Vape Mail and the resulting aftermath...

[Liquidkam]

Just got this SX 350 mini M. It's been working beautifully sans a few issues that I am sure are user induced.

First off I will tell you that the Lemo 2 that came in at the same time is Freaking awesome. I have a Kanger Sub Lemo drop and now the Lemo 2. The Lemo 2 kicks ... I the airflow department. It's robust and easy as hell to fill. I put a 3mm coil in it and pancaked the wick. 9 wraps and it's coming in at .118 ohms. Awesome flavor production and nice thick vapor.

So I moved on to the Tugboat to see how Ni200 fairs in the rda world on this particular device. I went bananas with my coil and ended up with this monstrosity.



I twisted two strands of 28g Ni200 together with a drill and wrapped it 17 times. It comes in at .06 ohms. Performance wise it takes a while to ramp up but when it does it produces thick vapor but towards the hot side. Another thing is that the drip too gets hot really quickly. I'm running it 50J and have the temp cut off at 425F. The hot drip tip is one of the issues I mentioned. I vaped this thing bone dry and didn't get any burnt taste.

Then I moved on to the Lemo drop. The manual had an interesting coil method reccomended so I decided to go for it.





This one I wrapped about 10 times on a 3mm driver. Stuffed a small amount of additional cotton down inside like the manual suggested. The problem is that it gets stupid hot (the drop tip) stupid fast. I'm running it at 17J because this one is coming in at .365 ohms.

Short story long the device itself is working great. I just need to find the sweet spot with this Ni200 coil wise. Any tips in that department would be greatly appreciated.

At the end of it all the LEMO 2 and the Mini M seem like they were made for one another.

 

[Ryedan]

Looking good. Rock on Liquidkam

 

[Troy Noh]

that looks just sick

 

[Liquidkam]

Thanks fellas. I have been tweaking my builds and I have gotten a couple of them working much better now.

 

[Jugband]

Sweet set up!

 

[Fictitious Character]

Looking great. The M class is great.

 

[MidwestGuy]

Joining this thread ... I too thought this would be a pretty awesome setup, and so far it has been

 

[Liquidkam]

I have tried various RDAs on the Mini and yes they all work wonderfully. Vaped my mutation x dry and it showed a small amount of blackening between the two of the loose wrapped Ni200 coils but no burnt taste at all and went all the way until it said "dry Atomizer no liquid". Juiced it back up and tastes great no hint of a burnt flavor. Anyway I just keep going back to Lemo 2 on there because it works so well. Love this combination. If anyone is on the fence about the Mini M do it!!!!!

 

[Troy Noh]

I'm kicking myself for buying a Kanger subtank mini, when I could have bought a Lemo 2. I'm not one to bother with clearmizers and replacement heads. Rather just have a RTA and just rebuild when the coil need replacing

 

[Cloudmann]

My M class positively rocks with my Derringer. I generally like a 0.1 to 0.15 build and run her at 450 to 500 degrees. Get yourself a good, heat resistant drip tip. Makes a huge difference. Haven't picked up a Lemo 2 yet, but it's on my list. That build with the tuboat looks sick. Also love that vertical build. I did something similar with a Kanger nickel OCC coil rebuild and got it at 0.12 ohms with ni200. The vertical orientation of that coil made that atomizer head positively sing. This is going to be my default rebuild for the Subtank coils. Haven't tried it with the kanthal OCC heads, but I imagine the results will be just as positive.

 

[BraveNewWorld]

What are j's?

 

[jbok]

What are j's?

its for joules

 

[BraveNewWorld]

I guess at first you have to convert watts/volts to joules? I could deduce joules, but who would do that on a non technical application like a plug and play sx?
Do you like it? Are all temp protected chips using joules?

 

[Cloudmann]

A Joule is literally one watt of power (heat in this case) produced for one second. It's a measurement of work done. At the end of the day, it's a handy way to regulate the final temperature limitation range, nothing more or less. Works great, though.

 

[Liquidkam]

As far as the joules are concerned it only reads in Joules in temp control mode. When in power mode (no temp control) it displays in watts. So I think it was a way for the user to easily identify if they are in temp control mode or not. As far as the joules measurement and practical application is concerned - the reccomended build resistance for temp control and Ni200 is .095 for SXmini M. Which means when you build at that resistance you can safely and comfortably run up to 50J. So you just pick whatever is comfortable to you and you're in there.