I try anything as soon as I can. I've seen the same behavior with prebuilt Nickle Kanger coils. The only real wattage adjustment I get is of course in Kanthal Power mode.
DNA 200 Watt
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I try anything as soon as I can. I've seen the same behavior with prebuilt Nickle Kanger coils. The only real wattage adjustment I get is of course in Kanthal Power mode.
OK - I am with you now.
Mac, check your PMs and we can go from their if you would like.
Regards,
George
im still trying to find a good curve for ss. ive been using the the tcrs from wire wizard on steam engine. im just wondering if its so low of a value (.0010) the dna struggles to use it. Ti on the other hand, works good to pretty good with some plot point adjustments, IMO.
As for my tablet, i just got it yesterday. it's a chuwi Hi8 dual OS. comes with win 10. $100 over at gearbest. i like it. i got it specifically for escribe. and sum web stuff.
Ah, so the stock coils are welded somewhere? they are NOT solid SS wire?
Correct. That is what I heard anyway, but I would still think that it is way too big a spike/trough cycle at temp for 2 short nickel tails and there must be a way to edit it out of the csv. Heard guys say they were working on something but never saw results. I get a nice steady climb to temp and you can feel it cycle a bit, but my vape is fairly steady and flavorful without over heating my coils. Been running the original .25ohm coils that came with my two crowns since I bought them on sale at ecig.com weeks/month ago.
I've never been a "coil" guy, I've been using rebuildable tanks for so long - you take for granted rewicking.. I've had my crown 1 day, using the 0.25ohm coil, second tank today, and the first juice is still so strong... The flavor from the first tank is still there in the second tank of a completely different juice. I hate to pull this coil and either rebuild it or attempt to rewick it after only 2 tank full's of juice. But I may not have a choice
On my disposable type Kanger subtank heads (no real use for them with me) I rinsed them,slung out most of the water and let them dry while I used the next one.
I was going to try that, didn't know if that would mess up the coil? More specifically the "cotton" in the coil.
I wonder how they put these together. I took apart a 0.25 coil head and the SS portion is indeed parallel with an obviously machine welded single wire tail on each end. There is a cotton square covering each hole and a metal circular sleeve over that cotton inside the coil head.Then small square sheets of cotton covering the inner diameter of the head and finally the coil in the center. To rebuild I think I will have to wrap the outside of the coil place it in the coil head and fill the rest as necessary. Seems like a lot of trouble (why not use the RBA instead) but will be interesting.
Does the Crown have an RBA?
The last Kanger "square" head I rebuilt I welded 26 gauge Ni200 legs on 28 gauge Ni200 and made it vertical. Still it didn't perform as well as the RBA heads.
The pieces are pressed together but not so tightly that you cant get them apart with a little effort. There is a thin layer of cotton between the inside and outside shields (this isn't quite the same type of cotton I'm used to it's more like flimsy cotton cloth) and then the organic cotton around the coils.
Yes it does, it's a little tighter air flow than the pre-built coils at least when building horizontal coils. Haven't really tried building vertical coils in it.
ive got quite a few old heads lying around myself. i noticed you got the two piece barrel seperated. was that hard, what did you use? mine seem to be super press fitted and so far ive managed to just crush and oval the barrel before actually seperating.
No, wasn't very hard really just takes a bit of patience. After pulling out the old coil I took an Exacto knife handle without the blade, It fit down through the top opening but is to large to go through the bottom so then just lightly tapped on it while holding the outer shield in my hand until the bottom (inside shield) fell off. The Exacto handle I used is about 8mm so you could use pretty much anything about that size.
I used a drill bit to do the same 2 weeks ago and have been using the .5 crown coil since so when this goes I'll rebuild the stock coil. It looks like the same exact process as the Atlantis stock coil rebuild, and those are actually easy for me. The rubber grommet they have on the crown coil is nice and thick which seems to help with the rebuilding process. I forgot the size of the drill bit I used but when I get out of work I'll let everyone know. All I did was put the bit inside then hold the coil with a rubber mat and vice grip then tapped drill bit with hammer. It fell out very easily. The Atlantis coil you usually need to give the drill bit some good hits to disassemble.
having a problem here. either mine is broken or not set right. even at 200 watts I am not getting the power/production I get from sxm at 43j. the dna is on 460f and constantly hitting it. the sxm is on 400f and never hitting it. on the dna I have preheat at 8.5 and 100. it is just fizzing. using ni200 at .3 ohms. even a coil at .15 I am not getting much. I do not understand this and I know there is a lot that needs to be understood. for it to work right. I have no clue what is set wrong or if it is malfunctioning. I would really appreciate if someone would help me. I am imagining it is awesome but I am not realizing it. I am just stumped and I admit I hardly understand escribe. if anyone is willing to help me I would be grateful. I know some of you attempted before but it just is not working. id like to find out if it is actually a dud. I can drive to hana. I am betting something is not set right though. this is a bummer for me. I am sorry I have asked a lot of you guys. I just do not understand what is wrong. I mean I am barely getting any vapor out of it. i am completely lost now. all my dna40 work fine.
I'm having some issues with my Efusion DNA with Arctic nickel coils. Using the factory Nickel profile, 48W, 470* with 100W preheat for 1 second I can not for the life of me get a nice warm vape. The mod is limiting as it's supposed to, however it's not a smooth, gradual vape at all. It's instantaneously reaching 470 and dropping my wattage down in the 20's. It does this even with 1W preheat. It's anemic and tasteless. I'm coming over from the SX350J and never had this sort of issue. My Starre coils work just fine with the factory Nickel setting. Anyone else have this issue? Think it could be due to the higher resistance of the Arctic coils? They are resting at .243-.250? Here's what I'm getting in monitor. My case resistance came out to .0045 if that helps.
So are you saying that the same coils work fine on the Yihi?I'm having some issues with my Efusion DNA with Arctic nickel coils. Using the factory Nickel profile, 48W, 470* with 100W preheat for 1 second I can not for the life of me get a nice warm vape. The mod is limiting as it's supposed to, however it's not a smooth, gradual vape at all. It's instantaneously reaching 470 and dropping my wattage down in the 20's. It does this even with 1W preheat. It's anemic and tasteless. I'm coming over from the SX350J and never had this sort of issue. My Starre coils work just fine with the factory Nickel setting. Anyone else have this issue? Think it could be due to the higher resistance of the Arctic coils? They are resting at .243-.250? Here's what I'm getting in monitor. My case resistance came out to .0045 if that helps.
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