puh sorry I lost track completely. Just let me know what I should put in the OP and I will do... need to read the last 30 pages now 
eVic-VT mini?
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Many Thanks, will do for sure!puh sorry I lost track completely. Just let me know what I should put in the OP and I will do... need to read the last 30 pages now
Have you guys seen this? While I am no fan of the disrupter, I'd love to see a VTR with TC.
Sounds like they are doing precisely what I said earlier, for the reasons I stated, and now I believe we may have true TC control, regardless of coil.
https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/threads/innokin-tc-has-arrived.694232/
Max
Sounds like they are doing precisely what I said earlier, for the reasons I stated, and now I believe we may have true TC control, regardless of coil.
https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/threads/innokin-tc-has-arrived.694232/
Max
Hello all, I will say sorry in advance as this is going to be a little bit of a long post. So here is where I am so far with this device. I ordered my first one in mid September, and after 4 days of use was having all kinds of problems. So I contacted Joyetech US tech support, and they told me it was an issue with the device, and I should contact my purchase location. I contacted MVS, and they were great about doing an RMA. Yesterday (10/1/15) I received my replacement device. The details are as follows:
Hardware Version: 1.03
Magnet Number: T09005
Firmware: 1.1 (I haven't done the update yet)
So yesterday, I followed the advice and solutions that have been listed in this thread, and did the following steps:
1. Turn on the device (No Atty Attached)
2. Go to menu and select TI Mode
3. Scroll down to Resistance
4. Attach the tank/atomizer combo
5. Become confused as to why the atty measured .33 ohms on my meter, and then measures .31 ohms on my device, but lock the resistance any way.
6. Bump the fire button, and look at the current atty temp, and see that apparently my home thermometer that says 70F is obviously wrong, as the room temperature coil that I just put in the device is 126F.
7. Set the temp to 450 and press the fire button, and get almost no vapor, and begin cursing, causing my wife to become worried, and ask if I have injured myself in some way.
8. Unlock the resistance, and remove tank, press the fire button, install tank, select new coil right, see the resistance is now .41 ohms, press the fire button, and enjoy a nice vape.
So, at this point I realize that the brand new device that I just got as a replacement for my first device, has the same issues, and I am bummed. I verify this by letting the device go to soft sleep with a locked resistance of .41 ohms, and after 5 min wake it up, and find it has dropped back to .31 ohms, and I experience instant temp protect and almost no vapor.
So I begin to ponder what the issue could be. I take a look at the TI head that came with the tank, and I can see inside that the coil is a non contact coil, and I know that it is a .4 ohm coil. So I decide to try something different. I cut off a 5 inch piece of 26ga spider silk TI wire, wipe it down with alcohol, and create a new coil. I used a coil master with a 2.5 mm mandrel, and made a 9 wrap coil. I then spread it out a little on the mandrel, and then pressed it back together. This created a very close, but non contact coil. I then installed this coil in a Sub Tank Mini RDA, with a little difficulty due to the length of the coil, and measured a resistance of .35 ohms. So it is a little closer to the .4 I was shooting for. Then I pulse fire the coil at 7 watts, and verify that it is heating from the center out (no I did not let it glow bright, and verified that there was no white residue formed, the TI was straw color after firing, indicating a temp around 725F was the max, well below the 1,100 F that would cause TI Oxide). Then I wicked the coil, and wet it down, and installed it in my tank. I then performed the following steps:
1. Turn off the device
2. Turn it back on, and verify that it is still in TI mode
3. 3 click to get to menu, and scroll down to resistance, and unlock
4. Install tank, and notice that the resistance is showing .4 ohms
5. Lock the resistance
6. Bump the fire button, and notice that the current coil temp is showing as 100 degrees, or about 30 degrees warmer than I know it actuall is.
7. Set the temp at 450, and have a vape, and IT WAS GOOD!!!
So, I have a few vapes, and verify that the device is working well in temp control mode and all is well, so far. I set the device down, and let it go to soft sleep for a while. I come back 15 min later, bump the fire button to wake it up, and am thrilled to see that the resistance is still reading .4 ohms. I have a vape..... AND IT WAS GOOD!!!! I was able to do this all night, I could let the device go to sleep, and wake it up to see .4 ohms every time, and it worked correctly every time. I ended up setting the temp a little higher to get a nice vape, and was finding good flavor and no burnt taste around 490f all night.
This morning, I picked up the device, and the "Locked" resistance of .4 ohms had dropped to .37 ohms, and it did not vape well at all, and had instant temp protect. So I have not found the final answer yet, but I feel like I am getting closer. I am starting to wonder if there is a chance that the frequency at which the device measures resistance ends up causing a pulsing in the coil. If this were to happen, depending on the physical properties of the coil, we could start to experience Impedance, as well as standard physical resistance, together known as Inductive Reactance. I see some evidence of this as a contact coil will measure a lower resistance on the device than it does on an ohm meter, and a non contact coil will measure a higher resistance on the device that it does on an ohm meter. I think my next experiment will be to increase the diameter of the coil, to see what that does for it.
Thanks for reading my really long post, I just hope that we can figure this out, or maybe Joyetech will get it figured out.
Hardware Version: 1.03
Magnet Number: T09005
Firmware: 1.1 (I haven't done the update yet)
So yesterday, I followed the advice and solutions that have been listed in this thread, and did the following steps:
1. Turn on the device (No Atty Attached)
2. Go to menu and select TI Mode
3. Scroll down to Resistance
4. Attach the tank/atomizer combo
5. Become confused as to why the atty measured .33 ohms on my meter, and then measures .31 ohms on my device, but lock the resistance any way.
6. Bump the fire button, and look at the current atty temp, and see that apparently my home thermometer that says 70F is obviously wrong, as the room temperature coil that I just put in the device is 126F.
7. Set the temp to 450 and press the fire button, and get almost no vapor, and begin cursing, causing my wife to become worried, and ask if I have injured myself in some way.
8. Unlock the resistance, and remove tank, press the fire button, install tank, select new coil right, see the resistance is now .41 ohms, press the fire button, and enjoy a nice vape.
So, at this point I realize that the brand new device that I just got as a replacement for my first device, has the same issues, and I am bummed. I verify this by letting the device go to soft sleep with a locked resistance of .41 ohms, and after 5 min wake it up, and find it has dropped back to .31 ohms, and I experience instant temp protect and almost no vapor.
So I begin to ponder what the issue could be. I take a look at the TI head that came with the tank, and I can see inside that the coil is a non contact coil, and I know that it is a .4 ohm coil. So I decide to try something different. I cut off a 5 inch piece of 26ga spider silk TI wire, wipe it down with alcohol, and create a new coil. I used a coil master with a 2.5 mm mandrel, and made a 9 wrap coil. I then spread it out a little on the mandrel, and then pressed it back together. This created a very close, but non contact coil. I then installed this coil in a Sub Tank Mini RDA, with a little difficulty due to the length of the coil, and measured a resistance of .35 ohms. So it is a little closer to the .4 I was shooting for. Then I pulse fire the coil at 7 watts, and verify that it is heating from the center out (no I did not let it glow bright, and verified that there was no white residue formed, the TI was straw color after firing, indicating a temp around 725F was the max, well below the 1,100 F that would cause TI Oxide). Then I wicked the coil, and wet it down, and installed it in my tank. I then performed the following steps:
1. Turn off the device
2. Turn it back on, and verify that it is still in TI mode
3. 3 click to get to menu, and scroll down to resistance, and unlock
4. Install tank, and notice that the resistance is showing .4 ohms
5. Lock the resistance
6. Bump the fire button, and notice that the current coil temp is showing as 100 degrees, or about 30 degrees warmer than I know it actuall is.
7. Set the temp at 450, and have a vape, and IT WAS GOOD!!!
So, I have a few vapes, and verify that the device is working well in temp control mode and all is well, so far. I set the device down, and let it go to soft sleep for a while. I come back 15 min later, bump the fire button to wake it up, and am thrilled to see that the resistance is still reading .4 ohms. I have a vape..... AND IT WAS GOOD!!!! I was able to do this all night, I could let the device go to sleep, and wake it up to see .4 ohms every time, and it worked correctly every time. I ended up setting the temp a little higher to get a nice vape, and was finding good flavor and no burnt taste around 490f all night.
This morning, I picked up the device, and the "Locked" resistance of .4 ohms had dropped to .37 ohms, and it did not vape well at all, and had instant temp protect. So I have not found the final answer yet, but I feel like I am getting closer. I am starting to wonder if there is a chance that the frequency at which the device measures resistance ends up causing a pulsing in the coil. If this were to happen, depending on the physical properties of the coil, we could start to experience Impedance, as well as standard physical resistance, together known as Inductive Reactance. I see some evidence of this as a contact coil will measure a lower resistance on the device than it does on an ohm meter, and a non contact coil will measure a higher resistance on the device that it does on an ohm meter. I think my next experiment will be to increase the diameter of the coil, to see what that does for it.
Thanks for reading my really long post, I just hope that we can figure this out, or maybe Joyetech will get it figured out.
Wait so is there anyone who is not having any issues? I mean after all those 5 star reviews, what's going on. I have two in the mail and this is making me paranoid
It is working very well for me.Wait so is there anyone who is not having any issues? I mean after all those 5 star reviews, what's going on. I have two in the mail and this is making me paranoid
OK, so I just got mine in. First non-mech device ever. So tiny, seems so much bigger in pictures. Anyways, should I be able to press the 510 pin down with pointy object? I took a pen just to see the springiness of the 510 pin but it seems to be solid as a rock. I don't have any Attys on me right now so I can't screw one on to see how that goes. Also the 510 pin is crooked, not sure if you can tell by the pic. Is my VTC defective?
Man, it's a bummer that ya'll are having these issues. I guess I'm one of the lucky ones (I never had any issues more serious than the wonky battery bar with any of the 4 DNA40 devices I had either), I'm liking mine so much I was thinking of picking up a second, but I may hold off for a bit or get a D2. For a comparable vape I have to set temps way higher than I would on a DNA40 or YiHi chip (by 60-100F), but I'm not really concerned about numbers and it has been doing what I want: giving a great vape and preventing dry hits.
I hope they get these issues fixed for ya'll so you can enjoy it as much as I do (or you get something else you enjoy as much, lol)!
I hope they get these issues fixed for ya'll so you can enjoy it as much as I do (or you get something else you enjoy as much, lol)!
Starting a new thread is way to go as you can give links to Joyetech in your complaints/trouble ticket emails to them and run a community based trouble shooting theory to help Joyetech solve the problem in future updates and feedback any noticed symptoms which they may inadvertently introduce in future by trying to solve the issues you are having.
The joyetech page is moderated too much I tried creating thread with our issues and its submitted for moderation and until now has not been posted.
Can others try?
" life is about making decisions and not looking back "
Can others try?
" life is about making decisions and not looking back "
Wait so is there anyone who is not having any issues? I mean after all those 5 star reviews, what's going on. I have two in the mail and this is making me paranoid
While I feel for those who are having problems and hope they get resolved, mine has been working wonderfully since I got it a few weeks ago. Been using it mostly with Ni (a mix of Smok VCT-Ni heads, my own rebuilds of Protank and CLR heads) and a bit with Ti (CLR heads). Zero problems with performance other than having to set the temp 40 or so degrees above what I would set it on my DNA or Yihi mods, and about 20 degrees higher than the Kooper.
The only issue I had was a bit of a crunchy fire button right out of the box. It got smoother as I used it, and is now working fine.
I have 6 temp controlled mods, and the Evic and the Kooper are the ones I reach for first due to performance and ease of use. Granted, there's no guarantee that the two you have on order will be trouble-free, but I don't think there's any need to be overly concerned either.
Joyetech site will not allow honest un-moderated feedback to occur in real time which is why it is so small. Start the new thread on ECF and link to it in your email reports to Joyetech. Make sure the OP states that this is a feedback thread for Evic VTC Mini only to help Joyetech solve Firmware/Hardware issues with the help of community feedback theories in a positive manner and not a place to trash talk either the manufacturer or the product.
So I think I may be one step closer to finding the error in the code. I got my device to vape well again by warming up the coil a little by going ahead and vaping on it while it was putting out the weak vape. I then unlocked the coil, and removed the tank, hit the fire button, and put the tank back on. My .35 Ohm coil was now registering @.55 Ohms, which is to be expected. I opened up the air flow on the tank, and drew cool air through the coil, and kept screwing on and off the device until it cooled enough to register as .4 Ohms. I then locked the resistance and it has been vaping very well since then, even after soft sleep.
So after reading a post over on the Joyetech Social forum about board temp playing a role in correct resistance locking, I did some pondering and experimenting. I went and read the thread here about the Temp Coefficient of TI wire, and did some calculations about corresponding atomizer resistance to number of degrees that the board temperature is off from actual room temperature. So I have made a spread sheet, and have been playing around with the device by first checking board temperature, and how many degrees warmer than room temp the chip is, and then looking up what the resistance of my atomizer should be at that temp. I then make the two match by using the above method, and locking in the resistance that matches board temp difference.
So far it has been working very well this way, and if it continues to work, I think I may have stumbled onto the error in the Joyetech source code. If that is the case, I wonder how long it will take them to fix it, and what address do I send my bill to?
So after reading a post over on the Joyetech Social forum about board temp playing a role in correct resistance locking, I did some pondering and experimenting. I went and read the thread here about the Temp Coefficient of TI wire, and did some calculations about corresponding atomizer resistance to number of degrees that the board temperature is off from actual room temperature. So I have made a spread sheet, and have been playing around with the device by first checking board temperature, and how many degrees warmer than room temp the chip is, and then looking up what the resistance of my atomizer should be at that temp. I then make the two match by using the above method, and locking in the resistance that matches board temp difference.
So far it has been working very well this way, and if it continues to work, I think I may have stumbled onto the error in the Joyetech source code. If that is the case, I wonder how long it will take them to fix it, and what address do I send my bill to?
Very Interesting. Makes perfect sense. If that is indeed the underlying cause, they may not have a way to correct it in a software update (unless they prompt user for room temp at new coil screen) because it is hardware related. Can you post your spreadsheet so others can investigate?
May be why most don't have issue because they locked in before they used it and haven't made a lot of changes since, whereas those affected are constantly trying new things to solve it during use. You may have hit the nail on the proverbial head!
The nice thing is we don't have to wait for a fix if your workaround solves the issue in the mean time.
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Would you be so kind on telling us in layman's terms on what to do
Because I am in ph and my room temperature is a lot different from yours
" life is about making decisions and not looking back "
Because I am in ph and my room temperature is a lot different from yours
" life is about making decisions and not looking back "
He essentially did, but a spreadsheet with calculations for Ti and NI200 would make it easier. the way to do it without the spreadsheet is to use your current procedure while your mod has not been in use for an extended period thereby ensuring board temperature and room temperature are the same.Would you be so kind on telling us in layman's terms on what to do
Because I am in ph and my room temperature is a lot different from yours
" life is about making decisions and not looking back "
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