How much is that eentzy weentzy o-ring gonna cost, I suppose? And how many am I gonna pick outta my sox?
Good luck all.
KangerTech SUBTANK Mini
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How much is that eentzy weentzy o-ring gonna cost, I suppose? And how many am I gonna pick outta my sox?
Good luck all.
Nelson, love vert's. Just seen enclosed externally wicked coils fail bad.
There's an excellent thread that ran through last year on vert's for the Protank which had a lot of experienced rebuilders on there and ran for quite some time...BSD's vertical hollow core Micro Coil build for ARO, Evod, and Protank heads. I'm sure there's more and comparable to later evolution heads like the Aspire's but I tracked this one steady. My take is half the peep's never nailed it and the one's got it goin' ran into a variety of recurring performance issues. Particularly matching wick density and orientation to airflow.
Questioning the wisdom of producer choices for this design and why were flooded with them (pun intended).
(Of course you can run 'em dry, and hot. If that's what you like. No flooding, no problem. Big vapor.)
Given the vaper defections from the rest of the externally wicked tank world to the Subtank, it begs the question…whatcha thinkin' up Kanger??? The words counter-productive come to mind.
Good luck all.
p.s. We'll just have to see have to see how fiddly that set screw's gonna be. Close bottom airflow loves fat-a** winds.
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Today I went to my local B&M because my Lemo Drop was messed up. Couldnt get the stand pipe over the coil off and ended up using too much force and distorting it. I was hoping they would of had a new stand pipe but no luck so I asked to see what they had for RTA's. They showed me the Kanger subtank line and I ended up picking up a subtank mini. I needed another RTA like I need a hole in the head but I like shineys! While I was in the store I picked up a IPV4 as a replacement for my Istick 50W clone that went kaputz on me, and a bottle of Unicorn Milk.
The one major drawback that I seen right away about the subtank mini is now I dont like my Kayfun lites, my kayfun V4's, my Lemo II's and Drops nor my Orchids. Also it goes thru a lot of juice. That unicorn milk 15ml bottle is down to about a quarter bottle left. I am using the stock .5 ohm kanger coil but building a coil on the mini RBA deck wont be nothin but a thing. I just wished when I recently switched to RTA's I would of tried the Kanger subtank mini first.
What I really like about the subtank mini is that I can vape it at 20 watts where before I was limited to 13 watts max on the other RTA's except the Orchids. Anything higher than that I was getting burnt hits when chain vaping which I do alot. The airflow is phenomenal. I am able to lung hit it all day long and blow great clouds. I have always been a mouth to lung hitter, even during the 40 years I smoked but direct lung hits on the Kanger is just so natural it is unreal.
All in all I would have to say Kanger hit it out of the ball park with their subtanks. I am going to have to pick up at least one more to replace my kayfun light that has my ADV tobacco blend.
The one major drawback that I seen right away about the subtank mini is now I dont like my Kayfun lites, my kayfun V4's, my Lemo II's and Drops nor my Orchids. Also it goes thru a lot of juice. That unicorn milk 15ml bottle is down to about a quarter bottle left. I am using the stock .5 ohm kanger coil but building a coil on the mini RBA deck wont be nothin but a thing. I just wished when I recently switched to RTA's I would of tried the Kanger subtank mini first.
What I really like about the subtank mini is that I can vape it at 20 watts where before I was limited to 13 watts max on the other RTA's except the Orchids. Anything higher than that I was getting burnt hits when chain vaping which I do alot. The airflow is phenomenal. I am able to lung hit it all day long and blow great clouds. I have always been a mouth to lung hitter, even during the 40 years I smoked but direct lung hits on the Kanger is just so natural it is unreal.
All in all I would have to say Kanger hit it out of the ball park with their subtanks. I am going to have to pick up at least one more to replace my kayfun light that has my ADV tobacco blend.
I've found that with the right build, the flavor production is so good on the sub tank I can cut my juice by half with vg and still get great flavor. I've been buying 12mg juices for that reason.... Cut it by half and have two bottles of 6mg for the price of one
I've found that with the right build, the flavor production is so good on the sub tank I can cut my juice by half with vg and still get great flavor. I've been buying 12mg juices for that reason.... Cut it by half and have two bottles of 6mg for the price of one
The flavor from the subtank is unreal. Thankfully I DIY my juice the majority of the times but occasionally like today I will pick up a premium bottle like Mothers Milk or Unicorn Milk. I have weened myself down to 3 mg nic and at times like today I used so much juice that my head feels a bit light from more than normal nicotine.
I have seen vids on youtube from the don and a few others that Kanger seems to have followed on their new versions of the RBA. The new RBA has a hole in the side instead of the older juice channels. I have two and have tried to do the same. I have gotten my second rba with the holes on the sides and have yet to have any issues with leaking or dry hits.
Have anyone else done this modification on their Subtank?
Have anyone else done this modification on their Subtank?
I drilled mine out. Never really had an issue with it stock, but I did get a dry hit here-and-there. I mainly use max VG juices, or at least nothing less than 80%, so it helps for sure. Since I drilled holes in it, I've never come close to dry hit. As long as it's built right, no leaks either.
Just checked my RBA deck and it doesnt have the holes in the chimney so will drill a couple in it before I use it. I prefer to mix my juice at 80VG/20PG to slow down the leaking on my orchids and kayfun lites and would like to keep my juice standard so i can use it in any of my RTA's.
I did that on one of mine, but on two others I simply enlarged the juice channels. The latter seems to work better for me.
I square notched mine on the bottom of the barrel where it meets the juice channels. also dremmeled the juice channels bigger. Enlongated the air holes in the bottom of the rba. I have rune straight 100 vg through it at 38w with no dry hits.
I will try and get some pics tonight. Just make sure that you drill the holes in line to where the wick lays. Basically in line with the factory juice channels. That way the wick comes out of the coil and covers the holes in its natural position. Also, you want the holes to be slightly lower than the coil, but high enough so you don't muck up the threading on the inside of the tube. The YouTube video referenced earlier, by The Don, is helpful to watch. He explains it pretty well. Here is a link to that one:
Yeah, there will always be more than one way to skin a cat. As long as you can get better flow to the wick, that is the main thing. I have an early version with the super small juice channels. Even though I rarely had dry hit issues with it, I did it anyway, just for insurance I guess. I did the drill because it was super easy, and it was what I had access to at the time. Took me about two minutes, including getting the drill and getting everything ready.
Wife and I tried 30/70 PG/VG and it didn't wick that well. I drilled her's today and hits like a champ with higher PG. Pretty sure I used on the higher VG in my dripper.
Hoping drilled it will wick the higher VG juice better, plan on picking some up today and see how it work.
I was surprise how easy it was to drill. With it being curved, I had some concern the bit might walk some, but the bit did not move off the mark I had place.
Hoping drilled it will wick the higher VG juice better, plan on picking some up today and see how it work.
I was surprise how easy it was to drill. With it being curved, I had some concern the bit might walk some, but the bit did not move off the mark I had place.
ive lowered the % of flavoring for my diy juice
but in winter if i still have this tank i will def drill her out as my juice in the cold is like molasses.
i also vape at 70vg/30pg w/no extra drilling, 18 to 25 watts no dry hits, well almost never lol. w/thicker wick being better than thinner going through the coil but i thin ends somewhat.
but in winter if i still have this tank i will def drill her out as my juice in the cold is like molasses.
Excellent video, thanks for sharing it. Was watching a Rip Tripper video yesterday and he built a coil on one that already had the hole and I thought the newer ones already came with the hole but the one I bought yesterday will need holes drilled in it. Rip did a little different on the wick but I guess thats all a personal preference.
I have been outta the loop for a few months cuz my wedding planning took all my time. I'm back in action and have a few questions... I want thr new subtank plus, who has it at a good price? And I keep hearing that the new rba is different, holes instead of channels. Can I order these somewhere? One more question, I think I read/heard they changed the occ's? If so, who carries those? Thanks so much!!!
I want thr new subtank plus, who has it at a good price? And I keep hearing that the new rba is different, holes instead of channels. Can I order these somewhere? One more question, I think I read/heard they changed the occ's? If so, who carries those? Thanks so much!!!
I have been outta the loop for a few months cuz my wedding planning took all my time. I'm back in action and have a few questions...
From what I understand, the newest version has two air slots in the base, comes with red o-rings and black o-rings, no longer comes with the replacement glass. The RBA has been changed and is now held on with an o-ring and a little set screw, no longer has juice channels, but has holes in the side. The OCC heads now have vertical coils in them instead of horizontal. As far as where to grab the new stuff, not sure on that as I haven't looked.
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