eVic-VT mini?
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I got my first one cyan
Hw 1.03
Fw 1.10
Ived got a replacement by a nice lady in my local store who kept few old stocks and replaced my new with the old black one below hoping i would not face the prob.
So the current one that i have is
Hw1.00
Fw 1.02
Still facing unit not functioning properly after idle.
Im yet to upgrade the old hw with the latest fw as to just hold while i ponder why the old one is not working as well.
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All night all morning troubleshooting..
Stuck with my last option to upgrade to latest software. Still holding....
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Sorry but what happens exactly on what setup?
You let the evic go to sleep and ..? Do you lock your resistance? (Not that it seems to matter on mine, unless I change builds.)
Eitje, ya ived tried right about everything, freezing/Ti/Nic/various ohms/resistance locking/reset base ohm/room temp etc etc.
I belief and feel for you. Just puzzled by the experience you are having. I've tried 2 rdas and my taifun so far and all are giving me a nice vape in Ti mode. On top of that the battery life is great as compared to my m50 for example.
Ok just example, please comment if i missed any steps. Whats your setup like?
0.08ohm nickel build on subUxmini tank.
Leaved it to room temp. 22C(i need to put in the freezer as the outdoor temp reads 33C here in malaysia, same goes for the mod i freeze to 20/21C. Having said that i did do these out the freezer as well inicially but also tried this freezing as to follow @iowa31s observations on mod and coil temperatures effecting the mod firing )
Then i put the atty on the mod, it reads 0.08ohm. (Tried locking/unlock it as well)
Pressing the fire button at 330F,25W. Slow vape n little smoke.
Pressing at 400+F and also adjuated Waats. It Vapes but the high temp causesdry n notto my liking taste. It would actually burn if i took 5 or 6 puffs.
Basically it just doesnt fire or work like my other mods.
So as to make it vape normally, others and i found that by warming the coil by firing at higher W and the either plugout/in the atty or off/onn the unit quickly would have the mod ask for new coil installed.(selecting no will bring it to 0.08ohm n doesnt vape properly)Selecting yes will have it on higher ohm in my case 0.11ohm.(yes ived tried locking/unlocking as well as the reset base resistance method mentioned on the manual)
Then it vapes perfectly at any temp 250F all the way to 400F. But the thing is this stays just for the session im on. I leave it for a good 3 or more minutes. The ohm will be going back to its cooled/room temp resistance which in my case 0.08ohm. It would be back to the slow firering(protection will popup imediately even at lower temp/watt settings). Basically i need to repeat coil heating/detect new atty thing everytimevi leave/off the unit for few minutes or more.
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Ya.. Pondering as i was also given few units from the same store that i bought and even their technician pondering if all their stock is defective. Then again why im having problem with one of their old stoks thats makes me crazy...
Ived triedbn tested Ti 24 A1 as well same case. All other mods snowwolf/sxmini/ does not have this problem using the exact tanks i build. The older version snowwolf doeshave this similar prob though but that is a quick and not to much hassel of a fix compared to this. Just restart the unit one time n its auto detect the atty and its goodbto go.
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Not sure if it would serve someone or if it will surely ruin the experience, but.....
https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/f...ce-ratios-for-those-who-would-need-them.7499/
Personally, I'd rather calculate them directly with the equations, if necessary..... but I'm stubborn like a mule and was trained as scientist, even been working as one..... probably a mad one.....
Ayee I hope it's not the temp or humidity, planning to be in KB for 3 weeks soon.
That set aside: Can you lower the temp to recommended levels for TC (i do C, 230-250, not F so dunno) but kick the watts up to max? Your build is below 0.10 , under unregulated circumstances, you'd be pulling near 200W. (No way on a single cell)
I think your just close to the performance max of the device if I have to guess.
Try a build like 0.15/0.18 even if just to see if that helps. (0.15 my lowest build tried so far, I can try and see how it behaves for me <0.1)
yea Eitje, Ived tried .15, .08 with different wattage and temp setings .and it just wont produce the good strong thick tasty vape at the fisrt base resistance put on as explained from example i gave above. You have to warmup(fire at 400F above)/reload/detect new coil ad repeat this if you idle/off the unit for a while as it will loose it.
Im curios if yours the same as you mention you only vape around 230-250C(thats 446F-482F !)
Ok would you be able to try at you base resistance .15 and vape at (17W-25W) at 280F to 350F(thats around 140-180C) ? would it fire and gave out at least a thick clunking tasty vape?
Yes, for me i could fire when its around 230-250C and produce vape on my base resistance of .15 . It would give me a slide throat hit and it is just to much of a warm non so thinck vape and i would have burn cotton taste in just after 5-6 puffs. (Ived have perfect and lasting wicking on my Lemo2/suboxmini/Velocity that last when firing at that levels on my other mods.)
I know it isn't a good one because it does produce good vape when i do the warmup/reload/detect new coil. (as well as using my other mods)
You should try it and feel the difference.(if your unit faces similar to mine that is).
You should be able to get some vape at 250F(120C) and best at 350F-400F(180C-200+C) at that setting.
Note* Im base lining all this on a 50/50 and 60/40 juices.
Im curios if yours the same as you mention you only vape around 230-250C(thats 446F-482F !)
Ok would you be able to try at you base resistance .15 and vape at (17W-25W) at 280F to 350F(thats around 140-180C) ? would it fire and gave out at least a thick clunking tasty vape?
Yes, for me i could fire when its around 230-250C and produce vape on my base resistance of .15 . It would give me a slide throat hit and it is just to much of a warm non so thinck vape and i would have burn cotton taste in just after 5-6 puffs. (Ived have perfect and lasting wicking on my Lemo2/suboxmini/Velocity that last when firing at that levels on my other mods.)
I know it isn't a good one because it does produce good vape when i do the warmup/reload/detect new coil. (as well as using my other mods)
You should try it and feel the difference.(if your unit faces similar to mine that is).
You should be able to get some vape at 250F(120C) and best at 350F-400F(180C-200+C) at that setting.
Note* Im base lining all this on a 50/50 and 60/40 juices.
Just tried a 0.12 dual coil build and even @60W vape is below par, I have to agree. Think its simply too much for the one battery as its taking a while for TC to kick in. Same build on my ipv 4s blows thick clouds.
@4v, 0.12 ohms that would be also at the upper limits of my vtc5 (30+ A) single cell though. So I'm not amazed hitting some threshold there.
@4v, 0.12 ohms that would be also at the upper limits of my vtc5 (30+ A) single cell though. So I'm not amazed hitting some threshold there.
1. forget ohm's law when you are using a vw/tc mod. It does not apply.
2. the Sony VTC5 is a 20A battery (CDR), not a 30+A battery).
Perfect, now try this if you dont mind,
At your base .12 fire at 220 or 230C for a good long 3 puffs and quickly off/on your unit and you should get a ohm increase iguest around .14 or .15.
Now select new coil when it ask for it when you press fire button.
Then lower the Temp say 150C to wards 400C and ouff away and tell me if its any diff compared to your earlier .12 base.
If you dont mind, do try to off/idle it for a while after this for about 5 to 10 minutes, and see if it could still fire at 150C to wards 400C and produce the same as before.
eltaros,
I was particularly wondering about the Electronics in the freezer for a couple mins. I'm sure part of the issue is goig to be internal vs external temperature. (anytime someone says 'make sure you are at 'room' temp, it makes me pause.) In other words, cool down the box a bit so it is at or below room temp and see how it offsets from there.
Max
I was particularly wondering about the Electronics in the freezer for a couple mins. I'm sure part of the issue is goig to be internal vs external temperature. (anytime someone says 'make sure you are at 'room' temp, it makes me pause.) In other words, cool down the box a bit so it is at or below room temp and see how it offsets from there.
Max
I'm sure the problems are not going to have anything to do with the internal board temp. Do you understand how TC works?
The problems are going to boil down to either the accuracy of the VTC's resistance reading, or its TCR calculation, or both.
(Note: I'm not having any problems.)
Okay but might take a bit for me to get back to you. Wife is already .... me for making a mess out of the living room table cause I brought my gear out lol and not finishing preps for diner. Getting people over in a bit.
VapingTurtle,
Yes Sir, I believe I do.
I also believe that the mod likely 'reads' room temperature whenever you are making settings. It does this with an on board sensor (likely as I really don't know, but). That board temp is going to vary from actual room temp, particularly after a few vapes at such low ohms. Its also going to cool differently, again particularly when it sleeps.
Now TBH, I certainly agree with your wholly encompassing 'boil down', I just suspect it will be further winnowed to a tolerance issue with actual hardware. But that's me musing out loud.
Max
I think you're making that up.
And reading too much into it.
And scrutinizing factors that don't really apply.
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Mmmm.....I'm starting to doubt that too (your actual understanding of it...).
So far, neither Joyetech nor any user that I'm aware of, excepting you, has stated something like that. And surely Evolv and YiHi boards are not doing that (compensating somehow temperatures directly measured by the chip in its internals, if I understood you well).
All TC-enabled boards inherently trust your base setting, and link it to an ideal state of 20 ºC. It's up to you to put the atomizer at 20 ºC, or at least the mean temperature of the coil is expected to be 20ºC. But it is not so important if you drift away from 20ºC (inside certain boundaries). Any drifting will simply be added to the imprecisions and actual error of measurement of resistances.
Because of the drifting TCR's between firmwares and actual wires, the inherent tolerances in resistance measurements and the calibration at not exactly 20ºC, the expected errors could be as low as 3 ºC (5ºF, according to Evolv for the DNA40 and using Ni-200), but I think that's far too optimistic. My experience is that you can drift away as far as 20 - 25 ºC.
And here in Spain we are now at 20 - 28 ºC along the day.....
And when you compare chips, things go crazy quick enough to learn soon something: It's not about an exact temperature measurement and precision driving of the coil, it's about putting some limits to the heating process to avoid nasty by-products and dry-hits. It doesn't matter if you achieve that with "180 ºC" or with "260ºC" on the temperature setting.
If the precision of the measurement were of the utmost importance, Evolv and others would have chosen a termocouple-driven scheme, or a genuine Pt-10/100 near the coil, or something like that....but it's not and those designs are far more expensive and complicated. They just adapted what was nicely working (a good VW chip) to 'sense' temperatures and being driven by that input using the change of resistance of an also well known wire (the Ni-200 formerly know as 'non-resistive' wire for R-NR-R coils in ceramic setups).
Having said all that, and discarding as a faulty one your idea of chip compensating any temperature drifting, I continue without a real clue of what is happening to you guys. I'm a bit ashamed by the fact that my VTC mini is performing so nicely, just up to the moment I remember I paid for it, of course, and it runs as I was expecting, not more, not less.
No driftings on base resistance by any means, never, not one, it doesn't matter if I take out batteries, start/stop it, switch it on/off in this or that way, click on the power button with or without atty (or with a changed atty or not). No dry-hits, no anemic vape, unless I calibrate the base resistance wrong.
Always my fault if it happens, and always easily fixed just re-calibrating it in a proper mode....
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