3 Samsung 25r5's in one day? kanger nebox
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I'm thinking it's a problem with the mod. I have a Kanger subox that killed one of my 25r's. I forgot and left the battery in the unpowered mod for about a month. It seems that circuit board uses a small amount of power even when the device is turned off. When I checked the battery it showed about 0.5v so that one got taped up and sent to the "disposal" box.
As for the charger, I don't have any experience with the D4 but I have a Nitecore Intellicharger i4 and I have noticed on occasion that it will show full charge on a battery that is not fully charged. It doesn't do it all the time but I have noticed it more than once. I still keep that charger at work for emergencies but I now use an XTAR VP4 as my main charger. I have had zero problems with the XTAR.
As for the charger, I don't have any experience with the D4 but I have a Nitecore Intellicharger i4 and I have noticed on occasion that it will show full charge on a battery that is not fully charged. It doesn't do it all the time but I have noticed it more than once. I still keep that charger at work for emergencies but I now use an XTAR VP4 as my main charger. I have had zero problems with the XTAR.
Poor Kanger, they don't have the best luck with building mods. I say this as I'm sucking on a Kanger Dripbox, it's working good for now, but I know it's not going to be of the best quality. Many in the industry aren't fans of Kanger, for a lot of reasons.
I know Randy, and have made many purchases from him, he's top notch and doesn't sell junk! I'd really lean towards a problem with the mod myself.
I know Randy, and have made many purchases from him, he's top notch and doesn't sell junk! I'd really lean towards a problem with the mod myself.
All the typical regulated mods out there these days draw a bit of current when they are off. Some builders who make box mods use a switch that actually interrupts the battery connection which avoids that.
I have two simple Xtar chargers which have never let me down. These are dedicated Li-ion chargers and will handle them if they go low in voltage if you want to be able to do that. Go too low and you'll damage the battery, but I have over the years brought a couple back from around 2V and they were fine.
They do however also draw a bit of battery current when they are disconnected from power. It may be because they have battery powered USB output ports though, not sure if all chargers do this.
I'm amazed by the number of people who don't realize that virtually ALL regulated mods do this. If you turn your mod on/off with the fire button then it's really ALWAYS ON. It only goes into a manual sleep mode, but the chip is always powered. If it wasn't, how would it know you pressed the fire button to turn it on?
The ONLY mods that can be completely shut down are ones with a mechanical switch to turn them off. Something that breaks the circuit to the chip. But if you're relying on a button that is soldered to the chip to turn it on then the chip is always powered on to some degree.
Think of it like your television. If it wasn't partially powered on all of the time how would it know you pressed a button on your remote?
Dedicated hardware is how most TVs know you pressed a button on the remote when off, just like a mobile phone.
My Wrecker G2 uses an extremely negligible amount of battery life when sitting unused, I have others that use a noticeable amount. It's all dependent on the device.
My Wrecker G2 uses an extremely negligible amount of battery life when sitting unused, I have others that use a noticeable amount. It's all dependent on the device.
Yes, I realized that was the case as soon as I found the battery was drained. I also realized that this would apply to all regulated mods, not just the Kanger. (Like I said, I forgot there was a battery in it. I know it was my own dang fault for forgetting to remove the battery.) What worried me was that it drained that much in just 3-4 weeks. I wouldn't have thought it would use that much power on standby. I have left other mods idle for a week or so and didn't notice much of a drop in the battery power. I was also concerned that it was able to drain the battery down to less than 1 volt, ruining the battery. I guess that the discharge protection doesn't work unless the mod is actually turned "on". At least not on that mod.
Hey again guys. I did some homework with a digital multimeter. Now mind that this is a 5 or 6 year old Gardner Bender that you can pick up at just about any home supply box store. When the Nitecore Digicharger D4 says the battery is charged (both Samsung 25r5's and Sony vtc4's from RTD) at 4.2 volts the GB multimeter says they are at 4.13 volts. In the nebox they have 4 bars. After use I took it out of Nebox at 1 bar on the oled screen the multimeter says it has 3.64 volts. Out of curiosity I decided to run it all the way down in the nebox. Zero bars and blinking battery, finally won't hit altogether, the multimeter reads 3.46 volts on each. Then put into the Nitecore D4 they read 3.52 volts. Seems like the nebox isn't reading correctly but strange to me it cuts off at 3.52 (3.46 if you believe the multimeter). I have contacted the seller although maybe I should contact Kanger (awaiting an email I sent them weeks ago about what battery they recommend though no reply).
Depending on the watts you are vaping at, that could explain the mod cutting off early. If you are drawing enough power that it drops them below the cutoff voltage under load, some mods will cut off(which I think is a good thing). As for the charging, that isn't really that unusual. Most chargers say they will charge to "4.2v +/- 1%" That 1% would be 0.042 volts. Let's just use 0.04 to make it easy. To get a lithium cell to a resting voltage of 4.2v, it will have to be charged to slightly over 4.2v while on the charger. This can start to get dangerous. If a charger stops charging at 4.2v, the resting voltage may be around 4.15 volts(mine are always 4.15 or 4.16 when they come off the charger). Now, when you figure in the 4.2 +/- 1%, if the charger is only charging to 4.18v and they drop down a little when they come off the charger, seeing 4.13 as the resting voltage is easily within the realm of possible. These numbers also assume that the charger and the multimeter you are using to read them are perfectly accurate. Most multimeters are +/- 0.5%. When you add in the range on the multimeter, seeing 4.13v after popping them off the charger is totally possible. I wouldn't be concerned about that. I also wouldn't be too concerned about them coming out of the device when they are at 3.46v if you are running at higher wattages. This could be the slight inaccuracy of the board in the mod.
All that being said, if you are concerned about it, I wouldn't hesitate to contact the seller you purchased it from. It never hurts to ask.
All that being said, if you are concerned about it, I wouldn't hesitate to contact the seller you purchased it from. It never hurts to ask.
I will add a new thought, leaving the batt in the mod when you go to fire it, it is keeping your settings? So some batt volts go to memory. Always used to baffle me when I worked at a motorcycle shop that people left their batts hooked up for 6 months unused and expected no drain from their trip meter, clock, (dependng on bike) radio stations, GPS, just paralytic loss, heating/cooling, etc...
It's not a AA from Duracell.
It's not a AA from Duracell.
Yes the mod remembers the settings. 25 watts at 0.6 ohms. This is on a standard 0.5 ssocc coil from Kanger in non TC mode. Would you consider this high wattage? I have to use 3-4 fresh batteries a day at medium to light vaping. Don't have much time at work to use it. Even less time to change batteries. One tank of juice lasts almost all day.
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Just to be on the safe side, any 18650 li-on battery which is discharged below 2.5 volts should be discarded. Internal damage has most likely occurred (internal shorts). Do not try to charge and "revive" them.
That seems like a lot, but what's a day(8 your work day, 16 hour regular day, insomniac like me and have more like a 20 hour awake day), are you just off of smokes, so vaping alot, and what batteries?
When I just quit smokes I would drain 6 Vision Spinner 2 at 1600mah every day, at under 10 Watts. Now it's more like 3 of those.
OP stated 7-8ml a day/ 0.6ohm @ 22 watts
Something is really wrong with the batteries or device, I can easily vape 8ml @ 22w on a single Samsung 30Q using a Cloupor Mini+ or Apollo Reliant.
I can vape 20ml+ on my G2 with dual 30Qs.
So I was doing about 9 mils with 6x1600mah, with no paralytic loss, depending on his battery choice it seems in the normal range? Especially for a kangertech, which I hear tend to be a bit inefficient?
I don't believe those batteries are a true 1600mAh, could be wrong. They have circuitry, there has to be some paralytic loss.
25Rs are known to have good life, the 30Q isn't 4X better.
I can't see any device being that inefficient although it certainly appears to be.
Those Samsung's are 2500mah, 4 get you to 10000 mah and not far off of what I was doing with my spinners at 1.8 ohms.
I have done 0 battery tests on the spinners but all are say 1600mah, and would guess compared to the other batts I've used, assuming they were accurate, is close.
I have done 0 battery tests on the spinners but all are say 1600mah, and would guess compared to the other batts I've used, assuming they were accurate, is close.
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A 3.6v low-battery cutoff sounds high to me, but then I'm vaping at 12-14w. When my Evic VTC Mini locks because of a drained Samsung 30Q battery, my Xtar VC2 charger will read the battery at 3.0v.
This is what I'm thinking, it's a combination of the charger and early voltage cut off on the mod.
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