As for the headphones,I'm was thinking you might be attempting to calibrate TCR through the medium of sound!!
DNA 200 Watt
- Thread starter MegaVap
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Generally they are used for charging at high C rates or after a really bad RC crash where the pack is suspect.
Find a way to get bluetooth on it, and I'll make you an android appHeadphones will be for listening to the sonic waves generated by the 200W. I want a full sensory experience from this board. I want to feel, hear, and even see those 200 watts of pure power crashing over me and enveloping all around me.
I'm disappointed though that you neither noticed nor commented on my ridiculous f-off huge switch for the fire button. 22mm diameter!
If I'm going to have a desk-only mod it damn well better have a huge big button to trigger it(When I was ordering I noticed and somewhat briefly considered a foot switch
No up/down buttons, because that's so last month. I will change settings via the PC, naturally. I'm going to make a little widget that lets me change settings and then sends them via serial (over USB) to the dna. Already tested that last night, and it's pretty awesome actually
I think it's two meters each of 14, 16 and 18 gauge. I need some wire to practice on first
Cheers mate
foot switch! You crack me up mate!!If I'm going to have a desk-only mod it damn well better have a huge big button to trigger it
Cheers mate
What about voice activation although that might be tricky with a drip tip En Gob!
I suspect he is already on that case!!Find a way to get bluetooth on it, and I'll make you an android app
Find a way to get bluetooth on it, and I'll make you an android app
It's totally possible, I've already been thinking about it
What we need is a mod case slightly larger than normal. Inside, a DNA board with Lipo battery as normal. Then a Rasperry Pi or similiar micro-computer with a suitable 5V battery pack. Arduino would work too, but be more work to setup. Micro PC is powered via its own 5v USB battery pack. Lots of little packs to choose from there. (I assume there's no (easy) way to get it to also draw power from the 11.1v Lipo?)
Then a USB cable from the micro-PC to the DNA. Some simple scripts (shell scripts would be fine) or basic utility on the micro that sends serial commands to the DNA. The DNA communicates with the PC via Serial-over-USB. I've been told by James, the developer of the DNA driver, that it should be plug-and-play recognised on any Linux device. You can then literally do: echo "F=10S" >> /dev/ttyS1 to fire it for 10 seconds. (I'm assuming here you know a little Linux. If not, that's a basic command line that outputs text to the serial port (which is actually the USB port) to the DNA.)
And a bunch of other stuff - change watts, temp, set a static resistance for the coil, atty lock. And importantly, change the Profile, eg for switching to different kinds of wires and pre-heat settings. And also get back data. You can't (yet) set all the settings that ESCribe can, though that will be possible in future (it involves upload/download of a binary bundle that they will need to give us the specs for.)
So the communication from micro-PC to DNA is trivial, and then that micro could have built in Bluetooth or WiFi, or both. Then perhaps a simple web interface on the Micro - Python, Ruby, whatever - which provides a simple HTTP interface to triggering those commands. In fact the Python/Ruby app would just handle all the DNA communication itself directly, no need for shell scripts/separate utility.
Then we can build whatever app we like that talks HTTP to the micro, basically providing an HTTP API for the DNA. With that API available, we can then create any UI for Android, iPhone, PC, whatever - which can use any open network channel, ie BT or WiFi.
So yeah, I might give some of that a go at some point
I'll give you a shout if/when I do. Or if I don't, someone else is bound to! So your app could be pretty useful In the meantime, I'll definitely be doing PC-triggered vaping as soon as I get the thing running
Speaking of which.. I guess I should try and solder something! Be back soon.. hopefully
go to it!! Best of British!It's totally possible, I've already been thinking about it
What we need is a mod case slightly larger than normal. Inside, a DNA board with Lipo battery as normal. Then a Rasperry Pi or similiar micro-computer with a suitable 5V battery pack. Arduino would work too, but be more work to setup. Micro PC is powered via its own 5v USB battery pack. Lots of little packs to choose from there. (I assume there's no (easy) way to get it to also draw power from the 11.1v Lipo?)
Then a USB cable from the micro-PC to the DNA. Some simple scripts (shell scripts would be fine) or basic utility on the micro that sends serial commands to the DNA. The DNA communicates with the PC via Serial-over-USB. I've been told by James, the developer of the DNA driver, that it should be plug-and-play recognised on any Linux device. You can then literally do: echo "F=10S" >> /dev/ttyS1 to fire it for 10 seconds. (I'm assuming here you know a little Linux. If not, that's a basic command line that outputs text to the serial port (which is actually the USB port) to the DNA.)
And a bunch of other stuff - change watts, temp, set a static resistance for the coil, atty lock. And importantly, change the Profile, eg for switching to different kinds of wires and pre-heat settings. And also get back data. You can't (yet) set all the settings that ESCribe can, though that will be possible in future (it involves upload/download of a binary bundle that they will need to give us the specs for.)
So the communication from micro-PC to DNA is trivial, and then that micro could have built in Bluetooth or WiFi, or both. Then perhaps a simple web interface on the Micro - Python, Ruby, whatever - which provides a simple HTTP interface to triggering those commands. In fact the Python/Ruby app would just handle all the DNA communication itself directly, no need for shell scripts/separate utility.
Then we can build whatever app we like that talks HTTP to the micro, basically providing an HTTP API for the DNA. With that API available, we can then create any UI for Android, iPhone, PC, whatever - which can use any open network channel, ie BT or WiFi.
So yeah, I might give some of that a go at some point
In the meantime, I'll definitely be doing PC-triggered vaping as soon as I get the thing running
Speaking of which.. I guess I should try and solder something! Be back soon.. hopefully
Just some advice for people doing their own LiPo mods:
(1) A LiPo should always be protected from any nearby protrusions so that impact or crush damage is applied to a broad area of the LiPo. In particular, the ends of the LiPo need the most care in this regard, because this is where the battery is most at risk. This is due to the fact that a LiPo is sort of like a layer cake. If you hit it against the layers, the layers compress. If you hit it on the ends of the layers, the layers tend to be shoved into each other, which then leads to a short-circuit in the battery. Short circuits can lead to fire. For example, one should have a separator to protect the end of the LiPo from a 510 connector if it is going to be over the end of a LiPo battery.
(2) Remember to include room for padding. LiPos change size as their charge state changes and it adds further protection to the battery.
(3) The LiPo should be electrically isolated from its surrounding. For example, if you're using a metal box with the 510 connector attaching it to the negative battery terminal, you don't want any risk that a damaged LiPo could come in contact with it.
(4) Use materials that offer high electrical, impact, and heat resistance. For example, plastic nylon offers very weak resistance in terms of flammability. 3~4mm of plastic nylon is required just to achieve the lowest UL 94 standards of safety in flammability.
(5) Use a secure method to ensure that the LiPo battery stays in the mod if it is dropped or thrown (such as if it were in a car accident). For example, a magnetic battery compartment is likely not sufficient to ensure that a LiPo will stay in the mod.
(6) Avoid any situation where abrasion to the LiPo packaging could occur due to vibration or other forces.
(7) It's not a bad idea to review standards regarding safe battery design and the tests associated with them. Relevant standards include UL 1642, UL 2054, IEC 62133, etc.
(1) A LiPo should always be protected from any nearby protrusions so that impact or crush damage is applied to a broad area of the LiPo. In particular, the ends of the LiPo need the most care in this regard, because this is where the battery is most at risk. This is due to the fact that a LiPo is sort of like a layer cake. If you hit it against the layers, the layers compress. If you hit it on the ends of the layers, the layers tend to be shoved into each other, which then leads to a short-circuit in the battery. Short circuits can lead to fire. For example, one should have a separator to protect the end of the LiPo from a 510 connector if it is going to be over the end of a LiPo battery.
(2) Remember to include room for padding. LiPos change size as their charge state changes and it adds further protection to the battery.
(3) The LiPo should be electrically isolated from its surrounding. For example, if you're using a metal box with the 510 connector attaching it to the negative battery terminal, you don't want any risk that a damaged LiPo could come in contact with it.
(4) Use materials that offer high electrical, impact, and heat resistance. For example, plastic nylon offers very weak resistance in terms of flammability. 3~4mm of plastic nylon is required just to achieve the lowest UL 94 standards of safety in flammability.
(5) Use a secure method to ensure that the LiPo battery stays in the mod if it is dropped or thrown (such as if it were in a car accident). For example, a magnetic battery compartment is likely not sufficient to ensure that a LiPo will stay in the mod.
(6) Avoid any situation where abrasion to the LiPo packaging could occur due to vibration or other forces.
(7) It's not a bad idea to review standards regarding safe battery design and the tests associated with them. Relevant standards include UL 1642, UL 2054, IEC 62133, etc.
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Yeah I am going to surround my lipo with padding. one to protect it and twoo so that it doesn't move around. Still thinking about putting it in a fireproof bag so that the damage is minimum if it does go bad.
Unfortunately, I don't know anyone who makes hard cases for LiPo packs at the mAh people are going to typically use, which is what would be ideal. However, a silicone battery cover can help provide padding and minimize potential abrasion. It may also provide safety in terms of flammability, but it depends on the silicone. Here's some to consider, though sadly they don't include any UL 94 rating.
Batteries & Accessories>Protective Battery Cover
haha then you'd have to worry if you ...... someone off on the forum hacking your settingsIt's totally possible, I've already been thinking about it
What we need is a mod case slightly larger than normal. Inside, a DNA board with Lipo battery as normal. Then a Rasperry Pi or similiar micro-computer with a suitable 5V battery pack. Arduino would work too, but be more work to setup. Micro PC is powered via its own 5v USB battery pack. Lots of little packs to choose from there. (I assume there's no (easy) way to get it to also draw power from the 11.1v Lipo?)
Then a USB cable from the micro-PC to the DNA. Some simple scripts (shell scripts would be fine) or basic utility on the micro that sends serial commands to the DNA. The DNA communicates with the PC via Serial-over-USB. I've been told by James, the developer of the DNA driver, that it should be plug-and-play recognised on any Linux device. You can then literally do: echo "F=10S" >> /dev/ttyS1 to fire it for 10 seconds. (I'm assuming here you know a little Linux. If not, that's a basic command line that outputs text to the serial port (which is actually the USB port) to the DNA.)
And a bunch of other stuff - change watts, temp, set a static resistance for the coil, atty lock. And importantly, change the Profile, eg for switching to different kinds of wires and pre-heat settings. And also get back data. You can't (yet) set all the settings that ESCribe can, though that will be possible in future (it involves upload/download of a binary bundle that they will need to give us the specs for.)
So the communication from micro-PC to DNA is trivial, and then that micro could have built in Bluetooth or WiFi, or both. Then perhaps a simple web interface on the Micro - Python, Ruby, whatever - which provides a simple HTTP interface to triggering those commands. In fact the Python/Ruby app would just handle all the DNA communication itself directly, no need for shell scripts/separate utility.
Then we can build whatever app we like that talks HTTP to the micro, basically providing an HTTP API for the DNA. With that API available, we can then create any UI for Android, iPhone, PC, whatever - which can use any open network channel, ie BT or WiFi.
So yeah, I might give some of that a go at some point
In the meantime, I'll definitely be doing PC-triggered vaping as soon as I get the thing running
Speaking of which.. I guess I should try and solder something! Be back soon.. hopefully
.....oh my firewall and antiviri for ecigs
I know but still. got to be careful.
Honestly for now I was going to use foam padding(for now) to protect everything(probably going to make a barrier seperating the battery pack from the chip completely). I haven't found any place in belgium selling fireproof bags so I am still eh.
How about forming a cradle out of fire ......ant expanding foam?
Sent with one hand, the other is busy vaping.
Sent with one hand, the other is busy vaping.
Like that idea. I just used a few cans of that today around receptacle boxes in a new house construction. That Shiite is expensive though for a can of it. Over $20 here in PA.
Think of how many mods one can would do
Sent with one hand, the other is busy vaping.
Sent with one hand, the other is busy vaping.
so essentially creating a mold out of the stuff or putting the battery in and then just locking it into place with it?
I was thinking fill the mod case with it prior to installing anything, let dry, then remove and carve out space for all the internal parts and battery..... Should also proved some protection to parts and battery should you drop the mod. Might need to leave a good amount of air space around the top side of the chip for cooling purposes though
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