Hercules Rebuildable Atomizer (Ithaka Clone)

Status
Not open for further replies.

dwcraig1

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Mar 17, 2012
8,946
45,091
Imperial Beach, California
yeah, from what i saw on todds video, they dont screw past. hed have to make a taller base for the ithaka conversion kit as far as i can tell. i hope im wrong.
After watching the video of those parts going together I must say that I agree, the threads of the kit body stop way before the holes in the sides of the feeder ring. Looks like a problem to me also for those converting an Ithaka(clone).
 

dwcraig1

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Mar 17, 2012
8,946
45,091
Imperial Beach, California
I polished one of them, after viewing the macro I may do it again. Looks real good in person. Hercules.jpg
 

skigro

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jul 3, 2012
143
66
42
Cross Plains, WI
I started with Emory cloth.
Used grey compound then green
I'm going to get some much finer grades of wet paper for next time

Hmm, all I have is mothers mag polish and a Dremel. I'm going to try that and see what I can do. If that doesn't work I guess I'll use some fine grit sandpaper.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

withravenoushunger

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Dec 1, 2010
639
104
32
Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
I'm not having any luck setting up dual coils. I just made a single coil instead. For whatever reason my negative wire kept breaking after firing it. I assume it was a short but I couldn't find any reason that there would be a short. I'd like to try the premade wires but I can't find them.
 

dwcraig1

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Mar 17, 2012
8,946
45,091
Imperial Beach, California
I'm not having any luck setting up dual coils. I just made a single coil instead. For whatever reason my negative wire kept breaking after firing it. I assume it was a short but I couldn't find any reason that there would be a short. I'd like to try the premade wires but I can't find them.
Here:
Ready Wire for Coils- NEW LR
Thanks for reminding me, I kept forgetting to order some
 
Last edited:

lumberjack

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 30, 2012
350
299
TX, USA
yeah, from what i saw on todds video, they dont screw past. hed have to make a taller base for the ithaka conversion kit as far as i can tell. i hope im wrong.

I've been using the kit with a GGTS Ody base, but I tried the Hercules base tonight. You're right - it's too short, exposing the feeder holes.

I might try cutting off the top of the basic feeding part to get rid of the holes... that might work.

(On second thought, no. Someone else can try that. :vapor:)

hercufun.jpg
 
Last edited:

pmac415

Full Member
Nov 29, 2012
31
9
North Carolina
Last edited:

skigro

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jul 3, 2012
143
66
42
Cross Plains, WI

jmarkus

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Mar 3, 2011
1,387
1,126
51
CA USA
Does the draw seem tight to anyone else? My airhole is open and it's still a bit too tight.

i noticed the same thing, i think its due to the fact that the center pin has a smaller hole than the ithaka. i bet you can prolly drill it out a hair bigger, not sure how much it would change tho.
 

dwcraig1

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Mar 17, 2012
8,946
45,091
Imperial Beach, California
I've been using the kit with a GGTS Ody base, but I tried the Hercules base tonight. You're right - it's too short, exposing the feeder holes.

I might try cutting off the top of the basic feeding part to get rid of the holes... that might work.

(On second thought, no. Someone else can try that. :vapor:)

View attachment 236166

There should be a screw in your parts bag to screw into the end of the positive post to extend it.
There was a guy in the GG thread that plugged the holes with silicone.
And did it cause a leak with the holes exposed? I would think that it would leak like h***
 
Last edited:

lumberjack

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 30, 2012
350
299
TX, USA
There should be a screw in your parts bag to screw into the end of the positive post to extend it.
There was a guy in the GG thread that plugged the holes with silicone.
And did it cause a leak with the holes exposed?

Yes, the contents of the tank quickly drain out the bottom without anything to plug the feed holes. The screw will help the kit's post clear the 510 or GG base, but with those holes exposed... it's just not going to work.

I think you have to plug the holes, shave down the Herc's basic feeding piece or wait for a new version of the kit!

(Or just use it on something else, which is what I'll do.)
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Users who are viewing this thread