I know this is an old post I just bought the kangertech minisub tank yesterday and decided I was going to clean it and change the rubber colors after first use and I let the glass soak in hot water tried everything. I seen where someone said use a razor blade to crack the seal, I didnt use the blade instead I tried my pinkie finger nail and it cracked the glass very fast. Finished breaking it off with a wrench. Luckily it had a replacement pryax glass with it. Now the glass comes off effortlessly. Its redicilous how tight kangertech has the glass hooked onto the tip connector. Another thing I noticed is there is a rubber piece thats supposed to be on the air flow base. It was somehow stuck inside on the very bottom pryex glass.I had no idea it was supposed to even go on the air flow base until assembling the extra glass after the first one broke. Overall the glass is very weak and im afraid to even twist on it anymore. Do not believe this tank should be worth 45$ it shouldnt be that difficult to disassemble a damn tank. If it had not came with an extra pyrex glass I would be one ...... off s.o.b. just thought I would share so in case someone is wanting to buy this tank.
Kanger Sub Tank Mini --- How the Heck do you get the glass off to properly clean this beast?
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I dropped a 2 day old Kanger Mini tank last night and the glass broke. Only part of it came off so I went to a local store to get new glass and ask for help removing what was left.
That bugger was on there good and the only way it was coming off was to smash the rest of the glass. It was sealed extremely well - almost fused to the gaskets. New glass went on with no problem at all, but I think it would be pretty hard to remove the glass without breaking/cracking the glass. Of course, it could just be that I am a dummy!
That bugger was on there good and the only way it was coming off was to smash the rest of the glass. It was sealed extremely well - almost fused to the gaskets. New glass went on with no problem at all, but I think it would be pretty hard to remove the glass without breaking/cracking the glass. Of course, it could just be that I am a dummy!
I cant get it off at all without the WD40 or W5 silicone-oil that is transparent odourless non-toxic water repellent.Do not know if the WD40 is non-toxic but I give it a good wash with dish soap and hot water and steep it in lot's of hot water and rinse with lot of cold water just to be safe.The first subtanks ware to loss and the class slip off and you wood loss all the E-liquid in the tankI dropped a 2 day old Kanger Mini tank last night and the glass broke. Only part of it came off so I went to a local store to get new glass and ask for help removing what was left.
That bugger was on there good and the only way it was coming off was to smash the rest of the glass. It was sealed extremely well - almost fused to the gaskets. New glass went on with no problem at all, but I think it would be pretty hard to remove the glass without breaking/cracking the glass. Of course, it could just be that I am a dummy!
so I don't know if it is better the way it is
.But I hop you get it all worked out.
I will rarely have to change them and apparently they come off easier with time. I would switch to different tanks before I pulled out the WD40. Nasty stuff and I would assume not a good choice for vaping in any amount.I cant get it off at all without the WD40 or W5 silicone-oil that is transparent odourless non-toxic water repellent.Do not know if the WD40 is non-toxic but I give it a good wash with dish soap and hot water and steep it in lot's of hot water and rinse with lot of cold water just to be safe.The first subtanks ware to loss and the class slip off and you wood loss all the E-liquid in the tank
@chris37643 All I do is take a hard plastic card like a library card and wedge it between the glass and metal then just press it into it while you rotate it around the tank like your cutting a the skin of an orange to get it ready to peel it. Works like a charm every time. Something to that effect. I cant think clearly enough to word it otherwise cause I just worked a 15 hr. day. Hope that helps.
The machine oil used in manufacturing is a lot more toxic than WD40 but as I say W5 silicone-oil is not toxic so they say. It has to be washed so it's a moot point.
My own new Kanger Subtank plus also was stuck as tightly as a...well, nevermind that. In addition to that it had started leaking. Even though I prefer to dismantle everything prior to cleaning, I had given up on this one on doing that. Same as I had given up on Aspire Atlantis for a similar reason: the damn pyrex glass would not come off. With Kanger Subtank plus the dilemma is less grave as it is about vacuum, or about o-rings being attached to the glass itself. With Aspire Atlantis it is worse as the metal teeth that is bent against the glass will shatter it if you try to twist and pull. However, stuck = stuck no matter what the reason is.
I followed the advices given here, with damn hot water (boilingly hot, in my case) in a mug, where the tank is filled up and covered with it. After some minutes I tried to pull, but it just never gave in with this method either (using rubber gloves). Funny thing is that I have always been able to twist and turn the glass around, but it has never moved even the slightest direction towards coming off the metal cylinder framework. So what to do? I tried to use my pinky, then thumb, pressing against the chimney-pipe, while pulling and twisting with my other hand. That at least showed that the glass was willing to move just a tiny little. So, scrap the pinky and thumb, bring on a screwdriver! With a solid screwdriver it worked! Instead of using my finger to press against the chimney-pipe this one made it possible to apply way more pressure. I did not harm the pyrex glass, but it was already dented on the top rim (which probably explains the leak). I replaced all the o-rings and the pyrex glass, used E-liquid as lubricant when installing the new glass. Works like a charm now. Comes off when I need it to, and no leaking whatsoever. Ahhhh, bliss! Feels like getting something out that has been stuck in between your teeth for way too long. Fantastic! That reminds me of pubic...ah, nevermind that.
I followed the advices given here, with damn hot water (boilingly hot, in my case) in a mug, where the tank is filled up and covered with it. After some minutes I tried to pull, but it just never gave in with this method either (using rubber gloves). Funny thing is that I have always been able to twist and turn the glass around, but it has never moved even the slightest direction towards coming off the metal cylinder framework. So what to do? I tried to use my pinky, then thumb, pressing against the chimney-pipe, while pulling and twisting with my other hand. That at least showed that the glass was willing to move just a tiny little. So, scrap the pinky and thumb, bring on a screwdriver! With a solid screwdriver it worked! Instead of using my finger to press against the chimney-pipe this one made it possible to apply way more pressure. I did not harm the pyrex glass, but it was already dented on the top rim (which probably explains the leak). I replaced all the o-rings and the pyrex glass, used E-liquid as lubricant when installing the new glass. Works like a charm now. Comes off when I need it to, and no leaking whatsoever. Ahhhh, bliss! Feels like getting something out that has been stuck in between your teeth for way too long. Fantastic!
That reminds me of pubic...ah, nevermind that.
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I had the same issue, where the glass would spin but there was no way to get off it off the SS part. My solution (bear in mind I'm right-handed) :
1. Make sure your right-hand thumb nail is short
2. Firmly hold the glass part in your left hand
3. Put your right-hand thumb nail at the bottom of the stainless steel part and start pushing (right where it gets stuck between the glass and stainless steel)
4. Increase the pressure until it pops out (the glass, not your nail)
If you feel like you're putting too much pressure on the glass, I guess you have to look for another technique If it's slipping, try a vape band or something grippy.
1. Make sure your right-hand thumb nail is short
2. Firmly hold the glass part in your left hand
3. Put your right-hand thumb nail at the bottom of the stainless steel part and start pushing (right where it gets stuck between the glass and stainless steel)
4. Increase the pressure until it pops out (the glass, not your nail)
If you feel like you're putting too much pressure on the glass, I guess you have to look for another technique
If it's slipping, try a vape band or something grippy.
I have this tank and so far I'm happy. I did have trouble trying to take the glass away though but eventually I done it. Now I have a new problem. I put it all back together and the glass doesn't sit completely flush with the rings and the other parts.. I tried and tried and it still doesn't sit right. However it doesn't leak, but I'm still a bit worried it'll just break up or something.. Any ideas? Should I be worried?
This is exactly what I do, except I use the base of a toothbrush handle to push the metal tube.I had the same issue, where the glass would spin but there was no way to get off it off the SS part. My solution (bear in mind I'm right-handed) :
1. Make sure your right-hand thumb nail is short
2. Firmly hold the glass part in your left hand
3. Put your right-hand thumb nail at the bottom of the stainless steel part and start pushing (right where it gets stuck between the glass and stainless steel)
4. Increase the pressure until it pops out (the glass, not your nail)
If you feel like you're putting too much pressure on the glass, I guess you have to look for another technique
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Not really related to the main topic here, with the stuck pyrex glass, but still related to the tank:
This tank has fallen out of my favor, and that is related to its lacking design when it comes to leakage. The bottom o-ring does not manage to contain liquid for very long. It is supposed to cushion and seal tight by accepting pressure from the pyrex glass directly above. It does not do do this well. There are other tank-designs out there, where the o-ring is much thicker and rounder in shape, more like a ring that you can wear around your finger (as an example), where the design is that it is pressed in against the inner or outer sides of the pyrex glass. For example: the brilliant TFV4 Sub-Ohm Tank, from SMOK. Kanger Sub Tank/Sub Tank Plus bottom o-ring is designed differently, and is too thin and flimsy. Result: often starts to leak.
This tank has fallen out of my favor, and that is related to its lacking design when it comes to leakage. The bottom o-ring does not manage to contain liquid for very long. It is supposed to cushion and seal tight by accepting pressure from the pyrex glass directly above. It does not do do this well. There are other tank-designs out there, where the o-ring is much thicker and rounder in shape, more like a ring that you can wear around your finger (as an example), where the design is that it is pressed in against the inner or outer sides of the pyrex glass. For example: the brilliant TFV4 Sub-Ohm Tank, from SMOK. Kanger Sub Tank/Sub Tank Plus bottom o-ring is designed differently, and is too thin and flimsy. Result: often starts to leak.
Like Darryl Licht mentioned about a year ago, if you're having trouble getting the glass off, put it in the freezer for 10 to 15 minutes. the glass will come off easily. Clean everything thoroughly, then soak the rings with eliquid before putting the glass back on.
Don't screw the base on too tight, sounds like you've put too much pressure on it and ruined it. Just put a new ring in that's covered with liquid, and gently screw the base onto the tank: no leaks whatsoever.
The easy way. Remove the atomize head. Start the tank portion back on the base but stop as soon as it is enguaged well with the threads. Now put the base down on a table or other non maring hard surface. Grab only the glass portion & push down hard. It will slip down a little, unscrew the base & then the glass will slip right off.
Heat expands the orings, and the juice should help slip right off
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