KangerTech SUBTANK Mini

[Mowgli]

I made about 12oz total of about 15 flavors at 70VG for my Velocity rda.
I made so much thinking that I could also use them in my Subtanks (OCC) and Arctic tanks.
Apparently 70VG is too thick to chain vape big hits on these @ 75°F. ouch.

I'll mix about 4oz at 60VG since the season's getting cooler and see how that goes.

 

[cigatron]

Apparently 70VG is too thick to chain vape big hits on these @ 75°F. ouch.

Wow, you can't vape 70vg at room temp with occ's or artic coil? Whaaaaat? How many watts are you firing at Mowgs?

 

[Mowgli]

25W-30W with OCCs
50W with .2 Arctic

 

[cigatron]

25W-30W with OCCs
50W with .2 Arctic

Yep, that sounds about right. The STmini V1 RBA is a maybe a little better; about 35w max for normal off and on vaping with 70vg but if you chain it with every breath and get the juice to heat up ( heat thins it) it'll do 45w no probs....with 3-4 sec draws.

With a temp control mod set to a warm, not hot vape, (around 435 °f) my STminis hover right at 30w with 75vg at room temp (74°f). Plenty of dense juicy tasty vapor me; and I like a lot of all of those. Nice thing about temp control is that I never have to worry about dry or burnt hits; the mod just adjusts the power accordingly. If the wick runs a little dry or my draw effort is a little weak the mod turns down power. If the wick gets wetter or my draw effort increases the mod cranks up the power....sweeeeeeet!

@chanelvaps, are you listening? I know you have a temp control mod girl!

 

[Mowgli]

65VG has worked for me all Summer in the Arctic & Subtanks BTW.
It's surprising that 5% has made such a difference.
It might be because I got a Velocity that rocks 70VG @ 80-85W in Chain-Vape City.
I might be expecting too much from my tanks now.

 

[cigatron]

65VG has worked for me all Summer in the Arctic & Subtanks BTW.
It's surprising that 5% has made such a difference.
It might be because I got a Velocity that rocks 70VG @ 80-85W in Chain-Vape City.
I might be expecting too much from my tanks now.

Could be your vg is thicker? When I started DIY juicing I noticed that all vg is not created equal; some is thicker, some thinner, depending on the manufacturer. I noticed this when I switched to ejuice4u vg; it was a little thicker than the previous vg from mixwizard.

 

[Mowgli]

Essential Depot for almost 2 years

 

[Mowgli]

65VG has worked for me all Summer in the Arctic & Subtanks BTW.
It's surprising that 5% has made such a difference.
It might be because I got a Velocity that rocks 70VG @ 80-85W in Chain-Vape City.
I might be expecting too much from my tanks now.

Nope. I made 2 batches of "70VG" the other day via 8oz bottles of premix.
The juice was all made using the same flavoring % and the first batch of finished juice is all thicker.
The first batch got VG instead of PG so it must be about 80VG.
I use identical bottles for PG & VG identified by Sharpie on the caps & bottle front.
I poured the VG then must have poured more VG instead of PG.
The premix seemed to be the correct amount (240ML) so that's what must have happened.

Subtank minis with OCC coils DO NOT work well with 80VG

My Subtank Minis worked fine all summer with 65-70VG so next batch will be 70VG again. for realz.

After 100s of bottles mixed and way proud to not ever have made a mixing mistake.
NEVER let surroundings distract you from mixing with 100% concentration and focus.
Another lesson learned.

 

[cigatron]

Thanks for the update Mowgs, yeah, 80VG would be hard for occ or artic coils to keep up with. Glad you found the bug

 

[skyboxer1968]

I got a box of the ni200 vertical OCCs today in the mail. They read higher than is stamped on the side. The v1 STM on the istick 40w reads 0.23 and the v2 STM on the evic VT reads 0.24. I've been using them both in turn and the resistance seems to be drifting down. Regardless of what it reads it's a darn good vape.

 

[cigatron]

I got a box of the ni200 vertical OCCs today in the mail. They read higher than is stamped on the side. The v1 STM on the istick 40w reads 0.23 and the v2 STM on the evic VT reads 0.24. I've been using them both in turn and the resistance seems to be drifting down. Regardless of what it reads it's a darn good vape.

I'm happy to hear you're getting along with occ coil heads, even with res drifting around. My experience with them proved that the rubber grommets would not hold the res stable enough for temp control. Eventually the res would drift too far off; even before the wick died.

The STm rba deck on the other hand is rock solid for temp control. I've had the same Ti coils in my three STm rbas for two months now.

 

[skyboxer1968]

I'm happy to hear you're getting along with occ coil heads, even with res drifting around. My experience with them proved that the rubber grommets would not hold the res stable enough for temp control. Eventually the res would drift too far off; even before the wick died.

The STm rba deck on the other hand is rock solid for temp control. I've had the same Ti coils in my three STm rbas for two months now.

I've not jumped into Ti yet with the RBA
. I have both versions but on my V2 the post screws were tapped out a bit too big. It works but it's annoyingly sloppy and difficult to keep the last turns of the coil from changing size when mounting.
I'll keep an eye out for further shifts in resistance. I'm hoping I have better luck because I've been courted by the VOCC since trying the ones included with the V2 and have anticipated the temp control version's release. We'll see!

 

[cigatron]

I've not jumped into Ti yet with the RBA
. I have both versions but on my V2 the post screws were tapped out a bit too big. It works but it's annoyingly sloppy and difficult to keep the last turns of the coil from changing size when mounting.

Ok, I think I get what you are saying. A couple of things to help with that.

1. Wind your coils clockwise (looking a the ends of the coil) and leave your winding mandrel inside the coil when tightening the screws. Tightening of the screws will try to pull in the legs but it can't because the mandrel restrains it. This will keep your coil end turns from closing down.

2. If winding counterclockwise (like on a right handed machine screw for spaced coild) leave the machine screw in coil and barely snug the screws down, then bend the legs at 90° along side of the deck and hold them there while tightening the screws. This will keep the screwhead from pushing the leg toward the coil so your coil end turns won't open up.

Hope this makes sense.

 

[skyboxer1968]

Ok, I think I get what you are saying. A couple of things to help with that.

1. Wind your coils clockwise (looking a the ends of the coil) and leave your winding mandrel inside the coil when tightening the screws. Tightening of the screws will try to pull in the legs but it can't because the mandrel restrains it. This will keep your coil end turns from closing down.

2. If winding counterclockwise (like on a right handed machine screw for spaced coild) leave the machine screw in coil and barely snug the screws down, then bend the legs at 90° along side of the deck and hold them there while tightening the screws. This will keep the screwhead from pushing the leg toward the coil so your coil end turns won't open up.

Hope this makes sense.

Yup, I get what you mean. I did something like that when putting the 10 wrap (!) build I have in it now. I put 2 90 degree bends in the legs so they would line up with the screws.

 

[cj081283]

I finally see the magic of the rba section. I was pretty sure I had too much wicking originally but it worked out pretty well in the end. Though it'll be hard to replicate lol but I did I think about 6 wraps of 26 gauge around a 7/64 bit and it came out to .85 and I tried running it around 20-24 and it was spit city. So I just said screw it and I decided to just throw it up to 35 watts, it it doesn't do it still ill just throw the stock coil back in...and lo and behold the flavor and vapor I'm getting is amazing, no leaking, and its nice.

Good thing too cause I only have the original and I wasnt too fond of the 1.2 vertical coil it came with and I've been tempting smelling cigs everywhere to smoke one but not now.

 

[ashtrayogdc]

I finally see the magic of the rba section. I was pretty sure I had too much wicking originally but it worked out pretty well in the end. Though it'll be hard to replicate lol but I did I think about 6 wraps of 26 gauge around a 7/64 bit and it came out to .85 and I tried running it around 20-24 and it was spit city. So I just said screw it and I decided to just throw it up to 35 watts, it it doesn't do it still ill just throw the stock coil back in...and lo and behold the flavor and vapor I'm getting is amazing, no leaking, and its nice.

Good thing too cause I only have the original and I wasnt too fond of the 1.2 vertical coil it came with and I've been tempting smelling cigs everywhere to smoke one but not now.

Right on! Once you get the wicking just right the version 1 is bad mama jama. I build a twisted 28 gauge around a 1/8 drill bit. Pretty close to a 3mm id. Vape it at 20 watts all day never a dry hit even when I go hard on it.

ETA oh ya I do 5 wraps and comes out to .7 ohms every time. I think I got that build from Cigatron, perfect for me at the 20 watts because I don't like my vape too hot.

 

[cigatron]

Love my V1 rbas. I've moved on to temp control these days. 24g Titanium builds in the STminis now.....vaping bliss!

 

[ashtrayogdc]

Love my V1 rbas. I've moved on to temp control these days. 24g Titanium builds in the STminis now.....vaping bliss!

Sweet. I have an ipv3 li on the way but am getting 28 gauge tempered nickel. I ordered from lightning vapes and they didn't have the titatnium. Any suggestions for a good STM build with 28 gauge nickel?

ETA I'm also getting a velocity clone from fasttech. Will be my first dripper and also first time building TC coils. I know that I will have to be making dual coils for that RDA. Do you have any suggestions for using the nickel with that also?

 

[cigatron]

Sweet. I have an ipv3 li on the way but am getting 28 gauge tempered nickel. I ordered from lightning vapes and they didn't have the titatnium. Any suggestions for a good STM build with 28 gauge nickel?

ETA I'm also getting a velocity clone from fasttech. Will be my first dripper and also first time building TC coils. I know that I will have to be making dual coils for that RDA. Do you have any suggestions for using the nickel with that also?

28g Ni200, 8 (slightly spaced), 3mm id, .11 ohms. It'll be a tight fit and you may have to bend the legs to get a good fit. With Ni you can't have the turns touching or they will short out. Here's the steamegine coil calculator link with the above mentioned coil data inserted.

Coil wrapping | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators

Your dripper may have an airflow option for single coil. Most do these days. Tc sometimes doesn't play well with dual coils.

Good luck

 

[ashtrayogdc]

28g Ni200, 8 (slightly spaced), 3mm id, .11 ohms. It'll be a tight fit and you may have to bend the legs to get a good fit. With Ni you can't have the turns touching or they will short out. Here's the steamegine coil calculator link with the above mentioned coil data inserted.

Coil wrapping | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators

Your dripper may have an airflow option for single coil. Most do these days. Tc sometimes doesn't play well with dual coils.

Good luck

No that's the thing with the velocity it's meant for dual coils. I mean, it's doable but not meant for it. Guess I'll just say screw it for TC with the RDA. The IPV3 li can read down to .05 with the TC setting so I think I will try a 5 wrap and see what that gets me. Thx for the tips.