Mike n Tibs DNA Mods!

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VapingBad

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Neat trick!
Another good one for the power wires on DNA30 & 40 is to tin the silicon wire before stripping/pulling back the insulation, some wire is very hard to tin and keep thin enough to get through the PCB holes. You just keep feeding solder with the iron tip on the end of the wire, you can tell how far up the wire the solder gets by it's stiffness, you just trim the end where a blob of solder forms and they fit the holes on the PCB nice and easy.
 

Kaana

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screen alignment done, been rockin all day :2cool:

zsk6tk.jpg
 
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SlickWilly

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OK guys, I could use some ideas on the steps to mount the screen in this Hammond box. I'll need to have the board and screen live so I can see the lit up area when I fix it in place. Not real enthused at the idea of messing with the board any more then I have to once the battery is hooked up, I don't want to short something out and there isn't going to be a lot of room between the board and the box face but I don't see any way around it. I know I'll have to be very careful, I can lay down some tape in the box and on the board to help during the install but still need to be careful. My thought was setting the screen would be the last step before putting the screws through the face to attach the board.

I'm either going to put tape over the back of the screen or use double sided tape to go between the inside of the box and stick the screen to it, I rather use the double sided tape. I was planning on putting the double sided tape on the inside of the box, cut out the screen opening with an x-acto then stick the screen to it. I could also put tape over the back of the screen but I doubt I'll need to, the 3M tape I'm using is the stuff that holds the screens on ipods, it's very thin and very strong after it sets. Thoughts?

Not much wiggle room in there.....

DSC01769_zpsn7o3qoi9.jpg
 

Squonk_me

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Cut your tape to the size of the opening in the box. Then place the tape on the screen,,, outside the box. Which will allow you to get it centered right with the screen lit up, ( just plug in the usb cable not the battery). Then match the tape up with the opening in the box ,, and stick it!


ETA,, Use the wide tape!
 

SlickWilly

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SlickWilly

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Cut your tape to the size of the opening in the box. Then place the tape on the screen,,, outside the box. Which will allow you to get it centered right with the screen lit up, ( just plug in the usb cable not the battery). Then match the tape up with the opening in the box ,, and stick it!


ETA,, Use the wide tape!

Only problem is I've got to solder the wire's to the board first, unless I set the screen in place using the USB power, then unplug the screen from the board, solder and put the board back it. But getting the screen cable hooked back up in that tight space might be tricky.
 

Squonk_me

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Once you get the screen on one side of the tape, just leave the paper on the other side until your ready to put it in the box. Solder it all up and then eyeball the tape,, as you put the screen up to the cutout,, no power needed for that.

also, once you cut the opening that matches the hole, use a sharpie to color the cutout on the tape before you put it on the screen.

Cradle the board and screen connected when you put the taped screen in place. Still no power connected to worry about. Unless,,, you're not using connectors at the battery.
 

SlickWilly

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Once you get the screen on one side of the tape, just leave the paper on the other side until your ready to put it in the box. Solder it all up and then eyeball the tape,, as you put the screen up to the cutout,, no power needed for that.

also, once you cut the opening that matches the hole, use a sharpie to color the cutout on the tape before you put it on the screen.

Cradle the board and screen connected when you put the taped screen in place. Still no power connected to worry about. Unless,,, you're not using connectors at the battery.

Ah, good idea! Sounds like that will work, thanks! :)
 

awsum140

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The three mounting holes is easily one of the dumbest design decisions I've ever seen. One way or the other, the corner with no mounting hole will flex by pressing the down button and create a weak point. It's the sole reason I will never buy a DNA200 mod.

That's easy to remedy. Just mount a spacer underneath that edge on the sled for the chip/board, something I am planning on.

I got some vape mail, well sort of, today. 0-80 screws, taps and drills, which I was waiting for to assemble the low tank 40 and the Hammond 200 and some more end mill bits as well. I also picked up some brass angle stock, brass because they didn't have aluminum, and some 1/8" polystyrene tubing to make spacers with.

Now I'm going to end up doing something I swore I wouldn't...work on both at the same time. I did the layouts on both enclosures this morning and got the sled/battery holder drilled, tapped, glued and screwed together for the low tank. While the JB weld for the brackets for the sled dries in the low tank I'll start milling and drilling the Hammond 200.
 
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