Now I understand , thank you I really appreciate your time I'll definitely be sticking with vaping thanks a lot I feel much safer now
Batterys question
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Please also keep in mind that, for the Predator 228, both the product page (on the Wismec official website) and the user manual clearly state that the discharge current of your batteries should be above 25 amps.
I'll add this, a little more information than needed but it is essential to understand.
Battery Configurations:
Single Battery - Li-ion Batteries voltage rating on their wrappers are "Nominal" voltage, Li-ion batteries most times operate between 3.0 low charge to 4.2v full charge, with a median plateau of operation between 3.5 to 3.9v where they stay at this charge level the longest, and two critical voltages need to be taken into account, 2.5v lowest, going below this voltage the electrolyte can dissolve the copper in the battery into the solution, thus leading to internal microshorts, which is dangerous, then going above a voltage of 4.2v, overcharging a battery can be very disastrous causing them to vent, and/or burst.
Multiple Battery "Series" - In this configuration, similar to a Maglite Flashlight, first battery negative and next battery positive are in contact or wired to make contact, etc thus making a series electrical connection. In this configuration, voltage is equal to voltage of a single battery X number of batteries in the series, amps and Mah stay the same as a single battery (this is the configuration 99% all high powered regulated mods use)
Multiple Battery "Parallel" - in this configuration, the batteries are setup side by side, all positives up while all negatives are down, or wired to make this happen, example the Eleaf iStick100W uses this configuration. In this configuration, voltage is the same as a single battery, Mah is X Number of Batteries, while in theory amps are X number of batteries as well, in practicality, battery 1 = 100% CDR, Battery 2 +50% CDR, Battery 3 +50% CDR, etc.
Multiple Battery Parallel-Series (this is a new configuration, example the Wismec RX300) - This is a hybrid configuration, 2 Series battery sleds wired in parallel, gaining strengths and benefits of a series and a parallel configuration. With 4 batteries in the whole setup, each sled (2 of them) is in series with 2 batteries each (gain voltage X 2, 6.0v to 8.4v operating voltage, same mah and CDR of a single battery), then the 2 sleds are wired in parallel (voltage of a single battery sled, Mah of 2 batteries together technically, and the second sled adds +50% more CDR)
Regulated mods circuitry and basics of how they function. Most control boards can have either a Bucking Circuit, Boosting Circuit, or both. A Bucking Circuit operates as the PCB says I need 4.3v to reach XXX watts, the buck circuit pulls power from the batteries, that voltage maybe 8.4v, the buck circuit throttles that voltage down to 4.3v as requested and shunts the rest into control board power or into a resistor as dead voltage, or a digital potentiometer. A boosting circuit functions in the opposite aspect, PCB needs 4.3v again as above, but available voltage is say only 3.8v, a boost circuit is then activated which pulls raw amps from the batteries, converts that to the voltage needed to reach 4.3v signal, as the desparity between needed voltage and actual voltage in the batteries available becomes greater, the more amps are pulled from the batteries to compensate. You would see Bucking circuits more common on a series mod, where a boosting circuit would be more common on a single battery or parallel mod.
Where a mechanical/unregulated we use (Volts/Ohms=Amps) and suggest doing the calculation at full fresh charge of 4.2v thus highest amps are at highest volts available, with a regulated, the amps are lowest at full charge and increase as batteries get lower on their charge, thus we use the formula (watts set/lowest voltage=amps, though for more safety we suggest the mod control board efficiency be taken into account, thus watts set/lowest voltage/mod chipset efficiency=max amps).
Something that is not often covered in these threads is that DC-DC converters are not 100% efficient.
There are losses and these should not be ignored when calculation loads on cells/batteries.
Another aspect of electronics engineering are margins.
You should not be running a device(cell/batteries too) at 100% of its specifications.
There are losses and these should not be ignored when calculation loads on cells/batteries.
Another aspect of electronics engineering are margins.
You should not be running a device(cell/batteries too) at 100% of its specifications.
That's certainly true, and it's good to bring it up specifically. However, you'll notice that the calculations I posted earlier included a 90% efficiency factor, so it was addressed in those numbers.
I skim read the thread as I didn't know how long I had access to the forum with the current server issues.
Details like that are always worth repeating... well that's my story and I'm sticking to it!
Yes... but a lot of people just assume that vaping at up to 60 watts per 20 amp battery is necessarily always perfectly fine on a regulated mod, and then they usually tend to forget that if you chain vape at something below those 60 watts per battery the 25 amp Sony VTC5A could still be a much better choice despite that you vape below those 60 watts. So these kinds of numbers are not set in stone. (My RX300 gets warm if I chain vape on it, even at only 15 watts per battery, and this also happens regardless of the fact that the temperature in my room right now is more than a few degrees higher than normal because of what the weather is like.)
There simply aren't any batteries that will safely let you go up to 228w. Using true 30-amp batteries you're good up to about 180w staying within the cdr, but the battery runtime will be terrible.
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You still have not answered why you want to use such high wattage. If 80W is harsh, why do you think another tank would a be better vape if you could use it at 175W?
Exactly, why? The vape would be pretty uncomfortable at 175w. But to each his own. Just be careful.[emoji106]
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I vape at 228 watts on freshly charged dual VTC5As in my Purge Mods with extension. (But I wouldn't try that with a Predator.)
What's the cutoff voltage and the chip efficiency? Take those into account and you're almost certainly above 32 amps per cell.
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He's talking a tube mech in a series stacked configuration.
8.4v @
228watts
He's running a 0.3 to 0.31 at 27.143amps, a little on the higher side but still well within what Mooch claims the VTC5A is capable of, especially on a claimed competition mech mod the Purge mod claims to be, and this not even taking into account if he is figuring voltage drop and even lower resistance than what an Ohms Law Calculator is saying.
@dripster O/T was about a regulated mod, not a mech, 2 completely different animals when it comes to amp drain and what is safe, as a regulated uses watts and lowest voltage, not highest voltage and resistance.
228watts/6.0v=38amps/90% DC to DC efficiency=42.22amps <- Regulated
compared to
8.4v/0.3=28amps <-Mech/Unregulated
8.4v @
228watts
He's running a 0.3 to 0.31 at 27.143amps, a little on the higher side but still well within what Mooch claims the VTC5A is capable of, especially on a claimed competition mech mod the Purge mod claims to be, and this not even taking into account if he is figuring voltage drop and even lower resistance than what an Ohms Law Calculator is saying.
@dripster O/T was about a regulated mod, not a mech, 2 completely different animals when it comes to amp drain and what is safe, as a regulated uses watts and lowest voltage, not highest voltage and resistance.
228watts/6.0v=38amps/90% DC to DC efficiency=42.22amps <- Regulated
compared to
8.4v/0.3=28amps <-Mech/Unregulated
Well that makes a difference. I still wouldn't feel very comfortable running a stacked mech with such a load. Why can't people simply run rigs that will accommodate their builds safely?
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Give me a toaster, gauze, and duct tape. Good to go![emoji1]
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