You will be fine leaving the SS cup, but all inner workings of the connector and pin need to be removed. Once you remove the pin, you will see non-metal pieces that also need to be removed.
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You will be fine leaving the SS cup, but all inner workings of the connector and pin need to be removed. Once you remove the pin, you will see non-metal pieces that also need to be removed.
Two more conversions, loving the 2x18650 battery life 
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Ermahgerd, buddy at work just handed me his converted VV LP reo grand. He said, "do with it, what you must!"
He gave me the ok to chop it up. Rob converted it for him to mechanical with the little battery bumper.
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He gave me the ok to chop it up. Rob converted it for him to mechanical with the little battery bumper.
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Hi Folks, I have been keeping my head down waiting on a local CNC machinist that four months ago took on a job for me to mill out some Australian stabilised wood enclosures for my latest mosfet wood squonker, I gave him the sketchup files and the design parameters and since then it has been a nightmare of communication and lack of any action on his part. I haven't done any other modding since I finished the design for this project and I am starting to go stir crazy.
Any way I have started to consider getting a mill or a router and do all the milling at home, or at the very least produce a prototype that can be sent to a machinist for reproduction should I want larger volume production.
I know this subject has been touched upon a few times, but I can't seem to find the answers that I want, so I am asking for advice.
Can I get reasonable results with hardwood on the Seig SX2 Mini Mill like this: Sieg SX2 500W Brushless Motor HI Torque Dovetail MILL Milling Drill Machine | eBay or do I need a router with the faster speed it's capable of. Are there specific end mill bits that would work with burl at the lower speeds the mill can achieve?
I know the router will be very loud, and I don't really want to be so restricted as to when I can use it, being as I work at nigh a lot. Also I would like to be able to mill SS brass and Alu. And I would ideally like to be able to CNC it at a later stage if I chose.
I know the tooling is important, but the initial tooling need to rout/mill enclosures shouldn't be too varied.
Apologies for asking questions that may have been asked again, but i need your guys feedback, and will be tremendously grateful for your help.
Cheers
SV
Any way I have started to consider getting a mill or a router and do all the milling at home, or at the very least produce a prototype that can be sent to a machinist for reproduction should I want larger volume production.
I know this subject has been touched upon a few times, but I can't seem to find the answers that I want, so I am asking for advice.
Can I get reasonable results with hardwood on the Seig SX2 Mini Mill like this: Sieg SX2 500W Brushless Motor HI Torque Dovetail MILL Milling Drill Machine | eBay or do I need a router with the faster speed it's capable of. Are there specific end mill bits that would work with burl at the lower speeds the mill can achieve?
I know the router will be very loud, and I don't really want to be so restricted as to when I can use it, being as I work at nigh a lot. Also I would like to be able to mill SS brass and Alu. And I would ideally like to be able to CNC it at a later stage if I chose.
I know the tooling is important, but the initial tooling need to rout/mill enclosures shouldn't be too varied.
Apologies for asking questions that may have been asked again, but i need your guys feedback, and will be tremendously grateful for your help.
Cheers
SV
Studio, long time...
I've milled tons of hardwood on mine (not a Sieg SX2, mines the Grizzly rendition but the mini mills are pretty much all variations of the same theme out of the same factory in china)...run it fast, use sharp tools, no worries...and hella quieter than my router...imo, buy cheap router bits so you can change them often...I just found that a $10 bit that you use for 10 jobs gives better results than a $20 bit you can use for 15 jobs, but that's just my opinion. But when it comes to true end mills, spend the loot, they're worth it (the tooling is what will kill you $ wise), and trust me, if you get a mill vise, buy a set of parallels, you'll think they can wait but trust me, they are a necessity.
Brass and Alu. are no problem, even cold rolled and SS in small bites
I've milled tons of hardwood on mine (not a Sieg SX2, mines the Grizzly rendition but the mini mills are pretty much all variations of the same theme out of the same factory in china)...run it fast, use sharp tools, no worries...and hella quieter than my router...imo, buy cheap router bits so you can change them often...I just found that a $10 bit that you use for 10 jobs gives better results than a $20 bit you can use for 15 jobs, but that's just my opinion. But when it comes to true end mills, spend the loot, they're worth it (the tooling is what will kill you $ wise), and trust me, if you get a mill vise, buy a set of parallels, you'll think they can wait but trust me, they are a necessity.
Brass and Alu. are no problem, even cold rolled and SS in small bites
Hi Quigs, yes it's been a while mate, been lurking every now and then, but kinda been sulking with nothing to contribute
Thanks heaps for your reply, that fills me with a fair chunk of hope that I can get going with the shopping list. I have to say the tooling side is a little overwhelming, I don't really know what I need, but I will want to get milling asap when I get the machine, I have seen some discussion on other forums about the Morse Taper MT3 vs the supposedly more common (readily available tooling wise) R8, the Sieg SX2 has models with both options AFAIK. Any advice on what tooling is a must have for Squonker milling would help considerably, I notice you mention using router bits.... Look I don't want to fill this thread with mill talk or expect others to for my benefit, I have been googleing like crazy to find some useful info on hardwood box milling and associated tooling requirements without much luck so if anyone knows a good place for me to study up on this let me know.
cheers
SV
Ya, I've been mostly lurking as well, the weather this summer has been too nice to spend it in the shop building hardware. I'm not seeing a lot of traffic on this thread lately so whatever, mill talk it is... My G8689 has the MT3 spindle and I've never had any issues finding tooling, it's pretty common in fact (at least in my neck of the woods). The cool thing is it also came with a good quality MT3 1/2" drill chuck ($$$ to buy separate) which allows me to run router bits and dremel bits (surprising how often I do that), it also allows me to be lazy and run up to 1/2" shank end mills without colleting...which I freely admit I do often (I was lucky, the drill chuck has very little wobble, close enough for most things) ...of course if you're doing some heavier cutting like CC you'll want a set of common sized collets
I keep looking at a quick collet set to cure my laziness
I keep looking at a quick collet set to cure my laziness
I've looked at quick collets but they take away some space in the Z axis so I like regular collets. I use R8, the biggest difference is the size, R8 can take larger tooling but you're probably not going to be needing 1" bits on a smaller mill so even mt3 would be fine
if your going to use the drill chuck for milling then you gotta try to keep the side load way down or the chuck can pop out of it's taper
as far as tooling, I too think of the mill as a huge dremel, you could get a cheap set of end mills and a cheap set of router bits and that alone should get you going really well, especially with wood. as you use it you'll find more needs but even with just a few basic bits you can get on to building whole mods
if your going to use the drill chuck for milling then you gotta try to keep the side load way down or the chuck can pop out of it's taper
as far as tooling, I too think of the mill as a huge dremel, you could get a cheap set of end mills and a cheap set of router bits and that alone should get you going really well, especially with wood. as you use it you'll find more needs but even with just a few basic bits you can get on to building whole mods
"if your going to use the drill chuck for milling then you gotta try to keep the side load way down or the chuck can pop out of it's taper"
Good catch...I should've qualified my statement with if you're working metal, collet...unlike wood, no-lead (naval) brass and especially copper can be grabby
Good catch...I should've qualified my statement with if you're working metal, collet...unlike wood, no-lead (naval) brass and especially copper can be grabby
So I just got my V5's from FD, they look like a decent piece of hardware, but I've learned from FD that sometimes looks can be deceiving...anybody running one yet?, when I get the chance this weekend I'm swapping out a V3 that's leaking like a stuck pig and just wondering if I'm going to be wasting my time or should I just go with the re-threader/vented screw as planned before the V5's came.
btw, the pos connector is kind of nice, wonder how much v drop I'll get through it?
btw, the pos connector is kind of nice, wonder how much v drop I'll get through it?
Thanks Quigs and Turbo, so to sumersise 1xMini Mill, 1xdecent precision vice, 1xset of parallels,1xcheap set of end mills, 1xcheap set of router bits, 1xfly cutter or face mill for squaring up block? (not sure about the last one really).
Then I can start making boxes?
On the subject of the FD V5, and you may be able to help me here Quigs, where is the sealing o ring for the main shaft. I have massive stock of the V4 flat top and the brass bf cores and although they have their limitations I like the dismantle able nature of them and the ability to change and/or upgrade the orings or even the whole core for that matter. I don't have an issue with the brass as I run a drift fitting 2mm OD 1.6mm I'd ss tube through the core, although cutting and installing this is an extra job tha takes some time obviously. How tight and smooth is the clearance of the pin in the ceramic sleeve?
With my current MOSFET box I get around 0.15v drop on a 0.65ohm build with the brass FD and that still impresses me every time I check it on the volt meter. I wonder what the effect of the Ss pin will be on that.
Then I can start making boxes?
On the subject of the FD V5, and you may be able to help me here Quigs, where is the sealing o ring for the main shaft. I have massive stock of the V4 flat top and the brass bf cores and although they have their limitations I like the dismantle able nature of them and the ability to change and/or upgrade the orings or even the whole core for that matter. I don't have an issue with the brass as I run a drift fitting 2mm OD 1.6mm I'd ss tube through the core, although cutting and installing this is an extra job tha takes some time obviously. How tight and smooth is the clearance of the pin in the ceramic sleeve?
With my current MOSFET box I get around 0.15v drop on a 0.65ohm build with the brass FD and that still impresses me every time I check it on the volt meter. I wonder what the effect of the Ss pin will be on that.
fly cutter is nice but I usually square up with an end mill and zigzag across the surface when it comes to wood, takes a little longer but less chance of pull out and chipping wood off the edges, fly cutter and any cutter really you have to be careful when it comes to wood, pulling out pieces of wood can be a real problem depending on the grain, especially if you need a crisp edge. as you start to play with wood you'll see...
it's always good practice to have your cut going into the wood rather than pulling out from the wood. wood is one place where climb milling is a good practice, especially on edges... watch the rotation of the bit and make sure that the leading cut edge is cutting towards the block so it doesn't pull pieces off and then move the bit in such a way that the leading edge is always pushing into the block as it progresses, otherwise you'll be surprised at how big the chunks can get pulled out from the edges, just by running the bit across the work in the wrong direction. if you need this clarified I'll draw a sketch explaining it
it's always good practice to have your cut going into the wood rather than pulling out from the wood. wood is one place where climb milling is a good practice, especially on edges... watch the rotation of the bit and make sure that the leading cut edge is cutting towards the block so it doesn't pull pieces off and then move the bit in such a way that the leading edge is always pushing into the block as it progresses, otherwise you'll be surprised at how big the chunks can get pulled out from the edges, just by running the bit across the work in the wrong direction. if you need this clarified I'll draw a sketch explaining it
There is so much I don't know yet, it's going to be another steep learning curve. Like how many flutes on the end mill will be best for stabilised hardwood and how many for Brass and Alu?, if you could post or send me some links to a suitable End mill and router set for sale, even if I have to source them in Australia it would give me an indication of the quality and type of bits I will be looking for. And yes I am that stupid at the moment in this area I do need you to draw me a picture LOL.
I have done very rough milling with my cronky old drill press and a guide clamped to the plate, that was dangerous and messy, I really can't wait to have the control of the mill.
Last question while I think of it, do i need a swivel or pivoting vice, I see they are much more expensive and figure rigidity and zeroing could be a pain?
For size
I know. Everyone has built a hammond squonker. Exciting for me though
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Just all fits, may even take some light dremelling once everything is wired.
Need to purchase a finish for the wood, which will hold things up.
Thinking the laik style squonk hole will be both easy and reasonable aesthetic
Borked the 510 placement
little overhang.Other than that, I am reasonably happy so far
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