DNA 200 Watt
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Your cutter will act as a contact. Cut them at the same time, you absolutely will short the battery 
Sent with one hand, the other is busy vaping.
Sent with one hand, the other is busy vaping.
Like was already said, pre tin the board contacts by putting a little Flux, put the iron tip on the contact and feed a little solder. It should literally cover the contact in a few seconds. Do the same procedure to the wire. Finally put the wire on the contact and the iron on the wire. Watch closely the tin that you put earlier on the contact. Once it liquidifies, remove iron and keep holding the wire in place until the solder cools down.
DO NOT BLOW ON THE SOLDER JOINT
You probably know this already but I know at least one guy that I watched soldering a point and then proceeded to blow on it with his mouth
that's almost a certain cold joint. You don't want that. Anyway, considering it was your second soldering job, congratulations. Looks much better than expected.
I'm going to send you a pic per pm
Keep it up.
Regards
Tony
Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
Don't worry. I am clever enough. I am so scared of this lipo I won't make mistakes. going to cut a decent amount of wire off so that my box isn't 90% battery cable showing.When you cut the lipo wires......BE SURE to only do one at a time.... Your think that would be obvious, but seems to be a common mistake
Does anybody have pictures of how they did DNA builds in hammond boxes since I still haven't figured out how I am going to get the chip in solid + the screen(cut the hole and just epoxy the screen against the hole?) maybe il just make a wooden(since I do run a kitchen store together with the parent) piece to seperate the battery and chip and mount the chip against that with double sided tape but then again the USB wouldn't be anywhere near the encasing. still hate the onboard USB would of prefered the loose kind the 20-40 hard since I could of put the usb anywhere instead of HAVING to shove the USB against the side with the screen?
but first things first. get my disc cutter thing and make the encasing less deep.
Like was already said, pre tin the board contacts by putting a little Flux, put the iron tip on the contact and feed a little solder. It should literally cover the contact in a few seconds. Do the same procedure to the wire. Finally put the wire on the contact and the iron on the wire. Watch closely the tin that you put earlier on the contact. Once it liquidifies, remove iron and keep holding the wire in place until the solder cools down.
DO NOT BLOW ON THE SOLDER JOINT
You probably know this already but I know at least one guy that I watched soldering a point and then proceeded to blow on it with his mouth
Anyway, considering it was your second soldering job, congratulations. Looks much better than expected.
I'm going to send you a pic per pm
Keep it up.
Thanks a lot!
I didn't blow, but now I'm curious - why would that change how the joint hardens? And would it be the same if I for example directed a hand-held fan at the joint to cool it faster? That did occur to me, though I didn't try - and in practice I found it cooled pretty quickly.
That's great news that I don't need to feed solder in for soldering to the board. It means I don't need to mess about for ages trying to get the Helping Hands to hold the wire in just the right position, angle, and with enough force to hold it tight against the board. I can hold the board in the helping hands or vice, and then hold the wire myself in one hand and the soldering iron in the other. That'll be so much easier.
I feel like I want to re-do those wires now
But when I take them off there's likely to be a whole mass of solder on those pads. Advice for cleaning that off? Last night I scraped some off the wires by heating it with the iron and then using a razor blade to take some off, but it wasn't hugely effective. Not sure how that will work on the board. Maybe I could use a cotton bud / Q tip to literally soak it up? Or a small sponge or something?Or is there some standard method for doing that?
Ideally I'd like to be able to get it all off so I can start again as if from new, then go with the flux and pre-tin as you and KTM described. It doesn't matter about the ends of the wires, I'll just cut those back a bit to use fresh ends.
Thanks a lot!
I didn't blow, but now I'm curious - why would that change how the joint hardens? And would it be the same if I for example directed a hand-held fan at the joint to cool it faster? That did occur to me, though I didn't try - and in practice I found it cooled pretty quickly.
That's great news that I don't need to feed solder in for soldering to the board. It means I don't need to mess about for ages trying to get the Helping Hands to hold the wire in just the right position, angle, and with enough force to hold it tight against the board. I can hold the board in the helping hands or vice, and then hold the wire myself in one hand and the soldering iron in the other. That'll be so much easier.
I feel like I want to re-do those wires now
Or is there some standard method for doing that?
Ideally I'd like to be able to get it all off so I can start again as if from new, then go with the flux and pre-tin as you and KTM described. It doesn't matter about the ends of the wires, I'll just cut those back a bit to use fresh ends.
Did you happen to get some solder wick when you ordered all of your soldering stuff? That would be the easiest way to clean them up. I fear possibly damaging the pad with something mechanical like a razor blade or screwdriver.
It wasn't that many years ago when NiCads were the end of the world
It wasnt that long ago when you bought your vaporflask and said ill never need more then 40w to.
Thanks a lot!
I didn't blow, but now I'm curious - why would that change how the joint hardens? And would it be the same if I for example directed a hand-held fan at the joint to cool it faster? That did occur to me, though I didn't try - and in practice I found it cooled pretty quickly.
That's great news that I don't need to feed solder in for soldering to the board. It means I don't need to mess about for ages trying to get the Helping Hands to hold the wire in just the right position, angle, and with enough force to hold it tight against the board. I can hold the board in the helping hands or vice, and then hold the wire myself in one hand and the soldering iron in the other. That'll be so much easier.
I feel like I want to re-do those wires now
Or is there some standard method for doing that?
Ideally I'd like to be able to get it all off so I can start again as if from new, then go with the flux and pre-tin as you and KTM described. It doesn't matter about the ends of the wires, I'll just cut those back a bit to use fresh ends.
It has to do with the way solder cools down. When you blow on it, it cools much faster from the outside and can contract leaving a empty bubble inside. I'm no pro so check out Google about cold solder joints. Those are the worst kinds of errors to find because you look at it and it seems fine. An experienced person might notice the dullness of the solder which usually indicates a cold solder joint but that's not always so easy to spot.
Regarding cleaning... The normal for boards is to use a solder vacuum pump or solder wick. In the first case you heat up the contact, place the pump tip on the contact (it's usually Teflon) and press the release button which sucks the solder off. In the second case, you place the end of the wick on the contact, put your iron tip over it and the wick should absorb the melted solder. Repeat as necessary.
Old and most simple trick (some guys are going to raise their arms in despair) :
Heat up the contact while you hold the board in your left hand and once the solder is liquid, lift your hand (and board) a couple of inches above the table and hit the table with the back of your hand. Make sure the contact you heated is at an angle so the solder can fly away in the right direction (table) without touching other components of the board.... 1 hit and the solder is gone
Tony <- Ducks and runs
Regards
Tony
Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
Thank god the wife is sleeping haha. But yeah the screen/chip facing the front would solve alot of issues but I am not too keen on front screens. would prefer having the screen on the side. but then the board would be in the way of my own buttons.
Essentially that is kinda how I want everything to end up. now as you can see the board is pretty close to the side because of the USB. hell it has to go in a little bit deeper so the USB port is deep enough to actually connect. now because of how CLOSE it is to the side I don't think I can solder my own buttons properly(i know two of the prongs get cut off and I can bend them). now if the USB was a separate small board I could just move the chip further away from the the side(as far as the screen ribbon allows me) and I would have plenty of room to wire my buttons and have the small usb chip underneath them. I guess I could just buy the tiniest darn USB cable but that is just silly.
so if I get it right that shapeways thing is a group that PRINTS out designs you buy? huh I thought that you just got a file for printing yourself.
Thanks guys! No, no soldering wick, but I just looked on eBay and it's cheap so I'll get a few meters of it.
Haha Tony I like the idea of the flick I did that a couple of times last night to get excess solder off my tip or wire. I don't know if I'll try it with the board just yet
I see that solder wick is a copper braid, so I might have a go just using some stranded wire. Heat it up and see if I can get the majority of the solder to wick onto it. Won't be as good as the proper wick but might be good enough to get the job done without waiting until Monday for the real thing.
Haha Tony I like the idea of the flick
I did that a couple of times last night to get excess solder off my tip or wire. I don't know if I'll try it with the board just yet I see that solder wick is a copper braid, so I might have a go just using some stranded wire. Heat it up and see if I can get the majority of the solder to wick onto it. Won't be as good as the proper wick but might be good enough to get the job done without waiting until Monday for the real thing.
God protects the bold [emoji14]Thanks guys! No, no soldering wick, but I just looked on eBay and it's cheap so I'll get a few meters of it.
Haha Tony I like the idea of the flick
I see that solder wick is a copper braid, so I might have a go just using some stranded wire. Heat it up and see if I can get the majority of the solder to wick onto it. Won't be as good as the proper wick but might be good enough to get the job done without waiting until Monday for the real thing.
Yeah, I don't actually recommend doing the flick but it works and your hand protects the board.
Get the wick. They come really handy. Personally I hate my vacuum pump so wicks and flicks are my preferred methods
Regards
Tony
Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
You should do this with wire coming out of ANY battery.When you cut the lipo wires......BE SURE to only do one at a time.... Your think that would be obvious, but seems to be a common mistake
The solder is still liquid for a couple of seconds after you remove the iron. Tony is correct that the outer and inner material cools at different speeds and can cause the solder joint to become weak like a cold solder.Thanks a lot!
I didn't blow, but now I'm curious - why would that change how the joint hardens? And would it be the same if I for example directed a hand-held fan at the joint to cool it faster? That did occur to me, though I didn't try - and in practice I found it cooled pretty quickly.
That's great news that I don't need to feed solder in for soldering to the board. It means I don't need to mess about for ages trying to get the Helping Hands to hold the wire in just the right position, angle, and with enough force to hold it tight against the board. I can hold the board in the helping hands or vice, and then hold the wire myself in one hand and the soldering iron in the other. That'll be so much easier.
I feel like I want to re-do those wires now
Or is there some standard method for doing that?
Ideally I'd like to be able to get it all off so I can start again as if from new, then go with the flux and pre-tin as you and KTM described. It doesn't matter about the ends of the wires, I'll just cut those back a bit to use fresh ends.
I use a solder sucker to get excess solder off most of the time because it doesn't hold heat around the solder area but wicks are easier. Cotton or a sponge will just burn and you'll end up with a bigger mess.
On the pic I posted describing solder joints, the first 4 will break off and fail, the last 4 will hold but the over-soldered joints might cause shorts. Your technique of adding solder while you're soldering on the board will most likely result in #6 and #8.
Now I think about it. the screen facing forwards isn't too bad. just mind(whooowhoooo) tested it and it works fine to me. Then again I WAS about to buy a snow wolf a week and half ago and that thing has a screen on the front. So that throws away most of my issues involving wiring for buttons. Just got to find a way to set the chip and screen in solid and I can start. hope that guy I saw on shapeways that had a beta DNA 200 holder gets his chip soon so he can make it fit perfectly.
I was gonna suggest top fire button with that honkin large button ya got
Sent with one hand, the other is busy vaping.
Sent with one hand, the other is busy vaping.
Lipo is in the way. So can't do that.I was gonna suggest top fire button with that honkin large button ya got
Sent with one hand, the other is busy vaping.
I feel like I want to re-do those wires now
If you heat the wire and pad up to remove it, most of the solder will come with it.
You don't need to work to get it off the wire, just cut the gooped part off and make a fresh end if you have room.
The solder left on the board will probably be ok to attach the wire too. Add flux, put a tinned and fluxed wire onto the pad and heat till they become one.
You can use fluxed bare wire for solder sucking if you are in a pinch...you have lots of it on hand. You can also suck up solder with your iron...getting it hot and clean and fluxed, it will take up some solder from a pad.
For me flux is the key...I use a paste and dip each wire in before tinning and after and I use a finger to add it to chip pads.
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