GG Tilemahos V2 and Penelope V4 mini official thread

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hobbes4

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Does anyone have a trick to remove the positive pin?

I bought just the V2Plus center post from ESG so i could try the flavor edition without investing in the whole rebuild part. I need to swap the positive pin over but can't seem to get it off. I tired wrapping the pin with a rubber band and then pliers but it didn't work. Also tried those gripper pad things people use to open tight lids but that didn't work either. I don't what to use pliers on bear metal but if that's the only way i'll try it.
 

AdamAnd

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Does anyone have a trick to remove the positive pin?

I bought just the V2Plus center post from ESG so i could try the flavor edition without investing in the whole rebuild part. I need to swap the positive pin over but can't seem to get it off. I tired wrapping the pin with a rubber band and then pliers but it didn't work. Also tried those gripper pad things people use to open tight lids but that didn't work either. I don't what to use pliers on bear metal but if that's the only way i'll try it.

Try running it under hot water first.
 

hobbes4

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Try running it under hot water first.

use pliers hob. Thats how I do it and thats how my sellers tight it. You will not heart the metal and a scratch on this piece is not visible. I screw the pins on all Tilemahos the same way :)

Tried both, still didn't work :(. Although the pliers i used were small and not very good. Will try using better pliers later. Thanks for your help.
 

hobbes4

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Imeo, during your testing of Tile did you try to make the center airflow tube higher so the coil does not sit so far away from the air source? I'm sure you did, so i guess my questions is what was the vape like? I know coil placement is very subject but just curious. On my other atties i tend to place the coil just a hair above the air source. I find i get more flavor and denser vapor by doing this.
 
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Ariel_MX

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Imeo, during your testing of Tile did you try to make the center airflow tube higher so the coil does not sit so far away from the air source? I'm sure you did, so i guess my questions is what was the vape like? I know coil placement is very subject but just curious. On my other atties i tend to place the coil just a hair above the air source. I find i get more flavor and denser vapor by doing this.

I have wondered about that too :)
 
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imeothanasis

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Imeo, during your testing of Tile did you try to make the center airflow tube higher so the coil does not sit so far away from the air source? I'm sure you did, so i guess my questions is what was the vape like? I know coil placement is very subject but just curious. On my other atties i tend to place the coil just a hair above the air source. I find i get more flavor and denser vapor by doing this.

Springomizer spring has the same distance from the air hole as the Tilemahos V2 Hob. I had made it closer to the coil before 2 years when I made Ithaka update and the liquid was coming in my mouth because of the big air pressure, so I reject it
 

hobbes4

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Springomizer spring has the same distance from the air hole as the Tilemahos V2 Hob. I had made it closer to the coil before 2 years when I made Ithaka update and the liquid was coming in my mouth because of the big air pressure, so I reject it

Okay, thanks. I was just curious what your findings were.
 
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jusnil

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hi Imeo

just got my hands on the Tilemahos v2 shine and would like to say good job!

immediately set up the Tile and it is awesome!

rekindled the memories of my Ody and Ithaka..


be67bc78fa32e5c0e79a72b828076965.jpg


Sent from my ASUS_Z002 using Tapatalk
 
So, I received my Tilemahos V2+ last Friday and it's a great looking atomiser with good flavour.

I have a problem though. I built mine with NiFe30 wire so that I can use it in temperature controlled mode on the Dicodes. Unfortunately, I'm seeing variations in resistance. My build was reporting 0.37 ohms this morning. Then I went out to move the car, taking my vape with me. It was vaping fine in the very cold air outside.

I came back and took another vape and it was very weak indeed. Checking the resistance showed that it had suddenly risen to 0.41 ohms when cold. I'm now seeing a seemingly random variation in resistance between 0.37 and 0.42 ohms. This is at room temperature when the atomiser has cooled down.

I know that the connections from the posts to the coil are nice and tight. The wraps of the coil are all spaced apart from each other. The centre post extension was screwed tight with pliers after I'd cleaned the atomiser when I received it.

What could be causing the variation in resistance?
 

Aal_

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So, I received my Tilemahos V2+ last Friday and it's a great looking atomiser with good flavour.

I have a problem though. I built mine with NiFe30 wire so that I can use it in temperature controlled mode on the Dicodes. Unfortunately, I'm seeing variations in resistance. My build was reporting 0.37 ohms this morning. Then I went out to move the car, taking my vape with me. It was vaping fine in the very cold air outside.

I came back and took another vape and it was very weak indeed. Checking the resistance showed that it had suddenly risen to 0.41 ohms when cold. I'm now seeing a seemingly random variation in resistance between 0.37 and 0.42 ohms. This is at room temperature when the atomiser has cooled down.

I know that the connections from the posts to the coil are nice and tight. The wraps of the coil are all spaced apart from each other. The centre post extension was screwed tight with pliers after I'd cleaned the atomiser when I received it.

What could be causing the variation in resistance?

I am running a V2+ in temperature mode using 28ga Ni200 wire. resistance is 0.11 and i have been using it for a week no issues. Did not take it outside but the resistance is not moving at all. So it is either your build or your mod. There is no issue with the atomizer as if there were i would have had problems especially at 0.11 ohms (I don't lock my resistance).
 

woita

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I'm using both my Tiles V2+ with TC (Ni200; .25mm; ~3mm coil; ~.15 - .20 Ohm; 5-10 wraps) exclusively and have recently experienced resistances being read too high as well.

However, this only happened on two of my mods whose 510-positive-pin-springs have become weak and only when I haven't had the positive screw screwed in all the way.
I have no problems on any other mods with tight springs (VTC Mini and iStick TC40) and even with a fixed 510 (believe it or not, the Ego One VT at Lo/Ni provides a great vape with my Tiles - only caveat is that it requires a minimum resistance of .2 Ohm which is a tad higher than I previously built).

When the screw is screwed in all the way (only had to unscrew it a bit to have it make contact with the Ego One VT) there's no problem with my old weak mods (VS DNA40, DiY DNA25s), too.

Maybe that could help :)
 
I'm using both my Tiles V2+ with TC (Ni200; .25mm; ~3mm coil; ~.15 - .20 Ohm; 5-10 wraps) exclusively and have recently experienced resistances being read too high as well.

However, this only happened on two of my mods whose 510-positive-pin-springs have become weak and only when I haven't had the positive screw screwed in all the way.
I have no problems on any other mods with tight springs (VTC Mini and iStick TC40) and even with a fixed 510 (believe it or not, the Ego One VT at Lo/Ni provides a great vape with my Tiles - only caveat is that it requires a minimum resistance of .2 Ohm which is a tad higher than I previously built).

When the screw is screwed in all the way (only had to unscrew it a bit to have it make contact with the Ego One VT) there's no problem with my old weak mods (VS DNA40, DiY DNA25s), too.

Maybe that could help :)

I have my centre pin screwed in all the way. The centre post on the Dicodes has a powerful spring and the mod itself is clean and relatively new. The resistance seems to have stabilised since this morning, but I'm at a loss to explain why it would drift in the first place.

The only thing I can think of is a less than perfect connection between the negative post assembly and the housing. If juice gets between these parts, due to the expansion and contraction of the atomiser as it gets hot and cools down again, that could cause the resistance to drift.

I'll keep an eye on it...
 

woita

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So will I.
In for a vacation to Vegas and LA (departing in Munich) starting tomorrow. Lots of pressure and temperature changes, will let you know if my resistances drift even though my center pin is screwed in all the way.

(I had the same thoughts about the negative connection when I first experienced a wrong read. However, as mentioned before, screwing the center in fixed it for me. But imho you`re right. There`s a possibility of bad connectivity there.)
 
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Fyla

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I have also experienced some issues with my Tile V2+ On my VS rDNA40 it has problem in normal mode, not only TC. Found that problem is with positive pin. Screwing it in both directions changes resistance and even fireing it at all. Havent tried to screw it all the way in tho ( was afraid of shorts). On mechanicals it works, on dicodes in normal mode works, in TC also problems sometimes. My conclusion is that it doesnt have good enough contact at positive pin
 
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