BOTTOM FEEDERS= a place for everything modified and/or custom made

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Alexander Mundy

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With the Sanyo NCR20700B and 6-1/2 ml used with a .7 ohm coil battery resting voltage is 3.89V, loaded is 3.69V with 3.6V at the coil. Starting voltages were 4.15V unloaded, 3.78V loaded, 3.68V at coil. This is odd unless there is a drastic drop in internal resistance during the first cycle. Internal resistance calculates at .068 ohms first use and .038 ohms 6-1/2 ml later. Normally the internal resistance goes up as the battery is depleted, that is what drops the voltage you get from it. I have never checked one right out of the box so perhaps this is normal. I'll keep tabs on it for a few cycles.
 

Drillerrt

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Secret squonker. :rolleyes: Not pretty but very functional.

Coppervape BF Split RDTA came in last week, and I think I found the perfect atty for the windowless squonker conversion of iStick 100. For those who don't know, when you squonk the Split you are refilling the ~1.5 ml tank, so squonking is infrequent, about six times only for each full bottle of juice. Other functional benefits are being able to see when you are running low in the tank, and getting the consistent hit of an RDTA rather than the ups and downs of a typical BF RDA.


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Did you convert this yourself?
 

Drillerrt

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Yes. Quite straightforward with this one because there's plenty of room under the 510, and the batteries are wired in parallel. Nice to put a neglected mod to good use.
What bf pin did you use? That looks like something I might be willing to try to do.
 

EddieAdams

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Good job @EddieAdams... Try putting a 1/2 - 3/4" spacer under the bottle and shorten your tube. I had to do that a while back when I had the 18650 Peko. Wasn't as thick as that, but it made the OCD in my subside!!
Thanks. Good idea. Thought of that but, in the immediate couldn't find anything to use as the spacer. Wondering how well that thin wire and spring will hold up sub-ohming. Probably collapse the spring or melt it into the plastic.....Haha

FDA BOC
 

muzichead

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I should've checked this thread 1st... Oh well...

The catfish did a BF conversion of the Vertex a little over a year ago... Most guys complained of leaking and oxidizing contacts and basically wasn't too keen on having to take it apart to clean it once a week. Recently he has changed it over to a VariTube 510 and the maintenance is better it seems... Now it seems it needs to be taken apart and cleaned every couple weeks with some reported leakage from the new 510 as well... Personally I never bought one because it was too much of a hassle to do a bottle fill in it much less having to clean it once a week!!

Looks good though...
 

turbocad6

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someone sent me one of these already converted to try to come up with a way to improve the firing button action, which to me is the real biggest problem I seen with this thing... the button floats in a bore and all electrical contact must come from between the button and it's bore which is where the contact problems start... I tried a few things but eventually gave up, pretty crappy button/circuit design on these things. only way I could come up with to make it work reliable would have been to put a dNA chip in it :p I'm not a huge fan of mechs to begin with but poorly designed mechs I just can't even get into at all :)
 

TheWestPole

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someone sent me one of these already converted to try to come up with a way to improve the firing button action, which to me is the real biggest problem I seen with this thing... the button floats in a bore and all electrical contact must come from between the button and it's bore which is where the contact problems start... I tried a few things but eventually gave up, pretty crappy button/circuit design on these things. only way I could come up with to make it work reliable would have been to put a dNA chip in it :p I'm not a huge fan of mechs to begin with but poorly designed mechs I just can't even get into at all :)

I have three of them and appreciate the construction. Your point about the button/bore is well taken, but I find regular cleanup with a metal finishing pad keeps it firing consistent and strong. What can I say. I like mechs, and I like the unpopular Vertex Triple.
 

TheWestPole

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I should've checked this thread 1st... Oh well...

The catfish did a BF conversion of the Vertex a little over a year ago... Most guys complained of leaking and oxidizing contacts and basically wasn't too keen on having to take it apart to clean it once a week. Recently he has changed it over to a VariTube 510 and the maintenance is better it seems... Now it seems it needs to be taken apart and cleaned every couple weeks with some reported leakage from the new 510 as well... Personally I never bought one because it was too much of a hassle to do a bottle fill in it much less having to clean it once a week!!

Looks good though...

Yeah, Vertex is always going to need contact cleaning. I've been using another as a triple for months.

Came up with a bottle mount method for this which makes refills quick and easy. Made a brass fitting to mate the bottom of the 510 pin and a 14 ga needle. Needle catches and slides into the bottle tube easily to about 1/4" past the cap, pinching the seal with the bottle cap from the inside and outside. No leaks there. Up top I have three o-rings around the center pin inside the 510. Will see about leaking there.


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turbocad6

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one thing I did consider was to bore out the button hole in the aluminum body and make a copper bushing that presses tightly into the aluminum body so the bore would be copper walls in contact with the copper button instead of aluminum to copper. aluminum just oxidizes so quickly and makes for such a poor contact material, but in the end I didn't even bother as the loose fit of a button in a bore just didn't seem like it would ever be really reliable. don't mean to knock it if you like it, everyone likes something different I guess... personally I just wanted to chuck that mod out the window but I couldn't because it wasn't even mine :D
 

TheWestPole

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@TheWestPole
So do you have to take the whole bottle out to do a refill or do you take the top cap off and pull the guts out with it as in the pic above?

Whole bottle. Could take the cap off but I didn't want that. Too fiddly and messy. This is easy. Only downside is you have to pop out a battery to get a finger in there to remove the bottle.

May do another with a hole in the bottom plate and different shaped squonk window so I could grip the bottle from the outside and pull it out the bottom without removing the bottom plate. Would want the needle longer then for reinserting.
 
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TheKiddVapes

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    tmp_18472-20170104_172603-1637196366.jpg
    I need some help with a REO Mini I just received from a bundle I purchased. I know there's some vapers on here that will know what size battery I need from looking at it but if you need more pictures just let me know.

    If this is the wrong place moderators let me know and I'll move it, I apologize in advance if it's in the wrong place.
     

    Doffy

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    View attachment 627239 I need some help with a REO Mini I just received from a bundle I purchased. I know there's some vapers on here that will know what size battery I need from looking at it but if you need more pictures just let me know.

    If this is the wrong place moderators let me know and I'll move it, I apologize in advance if it's in the wrong place.
    REO mini v1 takes 14500. V2 takes 18490/18500

    Would need a side shot next to something. But if battery compartment is over 18mm then it is v2

    Sent from my LG-H815 using Tapatalk
     
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