Eleaf Istick
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Ah, It's coming back to me now. Bike's 30w was reading 40+ watts or something like that.
If I was a drinker, I could blame it on that
ETA I just saw the link. It was both.
If I was a drinker, I could blame it on that
ETA I just saw the link. It was both.
Have a question that applies to both the 20 and 30 watt iSticks. I use either a Lemo or Ehpro KFL topper. The issue I'm having (I think) is with the 510 pin making good contact. Every atty bottoms out when I put it on the PV and leaves me very little "wiggle room". Some of the toppers are fine, others won't even show a connections, and yet others the Ω's will jump around (sort of interesting to watch the display when that happens). I've checked the 510 screws on the toppers and all of them appear to me to either be flush or protrude slightly. Some I can crank down (gently crank that is) and get contact, but often it will go to 0 Ω in the middle of a draw.
I know this is a long thread and I tried to skim through it, but didn't see anything. Am I doing something wrong? Is there a way to get better "contact". I've considered Noalox, but I don't think that would be a fix. If this question has been asked previously, apologies for the duplicate. TIA for your help.....
I know this is a long thread and I tried to skim through it, but didn't see anything. Am I doing something wrong? Is there a way to get better "contact". I've considered Noalox, but I don't think that would be a fix. If this question has been asked previously, apologies for the duplicate. TIA for your help.....
Yes at the request of those of us from the DarK Sidethey're working on a 'dark' theme - it'll be a while
Been on vacation....
No word from my employer............Might be
lookin for a soup line soon...
I had a 30 and a 50 do a BLS..
try lifting the center pin gently! also, madvapes has something? that can be used underneath the pin to permanently lift it. the 30 watt pin should be spring-loaded so not sure what's going on there
maybe somebody has a link to that stuff on madvapes
Thanks for the help. Good point on the 30 watt "stick".... that one does seem to have fewer problems. I'll try your suggestion about lifting the center pin.... gently!! With my luck the pin will come flying out with tiny little wires in tow....loltry lifting the center pin gently! also, madvapes has something? that can be used underneath the pin to permanently lift it. the 30 watt pin should be spring-loaded so not sure what's going on there
maybe somebody has a link to that stuff on madvapes
Don't follow about stuff on Madvapes.....
Follow up: Tried lifting the pin and seemed to get better contact, but soon as I hit the fir button, I'll hear that little sizzle from the coil and then it quits. Look at the display and it's showing 0 Ω. If I tap gently around the 510 connector with the topper still on the Ω's start jumping from 0 to 4 to 2.5 to 3 -- all over the place. I'm not one who over tightens and now I'm wondering if there is a connection issue with this particular device. I have yet to try taking the top off and don't even know if it is a wise decision. Very frustrating and confusing.... why can't I ever have straightforward problems.....
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My guess is the insulator from the pin on the 20W is bad allowing the pin to short against the case. Use a bottom silicone insulator from a Kanger coil head to fix it.Thanks for the help. Good point on the 30 watt "stick".... that one does seem to have fewer problems. I'll try your suggestion about lifting the center pin.... gently!! With my luck the pin will come flying out with tiny little wires in tow....lol
Don't follow about stuff on Madvapes.....
Follow up: Tried lifting the pin and seemed to get better contact, but soon as I hit the fir button, I'll hear that little sizzle from the coil and then it quits. Look at the display and it's showing 0 Ω. If I tap gently around the 510 connector with the topper still on the Ω's start jumping from 0 to 4 to 2.5 to 3 -- all over the place. I'm not one who over tightens and now I'm wondering if there is a connection issue with this particular device. I have yet to try taking the top off and don't even know if it is a wise decision. Very frustrating and confusing.... why can't I ever have straightforward problems.....
The broken grey one pictured is the stock insulator. You have to unsolder the red wire to feed the pin into the silicone one.
Thank you TrollDragon..... that makes sense. Dang, no Kanger devices here.... I'll have to look for something that will work. I do have a bag of the old carto "condoms" I may be able to cut to fit.
Would you happen to know the type/size tool for removing the overly small screws? My eyeballs don't focus down that small anymore....lol
Would you happen to know the type/size tool for removing the overly small screws? My eyeballs don't focus down that small anymore....lol
I took one apart with a small jewelers flat head screwdriver. I think the tool is a t 5 or T 4. The small screwdriver did work very nicely..........
Thanks, SS stingray..... I know I have some of the "T" type tools, but don't think that small. I do have smaller jewelers screwdrivers though.... I may try "surgery" later today.... I will report on how the "patient" fared.....
I didn't do the fix....
Let's start with the 30watter. Gently press on the 510 pin a few times to make sure it's traveling the way it should. Sometimes spring-loaded pins get hung up.
As for the 20watter, it's 510 connection was a known problem which was resolved in the 30. Attys with shorter 510 threading/stems may not make the best contact, if at all. My Erlkonigin doesn't like the stock 20watter.
Pull the top cap with a T5 bit and take a look at the insulator. If it appears to be fine, the #60 o-ring under the 510 pin trick (from the MVP v1 & 2 days) works great. Longer stemmed attys may not sit flush with the o-ring in place however. If you're patient, you can sand a bit of the thickness off the o-ring before installing. That was my fix.
If the stock insulator looks fine, I would recommend simply using your shorter stemmed attys on the 30 and longer stemmed attys on the 20. Not ideal, I know. Unfortunately, the iStick 20W is a bit of a compromise. Mine is still going strong after six months though.
Good luck. We're here if you need us...
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Been on vacation....
View attachment 453598
No word from my employer............Might be
lookin for a soup line soon...
I had a 30 and a 50 do a BLS..
Nice... Did you get to surf Maunaloa or Kilauea?
There's a vendor stateside selling the 50 for $35 (& 30 for $20.50). They're "in the style of". But they look identical with Eleaf/iStick branding and all. At that price, I was thinking about it. What say you? You have a better hold on the 50 scene than I.
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