Eleaf Istick

[Phone Guy]

Has anyone tried the "styled" istick? Like from focal or fasttech? Do they perform differently? Are they better? Worse?

I got my wife a genuine eleaf IStick 30w and it's plagued with a bad fire button. Wondering if the styled clones are better? I'm hoping they'd be better?

Anyone have any experience with them?

 

[shatteredsoul76]

The 30w I got my wife isnt working after a little over a month, oddly enough I also gave her the 20w I got when it first came out and its still working flawlessly. Does anyone know what size the star screws are to take this thing apart?

 

[IMRs]

The 30w I got my wife isnt working after a little over a month, oddly enough I also gave her the 20w I got when it first came out and its still working flawlessly. Does anyone know what size the star screws are to take this thing apart?

I believe it is T5.

 

[shatteredsoul76]

Thanks!

 

[aldenf]

Has anybody ever figured out the amp limit of the iStick 30W? Googled it, but wasn't able to find an answer.

Current specs for the iSticks have never been posted that I've seen. It's limitations are 0.4Ω & 30W (3.46V). That's 8.66A off the chipset and 10.5A (or so, max) off of the battery. Why do you ask?

 

[RedheadedBStarD]

Trying to dial in a coil ohmage that doesn't drain the battery so damn fast.

 

[aldenf]

Trying to dial in a coil ohmage that doesn't drain the battery so damn fast.

Techie Stuff


We all know that regulated devices work on watts-in-watts-out. Given 100% chipset efficiency (wishful thinking), the resistance of your coil will have no effect on battery life at any given wattage. The iSticks' chipset efficiency has never been published either, that I've seen. I low-ball a guess at 90%. But that's an average. A chipset's efficiency varies throughout it's operating range. It has been my experience that a (buck-boost) chipset's setting with highest efficiency lies somewhere around it's battery's native voltage. In the case of the iSticks, that's 3.7V.

Building your coil(s) at a resistance that allows you to obtain you desired vape in the 3.5-3.9V range should provide you with maximum battery life, especially with Li-Polys. There is a slightly larger discussion to be had regarding the iStick (30 &50) switching between PWM & DC-DC somewhere around 3.1V. A little experimentation should find your sweet spot. I build my RTAs & Clearos to vape between 3.7-4.5V. This keeps me squarely in the DC-DC output, which I prefer. I continue to get better battery life with my 30watter than my DNA 30 devices (w/ 2500mAh, 20A 18650).

Good Luck!

 

[IMRs]

Techie Stuff

Aldenf Rocks!!

 

[IMRs]

iStick 50 at FT...
Found 4 Authentic Eleaf iStick 50W 4400mAh (Priced: below $40.00) at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

 

[tiburonfirst]

I believe it is T5.

sounds about right

 

[TrollDragon]

iStick 50 at FT...
Found 4 Authentic Eleaf iStick 50W 4400mAh (Priced: below $40.00) at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

Buy all 4 and you should get one that works good...

 

[LynnNC]

iStick 50 at FT...
Found 4 Authentic Eleaf iStick 50W 4400mAh (Priced: below $40.00) at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

The red 30W(which is what I want) is only $24.12...not bad if I want to wait a month.

 

[IMRs]

Buy all 4 and you should get one that works good...

At least I did something right and never went above the 20's that I have. Still going strong with no problems!
Have a nice night everyone!

 

[aldenf]

Buy all 4 and you should get one that works good...

I've been out of the loop for a couple of months. Have there been problems with the 50watter?

 

[TrollDragon]

I've been out of the loop for a couple of months. Have there been problems with the 50watter?

Just today on our local FB group there were issues with one that fires by itself, another guy posted he is on his third one and my local B&M says there have been quite a few returns. There is a problem with the chipset or something.

Bikenstein had a bad 30W and 50W if I remember.

 

[aldenf]

Just today on our local FB group there were issues with one that fires by itself, another guy posted he is on his third one and my local B&M says there have been quite a few returns. There is a problem with the chipset or something.

Bikenstein had a bad 30W and 50W if I remember.

I had read that Bike had a problem with a 30watter that Evape made good on. I hadn't heard of wide-spread issues with the 50. That's disappointing. Found some stateside for $35 and was thinking of picking one up. I've really been holding out for a temp control chipset/device. I don't need 50W. But 4400mAh sounds nice. And $35? I paid that for my first 20watter! Maybe I'll just save my money.

 

[gandymarsh]

I had read that Bike had a problem with a 30watter that Evape made good on. I hadn't heard of wide-spread issues with the 50. That's disappointing. Found some stateside for $35 and was thinking of picking one up. I've really been holding out for a temp control chipset/device. I don't need 50W. But 4400mAh sounds nice. And $35? I paid that for my first 20watter! Maybe I'll just save my money.

I'm pretty sure his problem was with a 50w. I think the 50w has had more reported problems than the 30w. There's a post in the New Members section right now about a 50w that shut itself down and won't turn on.

 

[RedheadedBStarD]

Techie Stuff

Thanks aldenf. I was just trying to check the sweet spot with the mod range app on steam.

I use a lemo drop with my 30 and recently have been playing with 26awg. Either I get to much ramp up time, or suck the battery dry in less than a day. Next wire will be 30awg; probably twisted and in a spaced coil at 1.25 ohm.

 

[Kent C]

See if this works - re: Bike and his 30 and 50 - this post and the very next one:

.....

Nope. Tried to copy/paste the post and it didn't take. Anyway somewhere in the istick 50 thread.

 

[aldenf]

Thanks aldenf. I was just trying to check the sweet spot with the mod range app on steam.

I use a lemo drop with my 30 and recently have been playing with 26awg. Either I get to much ramp up time, or suck the battery dry in less than a day. Next wire will be 30awg; probably twisted and in a spaced coil at 1.25 ohm.

Good thinking, Red. I've never been a fan of heavy gauge wire in RTAs. Ramp-up time is terrible. It also cools as slowly as it heats, causing coils to gunk up faster. I run twisted 30g in my RTAs and twisted 28g in my RDAs, both spaced and tension-wrapped around a 6-32 machine screw (2.7mm i.d.). RTAs @ 1.4Ω. RDAs @ 1.0-1.2Ω. I only do singles anymore.

Good luck with your Lemo Drop. I can't wait for a Lemo Drop 2! Or is it Lemo 2 Drop?