best 5v mini usb pass through

[kc0cmp]

OK i mad a new one that is just running off the battery works well but no pass through so ill probably switch it later when im done testing. gonna start work on the tut.

It's charging at the same time as youre vaping plugged in, but probably dodges the possibility of direct draw from USB so yeah, the actual passthrough possibility if it existed is gone. Maybe I should note that you are drawing far more than the device (unplugged) could possibly produce 5v @ so odds are it's dropping to 3.7 or so when you vape...it'd actually be more efficient to either leave it plugged in for use @ 5v (gets closer to actually producing 5v) or use once charged @ 3.7..cause unplugged @ 3.7 it's going to drag the related circuitry down *trying* to achieve 5v and eventually pop it...or best case..never attain it but drain the battery faster trying.

This would make a hell of a 3.7v device, but i don't think it'll ever make 5v off the cord @ the atomizer...and i fear trying to wouldn't be good for the life of the device. That's why i suggested runnin one off the battery.

Worst case you've discovered a hell of a convenient 3.7v emergency battery thats cheap enough to be disposable when it dies...with a built in charge circuitry (protection for the battery) to boot...very not bad... I really gotta get one of these and explore some options. Odds are like every other 3.7v mod..the battery will quit producing usable vape long before it reaches the critical 2.7v "charge or die" threshold...but if i could find a place to tap the 3.7 and include the over discharge protection (which might be on the battery but woulda been cheaper to include in the circuitry) before the 5v circuitry..that'd be king...i say that because it very well might have kept producing longer (to the detriment of the battery) with the 5v circuitry stepping up the battery even after it was past the emergency stop area..but the circuitry would kill the battery first before you harmed it permanently.

Definately gotta get one of these and do a circuit trace on it...if the battery itself is protected, then damn..superdevice for the cost

 

[schism61]

I wonder what the diff is between the JS1-V3
And the JS1-V9

it says the V3 is for
For Motorola & HTC phone
And the V9 Is for
For Blackberry, Kyocera, LG, Motorola, Nokia, Palm, Samsung, & Sanyo cell phones

But They Both Use the MINI USB port so why did they make two models

Could the battery or Voltage be different ?

I know for a fact the Blackberry needs 5V to charge

 

[Dave Rickey]

So it's a Li-Poly flat pack, which makes sense. What are the dimensions on that PCB? For $12, it would be hard to get the internals and build your own much cheaper, I can see that board becoming the heart of many a mod for integrated pass-through and charging capability if it's small enough (looks like around 1 inch square, with a notch out of it).

--Dave

EDIT: If that thing has an integrated boost regulator pulling the 3.7V back up to 5V (which would make sense for a cell-phone backup charger), then it's likely that he's *always* working off the cell, even when it is plugged in. A flatpack that size should have about an 800mAh real capacity (roughly equivalent to the 18350's I've been working with), so it's within the range of possibility for it to supply that current (although running it off the cable would probably degrade the cell).

EDIT2: I see in the other cell-charger mod thread it's a 220mAh Li-Poly, but Li-Poly doesn't mind a 10C discharge so it's a wash. Yeah, I think it's really doing what he says it's doing. Cool.

 

[codfish124]

it vapes good lots of vapor not as much as a 6v mod but not burnt tast. my meter says 5v at the end what ever it drops to i really dont know.

the pc board is about 1"X1" i was thinking of getting a rechargable 3.7v battery and using this to charge it wile in the device.

if you figor out what all the stuff on the board do and want me to test let me know my last mod i made with one removable cover so i can get in there and test some stuff

 

[Dave Rickey]

Only thing I can think of would be to take an output voltage rating while vaping disconnected. I bet it stays up around 4.75V, 4.5V at worst. RC types push Li-Poly to 10C routinely, it really could dump the whole pack in 15 minutes or so without being strained.

Actually, I'm surprised the lighthounds never thought of this. Imagine a 10W spotlight fed off a flatpack the size of a book of matches (for about 2 minutes, but they've done worse with cylindrical cells). Or an industrial laser deathray in a package no bigger than a deck of cards.

--Dave

 

[codfish124]

this thing last all day off the charger about 6-7 hr wile im working off just the battery or off the 5v usb output. don't know why but last longer than my stock 801 battery

 

[Nuck]

To manage 5v even with a 801 would require that battery to pull 6.5C steady which would give about 9 minutes total vape time and thats for a total drain which you would never see. You could reasonable expect maybe 6 minutes if the bat is accurately rated which I've never seen. At an average of 5 second pulls thats a total of 72 pulls before the bat is done.

The other thing that I don't understand is that you are using the circuitry of the unit to boost the voltage. Every other battery pack Ive seen has currently limiting built in and this one claims it is only 450ma. Are you somehow bypassing the limit or is it not triggering?

Dave, you seem to be very knowledgeable in this area. What am I missing?

 

[Dave Rickey]

Well, because they're almost strictly OEM rather than retail products, flatpacks tend to have much more conservative ratings. We don't know his vaping habits, knowing how many ml he's going through would probably be more useful.

We pull 1-1.5A out of under-rated USB supplies all the time, so it wouldn't surprise me if a cheap RS part had current protection on the Honor System.

--Dave

 

[SmokinScott]

Thanks very much for the tutorial Codfish, it's appreciated.

 

[kc0cmp]

Only thing I can think of would be to take an output voltage rating while vaping disconnected. I bet it stays up around 4.75V, 4.5V at worst. RC types push Li-Poly to 10C routinely, it really could dump the whole pack in 15 minutes or so without being strained.

Actually, I'm surprised the lighthounds never thought of this. Imagine a 10W spotlight fed off a flatpack the size of a book of matches (for about 2 minutes, but they've done worse with cylindrical cells). Or an industrial laser deathray in a package no bigger than a deck of cards.

--Dave

Yeah the high mw laser would be mean for the 5 minutes you'd get out of it LOL..it is the basis of a great many micro devices...and it's *small* ..surprisingly so...if only cellphone batteries were dirt cheap..my chinese cell takes a 2400mAh 3.7v li-ion, and its not what i'd call big

 

[kRAM]

Just bought one of these and I'm in shock. I didn't expect it to be this small. Seeing from the video i expected it to be zippo sized but its smaller. Just curious do you push the button while its in your pocket? I'm a little scared I'll be pushing the button and wasting battery while not in use.

 

[codfish124]

i don't think i have pressed the button but then again it is in my pocket. the buttons i use have a long travel and a semi hard push so yes if it was in my pocket it could get pressed under the right condensations my mods have a safety shut off but this one. i was gonna use the black button and the light but the light only has 3 volts going to it.

 

[kRAM]

Last question hopefully. These are the two wires i need to solder and the one on the right is ground? h t t p://i884.photobucket.com/albums/ac49/unknown_craze/IMG_1332edit.jpg
Sorry don't have enough to put the pic directly

 

[codfish124]

oops it the left in that picture sorry

 

[JamieJ]

What a great creative idea!

 

[kRAM]

Just finished making my first mod following your guide and I'm very happy with it. Not hard at all to make but i do wish my atomizer connector was on straight like yours. Its probably turned out that way because i used an RCA connector which works but i just couldn't get it to fit right. Thanks for all the help.
h ttp://i884.photobucket.com/albums/ac49/unknown_craze/IMG_1334.jpg
h ttp://i884.photobucket.com/albums/ac49/unknown_craze/IMG_1337.jpg

*I hate not being able to post direct links -____-

 

[codfish124]

looks good how dose it work for you? my first one is strait my 2nd is not so good this is the easiest mod i have made to-date. if you have a soldering iron any mod is pretty easy hook up atty to switch with a battery but this one is a complex mod made easy

 

[SmokinScott]

Codfish, what did you use for the switch?

What's it rated for?

 

[codfish124]

just the radio shack switches SPST 0.5-Amp Momentary Switch (2-Pack) - RadioShack.com

 

[mycro]

Codfish,
I picked up one of these digipower chargers at RadioShack and messing with it this evening and I
just did a little experiment-cause I kind of like that there is already a button-so why add another switch?
I soldered the wires from atty connector straight to where the ground and pos wires that are connected to that switch are-right to their solder blobs on the bottom of the board-and tested (with an atty-cause I don't have a volt tester)-
it worked really good!!
I don't think the flashlight came on tho after i did this-I was gonna check it again to post about it, but my quicky solder job came apart-anyways I plan on taking that little light off anyhow.
I am gonna go with leaving this black button as my switch, cause it worked, and it saves me making another hole in the case!