eVic-VT mini?
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Has anyone tried that? The VT just jumps back in VW mode if you want to "cheat" it by using SS in Ti mode.
Yes, my resistance was below 1 Ohm.
You still need to get some black glass for your Subtank ;-)
Edit: strike that, didn't read all of your post. Still, there is darker glass
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If the resistance is dropping after the fact it normally means you've fired it and knocked the resistance higher before it's been locked.
Build the coil on a cool atty after not firing the device beforehand, lock as soon as it reads the resistance (press the fire button so the display is on when the atty is installed) hopefully this will eliminate your problem.
The other possibility is that you're coil is not securely screwed down and it's causing fluctuations in your resistance, if I'm ever installing a coil on the ST RBA, I will wrap the tails around the screws so there is absolutely no movement in the coil.
Well I got my CLR-Ti heads yesterday, and still the same thing, hits protection straight away and hardly any wattage given, put it on another device and the tank worked fine, so guess it is the mod, maybe the pin isn't up enough on the evic and not making a good connection, that is all I can come up with, as tried so many different tanks and coils with it, still rocking it in power mode though 
Well I got my CLR-Ti heads yesterday, and still the same thing, hits protection straight away and hardly any wattage given, put it on another device and the tank worked fine, so guess it is the mod, maybe the pin isn't up enough on the evic and not making a good connection, that is all I can come up with, as tried so many different tanks and coils with it, still rocking it in power mode though
Try compressing the 510 pin up and down, heard of a similar problem that was associated with a poor 510 connection.
That's why I prefer it for house and not for out-and-about........ That and the rounded, and slightly fatter form of the IPV D2, which suits far better my hands (the out-and-about one).......
...do not try any metal detector with the VTC......
Update to my eVic VTC Mini problems.
I built the Origen V2 dripper last night with 28g, 8/7 wrap on a 6-32 screw. I unlocked resistance and fired the mini a few times to clear any memory, so when I installed the Origen it showed the New Atomizer screen L/R and I picked new. The resistance showed 0.09 ohms and I locked it in. Set the temperature to 420F and power to 15W, I had it already juiced up with my 50/50 flavorless 0mg primer juice and had a vape. Nice this was good, then the second vape gave the good ole' Temperature Protection shenanigans...
The air was blue, the wife NOT impressed and I dug the box for the mini out to take back to the B&M i picked it up from after work today. There is going to be an IPV D2 or Sigelei 75 coming home with me tonight. So I don't get the look from the B&M staff like I have three eyes I'll take the Origen with me to test on the IPV and Sigelei to give proof of failure on the mini.
When I got up this AM and put coffee on I figured I take another RDA with me for proof since the Origen is a PiTA to wick with Kanthal let alone a vertical Ni200 coil and I didn't want them to say it was a wicking problem...
The CCI Militia (Patriot) I have has a big deck but 6 permanent air holes drilled on each side, I didn't want that and chose the Mutation X V3 instead. The only problem with the Mutation X V3 is it chops off 28g and lower wire without batting an eye. I had a bit of 30g Ni200 pair twisted up so I figured that I would try it. Wrapped an 12/11 wrap on that 6-32 screw and mounted the coil very carefully. The wires didn't cut so I wicked it with Japanese Cotton and prepared the mini for the Mutation by unlocking the resistance and firing it without a device a few times. When I put the Mutation on the mini showed 0.19 ohms, cool all my other builds have been 0.08 to 0.11, this is the first higher ohm coil it tried. Locked the resistance in, juiced it all up and left the mini at 420F/15W from the previous night. The first vape was good as expected and the second vape was good too. I couldn't believe it!
I set the mini at 25W, filled the juice up and vaped again... Perfect! Quite cool compared to a 0.2 ohm dual on the Mutation that I am used to but it's working! Turned the power up to 35W and the temperature down to 380F and vaped WITHOUT TP kicking in... I had to go watch this in the mirror just to make sure. It didn't really need 35W so I put it back to 20W, left the temp at 380F and left for work.
I vaped the Mutation all the way to work (50 min drive) without a problem. Not your typical Mutation vape but a productive VTC mini vape.
So here is the thing for those that are having the rapid Temperature Protection errors on the mini. Build a 0.18 or 0.19 ohm coil, I have not tested it to see how low you can go before it starts the TP shenanigans again. Put it in any old RDA that will take it. Reset the resistance check by unlocking it and firing the device without your RDA mounted to bring up the New Atomizer screen when you put the RDA on. I am not sure if that part is important but the test needs a little consistency. Mount your RDA and make sure you get the New Atomizer L/R screen at first test fire. If so lock the resistance down, if not then reset the mini again till you do.
Set your temp to less than 400F and your power to 20W, juice and go. If it works then there is definitely a problem with the Hardware or a bug in the Firmware. I think that Ti will solve this problem as soon as I can get some in I will test it out, that way I can build a 0.3 ohm micro coil of 26g and have it actually fit in things as opposed to the 50 wraps required for Ni200...
I hope this works for everyone and is not just a fluke on my end, report back and let us know.
Cheers!
I built the Origen V2 dripper last night with 28g, 8/7 wrap on a 6-32 screw. I unlocked resistance and fired the mini a few times to clear any memory, so when I installed the Origen it showed the New Atomizer screen L/R and I picked new. The resistance showed 0.09 ohms and I locked it in. Set the temperature to 420F and power to 15W, I had it already juiced up with my 50/50 flavorless 0mg primer juice and had a vape. Nice this was good, then the second vape gave the good ole' Temperature Protection shenanigans...
The air was blue, the wife NOT impressed and I dug the box for the mini out to take back to the B&M i picked it up from after work today. There is going to be an IPV D2 or Sigelei 75 coming home with me tonight. So I don't get the look from the B&M staff like I have three eyes I'll take the Origen with me to test on the IPV and Sigelei to give proof of failure on the mini.When I got up this AM and put coffee on I figured I take another RDA with me for proof since the Origen is a PiTA to wick with Kanthal let alone a vertical Ni200 coil and I didn't want them to say it was a wicking problem...
The CCI Militia (Patriot) I have has a big deck but 6 permanent air holes drilled on each side, I didn't want that and chose the Mutation X V3 instead. The only problem with the Mutation X V3 is it chops off 28g and lower wire without batting an eye. I had a bit of 30g Ni200 pair twisted up so I figured that I would try it. Wrapped an 12/11 wrap on that 6-32 screw and mounted the coil very carefully. The wires didn't cut so I wicked it with Japanese Cotton and prepared the mini for the Mutation by unlocking the resistance and firing it without a device a few times. When I put the Mutation on the mini showed 0.19 ohms, cool all my other builds have been 0.08 to 0.11, this is the first higher ohm coil it tried. Locked the resistance in, juiced it all up and left the mini at 420F/15W from the previous night. The first vape was good as expected and the second vape was good too. I couldn't believe it!
I set the mini at 25W, filled the juice up and vaped again... Perfect! Quite cool compared to a 0.2 ohm dual on the Mutation that I am used to but it's working! Turned the power up to 35W and the temperature down to 380F and vaped WITHOUT TP kicking in... I had to go watch this in the mirror just to make sure. It didn't really need 35W so I put it back to 20W, left the temp at 380F and left for work.
I vaped the Mutation all the way to work (50 min drive) without a problem. Not your typical Mutation vape but a productive VTC mini vape.
So here is the thing for those that are having the rapid Temperature Protection errors on the mini. Build a 0.18 or 0.19 ohm coil, I have not tested it to see how low you can go before it starts the TP shenanigans again. Put it in any old RDA that will take it. Reset the resistance check by unlocking it and firing the device without your RDA mounted to bring up the New Atomizer screen when you put the RDA on. I am not sure if that part is important but the test needs a little consistency. Mount your RDA and make sure you get the New Atomizer L/R screen at first test fire. If so lock the resistance down, if not then reset the mini again till you do.
Set your temp to less than 400F and your power to 20W, juice and go. If it works then there is definitely a problem with the Hardware or a bug in the Firmware. I think that Ti will solve this problem as soon as I can get some in I will test it out, that way I can build a 0.3 ohm micro coil of 26g and have it actually fit in things as opposed to the 50 wraps required for Ni200...
I hope this works for everyone and is not just a fluke on my end, report back and let us know.
Cheers!
Here is the issue that I was having with my VTC Mini. When I was using the standard Joyetech tank that came with it, and the TI atomizers for that tank, I was getting a very inconsistent vape. Sometimes it would be a wonderful vape, and other times it would be a very weak vape, with very little vapor. I assumed that it may be a wicking issue with the atomizers.
I got some spider silk TI wire, and did a very simple single coil build in a sub tank mini. 26 ga TI on a 2.5 mm coil master spindle. Contact coil, and it read right around .35 ohms. I installed it in the VTC Mini, and "locked" the resistance while everything was room temp, and it vaped wonderfully. After setting the device down, and leaving it for 5 min, the "locked" resistance was reading .31 ohms, and the temp protection message came up almost instantly, and there was almost no vapor. After much trial and error, I discovered that the only way to fix this, was to:
1. Unlock the resistance
2. Remove the tank
3. press the fire button with no tank installed, this will prompt the system to display the new coil message.
4. Install the tank back on the device, and verify that the resistance was reading .35 ohms.
5. Select new coil at the prompt.
6. Lock the resistance again.
After doing these steps, my device would vape like a champ, and would continue to do so, as long as I did not let it "go to sleep" with 5 min of no activity. If 5 min had passed, I had to start the process all over again. I purchased my device from MVS, and contacted them about the issue. They gave me an RMA for the device, and I have sent it back. I am really hopeful that I will receive a working device back, that does not have this issue.
I have posted this here, and on the Joyetech Social forum that someone posted a link to earlier. After reading and researching TC, I really want to go in that direction with my vape, and honestly thought the VTC Mini was a great place to start.
If anyone has some advice, or a comment for me, I would really appreciate it. I want to love my new Joyetech device, and hopefully buy another for my wife, so that we can both go TC, as I feel it helps eliminate some of that 5% risk that still exists after the PHE study.
I got some spider silk TI wire, and did a very simple single coil build in a sub tank mini. 26 ga TI on a 2.5 mm coil master spindle. Contact coil, and it read right around .35 ohms. I installed it in the VTC Mini, and "locked" the resistance while everything was room temp, and it vaped wonderfully. After setting the device down, and leaving it for 5 min, the "locked" resistance was reading .31 ohms, and the temp protection message came up almost instantly, and there was almost no vapor. After much trial and error, I discovered that the only way to fix this, was to:
1. Unlock the resistance
2. Remove the tank
3. press the fire button with no tank installed, this will prompt the system to display the new coil message.
4. Install the tank back on the device, and verify that the resistance was reading .35 ohms.
5. Select new coil at the prompt.
6. Lock the resistance again.
After doing these steps, my device would vape like a champ, and would continue to do so, as long as I did not let it "go to sleep" with 5 min of no activity. If 5 min had passed, I had to start the process all over again. I purchased my device from MVS, and contacted them about the issue. They gave me an RMA for the device, and I have sent it back. I am really hopeful that I will receive a working device back, that does not have this issue.
I have posted this here, and on the Joyetech Social forum that someone posted a link to earlier. After reading and researching TC, I really want to go in that direction with my vape, and honestly thought the VTC Mini was a great place to start.
If anyone has some advice, or a comment for me, I would really appreciate it. I want to love my new Joyetech device, and hopefully buy another for my wife, so that we can both go TC, as I feel it helps eliminate some of that 5% risk that still exists after the PHE study.
I don't know how many lemons are lurking out there, or how many users are being misguided by the operational issues of each mod. Evolv, in their two incarnations (first batches, and last ones), YiHi, in its first TC-controlled chips and the so-called 'simplified-ones', like the SX130H, and all the other manufactures, from which Joyetech with their VT/VTC series prominently arise....
Because sometimes I read you and I suspect some indigestion of procedures, coupled with the always present chit-chat about coils, wrappings and all that jazz...
In my experience, they just work nicely. I have only got the IPV D2 and the VTC mini. First one, even being simplified from the SX350J, works much more like it bigger sibling, or just works. The user is the one and only in charge of things, to recognize the 'new coils' and setting them accordingly at room temperature with the simultaneous key of the '+' and '-' button. You do not do that and very quickly you get into trouble. You do that at the wrong temperature and you'll probably get dry-hits. It's just that simple.
Now the EVIC VTC. Well, it's true that it asks for the 'new coil/same coil' question if it is properly re-initiated. But to be honest, I haven't done that up to this last time, when I've read the several posts about the 'fire without atty to force the new coil recognition'. Yes, it does that, but I think it's just a remnant of former procedures, much following Evolv's ones....
... because I've always acted with it just like with the IPV D2, that is, I change atty, unlock the resistance, and lock it again at the new value. It doesn't matter if the mod asks, or does not, for the 'new coil' It doesn't matter if there is a new coil....with the exact same base resistance... Joyetech has mimicked the behaviour of YiHi chips in this instance just to ensure the ultimate user responsibility... if you re-lock the resistance properly (just the same that YiHi chips, but with different keying) it'll work.... no matter if the mod 'remembers' to ask you for the newness of the damn coil, you surely know it...
...because you know it, don't you?
Each time I've run into trouble, was because I did know that, but I didn't act accordingly (those silly humans prone to forget things!). Once I cooled down things, just take some blank hits, without firing, if the atomizer hasn't got warm, and done the proper procedure (it wasn't so hard, was it, silly human?, would be a good screen prompt....), it runs again as it was expected.....
And just up today, I didn't reckon that it can prompt you about new/same things........
...of course, YMMV if there are, in fact, wild lemons running downhill! Mine's not!....
Because sometimes I read you and I suspect some indigestion of procedures, coupled with the always present chit-chat about coils, wrappings and all that jazz...
In my experience, they just work nicely. I have only got the IPV D2 and the VTC mini. First one, even being simplified from the SX350J, works much more like it bigger sibling, or just works. The user is the one and only in charge of things, to recognize the 'new coils' and setting them accordingly at room temperature with the simultaneous key of the '+' and '-' button. You do not do that and very quickly you get into trouble. You do that at the wrong temperature and you'll probably get dry-hits. It's just that simple.
Now the EVIC VTC. Well, it's true that it asks for the 'new coil/same coil' question if it is properly re-initiated. But to be honest, I haven't done that up to this last time, when I've read the several posts about the 'fire without atty to force the new coil recognition'. Yes, it does that, but I think it's just a remnant of former procedures, much following Evolv's ones....
... because I've always acted with it just like with the IPV D2, that is, I change atty, unlock the resistance, and lock it again at the new value. It doesn't matter if the mod asks, or does not, for the 'new coil' It doesn't matter if there is a new coil....with the exact same base resistance... Joyetech has mimicked the behaviour of YiHi chips in this instance just to ensure the ultimate user responsibility... if you re-lock the resistance properly (just the same that YiHi chips, but with different keying) it'll work.... no matter if the mod 'remembers' to ask you for the newness of the damn coil, you surely know it...
...because you know it, don't you?
Each time I've run into trouble, was because I did know that, but I didn't act accordingly (those silly humans prone to forget things!). Once I cooled down things, just take some blank hits, without firing, if the atomizer hasn't got warm, and done the proper procedure (it wasn't so hard, was it, silly human?, would be a good screen prompt....
), it runs again as it was expected.....And just up today, I didn't reckon that it can prompt you about new/same things........
...of course, YMMV if there are, in fact, wild lemons running downhill! Mine's not!....
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Well I got my CLR-Ti heads yesterday, and still the same thing, hits protection straight away and hardly any wattage given, put it on another device and the tank worked fine, so guess it is the mod, maybe the pin isn't up enough on the evic and not making a good connection, that is all I can come up with, as tried so many different tanks and coils with it, still rocking it in power mode though
same for me
Well I got my CLR-Ti heads yesterday, and still the same thing, hits protection straight away and hardly any wattage given, put it on another device and the tank worked fine, so guess it is the mod, maybe the pin isn't up enough on the evic and not making a good connection, that is all I can come up with, as tried so many different tanks and coils with it, still rocking it in power mode though
Apart form faulty connections, which might hamper your attempts (beware adaptors, if they are used), as anything adding just 0,1 ohm could make things difficult, specially if the variations are not constant in time, I'm forced to ask some trivial thing.....
.....You know that when it shows 'Protection' it is just saying that the temperature limit has been achieved, but as soon as the power goes down, that temperature goes also down and the screen turns to a normal temperature reading, don't you?
At least, mine does that. And just exactly as the IPV D2 does, it is hard to reach the 'dry coil' or whatever messages it shows if you stubbornly continue firing. The vape goes down, both in vapour flow and flavour sensation, once you enter the dry zone, but even there it has to be really dried to show anything like that.....
Unless you put a really dry coil or you lure it setting as base resistance one way too lower than it is appropriated. Like putting an atty with 0,06 ohm base resistance, locking it, and then changing it with another one with 0,350 ohm base resistance without re-locking it....... 'dry coil' for sure!
If your units show the 'Protection' message and you don't get vape at all, even appear to get locked from firing, they are BWLRD (Big Wild Lemons Running Downhill) or something is not properly connected. The probe current for atomizer resistance is much lower than the actual firing current, something with high load between atomizer and mod, the kind of high load than gets bigger with high currents, might be held responsible for this.....
Since some people tend to overlook scaredmice's posts, I just want to clarify/simplify/say it again:
1. You must lock your resistance at room temperature before using a TC mod. RTFM if you don't know how to do that.
2. When the VTC Mini fires it very quickly reaches your desired (selected) temperature. It will then display "Protection". This is not an error. It is just telling you that it is at your chosen temperature. It will then vary the wattage (usually at pretty low wattage) to try to maintain that temperature. That is how TC works.
3. The wattage that you set in TC mode is only the initial burst wattage that is sent to the coil to get it up to your set temperature. It has nothing to do with the power sent to the coil after the first half of a second or less. Set it way too high and it will just overshoot your set temperature and dry out or burn your wick instantly. And if your wick dried out you won't get vapor.
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Ok. So I have begun to experience these issues after a week of flawless use.
From what I can tell its directly related to the identifying of a new coil and setting the resistance at room temp.
My issue is that I have 2 subtank Mini's & a troll all built with very similar resistances.
I can't seem to get it to ask for the new coil. When it doesn't the vape sucks and it immediately hit temp even if I set it to 600 and says its maintaining that temp at about 5 watts. That's not possible.
When I get it to recognize the new coil and get it locked I can vape it at 390 and 15w and it's a great warm vape with loads of vapor.
Nothing seems to work every time to get it to ask if it's a new coil. I try letting it sit for a while. Firing without an atty. Pull the battery. Nothing guarantees the "new coil" question.
So when I hit the fire button trying to get it to ask. It fires. Warms up the coil and now I can't get it set at room temp unless I let it sit for a while.
Pretty frustrated. And this is with the software update loaded.
Honestly I think it should ask every time you load an atty. Then automatically lock. Why not?
If someone has a trick to get it to ask please share.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
From what I can tell its directly related to the identifying of a new coil and setting the resistance at room temp.
My issue is that I have 2 subtank Mini's & a troll all built with very similar resistances.
I can't seem to get it to ask for the new coil. When it doesn't the vape sucks and it immediately hit temp even if I set it to 600 and says its maintaining that temp at about 5 watts. That's not possible.
When I get it to recognize the new coil and get it locked I can vape it at 390 and 15w and it's a great warm vape with loads of vapor.
Nothing seems to work every time to get it to ask if it's a new coil. I try letting it sit for a while. Firing without an atty. Pull the battery. Nothing guarantees the "new coil" question.
So when I hit the fire button trying to get it to ask. It fires. Warms up the coil and now I can't get it set at room temp unless I let it sit for a while.
Pretty frustrated. And this is with the software update loaded.
Honestly I think it should ask every time you load an atty. Then automatically lock. Why not?
If someone has a trick to get it to ask please share.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
What? Are you sure of that? They are not overlooking my posts, they're nicely written with just one target in mind..... to clarify those obscure things, once and for all.......
....define clarify......
Well, err, you surely know of what I'm talking about, don't you?
I can read them, so they can read me.....
O.K. Now it is official.....They do not read me, not even you, Vapingturtle. BTW, thanks for the actual clarification......
Why would it be?
What we can do?
Let's see. You do not need to be prompted by the little black monolith-esque toy about new nothing! Just unlock the resistance when you surely know you are changing the atomizer, be sure it is at room temperature and lock it then.....and if it is like mine, it'll work flawlessly.
I've been vaping with it (remember, flawlessly) without any questions involved, changing atomizers like there is no tomorrow!
And so far, it has asked me the infamous question just once.... and because I forced it like it was explained before. The only automagic I expect from it is to go to 'Power mode' if the resistance goes beyond one ohm....which it does (remember, flawlessly).
If yours do not do that, well, it is not flawless....... What can we do?
Ah! That! Guys...... Read The ....ing Manual, Because You Do Not Read Us!
And forget to buy a YiHi TC controlled device....They never ask for new nothing!
(OMG! That was good! Have I been too much naughty? Do I need to get a shrink?)
I'm using Evic firmware 1.10 with two atomizers: Tilemahos v2-nickel coil 0,18 ohm, 18,5W, 230 celsius-works great, no issues.
Flash e vapor v3, nickel coil, 0.22 ohm, 23W, 230 celsius-again it works great, no issues.
If I change between atomizers I unlock the resistance and then lock it back again when it reads the new resistance from the cold atomizer.
I had problems with both nickel and titanium clr heads so I think it is quality of the connection with poor atomizers not the Evic fault.
When building coils I like nickel more then titanium because it's soft and easier to work with.
I can make perfect coils with nickel it's like using clay.
Also gauge of the wire is crucial for temp control. You got to have quick response time (heating-cooling) if you want temp control to work like it should. I don't go thicker then 30 gauge.
Right now my favourite gauge is 31 awg pure nickel wire-7 turns around 2,5mm gives 0.18 ohm
Flash e vapor v3, nickel coil, 0.22 ohm, 23W, 230 celsius-again it works great, no issues.
If I change between atomizers I unlock the resistance and then lock it back again when it reads the new resistance from the cold atomizer.
I had problems with both nickel and titanium clr heads so I think it is quality of the connection with poor atomizers not the Evic fault.
When building coils I like nickel more then titanium because it's soft and easier to work with.
I can make perfect coils with nickel it's like using clay.
Also gauge of the wire is crucial for temp control. You got to have quick response time (heating-cooling) if you want temp control to work like it should. I don't go thicker then 30 gauge.
Right now my favourite gauge is 31 awg pure nickel wire-7 turns around 2,5mm gives 0.18 ohm
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