mAh's ohm's and confusion!!

[lillybit]

Ok guys n gals of vaping-ville!

Help!

I and my hubby have been vaping like crazy for the past 2-3 weeks...everything's going good, though the achies and quit zits n things have been happening some in the past week or so...which is to be expected....anyway...the HELP plea is for my not understanding ohm's mAh's and such....

Hubby's stated he really likes the clearomizers one of the lovely PIF members sent to us, no guessing if he's out of juice, no trying to figure out burnt vs non burnt, ease of view and ease of use no burning up atty's etc...and he likes the idea of a pass through and larger fat batt styles like the ego/epower/riva's

soooooo here's my question...we're looking to step up and we're going to be donating 2 of our current 510's to a friend who's trying to quit for his baby son, we'll be keeping 1 510 a piece to keep as spares....now...

ohm's n mAh's n things

If i'm looking @ clearomizers on got vapes, what ohm do I need for a regular 510, and for something of the ego/e-power/riva line what ohm carto does that take?

and where/why are mAh's important....I have read here and things, but i just can't get my brain to understand it...Help?

 

[dormouse]

As I understand it, 2.6 ohms or higher clearomizers for slim 510 ? Can someone verify that?

And the lower ones tend to crack more anyway.

 

[permafrying]

cant answer the ohms question exactly but if they're marked as lr don't use them on your regular size 510 batteries. mah is important because the higher the mah the longer your battery lasts before you have to recharge it. its basically just how much power the battery holds. i use 1.5 ohm dual coils on my riva battery thats only 650 mah.. or 750mah i forget. allot of people will say to stay at 2 ohms or higher if your not using a mod because you can blow the mosfet in the battery

 

[Capers]

While this analogy may not directly answer your question, it's good for reference and/or understanding =)

mAh (milliampere-hour) is just how long a battery will last at a given load.

Picture a regular bucket with 1 inch of water in it. At the bottom of the bucket is a small hole.

inches of water is like voltage (high water level = higher voltage)
size of the bucket is mAh (wider bucket = higher mAh)
size of the hole is ohms (wider hole = less ohms)

1 inch of water will only push so much water out of the hole, the bigger the hole, the faster the bucket will drain. Let's say it drains the bucket in 1 minute.

But if you filled a kid's pool with 1 inch of water and the same size hole, the water would flow through the hole at the same rate, but it would take (for example) 30 minutes to drain.

Fill either with 2 inches of water, and it will drain faster because there's more pressure (voltage) pushing through the same size hole (ohms). If you increased the ohms (which would be making the hole smaller), you could achieve the same flow of water as 1 inch with a larger hole.

Either this makes a lot of sense, or you're worse off!

LOL

 

[Sugar_and_Spice]

....you want a 3.0-3.4 or somewhere in between...the 2.6 will ruin the 510 or severely drain the battery and anything under that will run very hot on an eGo/Riva....the mah's is the power lenght of the battery....a 510 is 180 mah....an eGo/Riva is 650, 700 mah. This refers to the length of time between charges.... an ego/Riva is usually 3.4/3.7 refers to the 'hit' or volts you will get....
Does this help?

ps I think the person that sent them probally knew you had a 510 and sent 2.8 -3.0

 

[TomCatt]

Lilly
Google 'ohms law calculator'. Look for one that includes watts in the results. With this calculator and the voltage of your battery and the ohms of the atty/carto, you can find the watts that will be generated from each combination. The watts equate to heat; stay below 10watts. A typical 510 starter pv will generate about 4 watts. For mods, 6-8 watts are the recommended range. Hope this helps.

 

[Sugar_and_Spice]

TomCatt, I will try to find the thread on the clearomizers and ohms.....I think its in the cloudsofvapor thread.....


I found some stuff here
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...kers-c-e2-r4-review-tips-info-help-video.html

sixth post down or so....

 

[WomanOfHeart]

This might explain the difference:

LR and HV Atties Explained

This thread also gives you and idea of the recommended resistances you should use for the voltage of the battery you're using:

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...02-voltage-resistance-chart-madvapes.html#top

 

[DC2]

I think this is the best resource available for learning about all that...
WWV Part II (page 5) | Vaping Guides

I am shocked to hear people recommending anything over 2.5ohms with a 510 battery.
Do these clearomizers somehow work differently than 510 atomizers (2.3ohms) or am I missing something?

 

[lillybit]

Thanks it helps some...still a bit confused...so correct me if I'm wrong.... if i'm ordering a riva/ego style then I want to purchase cartos/clearos @ 2.4 to say 2.8, and if I am staying @ the standard 510 slim batteries, keep it at 3.0 to 3.4ohm? and as a clarification....lower the number ohm the higher mAh battery needed and harder hitting?


EDIT:

I posted this before I saw the updates, sorry for the silly questions, thanks for the resources...and maybe I'd be off in asking but if ya'll were setting up the next step up in purchase and looking at purchasing Riva's and clearo/fluxomizers specifically which ones would you pair up?

 

[Sugar_and_Spice]

Lilly,
unless you want your lips to burn do not order anything under 2.6 for either the 510 or the Riva......
on the 510 I use the 3.0 and above....the riva can take 2.6 and above but like I said the lower you go it run's hot....

 

[basilray]

For an eGo or Riva style battery, feel free to run the lowest ohm you like. The ohm rating determines how much the coil resists the power being fed through it.

The eGo and clones (most all of them) are pulse regulated. This means they are not emitting a steady voltage. They are constantly pulsing power. Kind of like flipping your light switch off and on so fast that the light stays on. They will only put out 3.3v, nothing higher. You will want the lowest ohm rating to generate a sufficiently heated vapor, unless you specifically do not like a hot vape.

I personally find the ce2 to put out a warmer bake than an atty. I would run the 2.4 ohm on my Silver Bullet with a high drain battery. Never had wicking issues in my MAP tank.

Their is a myth that lr attys will destroy eGo batteries. This is a wive's tale.

 

[basilray]

Lilly,
unless you want your lips to burn do not order anything under 2.6 for either the 510 or the Riva......

Not true. At 3.3v, even a 1.5 ohm atty can only produce around 7watts. That is not that warm.

 

[dormouse]

3.4 seems too high for slim 510. 3.4 stuff is usually for high voltage. Slim 510 is only a 3.2 volt battery. I think 2.8-3.2 should be reasonable to try on a 3.2v but if you want to be super safe then 3.0-3.2

.

 

[Sugar_and_Spice]

Not true. At 3.3v, even a 1.5 ohm atty can only produce around 7watts. That is not that warm.

We are talking clearomizers here....and I find if I try anything under 2.6 it burns me....
so it does run hotter...maybe because I don't use a drip tip? Not sure but it does.

 

[Credo]

I like the 2.4 Ohm CE2 with regular 510 and eGo batteries myself. I also like short quick burns/draws (as opposed to a long burn with a long draw) combined with the light/airy draw of a CE2....add darker/sweeter juices, so the extra heat allows this. I also find that in using the 'short burn' style of vaping, I never have any wicking problems or dry hits with an unmodded CE2....I use it right out of the box.

Having said that, anything under 3ohms should give you a good vape on stock 510, 901, eGo/Riva, and 808, e-cig batteries. Anything at or above 3ohms is probably better for true 4.2v/3.7 regulated batteries (Riva SE/iGo/E-power) and big battery mods, 5v pass-throughs, or VV/HV mods.

The thing about the CE2 type carto, is the coils are very close to your mouth, hence, the vape will be warmer on your mouth/tongue/throat than a bottom coil carto at the same resistance.

I've gotten some of them all under 3ohms for my stock e-cig batteries (because sometimes I just have to get what ever is left and can't be picky they sell so fast)...they all did fine for me. I slightly favor the warmer ones rated from 2.4 to 2.6 Ohms.

 

[Credo]

P.S.

For a true USB pass-through...it's likely to run at 5v. In that case, you probably will want some of the 3 Ohm or higher atties/cartos for that device.

Another type of pass-through to consider is the eGo battery/passthrough. It's really a 650mah battery with a USB charger built in, so it vapes from 3.2v to 3.4v under load. Perfect for any of the CE2s under 3 Ohms. These can be used while they are plugged in and charging, or removed from the cord and used like a regular eGo battery.

 

[Credo]

Mah rating in batteries... the larger this number is, the longer the battery charge will last. Also, higher Mah makes the battery safer to use...as it is less likely that a high drain call upon pushing the button will ask for more than the battery can deliver (total battery drain plus some). This is why people are safely using LR stuff on eGo batteries. Egos stop and wait to be recharged when the voltage drops to under 3.2v. This is a point where the battery is still quite a way from being totally drained. This head room makes it safer to use LR stuff on the higher Mah rated batteries, less likely to trip the mofset safety feature built into the batteries, or cause an explosion.

Voltage Rating on batteries.
With the right atty hooked to it...this is less important these days, as you can get atties/cartos with different resistances to compensate. Lower Ohms, or things marked LR will burn warmer. Higher ohms will burn cooler, and HV (3.5 Ohms and up) stuff will be really cool unless you are vaping with 5v or higher batteries/passthroughs.

OK, there are some advantages to HV/VV big battery mods...but at quite a price difference.

If you're interested in some really nice mods...they really are worth the money. Check this site out if you're thinking of spending anymore than say $90 on any given battery option:
http://www.ecigarette-mods.com/

Feel free to ask questions about any of them.

 

[Richie G]

An analogy or two --

mah = the size of your gas tank
voltage = horse power

one way to *increase* the voltage is to lower the resistance of the atty. (not a truly accurate statement but it should get the point across)

 

[Sugar_and_Spice]

Thanks it helps some...still a bit confused...so correct me if I'm wrong.... if i'm ordering a riva/ego style then I want to purchase cartos/clearos @ 2.4 to say 2.8, and if I am staying @ the standard 510 slim batteries, keep it at 3.0 to 3.4ohm? and as a clarification....lower the number ohm the higher mAh battery needed and harder hitting?


EDIT:

I posted this before I saw the updates, sorry for the silly questions, thanks for the resources...and maybe I'd be off in asking but if ya'll were setting up the next step up in purchase and looking at purchasing Riva's and clearo/fluxomizers specifically which ones would you pair up?

I have passthroughs...the Joye eGo 650mah....these are theones that you can unplug and it still holds the charge like a reg 650 mah battery...Great for when you are at a computer....although, I have heard not to plug them into a laptop because it tends to blow the usb port....since I am on a tower, mine do fine.....You should look for a wall charger/or a car charger that has 2000mah/5volts...this are what is recommended to run correctly....
I also would buy clearomizers for them at 2.6-2.8 or 2.8-3.0. As stated, the coils are much closer to your mouth and anything lower does get very hot. If that is what you like, then by all means get 2.4. I am only stating my opinion, but if you do get an eGo passthrough, you will never run out of power.....at least, I dont.