ill fitting connection, or that the positive wire to the post itself is not connected any more.

Before we even begin let me point out that if under any circumstances you injure your lithium ion battery that is housed within the casing with physical damage and then attempt to charge it there is a very real chance it will vent/explode/cause a fire. Don't do that. If you accidentally damage it, it's game over. Salvage what parts you can (connector, wires, PCB, Button) and store them in a self place and dispose of the battery in the proper way. I know that Lowe's takes batteries of this caliber for free at the customer service desk. If you attempt to charge a damaged battery, it's on you. I take no responsibility and I reiterate that, if you do anything this guide says, you do so at your own risk. I would recommend that if you ignore this advice and decide to charge it anyway that you will take my advice and at least charge it in a Li-Po battery charging bag inside a metal box and far away from combustible materials.

This is a reference guide for NON-VARIABLE VOLTAGE (Twist) devices. The twist will have more complicated circuitry inside and a potentiometer on the bottom and this reference will not address them. If you find useful information on that please PM me with the links and I will add them to this.

Step 1:
The first thing you should do is try multiple atomizers. If you still can't make a connection then go to step 2.

Step 2:
Take a small screwdriver and, working your way around, pry the post up a little bit. DO NOT pull it all the way out or you will have an incredibly hard time putting it back in and/or make your problem much worse if you break the wire that connects to the positive post of the battery via the circuit board (which in the KGO is VERY short and easy to do). This process is referred to frequently as "pulling the post". You will note that there is a gasket around the bottom of the post to prevent ejuice from leaking inside and you will want to take great care not to damage it. That gasket also can be the source of the problem because it creates play in the center post and allows it to be moved out of an effective position. When you go to clean your juice well (with a toothpick or paper clip) do be careful when sliding around the post because you can end up twisting it and breaking your wire's connection. If Step 2, after several attempts, did not solve the problem it's time to move on to Step 3.

If you have gotten this far without reading the disclaimer at the beginning of this post please do so now. Attempting anything in this guide is done so AT YOUR OWN RISK. I am not a professional by any stretch of the imagination and I refuse to be held accountable or liable for any mishap that may occur as a result of attempting anything in this guide.

Step 3: If none of the above steps have worked. The problem is most likely that the positive wire has been severed to your center post. This is not good.
What you need to do now is to take your battery apart and repair that connection. For this task you will need wire strippers, a set of pliers, soldering iron, flux and solder, some wire (which you can salvage from old electronics such as a computer mouse) and possibly a torx screwdriver or awl (almost any size will work as long as it's not really small in diameter).

I am not going to teach you how to solder, you can watch videos on youtube of how to do that if you need some tips (and you should before you go into this task blind).

Your first move is going to be to get your battery apart. The best way to do this is with an old stardust (EGO Vision) clearomizer because it screws into your EGO cone threads and if those get harmed for any reason it's not going to ruin the functionality of your battery with all of the other atomizers on the market (plus, Stardusts aren't that great). You can also you pliers to do it as well but there will be no chance that you are getting it apart without scratching it. Plus you will be taking a chance that you can bend the 510 connection and ruin the battery forever. I can't help you with the pliers aspect but I will describe what needs to be done anyway.

Take the Stardust and screw it on all the way. Now firmly rock the clearomizer back and forth while pulling away and with no small effort you will begin to see the ridges of the battery case become exposed under your button. Once you've got it out a little bit, BE CAREFUL and work slowly and gently to get it all the way out. You do not want to rip the wires out when you get it all the way off. Once you have it apart you will see the wires I am talking about. All EGO type batteries have minor variations but this same principle will apply. Depending on your model the ground wire will either be to the bottom cap or to the metal of your EGO connection. For now lets leave the battery in the case and not pull it out.

Click the following image to be redirected to ImageShack where you can see a zoomed in close up of this picture by clicking on the image on that site. The inside of a KGO looks like this:


Note that I am not sure if what I pointed to was the ground or the negative connection. I am not a professional electrician or engineer. What I labeled as the negative connection is probably just the connection from the battery to the PCB and what I labeled as negative is the negative connection to the EGO connection to complete the circuit for your atomizer. If that is true then the KGO has no ground.

Also I will be adding more pictures soon.

I would also like you to take a look at this video before we continue, and also watch several of the other related videos on EGO repair that can be found in the right hand margin of this video. I am not going to do a direct link because then you won't get the related videos without an extra step anyway.

Ego-t Battery Repair - YouTube

(continued in the next post)

damn, this is a very comprehensive overview of e-cigs. just one thing you are missing: how to store e-juices & to refrigerate or not refrigerate e-juices?

Thanks for the comment/compliment Money4me247. Thanks for the question too.

Q40 - EGO Style Battery Repair reference guide - continued from above

The wires will lead to PCB (Printed Circuit Board which henceforth will be referred to as the PCB) and they should be black and red. Take a flashlight and look inside the EGO connection part of your PV. If your PCB is glued in you're going to have a problem getting it out. Now remove the button cover. If it's rubber like mine was it will come right out. If it's plastic I am sorry, but I can only guess that if you can't figure it out you may have to push it in all the way and slide it down and out. To get a glued PCB out is a bit of a nightmare and it's going to take the difficulty up quite a bit. What you'll need to do is to pry the center post completely out of the battery's juice well with a screwdriver. Be careful and do not lose this part!. If the post is still connected to a wire then I recommend that you'll have to replace that wire from the PCB to the center post (the wire was blue in the KGO). If it's not connected you'll have to re-solder it back on. But I digress. Now that you have a hole from the top you need to take either a torx (star shaped) bit awl or a torx bit screwdriver and put out the pcb from the top. The star shaped bit of a torx driver will help push against the side of the board and shouldn't damage it in the process. This is a risky maneuver however and I cannot take responsibility if you damage the PCB. Be very careful not to slide off the side of the PCB with your driver and damage the board. This problem can be prevented by using as large of a diameter torx driver as you can fit in the center post hole. Once you hear the crunch your PCB is home free. Gently work it out of the connection casing.

At this point press the button. If it lights up then you know that you didn't hurt any of the wires to the PCB getting it apart.

Now that everything is out you will need to either replace the wire if it was still connected to the battery center post, or you will simply have to re-solder it back on. If you don't have enough wire you may want to just replace the wire with a similar gauge wire (preferably not in a red or black color either). Make sure you strip the end of the wire with wire strippers obviously as well, if required.

Once you have reconnected it, you should be able to test it with an atomizer (preferably one that makes a noise like a nice crispy cartomizer) and test fire it. If it works, then you have succeeded and you can reverse this process and put everything back together. Before you even THINK about charging this battery and using it again I demand that you charge this battery from now on in a Li-Po Battery Charging Bag and inside a metal box (like an index card or filing box). Because you have tinkered with things there is a very real chance that you could have damaged the voltage overcharge protection circuit and that can lead to battery failure in the extreme while charging it. Batteries are really only dangerous when you charge them (unless you are stacking them which never recommended and not applicable to this guide since EGO type batteries are solitary and never stacked).

If your EGO still doesn't work then consider replacing the entire positive post wire. If that doesn't work follow the video I posted above and you'll have to take the battery out and resolder the wire at the bottom (in certain models, usually the true Joyetech EGOs). If THAT doesn't work the chances of getting this battery working again are very low. It probably means the PCB has failed and there is nothing you can do about it but replace it by salvaging one from another dead battery (you're totally on your own there). Remember that you have a limited time (probably measured in months depending on the current charge of the battery) to do this because the Lithium Ion Battery self discharges over time. Not to mention it may well not be worth the effort.


Q41: What is the best way to store my ejuice? Is it ok to refrigerate it?
A41: I wouldn't and I don't. If you refrigerate your juice certain flavors can crystallize and that's never good for a tasty vape. It's not worth taking the chance on that happening or not. The other problem with refrigeration is the fact that water condenses and there is concern that in the air space left in a bottle. If that happens the bacteria (which is found in all the air on earth - the bottle was not filled in a vacuum) could grow and ruin your juice. I have heard stories of people losing hundreds of dollars in juice by refrigerating it. If you want to store your liquid long term then the best bet is to freeze it. Even though PG does not freeze the bacterial activity is non-existent in your freezer at those temperatures. No one knows how long the shelf life for frozen ejuice, but your best bet is to put it in glass and triple bag it in the freezer if you decide to go this route.

Otherwise, and the best option in my opinion (as it is what I do), store it in a cool dry place. Juice is good for about a year. Use it and enjoy it while it lasts. Some people will say two years and that's cool, but all of the flavorless nicotine solution I have ever purchased comes with an expiration date of 1 year, and that's a solution of 100% PG. If it were 100% VG I cannot speak for that but I imagine there is a chance it could be higher considering the shelf like of VG is over 4.5 years. The shelf like for PG is two years. I've had commercial handmade juice get nasty in just a couple of months. Some of these vendors are making their own juice some are having it made for them in labs. You can usually tell the difference in the price (which you can reference the Chart-O-Juice link on the previous page near the bottom to see a list of juice prices by vendor). The problem with long term storage is, if you have to store it for that long, there is a good chance that you didn't need to purchase it in the first place. I prefer non-steeped, fresh juice, but I use a high PG ratio. I could understand steeping more with a high VG ratio.

Further reading:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/ask-veterans/134237-bottle-help-freezing-nic-juice.html#post2126610

Lastly, I should point out that, before one goes to the extreme of freezing their juice, there is a PIF (Pay It Forward) forum that you can use right here on ECF where people frequently trade juices they don't like or give them away (for free) to those in need.

Here's the rules for PIF if you are interested in perusing them. Familiarize yourself with them before you even decide to join the PIF Group:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/pay-forward-pif/131160-pif-rules-updated-clarified-all-things-sticky.html

And here's the rules for swaps:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/pay-forward-pif/261040-pif-swaps-do-not-post-unless-you-have-read-rules.html

You can find Pay It Forward here:
Pay It Forward - PIF

Note that under no circumstances is any money to ever exchange hands on the ECF outside of the Classifieds (which you must be a verified member to participate in). They also keep full track of your history and sales record (kind of like Ebay) in the Classifieds (there are stats in your profile) and also in PIF (info on people is kept in threads) so that people will know a good/bad trader when they see them. That's the difference between PIF and Classifieds.

Q42: Can you review some of the more popular APV/Tube Mods on the market for us?
A42: I cannot. I do not own any of these devices at this time but I can give you my assessment to the best of my abilities.

The EGO C Twist is a very inexpensive option. If you polled all the variable voltage vapers on ECF you'd find that the vast majority of them vape just above 4v. The EGO C Twist has a variable voltage range of 3.2v-4.8v . It will serve most vapers very very well. If you don't own one yet I would start here. I strongly believe that every vaper should have an EGO C Twist in their arsenal. That is why I recommend it at the beginning of this blog.

The KGO VV: I would avoid the passthrough option that is the KGO VV. I have seen too many horror stories of them venting/igniting while being left plugged in and unattended. IMO passthrough batteries are pretty fail because every second you plug them in and the battery is fully charged you are challenging the overcharge protection circuit and begging to damage your property. I don't know the amperage specs on the KGO VV but I highly doubt it will have what it takes to push high voltage (6v) at low resistance. Stick with a Twist in that case. If you are a reckless throat hit chaser there are better/more effective (though more expensive) options.

The Lavatube 1.0 (2.5 amp device) is not a flawless device, but it's $55 (for the tube mod only) right now (at the time of this posting) due to the fact that Volcano is releasing its Lavatube 2.0 (3 amp device) and clearing stock of the 1.0 to make room for it. There some things that suck about them though that you should know about before you buy one. They are often incorrect about the voltage you set them at versus what you actually get. They also lower the voltage (without indicating it) as a safety precaution without telling you on certain combinations of low resistance atomizers and high voltage (due to lack of amperage). This may or may not bother you. There is also a lack of proven reliability.

The Apollo V-Tube is another option. It is a 6v variable voltage device set to compete with the Lavatube 1.0. (2.5 amps, same as the Lavatube 1.0). There used to be coupons floating around the forum here to make it quite affordable. People who have them have reported that they are generally pleased with them.

The Vector by VaporBeast is a good APV as well. Has all the functions of a Lavatube but I believe it's 4amps which is nice. Plus it's shiny. $69 - $75 (depending on color) out the door with 2 18650s and a charger. Blows away even the Lavatube 1.0 with its big sale right now. Free Shipping.

The VMAX Ultra by Vaporbeast is also a good APV, it has 5+amps and all your standard APV functions. The LED screen is bigger than most and it looks AWESOME.. $89 out the door with 2 batteries and a charger. Free shipping. The only problem with this APV is that it's not in stock at the moment.

The Vario (by VaporBeast) release date (as of this posting) has been pushed back for 2 months while they deal with issues that arose from the review models, but that may turn out to be a good option too (it will be a 5 amp device by far the highest so far). It will also not require an adapter to use with all the currently available atomizers on the market. With the kind of amps it pushes it will not limit you with low resistance multi-coil atomizers (as low as 1.2ohms) at high voltage. According to Ohm's Law they won't be worth vaping at full voltage at the lowest resistance it could handle (1.2 ohm) especially on a single coil it would be 30 watts OUCH - we're talking a direct line into the underworld - true volcano stuff. At 6v on a 1.2 ohm dual coil cartomizer you would get a shocking 15 watts per coil at 5 amps which is probably too hot. If you put a triple coil cartomizer at 6v, 5amps then that could be a really awesome vape at 10 watts per coil. Time will tell if this device will play a major role in this market yet but I am personally excited to watch the action unfold. If these issues aren't dealt with then the Vario will never be released. The owner of VaporBeast, Tim Campbell, refuses to release the Vario unless it is exactly to the specs on his website and working well. This is definitely not the "need it now" option.

The Provari is very very expensive. They are often pointed to by fanboys that they have a reduced price of $160, but a quick run through the numbers on their site will reveal that you aren't getting out the door with the perfect APV (18650 batteries x2, battery cap for 18650, decent color, 1 year warranty) for anywhere near that. If you have the money, the only thing you can go wrong with on the Provari is the price, the fact that they require an adapter to fit certain clearomizers (like the stardust for a crappy example - this is an extra cost/possible appearance issue), and they lack the amperage to push low resistance multi-coil atomizers at high voltage (it's a 3.5 amp device) like some of the newer Tube Mod APV's that are being released.

Q43: If a product gets a good review from a "celebrity reviewer" should I buy it?
A43: Of course the choices that you make with your money are your own. I encourage you to go with the flow and do what the majority of us are doing (as it is proven to work). Almost none of the everyday people that you run into on ECF are paid to give you a review.

I just want to point out that I have a theory that there is a sinister factor at play here that may sway certain popular reviewers to give reviews that show PVs in a positive light. It should be known that most vaper "celebrity reviewers" get the vast majority of their products for free in exchange for a review (read: free advertisement). There is absolutely 0 chance that either of these guys will give you a 100% accurate review on the drawbacks of these units they review because of the way the game works.

It goes something like this: Company X wants money. Sales are slacking, maybe they are new to the market, maybe they are just greedy and want to take a bigger chunk of the market share. For whatever reason (money/greed is the real reason) they send a review unit to one of the aforementioned "Celebrity Reviewers" who I will henceforth refer to as the "CR". The cost of this unit is far less than retail price even after shipping (see also: cheap advertisement). (This next line is pure speculation at its finest and in no way proven) The CR receives the unit and is happy that he/she has fueled his/her obsessive/compulsive addiction and need to feel important to collecting PVs that they really don't need. They "review" these PVs and gain fame for doing so. They feel good inside. This reinforces their addiction. Google Ad-Sense gives them some kickbacks in the form of ad money for increasing their views (and thus views of their ads on YouTube). They get paid. Company X sees their sales increase for a time until the cycle repeats itself. Both Company X and the CR come out ahead and money is made for all involved with little to no investment/financial commitment from either side. Neither is there a commitment to repeat the cycle itself with this particular combination of Company or CR if things don't work as planned (usually the CR will get the better end of this stick). This only shows you that in any given situation the CR stands to gain the most as it is nearly impossible for them to lose.

When you are watching these videos/reading these reviews, please keep this in mind. When you watch them please do so only to see the PV in action and think with an open mind. Don't be clouded by the judgement of another who is paid to think a certain way. Stick to the facts; solid numbers such as voltage, mah, things of this nature. These are irrefutable.

It's really no different than mainstream media vs. internet news. We have seen a rapid decline in those channels and the rise of internet news sources (such as Huffington Post) as more people begin to realize that these "news" companies have a real vested interest in spreading disinformation to benefit companies and political views. Without getting too far into details you can see proof of this in action as "news" companies spread harmful and patently false disinformation about ecigs to benefit tobacco companies.

Disclaimer: Don't worry I am not now, or ever, going to get into politics unless they concern vaping. Friends should never talk about politics or religion. When friends fight nobody wins.

If you want to test my theory look at the information that is given to you in the video you are watching, or listen closely to things like "Company X sent this over". Oftentimes these CRs will attempt to convince you that they are somehow unbiased with such statements to get you to listen to them as if they were being 100% honest (since they admit their flaw). Know this: real people say things like "I bought this for X amount of dollars from Company X". An example of someone who does this is Estarra on YouTube aka RockinRobbieSF here on ECF.

His channel is here:
Vaping Estarra - YouTube

Q44: I like the outdoors, but sometimes I am away from electricity for days at a time. What device can I use to keep vaping under these conditions?
A44: Well, my friends, the answer to your "off-the-grid" problems are finally here. Whether you are a nature lover or you find your smartphone, PV, or any other device that is recharged via USB dies too much in the urban jungle the answer to your problems is here. Introducing the Cylapex Personal Vaporizer and Charging Station. Not only can you charge any device you may have with its USB cord (iphone), you can charge any (A)PV you might have. Not only that, it's a basic APV all by itself and it has the same formfactor as a smartphone. This is the ultimate "Zombie Apocalypse" APV for you survivalists out there . The battery is quoted as having 6000-8000 mah, and it can charge an Iphone 4-5 times. It has a 510 connection and also is a variable voltage APV with voltage ranging from 3.2, 4.0, and 4.8 volts. Comes in Black or White and has a shiny mirror finish (good for doing your makeup or signaling rescue helicopters).

LOL. Just to clear that whole thing up, the advertisement style of this post was a joke. I try to give fair answers to the best of my ability. I am in no way whatsoever affiliated to any vendor (have your people call my people though ). My motives are my own. It's not my fault if I happen to like Vaporbeast a lot. Tell them to stop raising the bar!

The device looks pretty dang cool though. I am a big camper so it appeals to me. I thought you'd like to check it out too, just to see what's out there in the world of vape, if nothing else. I can tell you that the first run of this product completely sold out so it's definitely hot right now. I can tell you nothing about its performance or reliability (what's up with the wide range of mah on the battery?), but this is definitely a fringe device to look out for.

http://www.vaporbeast.com/Cylapex_p/sk29.htm

P.S. I am on fire right now. I wrote everything you see up to this point on this page tonight (something like 30,000 characters). It was a good day.

Q45: Does vaping cause you to gain weight?
A45: Simply, no. Getting into details it has been shown that nicotine increases adrenaline release, which increases the production of glucose in your liver, which produces a slightly hyperglycemic affect. This slightly higher blood sugar is the cause of appetite suppression that smokers and vapers both enjoy. Now if you get your nicotine down to 0mg or quit vaping then weight gain is something to look out for.

Further reading:
The Effects Of Nicotine On Blood Glucose Levels | LIVESTRONG.COM

Q46: How do I fill a cartomizer?
A46: A lot of people will tell you that the "condom method" is the best way. Not only is the name distasteful I disagree that it is the best way to get the job done. The best way, in my opinion, is to take either of the silicone caps (some refer to them as condoms, I will not) and place it over the metal battery connection end of the cartomizer after you fill it halfway up with juice.
This will prime liquid up into your cartomizer from the bottom.

Now, the "condom method" states that you should take the cap off and refill it and do this as many times as is necessary by continuing to push juice up through the bottom until the the cartomizer will no longer accept juice.

Instead, I suggest you leave the silicone cap in place once it is empty and continue to add juice from the top. The cap will prevent leaks out of the bottom. Keep adding juice until the cartomizer will accept no more, then grab it and shake it like a polaroid picture (hey ya!). The juice will go down. Add more and repeat this process til you are satisfied.

Now all you need to do is pull the cap off a little bit and blow any excess juice out of the air tube. Wipe your carto with a vaper towel (paper towel that all vapers should keep handy). Keep this cap around you're going to need it (but do keep it away from children and animals). Don't wash out the juice yet. Wait a few minutes to get a good soak and then proceed to vape the cartomizer. After several vapes you're going to need to top of the cartomizer again. Squeeze what remains of the juice out of the silicone cap into your cartomizer until the top it wet again.

Do not overfill. This will lead to gurgling. If your cartomizer is gurgling there is a very good chance that you have just flooded the juice well of your battery connection. If this happens there's also a good chance that you electrical connection of your positive center post is not conducting electricity very well and your vape will suffer (come to find out, ejuice is not a good conductor of electricity). You will need to keep your juice well clean.

Once you have saved all of the juice, except what you wiped off the cartomizer when the you took the silicone cap off, wash out your silicone cap and let it dry. Always save these because they do come in handy.

If you choose to use cartomizers and don't have a tank to put them in (with slotted or punched cartomizers) you will have to keep topping it off by adding more juice every so often. Be careful not to flood your cartomizers as it is a waste of juice (you'll just be wiping it out of your juice well) and it can affect cartomizer performance.

If you are going out with a cartomizer it's always wise to carry a small bottle of juice to refill it, or carry several cartomizers (in a vaper towel in my pocket, is what I do) so you don't run dry on the go.

Q47: Is buying online safe? I've heard a lot about people getting their credit cards stolen. What can I do to be sure I don't become a victim?
A47: Credit Card theft doesn't "just happen". The reason you're getting your credit card number stolen is most likely to do with your computer not being secure due to keyloggers on your system. Rarely it is the case that websites you are using, which encrypt all information, are the cause - use registered suppliers on ECF only for your own safety. This isn't 1998 any more, but shocklingly it does still happen. I am going to approach the Secure your PC option since that's what I do best.

A keylogger is a form of a virus that logs all inputs from your keyboard and then uses your computer's resources and internet connection to send them back to the person who created the program which infected you.

Another source of weakness, although far more rare due to the necessity of having proximity to your location is wireless network hacking.

To prove to you the above statements are true, I want to consider the fact that all credit card transactions ask for to verify the code on the back of your card. This is the same code you type in when you order online, so it's not an issue to a keylogger, which sees all, or via unsecured websites. The only other way it is possible to get this information is if you have dishonest people coming and going in your house that they could write the information down, or a crooked clerk at a store who takes down your information, but these are pretty rare and the people are almost certain to get caught. Less to fear our laws are the foreigners who invade your computer with viruses that call home and report your information to them. Credit card companies can't afford to go after them overseas so they are getting away with it. The problem escalates as a result.

So here's what you can do to prevent yourself from becoming the next victim on your end. Please note that these instructions are for Windows Vista/Windows 7 users only. If you have Windows XP feel free to PM me and I will guide you through that process instead. Mac? You're on your own. Call Apple. Linux? If you can figure out how to get your computer running 100% on that OS you don't need me.

Step 1:
If you have a wireless router (i.e. wifi in your house) make sure you set a WEP passkey on it if you do not have one already. You may know this as your network that you have to type to your wireless device in order to access the network. Some companies will set this for you.

If you don't know what you're doing, don't mess it up or you'll be sorry next time you go to get online wirelessly. I recommend that you use a long password that you can remember but impossible for someone to guess.

Step 2:
The next move, if you are using Internet Explorer get Mozilla Firefox or Google Chrome on your computer right away (Google "Download Firefox, or simply Google "Chrome" and they'll come right up) and make one of them your default browser . Once that's installed I highly recommend you get the Add-On called AdBlock Plus for both browser (use google to get it for chrome just do "Google AdBlock Plus" and install the extension through the Chrome Store (free). The vast majority of computer viruses were originally written for Internet Explorer. IE is not an innovator, they are stealing the improvements to their browser from Mozilla and Chrome. IE is so susceptible to attack that you can literally drive a bus through its gaps in security. It's also a good idea to delete the shortcuts you may have for Internet Explorer on your desktop, taskbar, or start menu so that other people who may use your computer don't inadvertently expose you to trouble.

Step 3:
If you suspect a keylogger is on your system, or want to do some preventative maintenance, use google and type "Download SuperAntiSpyware", install it, update and run a scan with that and remove whatever it finds from your computer. Then, when it's done, you should uninstall it. (control panel/programs/uninstall program)

Step 4:
Now I want you to google "Download Spyware Terminator" install, update and run a scan with that. Remove what's found and uninstall that.

Step 5:
After all that, if you don't have a reliable or permanent antivirus system on your computer google "Download AVG Free" and install that and run a scan. When you are done with all this (which will take you up to the better part of a day) you are 100% clean. Don't uninstall AVG when you're done, just to be clear. Also, if you have a low quality antivirus program that is expired or you are unhappy with do uninstall that before you install any other software of this nature.

Step 6:
Lastly, type "Windows Update" in your search bar of your start button and click that and make sure you have all the updates for your computer. Optional updates ARE optional, but in the vast majority of cases they are safe to install and will not wreck your computer.

Conclusion:
The reason you want to uninstall these programs after you use them (with the exception of AVG) is because they take up your computer's memory resources running in your system tray, while offering you little to no benefit for doing so. They are free programs and are not going anywhere so they are there to download, install, update, use them, and get rid of them whenever you have a problem. This allows you get the most out of your computer. You should do this at least once a year.

Special note:
If ever you are asked if you want to install additional 3rd party software (like with Adobe Flash for example offering you McAfee scans) ALWAYS DECLINE. READ YOUR CHECKBOXES. These are adware slipped into your computer begging you to buy them. In this day and age there is a free and effective option for every software a computer needs. Don't fall for the trap. The next thing you'll notice is there are 5 toolbars in your browser.

If you have any questions PM me, this is what I do for a living. In this field I AM a certified professional. (I'll put the bill on your tab. )

Further Reading (for alternative solutions not discussed here):
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/ecf-library/315431-online-shopping-101-basics-how-works-how-you-can-protect-yourself.html

ShogaNinja said:

Step 1:If you have a wireless router (i.e. wifi in your house) make sure you set a WEP passkey on it if you do not have one already.

Click to expand...

Just a point: WEP encryption is considered to be pretty weak and very very easy to compromise. WPA could also be put into that category, though to a lesser extent. WPA2 (TKIP/AES), if possible depending on your hardware, would be the best choice for wifi encryption currently.

That aside, love the handbook. Thanks for putting it together, it has answered a lot of questions for me.

Nice read, very complete.

Thanks for your info. I got many knowledge about e cigarette/.

Very informative!

China - The Land of Knockoffs, and what it means for the E-Cigarette Business:
I recently bought another eGo Twist after seeing the insides of many batteries and finding that many of them use the same parts, I decided to save a few bucks and get a knockoff. The voltage potentiometer knob on the bottom requires a rubber jar opener to twist it. Yes, my Twist basically does not twist.

I want to paint you all a picture of China, and the e-cig business in America so everyone can gain a better understanding of what it's like:
In May 2004 the Chinese company Ruyan (literally translates to "resembling smoking") introduced the modern e-cigarette to the Chinese market. The first international patent was issued in 2007. China isn't a dirty word. It shouldn't be a negative connotation, an insult, or anything like that. If not for China the modern ecigarette would not exist. We'd all be smoking and hating life.

I have a buddy from China and, from what I've gathered, apparently they spend their days knocking off name brands that sell well, and trying to outsell each other in that process. A brand name to them is a means to an end. They are all about outproducing and outselling, and they seemingly don't care about their name because they are doing it under a pseudonym - without repercussions. Forgery is apparently a point of national pride. They obviously have very different laws than we do.

Worst example of forgery from China:
Said friend bought a 50 pack of CD-Rs (blank recordable CDs) and they were fakes. They went to the trouble of copying the label on the brand name packaging, made a plastic spindle with 50 perfect replicas of blank CDs on it, and 0 of them worked - just to make a few extra bucks over making REAL CDs. Now that's a knockoff! This is the monster we are dealing with when it comes to China, the source of the vast majority of e-cigs. Caveat Emptor. "Let the buyer beware".

Now I ask that you not necessarily blame the vendor for any problems you might have with their products. You are free to change vendors at will, but every vendor that deals with China will eventually get burned by this fact.

The hard part for them is that they take a chance and order these items, sight unseen (which have a minimum # of items to purchase in most cases), wait weeks for them to be delivered by boat, and their money is tied up in this process for a long time (and often extra money is held reserve on their credit card in order to do a deal - it's complicated) and then they finally get the product only to get a significant amount of returns that they provide for your convenience.

They sell some, and some come back under warranty. They have to pay shipping to send them back to China (and wait weeks - further money is tied up again - shipping costs are paid out of pocket) give the customer a replacement (further lowering their stock and hastening their next deal with China) and then they learn their lesson. Well, maybe. No matter how many lessons are learned each new item they bring in is a chance that is taken. The ecig business is a very very unforgiving business. Most people don't realize what it is like dealing with China and that is why I paint this picture. The worst failure rate (within the warranty, that is (after the warranty is up people usually blame the vendor and no data is given on this outside of complaints on ECF, and the likes of which are not easily quantified or verified)) on a Chinese product I have ever witnessed is 13%. So imagine buying 300 of those and sending 39 back, and calming down 39 angry customers. Doesn't sound like a fun time, does it?

China does have patent laws in place, but it appears that they are largely unenforced (speculation on my part perhaps, but de facto evidence proves this to be the case, at least in my own mind).

You can read up on it here if you like:
Patent law of the People's Republic of China - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

So, in conclusion, I want you all to both respect the power that is China, and also realize the treacherous waters which all vendors who deal in their wares must navigate. China isn't necessarily a dirty word, but it is one that a person must endure with their guards up. After all, most e-cigs do come from China. Know it, love it, fear it...

Product Review: The Vision Eternity Rebuildable Atomizer:

Here's a review from my buddy Lord Davon of the Vision Eternity Rebuildable Atomizer.


The short version: the problem with this very awesome looking $30 rebuildable atomizer is that it doesn't perform as advertised (too much airflow, muted flavor even worse than a normal CE style atomizer, and it leaks) and it's very fragile. Not recommended.

Aphelion;bt6141 said:

Just a point: WEP encryption is considered to be pretty weak and very very easy to compromise. WPA could also be put into that category, though to a lesser extent. WPA2 (TKIP/AES), if possible depending on your hardware, would be the best choice for wifi encryption currently.

That aside, love the handbook. Thanks for putting it together, it has answered a lot of questions for me.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the comment, and you are very welcome. Like I said before, this is a gift and I am giving it to all vaperkind.

I want to be clear in my mission though, so please bear with me.
I never suggested that WEP was the most secure. I was suggesting that it was better than nothing, what many rookie networkers have, which is an unsecured network. I wanted to let people know that they may have their door unlocked as far as their wireless network was concerned.

The average person doesn't have the slightest clue on how to break through a WEP protected network which takes significant skill and hacker software. In the vast majority of cases it is more than sufficient to have a WEP, and compared to nothing, it's a vast improvement. The idea was that this guide would be accessible to even computer newbies, not to give them something so advanced that they wouldn't be able to understand it. Lastly, I want to point out that, without a protected network, even a beginner hacker could get your information by gaining access to your network. When you take the skill level up on the crime the number of perpetrators goes down.

So I hope that cleared things up for you on what I was trying to accomplish by saying what was said.

Q48: I use cartomizer tanks (like the J-tank etc...) a lot. Should I get a Slap Yo' Mama tool?
A48: I don't think one of these is really necessary. Usually cartomizers come in 5 packs. You can take another cartomizer and jam it down on top of the one that's in your tank and push it down that way. All you do it pull out the extra carto, add your juice (at an angle) and then use the extra cartomizer to push the one in the tank back up if you need to. The trick is in the aim and also to lubricate your top O-Ring to get the carto back up through it more easily. If you are ready to switch cartos, all you need do is take the new carto and push out the old one from the bottom with the new one. You won't lose any juice and your new carto is ready to go. Sure, this takes some aiming skills so you don't tear up your O-rings but you can do it! IMHO, the price of o-rings (try Home Depot, or Lowe's - take an O-ring with you) is cheap compared to one of these tools.

That said, if you MUST have one, for convenience (and money isn't an object to you), then I recommend this cheaper plastic alternative reviewed here by my buddy Estarra on YouTube (RockinRobbieSF here on ECF) which also does the trick:



Product Review: The Zmax
Here is a couple of videos from an amateur reviewer on the Zmax. At one time this APV was thought to be "The Provari Killer". After watching this video I am still undecided on whether or not that is the case. The reviewer cites the overburn as "about a second". I think that it's closer to .5 seconds and this common among some e-cigs (namely of the KGO variety). The price on this tube mod is a bit on the extreme side as of this time (around $120 a mere $40 less than the Provari and this is BEFORE batteries and charger), and I'd like to see the price be a bit lower. The glorious part of this tube mod APV is that it's a Variable Wattage device. Previously this type of mod was only available for the $200-250+ range (either in the form of a Darwin which has issues of its own, or the Silver Bullet + Evolv Kick combo)

Take away from this review what you will. Whether you choose to buy one for yourself is entirely up to you. Me personally, I am still undecided. You won't find this info on many sites but it has a maximum output of 4amps (The Provari has 3.5 amps max, for comparison). Decent!

First Impression:
ZMAX From All about Vapor INC - YouTube

Final Thoughts:
Zmax Final Conclusion - YouTube

Q49: Can you explain Ohm's Law to me? How do the different factors of electricity apply to vaping?
A49: Electricity and you! This is a complicated question, but I will do my best. I am an IT professional, not an electrical engineer. This is how I understand it to be.

To make it easier to understand I will use an analogy of using a bow and arrow.

Voltage (aka Potential): Put simply, this is the potential energy. See it as how far you pull back a bow string. A device's voltage is its ability to to create potential energy for use. The harder it is pulled back, the more kinetic energy will be released when you let go of the string. See non variable voltage devices like a crossbow, since you can't vary the amount of potential energy (i.e. the crossbow always locks in at the same potential energy every time). This is one more variable you can't control if you have a non-variable voltage device and it will extremely limit your control over your vape. If you think of it like this the idea is to shoot the arrow; the bowstring is just a means to an end. The reason why voltage ended up being the main word to define the strength of a device is because variable wattage implies an advanced capability that most PVs do not have in the slightest (since APVs with variable wattage need complex circuits to calculate the ohm's law to set the voltage to the wattage you desire).

So we look at voltage as the vehicle to deliver our vape, but it's really wattage we are after (it's not how you get there, it's where you get). Every time you dial up the voltage on something, the harder you are pulling back the bowstring and the harder the arrow will hit in the end. The arrow is where the business end of your vapor happens. We will call that wattage.

Wattage (aka Power): Kinetic energy, this is how fast the arrow flies and how hard it hits. This translates to power, and thus heat, when it comes to vaping. The average vaper prefers a wattage range of 4-8watts, though 10-12+ is reckless throat hit range (and can be damaging to your atomizer and reduce its life). Less than 4 watts really just doesn't work. It's kind of like if you don't pull the bowstring back enough and the arrow just flops to the ground right in front of you.

Resistance (aka Conductivity): This basically comes down to the conductivity of your atomizers coil. Conductivity is how easily current passes through the wire from point A to point B. An easier way to look at it is to see this as friction. Everything you do in this world is related to friction. When you walk on the ground it is friction that allows you to gain purchase to push yourself forward. When you fire an arrow through the air, the air creates friction and slows your arrow down. If you shoot an arrow into water, it will slow it down much more. This example of air vs. water is a perfect example between low and high resistance. Resistance in electricity works in a similar way. The more resistance there is, the less power that will be allowed through the circuit in the form of wattage (as far as we are concerned here) which is what we are looking for. Typically speaking, high resistance then is better for high voltage applications, and vice versa. Putting a low resistance on a high voltage device will create a lot of heat and is in the realm of reckless throat hit chasing.

When it comes to vaping, this is a factor over which you will have the least control since it is set by your atomizer and there's no such thing as variable resistance at this time. These resistances are often set to common numbers and or fractions of an Ohm. So since this factor is concrete to each atomizer and we are forced to change to different resistance atomizers in order to change this variable. It is this number that we are basically forced to base our other variables around. If you have a 3.0ohm atomizer then you'll want to change your voltage to 3.7-5.0v (Though in reality most will be closer to 4.5v). This will give you a wattage range between 4.5w-8.3w. Right on target!

Amperage (Current):
When we speak of Amps in dealing with cigarettes we are simultaneously referring to the flow of electricity itself as well as how much of said flow each device can safely handle. Since if there is no current there is no vaping the flow of electrons is really not what we're after here though so we're focusing on the ability of a device to handle heavier loads of current.

Let's see Amperage as the strength of your arm. If you lack the strength to pull back the bowstring to a certain level, then you're simply not going to be able to fire an arrow at that strength.

When you vape you are balancing an equation known as Ohm's Law. Ohms law is I = V/R or Current (amperage) = Voltage/Resistance.

So when you go to vape, let's take a standard non VV ego as a popular example: X = 3.6v/2.0ohm

Solving this equation for X (the Current/Amps) = 1.8 amps are being drawn. Now this discussion on amperage most likely won't apply to you if you are using a regular PV, but when you get into dual coils the amperage can very much affect the ability of the device.

For example:
If you have a 2.5 amp device that means that the APV (such as the Lavatube 1.0) can't push a voltage/resistance combo higher in any equation above 2.5 amps (it lacks the arm strength). We know that the device is capable of 6v so let's push it to the max.

6v/3.0ohms=2amps (12 watts). So it can handle any normal application. Let's push it harder. We want more wattage (because we're crazy like that). If we did a combo of 6v / 2.0ohm = 3 amps you'd see the lavatube 1.0 can't handle that. So why does that matter? The wattage on that, 18 watts, is far too high to be comfortable, and far too hot too be good for your atomizer coil. Well what if you had 2 coils? The resistance is not doubled when you use dual coil atomizers, the wattage is. So if you were to put a 2.0 ohm dual coil cartomizer on the Lavatube 2.0 (with 3 amps max on that device) it would take that 18 watts and split it into 2 which is 9 watts a piece, that's a decent vape - perhaps a little hot, but it works. Now do you understand where amperage plays a role when it comes to "extreme vaping"?

Amperage won't really effect anyone in the normal realm of vaping (since all of the common APVs I have seen have enough amperage to handle the reasonable full range of voltage and resistance on a single coil), but if you are a power user, who likes extremes, it comes into play. Also, if you like dual or triple coil atomizers (and they come in cartomizer and clearomizers now - I do think that these could play a bigger role in the future of vaping) then Amperage plays a pretty big role in getting things just right. Having and not needing is better than needing and not having. Many people have complained about the effectiveness of dual coil cartomizers in the past and they have said that single coils do the same thing, but they lacked the amperage to fully mess around with it until now. To me this is all theory, but it is something I will be putting to the test ASAP. Of course I will post the results.

As it is right now, if an APV can't handle the current it will typically either lower the voltage to a safe level without telling you as a safety precaution (as the Lavatube does) or it will give you an error code and prevent the operations (as the Provari does). There are a wave of newer APVs on the market that are pushing up to 5 amps. Just to throw a crazy number out there. With 5 amps you could push a 1.2 ohm triple coil atomizer at 6 volts and get 10 watts per coil, a mighty vape indeed.

In conclusion, it doesn't take 6v to vape well. If the idea to hit the target of vapor production, throat hit, and flavor (i.e. the sweet spot of voltage, resistance, and wattage) then one could just as easily hit the target with a well used shortbow as they could an English longbow or even a well tuned crossbow. Bigger isn't always better, you just need to get the right combination to hit the bullseye of your sweet spot target.

I originally started with vaping with a 4.2v KGO (eGo clone). Once I got my first Twist I found I actually got better vapor at 3.8v so I went DOWN, not up to achieve my sweet spot with my atomizers. Raising the voltage, and thus, the wattage, within the proper sweet spot ratio will produce similar amounts of vapor at any scale within the sweet spot range. The only difference will be the accompanying heat (sometimes referred to as throat hit) as you scale up. This essentially proves what I said in the very beginning of this blog that more voltage isn't necessarily the answer, that getting the right ratio is the answer and that can be done on a Twist, or it can be done on a Provari. More isn't always better. How you get there, and how much you spend to do it, is up to you.

You can do your own calculations with the Ohm's Law Calculator found here:

Ohm's Law Calculator

I hope this makes everything easier to understand.

Further Reading:

Ohm's Law:
Ohm's law - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Voltage:
Voltage - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Resistance:
Electrical resistance and conductance - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Current:
Electric current - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Wattage:
Electric power - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Hey Shoga, just wanted to say thank you for this great blog... you really put a lot of work into it and it's highly appreciated!!!
I came back a lot of times and it was entertaining and informative all the way.
I never said Thanks... shame on me...
So this goes for you

Q50: How can I know I am getting a genuine Joyetech eGo-C Twist and not a knockoff?
A50: The difference between a real, genuine, Joyetech eGo-C Twist and a fake knockoff are glaringly obvious if you know what to look for. I will post pictures that will say it all. Suffice it to say that the knockoffs are inferior in every way except for price. I got a knockoff and it doesn't Twist so well. The voltage potentiometer is so tight that it takes some serious effort to move it. It's also 900mah compared to a real one at 1000mah so it doesn't last as long either. Click on the pictures and it will redirect you to imageshack where you can click on the picture again to zoom in and see it really well.

Bottom View:


Top View of center posts:

You'll also notice the rubber gasket is white on the Genuine Joyetech, while the knockoffs is more a (stained probably by me) clear gasket o-ring. This gasket separates the positive from the negative and is essential to the operation of the e-cigarette. It looks more robust on the Joyetech too.

Close-up View of the eGo Connection:


Side-by-Side Comparison:


So now hopefully you can spot the differences between a real and a knockoff. It may be harder to do from a tiny picture on a website, but make sure it says genuine Joyetech on the product page of the site before you buy. Right now, the cheapest place to get a real genuine Joyetech eGo-C Twist is from Altsmoke.com at $26. Sweet-Vapes.com has them for $27. Depending on whatever else you are ordering you may choose whichever vendor works better for you, but I have bought from both and they are both satisfactory.
While I'm at it, I meant to write up a review on Sweet-Vapes.com so I will do that right after this.

If you manage to be at a brick and mortar store you can pull this blog up and check for yourself in person if you can't remember the details.

I hope this helps. Remember, real Joyetech eGo-C Twists don't come in 900mah size.

Vendor Review: Sweet-Vapes.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Please note: there are two sweet vapes websites. The one I am referring to is Sweet-Vapes.com (don't forget the dash/hyphen) not SweetVapes.com (unhyphenated). SweetVapes seems more about unique mods than the general e-cig businees like Sweet-Vapes. They appear to be more of a specialty vendor concerned with impressive looking vapes, than actually tasty vapes like Sweet-Vapes. So that's the distinction between the two. SweetVapes = SWEET! (meaning: awesome!) and Sweet-Vapes means MMMM sweet! (meaning: tasty). Don't the two mixed up. They have very different business models. I am reviewing the tasty sweet-vapes.

Many people rave about the E-Juice that Sweet-Vapes sells. I thought I would give them a try even though, as you know, I don't really buy a lot of commercial juice. They have a good reputation as a vendor. I did it because, at the time, I wanted another genuine Joyetech eGo-C Twist, and a couple of Vivi Nova Minis, and they have both. Altsmoke.com has genuine eGo-C Twists as well, but they have no Vivi Nova Minis so I didn't want to pay double on shipping just to get what I wanted even though it cost me about 4 dollars more to go with Sweet-Vapes ($3 more on shipping, and the eGo-C Twist was $1 more than Altsmoke). Had Altsmoke had both of the items I wanted I would have gone with them because they are local to me (Ohio) but, alas, due to the circumstances I could not.

Product Quality Grade: A+

Selection: B- (they have some good hardware and juice selections)

Hardware Cost: B (they have some good prices on their APVs)

Juice Cost: D- ($20 for 30ml is pretty fail compared to ECBlend's $8.99/30ml)

Shipping Costs: D- ($5.30 for Priority Mail - pretty pricey for a 5 day delivery!)

Shipping Delay: D (the amount of time it takes for them to get it in the mail)

Shipping Time: D it took 5 days to get from Wisconsin to Ohio.

Customer Service: A Dayna (co-owner) wrote me a little thank you and a happy face on my receipt. That's always nice that they take the time to make it personal. I'm sure dealing with them if you have a problem wouldn't be bad at all. Dealing with a woman is usually nicer than dealing with men in that respect.

I assessed a number for all these grades, added them together and then divided them by 7 (the number of categories I graded them on) and I came to this final average:

Overall Average: C

They are an average vendor. Nothing outstanding, nothing utterly wrong with them either. There's lots of room for improvement, but it could be a lot worse too. That's a C in my book anyway.

Q51: What is the correct draw technique for vaping?
A51: I actually get this one a lot from newbies. The answer is, there is no real correct way other than what you think is most satisfying to you.

First let me point out that the draw on an e-cig is much longer than on an analog cigarette. The average cigarette drag is 2-3 seconds. The average drag on an e-cig is about 6 seconds, although this does vary from person to person. Some people like to vape until the thing auto-shuts off (where applicable), vape it some more, and then exhale. Others take dainty little puffs that are as fast as lightning. If you smoked before (and I hope you have if you are reading this) then you know what you do/did.

Let's break down some of the different styles of inhaling/exhaling:

Inhale Styles:

Straw style:
You suck on your PV like a straw and inhale the vapor until you get a good hit. This is the most basic draw. Crude, but effective. If this is what you did with cigarettes and that worked for you then keep it up. I still use it from time to time.

Toke style:
This is probably the most preferred style of vaping, probably because the draw of an ecig is slower than smoking is, but does have issues of its own as you will soon see.

This style is characterized by inhaling the vapor into your mouth first by creating suction with your cheeks. The vapor is then inhaled into your lungs. This process usually repeated several times until a satisfactory amount of vapor has been inhaled. It's also the most dangerous to people in close proximity to you because, unlike the straw method which doesn't let any vapor escape, the Toke style method can accidentally release un-inhaled vapor into the air which is loaded with nicotine (which is also wasteful - the idea is to get it in your lungs). What you normally breathe out is commonly considered water vapor with flavor additives.

French Inhale:
This style of draw uses the toke style method to get the vapor in your mouth. Upon pulling the PV away the vapor is pushed out with the tongue and inhaled through the nose. Since this style of draw is commonly used in France (usually with cigarettes) this is where this term originates from.

Exhale Styles:

Cigar Style:
This is kind of an in-between style of inhaling and exhaling so it was kind of hard to figure out where to put it. I hope you will forgive me if I just put it under Exhaling. Again this draws upon the Toke style draw, but instead of inhaling through your lungs you just breathe it out through your nose, which is what cigar smokers are supposed to do since you aren't supposed to inhale cigars. I don't recommend this style since inhaling vapor is nothing like inhaling cigar smoke, and I have no idea how much of it is actually absorbed since the surface area is less in your nose than in your entire lungs and we discussed earlier the ramifications of un-inhaled second hand vapor.

"Just-Blow-It-Out" style:
Any way you want. You gotta breathe sometimes and the best way to do that is if you exhale what you got in your lungs first . Blow it out your nose, blow it out your mouth, blow it out of both at the same time, squeeze your lips and blow it out one side, the other, or both simultaneously, blow it up, blow it down, spin your head around in circles, blow it in a napkin or "vaper towel" for stealth vaping purposes/added safety (such as around sensitive people/asthmatics/children); whatever's clever.

Smoke Rings:
This is a very complicated art that is very hard to type out and is much better demonstrated with video. So, without further ado, let me introduce you to a smoke ring master, Igetcha69 (Scott). He's also an amazing e-cig reviewer and one of the very oldest veterans in the vaping world:



Also, as an added bonus to this answer, here is a link to his review channel on YouTube. Any and everything can be found there. From vaping history to cutting edge unreleased products, he's seemingly reviewed them all. If you can cut through his strong British accent then you're good to go. If you are from the U.K. you'll probably prefer his reviews to American ones; the choice is yours. So here it is:
E-Cig-Reviews.com - YouTube

There are other tricks that impress barroom types, but many of them are obscure or impossible with an e-cig so that's why I didn't bother to mention them. If I think of any more I will be editing this to reflect that.

Q52: What's the best way to slot a carto for my carto tanks?
A52: The Pre-Punched Tank Cartomizers that are commercially available, I think we can all agree, are ineffective. The best way to get a good one is to choose your favorite brand and put slots in them (instead of punching them). There are tools that you can buy that will allow you to punch a neat hole in your carto without distorting its structure, but I am not a fan of owning tools that only do one job. I'd rather have a tool that has multiple functions. Here's a helpful video that shows you how a "carto tank only" using veteran does it. Note, you'll need a rotary tool (such as a Dremel) and a cutoff wheel (he incorrectly refers to them as cutting wheels) to get the job done. He makes decent suggestions on where to get these tools if you don't have them already. I think everyone should have a Dremel. You don't know how useful they are until you get one. Without further ado, here is your link. Enjoy:

A PBusardo Tutorial - How I slot my cartos!.wmv - YouTube

Q52: Is the Provari the best APV on the market?
A52: This is a touchy subject for Provari owners, who often pontificate on the many advantages of accurate voltage output, superior durability, and ironclad (for a price) 2 year warranty of the Provari. In my opinion, those marginal benefits are hardly worth the great cost of a Provari, especially when (if durability is the issue) you can literally buy multiple replacements for that price and STILL have money left over.

I once calculated that for the price of one Provari you could run up to 8.333 years worth of eGo-C Twists (if each one lasted the prescribed 300 full discharges and 300 full recharges that manufacturers suggest that you replace your battery after). Meanwhile, if you somehow got 8.333 years out of your Provari (without a single repair), you'd have to buy a new battery for it every 10 months (at BEST - it's the same 300 full discharges/recharges even on the bigger battery), which would bring the cost up even higher (10 new batteries = $140 minimum + shipping) and then you could get more eGo-C Twists. It would probably take decades for the Provari to catch up in such a price war. Even after knowing all of this, would you even WANT a Provari in 8.333 years? Things change so quickly, it might be a year, it might be 2 years, but eventually even the Provari will be yesterday's news; a part of vaping history.

I hereby debunk the idea of vaping for life on a Provari as being a viable reason to justify the incredible expenditure of money for one. 8.333 years is a long time. You could drop it, lose it, get it stolen, your dog could eat it, it could get hit by a meteorite, or lightning... 1 lifetime APV does not a backup make. 3 is the minimum (and 2 chargers). I'm all about spending your money wisely, but when you look further into it, as I have, you can easily see that this is not spending your money wisely.

Do I have a vendetta against the Provari, or Provapes? No. Do I have a vendetta against collective consciousness blindly following the advice of others when they are confused? YES! Do I have a problem with a company that preys on the weakness of others' addictions? Yes. It's no different than the Big Tobacco corporations we barely left behind. If the Provari was at a competitive price I would be the first in line to recommend it. It's the price, first and foremost, that I have a problem with.

I said in the beginning of this blog that I would focus on vaping as best as possible, for as cheaply as possible, without sacrificing quality in the process. I mean to stick to that belief that vaping doesn't have to cost nearly as much as the habit we gave up. The Provari isn't a part of that plan for me. It's not a need, it's a want.

Since you don't need to hear the pro-Provari side of the argument (for the 1000th time) I'll just skip that part. Please let me present to you the other side of the argument (that fanboys don't want you to hear) starting with what I think are some good Provari alternatives.

The Smoktech VV Gripper has a greater amp limit of 4 amps compared to the Provari's 3.5 amps. The only advantage to greater amperage limit is in the application of low resistance multi-coil atomizers at high voltage. In the case of dual or even triple coil atomizers the wattage is split between each coil. Previously people would say that they suck and that they can get the same thing with a single coil, but they didn't have the amp limits to truly push them to the limit that we now can. Are they still right about multi-coils? I can't say... yet. The MSRP on the Smoktech Gripper is $55 for just the base box mod - no batteries, no charger.

The problems with the Smoktech VV Gripper: It runs a little hot as many other Chinese APVs do (i.e. its voltage is inaccurate in what it gives vs. what you ask for - usually on the plus side), usually only at the lower voltages. Not a big deal for around 20% of the price of a Provari (that's fully decked out and with 2 batteries and a warranty). You also may need an adapter for certain atomizers (like the Stardust eGo Vision Clearomizer, and the E1-V) since it's only a 510 connection and not an eGo connection, but at that price this shortcoming is a little easier to stomach.

The durability of the finish on a Gripper has got to be superior to metal when it comes to dropping it on concrete. Show me steel that doesn't scratch, please. It doesn't exist. Rubber, on the other hand, why I've had quite a few PVs with rubber finishes and dropping them gives a nice bounce feature and the finish is unharmed. Owners have reported that they are quite durable, physically speaking. They are too new to determine long term electronic durability. For the price of one fully-decked out Provari you could afford 5 Smoktech VV Grippers.

The Smoktech ZMax is another new unit, relatively untested, that schools the Provari in performance IMO. It is a Variable Voltage/Variable Wattage Tube Mod. Variable Wattage schools voltage because you set what wattage you prefer, and it does the math based on your resistance of your atomizer and volts up to that level (or down). It's an easy button. Sure, the voltage output's probably not that accurate, but if your vape comes down to a .1v difference between good and bad you are too picky. Wrap a wick with a coil to compensate if it bothers you. Variable Wattage is the way of the vaping future, not in just the rare and expensive Darwin, or the limited Evolv Kick, but in every APV.

Now, if you please, let me elaborate on what I think about the Provari Phenomenon.

Let me ask you, have you ever heard such hype, as you have like with the Provari, and then took the plunge and said "Man, they were so right!"? Rarely, I'm sure. Even a million people can be wrong (and often are, as proven by Presidential Elections). I advise you to avoid the cattle mindset. Are you willing to spend that much money to find out? If you go to Provapes and add it all up it's around $250 - ignore the people who say $150 - no one buys a bare unit sans charger, batteries, 18650 endcap, and warranty. If you can't afford the real deal then you shouldn't be buying a lesser version of the Provari. The Provari Mini, for example, is the SAME price as the full sized version (which further proves my accusation of greed on the part of Provapes). This isn't a $15 movie ticket we're talking about - this is big money. There are 1000 ways to vape, almost all of them cheaper than the Provari - which is now old by vaping standards. It will soon be surpassed and may have been already (time will tell on that end). Lifetime investment, the Provari is not. It's pretty hard to invest long term in a fast changing market. If that wasn't true. then there wouldn't be people on Wall Street every morning for the opening bell...

There are fanboys out there, and they don't like me to tell the truth, but the fact is that if it were so great they wouldn't be lurking on the ECF. They would be enjoying the "perfect vape" and would have nothing left to glean from this place. They're still here, trying to justify their great expenditure, and letting everyone know that they have "the best". It's an elitist's tool, and their continued presence here speaks volumes to the contrary. It's a facade. This is emblematic of the problem with America today. It's not about who has better ideas, performance, etc... it's about who has better "optics", as they say.

If the Provari was the best, they'd amp up production and put one in every vaper's hand for a sensible price. Alas, it doesn't happen, and this is contrary to almost every business model since time immemorial. It is for this reason that I believe that Provapes' Provari is doing the vaping community, and the American Economy, a great disservice.

My impression is that their business model is more the Cadillac style business model: let's not work too hard and make a crapload of money by doing the least possible - selling aging intellectual property (based on someone else's design) and claiming superior quality as a luxury item. By keeping supply low, and demand high, it raises the price of admission. Through rarity, people will think they are the best, and then Provapes can kick back and rake in the dough. Does a Cadillac get you to the same location any better than a Toyota Corolla? You may look better, but that's all your buying; appearances. It's literally the oldest trick in the book.

(aside: It reminds me of Dr. Seuss' "The Sneetches". The Plain-Belly Sneetches all go out and get Stars on their bellies (the few) and become Star-Belly Sneetches (which becomes the new fad), and it is suddenly the fewer Plains who are left become cool once everyone has stars (rarity breeds envy - just look at diamonds and gold). This goes back and forth, adding and removing stars until they finally decide that everyone's cool for being themselves (not likely to happen in the real world - it's a utopian vision, but one we should strive for over materialism). (Now, back to the plot: ).

The All-American business model, like our political model, should be expansion, expansion, expansion. If you want to support America, do so in a company that provides as many jobs, to as many Americans, as possible. If Americans don't wise up China will soon show us how it's done, but this problem is not ours to bear as vapers. Nor is it as bad as you think, which I will explain later.

(continued in the next post)...

(A52: Continued)

Now let's speak of this purported superior durability of the Provari. If the durability of the Provari was so great then people would opt not to get the extended warranty (and Provapes wouldn't bother to sell it, they'd give it away for free); they'd put their money where their mouth is. Besides, if you send in the Provari, what they charge you is what you'll pay, 2 way shipping too, I bet. Not to mention the wait, both in the repair, and in the shipping times. It could be a month or longer before you see your Provari again, and you'd likely have no backup to compare to it. It'd be a personal hell. After all that money to get your Provari back you could probably get a whole brand new APV for that price. I know that if I had to chase a circuit down to find out what's wrong I'd take you (a captive audience with absolutely NO leverage) to the cleaners, even before I got into the price of replacement parts.

Which brings to me to my last point; this hatred of Chinese products. Sure, there are quality control issues, but they are not as bad as you'd think. They are closer to ~1 in 10 (according to my friends who are E-cig Vendors) in stark contrast to what All-American Provapers would have you believe (100%). I might remind the audience that China is the reason we are vaping, and I would wager that well over 90% of us are vaping Chinese PVs, and almost 100% are vaping chinese atomizers. I'd also bet that 50% or more are vaping Chinese juice. The amount of money spent on a Provari isn't changing the economy when you're driving a foreign car. 2.7% was the percentage of American Household Income that went to the purchasing of Chinese goods (according to Federal Reserve Bank of San Francisco). 55 cents of every dollar spent on Chinese-made goods goes to American companies on the back end (sales and marketing). I'd say we're getting the better end of the bargain for doing the least amount of work. Hardly the reason for our economic collapse, especially considering how much American money is tied into investments in so much of the Chinese economy. Remember, China is new to this economic game. Their doors were closed for centuries - nay, millennia. Granted, if we all took the money we were giving Big Tobacco and gave it all to China then that wouldn't be a good trade by any stretch of the imagination. Tobacco is an American cash crop. But, I don't want an economy based on a game of death. I WANT there to be more USA made vaping products, but in this economy the growth in that sector is limited. More shocking still is this hated of Chinese made e-cigs that people would spend many times more money for the same effect. This is not in keeping with my belief in frugality.

The American vendors from which you buy these Chinese goods are at least doubling their money (if not tripling it, in some cases), and that money goes straight into the American economy. As a wise politician once said, there are new jobs out there - we just need to educate ourselves on how to do them. We need to change with the times. This "All-American is the best" ideal is exactly what Provapes wants you fall prey to, and they're making money hand over fist doing it. It's nationalism at its worst, it's ugly, and it's patently untrue.

I encourage everyone to stop letting other people do the thinking for you. You are not a mindless zombie. Use your eyes, use your head, and think for yourself. It's your money. You earned it, and you get to spend it. No one else knows how best to spend your money wisely like you do. Yes, I'm sure that if you bought a Provari you'd like it and do like the fanboys are doing. Otherwise, you'd have to admit to yourself that you were wrong and that you wasted your money. I find that, in life, the first lie often starts within before it is spread to others.

Does that give you enough to think about?

Q53: Are Vape meets (conventions) worth it?
A53: I'm going to take the against side of this argument since, once again, it's always "they're so awesome!". I am nothing if not a balanced individual.

In my opinion (from a completely monetary standpoint) they are probably not worth it, that is, unless you know a good forum friend or someone there that you'd desperately like to meet. Good friends are priceless. Adding to your acquaintance list is not so priceless.

From what I have seen (and I will link you some vids after this) they look pretty expensive and boring as hell. Sure, you might win/get free stuff, you might see something cool, you might meet some cool people even, but at that price I'd rather go to a bar lol. Remember, by the time you pay for 2 nights in a hotel (and the gas/wear and tear on your car/time off of work/airplane ticket) you are in so deep you could've bought almost anything you wanted in the world in vape. Even if you are a vendor, the cost of getting there (unless it is local to you) would outweigh any profits/exposure you might get.

I suppose if you HAVE everything you ever wanted already, then go for it - good for you! What I am getting at is: any discount you may receive from a vendor there is NOT worth the price of admission. Anything that is available as a pre-release, if it's important, will be released regardless of the vape meet. Meeting a celebrity reviewer or two, let me remind you, that they are NOT actual celebrities. They are just boring old regular people. They have no noticeable art or talent (otherwise they'd be making videos of that). CASAA will make it by without you. I don't feel the vaping world is any sort of imminent danger and, as I have said countless times, they are not going to ban the chemicals to make your own juice (since they have other legal uses) and they aren't going to ban the materials to make ecigs (since they have other legal uses). We're not really in any danger as long as we are self-sufficient enough to make our own stuff (which really isn't as hard as you'd think - I'll try to post more "apocalyptic vaping" tutorials soon).

I urge you strongly to reexamine your life if you are so desperate to meet people who vape that you would pay so much out of pocket just to do so. Start a family, see a legend in concert, take the money and go on a real vacation (Rome, Paris, somewhere tropical), join a book club, volunteer at a non-profit organization, feed the poor at a soup kitchen. There are more productive ways to spend your time and cure your loneliness. If you disagree with me, cool - it's all you (too each their own), but this is just my opinion on why I will never be attending a vape meet. I am not lonely, but to me these people seem exactly that - not my problem.

To me these meets just seem a way for vendors to capitalize on your need for a souvenir and to maximize profits/exposure while simultaneously allowing you to pay for their trip. Free cartos, a vape from a different PV, or a taste of juice is NOT worth it. That's the frugal in me talking. Either that or call me antisocial. Call me a cynical jerk if you want to; I'm cool with that. The only time I would say give it a try is if it's in your own backyard. Some of these conventions are free admittance, so it's nothing wagered, nothing lost. Traveling across country to sit at a table and gab with strangers in a vaper-soaked room that's more humid than a steamy jungle (of vaper stank), maybe not worth it so much. You could totally get a cootie. Remember, when you get back from these things, you really can't just go to the water cooler at work and say "Yo, I went to vape meet. It was RAD!". People will look at you with such disdain. In an alternate reality "Yo, I just got back from Rome. I saw the Colosseum and it was AWESOME" will get you better responses and your experience will be the memory of a lifetime. I think you're ok to phone this one in. The conventions will survive without you.

Vapercon (Richmond, VA) is supposedly the biggest vapemeet ever. Last year there were ~500 people in attendance. I am not sure how many came to it this year as yet. Here's some vids of last year and this year:

Here's Flitz's video (Vape or Die) on Vapercon 2011:


GrimmGreen:
THIS WAS VAPERCON2011 - YouTube

Pbusardo's version of Vapercon 2012 part 1/2:
A PBusardo Video - VaperCon 2012 Part 1 - YouTube

Pbusardo's version of Vapercon 2012 part 2/2:
A PBusardo Video - VaperCon 2012 Part 2 - YouTube

Product Review: The Stallion by Texas Select Vapor

Here's a promising review for a promising new tube mod.
It's Variable Wattage, and it uses a HUGE battery, the likes of which few of us have seen. Seems pretty cool to me! The only complaint is the proximity of the buttons to each other.
It's an All-American tube mod (for those who care about such things). It seems to be a very promising mod indeed. What I think is cool about it is the price vs. performance.