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Sorry about the pics, I'll try again more in detail
This is a picture of the 510 connector and that gold ring was clipped around the connector holding the brown negative wire onto the atti
This is the switch. It had 5 legs, I cut off one from each side.
This is of the on/off
On the left pin, I soldered the battery positive wire to the middle pin and 2 wires, one to the switch and the other to the charger positive as per the next picture.
The blue wire here is going straight to the battery negative
Thanks again. I know this is all well beneath your skills, but I'm new to all this and really don't want to break my window with this thing
Lou
This is a picture of the 510 connector and that gold ring was clipped around the connector holding the brown negative wire onto the atti
This is the switch. It had 5 legs, I cut off one from each side.
This is of the on/off
On the left pin, I soldered the battery positive wire to the middle pin and 2 wires, one to the switch and the other to the charger positive as per the next picture.
The blue wire here is going straight to the battery negative
Thanks again. I know this is all well beneath your skills, but I'm new to all this and really don't want to break my window with this thing
Lou
I know for sure the tactile switch is not rated for the current you are putting thru it....you will need a switch similar to this....
Horn Style Switch, Chrome
Horn Style Switch, Chrome
Yes. The blue on the on/off is going to the battery + connection.
Unfortunately, my wires are not properly color coordinated because I realized too late that I had soldered the wrong color on one of the connections. But it all worked when they were outside the box...something happened once I put it in the box. I wish I had a bunch on on/off switches on hand, I'm starting to think that it is the culprit
Unfortunately, my wires are not properly color coordinated because I realized too late that I had soldered the wrong color on one of the connections. But it all worked when they were outside the box...something happened once I put it in the box. I wish I had a bunch on on/off switches on hand, I'm starting to think that it is the culprit
Ok...I guess I'm going to have to take the horn switch off the madvapes 3.7v DIY kit and use that instead. But again, it worked and I've seen so many people use that switch with their dna projects (like the milo for example)
Thanks a lot for your help
On the DNA's the current to the atty does not go thru the switch...it is different technology than you are using....all the current to the atty must go thru the switch in your design....your on/off and button switch needs to be about 3 amps rated....good luck on getting it sorted out....
Hi Retird,
I finally got it working thanks to you.
I changed the switch to the horn style one, but had to get rid of the on/off switch though, since there wasnt much room in there.
I need to do a couple more things before I post the final results...
Still have to solder in the wires for the charger, which I guess is only charger + to battery + and - to -
Then make the hole to plug in the usb, wrap the battery, build the coil, and vape
Again, thanks a lot for your help,
Lou
I finally got it working thanks to you.
I changed the switch to the horn style one, but had to get rid of the on/off switch though, since there wasnt much room in there.
I need to do a couple more things before I post the final results...
Still have to solder in the wires for the charger, which I guess is only charger + to battery + and - to -
Then make the hole to plug in the usb, wrap the battery, build the coil, and vape
Again, thanks a lot for your help,
Lou
Get some thinner wire to work with. I don't how you managed at all with all the thick solid core you were using. The charger isn't moving much current. You should have something laying around with some thin, flexible, stranded wire. Old DC power supply/wall warts, phone charger etc.
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