How to wire the DNA charger WITHOUT DNA 12/20

[LouEyez]

Hi everyone,

I'm trying to figure out how to wire the dna charger into my mod without using the dna 20d.
The problem I am having is that the dna charger board, only has 2 places to solder to + and -

Can any please tell me how to wire this in?

the mod is a simple 3.7v 18350 with on/off.

Thanks in advance...

Lou

 

[retird]

+ to battery side of the on/off switch
- to the negative post of the battery

don't use this charger as a pass thru device....don't vape while charging...

 

[LouEyez]

Man, you are all over this forum...thank you so much for your answer...

The box is an aluminum box that you screw the door onto, so either I used this charger, or carry a screwdriver...I won't use it as a passthrough, but thanks for the comment because it is one of those things that I was wondering.

You da man, and hopefully, once I have less questions, ill try my hand at one of your more complicated mods

Take care,

Lou

 

[WillyB]

don't use this charger as a pass thru device....don't vape while charging...

Why is that? I've been using similar chargers for years and always vaped while charging.

 

[retird]

There have been a few reports that it can cause the board to malfunction (stop charging). I've built at least 10 mods with this charger and only had one charger board go bad. It happened to be the only mod that I vaped while charging. Maybe just a coincidence, but the board had to be replaced.

 

[WillyB]

There have been a few reports that it can cause the board to malfunction (stop charging). I've built at least 10 mods with this charger and only had one charger board go bad. It happened to be the only mod that I vaped while charging. Maybe just a coincidence, but the board had to be replaced.

That's good to know.

 

[LouEyez]

So something like this?
Atti center red to switch to on/off to charger +

Switch center to bat -

Atti - to bat -
Charger - to bat -

L

 

[retird]

Don't ya mean Switch center to bat +

Might be better to have charger + connected to same place on the on/off switch as the wire going to the bat +...that way ya can charge with the on/off switch in the off position...

 

[LouEyez]

Oops...you are right, I did mean to bat +

Thanks for the info. I hope to finish it tonight...fingers crossed.

L

 

[LouEyez]

Well, I'm almost there...
I'm trying to put this switch in
Interrupteur à poussoir bleu N/A 250 V/AC 0.5 A avec éclairage SCI R13-529AL BLUE LED sur le site Internet Conrad | 701224

the wiring is as follows
Atti + to switch
led + to resistor to same side of switch
atti - to LED - to bat -
other side of switch to on/off (side)
center on/off to bat+ AND charger +
Charger - to bat -

The thing vapes, the on/off works, but the LED will not come on...any idea what I'm doing wrong?

Thanks,

L

 

[retird]

Edit.......lost alot in translation.....

http://www.madvapes.com/3mm-blue-led.html

 

[bapgood]

It would help if the specs were in English, but it looks like the led is 2vdc.

Are you using a resistor for the led?

 

[LouEyez]

Hi,
Sorry about the language.
It's in English here
http://www.produktinfo.conrad.com/d...-DRUCKTAST_R13_529AL_BLAU_LED_de_en_fr_nl.pdf

I'm using the resistor that came with the madvapes vv box, which is one of the 2 included here:
http://www.madvapes.com/5v-510-box-mod-kit-3559.html

L

 

[retird]

The madvapes vv kit came with an led and resistor....why not use it....

 

[LouEyez]

The only reason I'm using that switch/led combo is because I have it.
Also, I've drilled the hole into the box, and it fits perfect...
only things left to do are see if I can get the led working,
see if the charger works,
Make the opening in the box for the charger
And extensively test the pocketabity

L

 

[LouEyez]

By the way, how can I test the charger without emptying a battery and hooking it up and seeing if it works or not?

L

 

[LouEyez]

Hey guys, please help...
I cant get it to work...

Here's what I've done.
I am using this alumin(i)um box
Boîtier aluminium 52.5 x 38 x 31 mm Hammond Electronics 11451PSLA sur le site Internet Conrad | 522356
One of the tactile buttons from Madvapes
On/off switch
and DNA charger

I made mechanical connections outside the box, and it vaped, so I put everything in the xox, soldered what needed to be soldered, and now nothing.
I checked if any wires were touching somewhere they shouldnt be...checked continuity on everything, tried a different switch..NADA...everything seems to be in the right place and functioning the way it should be except for the small little issue that it doesn't work...at least not once I've put it into the box

I couldnt get the led to work (the one from the vv madvapes kit) so I put that aside and wired as follows
Center atti to switch (I cut off the 2 legs of the switch I would not be using)
Other side switch to left on/off
Left/on off to charger +
middle on/off to Bat+
charger - to bat -
Atti neg to bat -

I decided to secure the atti - using an oring from the inside of the box to act as a heat sink and as something to hold the wire in place, but when it wasnt working I removed that, just to make sure that this was not the problem, and it was not.
I elevated the charger, and put some electrical tape on the connections so that they are not touching the case (or each other) but that didnt make it work
I put electrical tape around the on/off switch in case some metal was touching the box still nothing
I took the switch out of the hole I made for it, jut to make sure that it wasnt touching something it shouldn't, but still that did nothing...

The 510 connection is press fit onto the Aluminum box...could that be doing something that it shouldn't? since the box is maybe acting as the atti -?
If I dont get an answer from anyone, i'll try to find something plastic drill the hole a little wider and put the plastic and 510 back in and try again (sorry thinking while I type)

This is really frustrating...

Thanks,

Lou

 

[retird]

How about a picture of your build....the switch needs to be rated for at least 3 amps....kinda hard to tell what's wrong without a picture..

 

[LouEyez]

Here you go

The cut oring was holding the loose brown atti - wire from inside the box and the lower 2 stripped brown wires were attached to the switch.

 

[retird]

Very poor picture...can't tell what the parts are.....also not completely wired so can't tell what you did....

my guess is that the on/off switch is not rated for 3 amps and the tactile switch is not rated for the current going thru it.. and can't tell anything from the picture about the atty connector....

sorry I can't be of more help.....