IJOY EXO SERIES TANKS (EXO S, EXO X, EXO XL, EXO RTA)

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hittman

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  • Jul 13, 2009
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    I played around with TC for a long time and tried most of the common wire types. I just had a problem getting consistent performance and ended up running all of my stuff in power mode now. I did just order my first dna mod so I will give it a try in TC mode to see if it's any better.
     
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    Don29palms

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    I played around with TC for a long time and tried most of the common wire types. I just had a problem getting consistent performance and ended up running all of my stuff in power mode now. I did just order my first dna mod so I will give it a try in TC mode to see if it's any better.
    It took me awhile to get tc alright but now it's pretty much all I use. SS316L
     

    TrollDragon

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    I find that not all RTAs will work great in TC, I have a few that play along for a bit then throw a fit. Changeable decks like the Crius + uses don't work very well. The 510 pin should screw into the deck itself as well as the deck threading onto the base. Spring loaded 510's like on the Taifun's have a hard time with TC and so on. If a tank give you issue in TC, check that everything is tight. Coils can become loose after working out the hot spots, so give the post screws one final snugging up after your last glow.
     

    ccwaters

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    I've been getting decent flavor the last couple days by using Power Mode on my Therion 166. TC just doesn't cut it. Oh well.

    The flavor is a lot better on the OBS Engine Nano but the liquid capacity and consumption of the EXO RTA is much better for me. I have to refill the Engine Nano every few hours it seems whereas the EXO RTA can last all day.

    Sounds to me like your not getting optimal wicking on your EXO, I've used both, when the EXO is wicking properly juice consumption is not mizerly at all. Matter of fact the EXO is proving to be one of the thirstiest single coil tanks I've used. I can literally watch the level drop every hit, and empty the 6 ml very quickly.

    Now that may not be what you want to happen, but a side effect of this is FLAVOR. If the wicking is just a little to dense, your going to get it to vape just fine at lower power levels, (no dry hits) but the flavor is going to take a big hit.

    It is sort of the same reason I think so many claim a 2mm or 2.5mm coil provides them better flavor on the Nano, it forces you to use less wick and increases flow. Fully saturated wick is the key to flavor on anything. An RDA is where this is really noticeable.

    Strike the proper balance on the EXO and you'll find flavor will pick up tremendously.
     

    Gallant

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  • Dec 4, 2013
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    The flavor is a lot better on the OBS Engine Nano but the liquid capacity and consumption of the EXO RTA is much better for me.
    Keep tweaking your coil till you find the sweet spot & you will be surprised with flavor quality the EXO can deliver
    I ranked the EXO #1 till the KYLIN took the #1 spot
     

    BlackCRX

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    Personally I think the key to a good temp control vape is proper wicking. You really need to play with it and find the sweet spot for it.

    When I first started temp control on RTAs I had very little success with it. At 425-450 the vape was very very weak, if I used the same coil on an RDA it would be flavorful and delicious.

    Too much wick will "choke" the juice not allowing it to get to the coils. Too little wick and there will not be enough contact between the wick and coil. Both will cause a poor vape experience.

    During that same trail and error period when I first started temp control I would build a coil, wick it, vape it, record or make a mental note of my vape experience. Pull out the wick but leaving the coil in place, rewick it with either more or less cotton, fluffing it, rolling it, etc.., repeat and so on. I did this for probably 6 times before I found how much cotton I needed. Keep in mind the coil was never replaced or moved, just changed the wicking thickness and/or method.

    Once you get that figured out, you will love temp control and SS316L. I haven't used anything else since.
     

    Herrick

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    Temperature control has been pretty flawless on my Eleaf iPower 80 when I started spacing the coils. It's the Therion 166 that I've been having problems with.

    I've been using Rayon and they say to use a lot of rayon in the coil and thin out the tails. Maybe I'll try Cotton Bacon again and see what happens. I definitely want more flavor but it will be sad if the juice consumption goes up :(
     

    jeanyang2017

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    jeanyang2017

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    BlackCRX

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    Temperature control has been pretty flawless on my Eleaf iPower 80 when I started spacing the coils. It's the Therion 166 that I've been having problems with.

    I've been using Rayon and they say to use a lot of rayon in the coil and thin out the tails. Maybe I'll try Cotton Bacon again and see what happens. I definitely want more flavor but it will be sad if the juice consumption goes up :(
    What kind of issues are you having with the DNA?
    Have you tried attaching the "working atomizer" from your eleaf to your DNA?
    I recall that eleaf like Wismec and Joyetech use a higher TCR for SS.
    Might just be the CSV curve or TCR value of your DNA and not so much an issue with wicking.
     
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    Tekaluku

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    Keep tweaking your coil till you find the sweet spot & you will be surprised with flavor quality the EXO can deliver
    I ranked the EXO #1 till the KYLIN took the #1 spot

    Hey man..... researching ur suggesting of the kylin....just might be my next tank.....so more user experience info might help. Hope it doesn't have that conductivity issues on the black colour like the exo did.


    Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
     
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    Herrick

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    What kind of issues are you having with the DNA?
    Have you tried attaching the "working atomizer" from your eleaf to your DNA?
    I recall that eleaf like Wismec and Joyetech use a higher TCR for SS.
    Might just be the CSV curve or TCR value of your DNA and not so much an issue with wicking.

    Sometimes, TC mode is wimpy compared to power mode using the same wattage or even more wattage. Weak vapor & flavor. All my tanks work fine on the eLeaf mod. I tried a different profile supplied by TrollDragon but that seems weird too. One of my coils & wick got all burned up by it.
     

    BlackCRX

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    Sometimes, TC mode is wimpy compared to power mode using the same wattage or even more wattage. Weak vapor & flavor. All my tanks work fine on the eLeaf mod. I tried a different profile supplied by TrollDragon but that seems weird too. One of my coils & wick got all burned up by it.

    Sounds like it might be a refinement issue.
    Does the resistance of the coil change between a"good vape" and a "weak" vape?
    To figure this out you can plug your DNA to escribe with the atomizer analyzer open and let it sit for 5-10mins. Once that value is somewhat steady, lock the resistance and leave it locked. See if this gives you a more consistent vape experience

    Also what are you coils like? gauge? style? resistance? etc..

    I personally use the stock Steam Engine SS316L profile, but a lot of ppl prefer DJaquith V3 profile. From what I can tell it is basically the stock Steam Engine profile but resistance has been increased by 2% giving you a warmer vape.
     
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    TrollDragon

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    Sometimes, TC mode is wimpy compared to power mode using the same wattage or even more wattage. Weak vapor & flavor. All my tanks work fine on the eLeaf mod. I tried a different profile supplied by TrollDragon but that seems weird too. One of my coils & wick got all burned up by it.

    I personally use the stock Steam Engine SS316L profile, but a lot of ppl prefer DJaquith V3 profile. From what I can tell it is basically the stock Steam Engine profile but resistance has been increased by 2% giving you a warmer vape.

    There is definitely a baseline or cold resistance issue if it burned up one of your coils. The SS316L profile I posted is from DJaquith and it his V4 which is hotter but still shouldn't glow the coil unless there is a problem. I find the default SE SS316L profile to be too cool for me which is why I use the V4. There are many variations to SS wire across manufacturers and getting a great TC vape will require some tweaking.

    You can test this by just using the base of your EXO with no wick in the coil. Select your SS316L profile, set the power level to 50W and the temp to 440F. Hit the fire button with the atomizer off the DNA so you get the Check Atomizer screen, I do this to clear any previous settings. Screw your cold, wickless atomizer on and hit the fire button once quickly, it might ask you if it is a New Coil, if it does select yes. The measured resistance should be very close to what you know it should be, if it is way off then you have a connection problem with the base or your coils etc. If it is correct then hitting the fire button should not glow the coils red but quickly rise to the set 440F mark and show the Temperature screen. If the coils glow, the baseline resistance is not correct or you have some other wire type than what the profile is set for.

    Once you have a proper working baseline, it is much easier to diagnose builds that don't work.
     

    BlackCRX

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    There is definitely a baseline or cold resistance issue if it burned up one of your coils. The SS316L profile I posted is from DJaquith and it his V4 which is hotter but still shouldn't glow the coil unless there is a problem. I find the default SE SS316L profile to be too cool for me which is why I use the V4. There are many variations to SS wire across manufacturers and getting a great TC vape will require some tweaking.

    You can test this by just using the base of your EXO with no wick in the coil. Select your SS316L profile, set the power level to 50W and the temp to 440F. Hit the fire button with the atomizer off the DNA so you get the Check Atomizer screen, I do this to clear any previous settings. Screw your cold, wickless atomizer on and hit the fire button once quickly, it might ask you if it is a New Coil, if it does select yes. The measured resistance should be very close to what you know it should be, if it is way off then you have a connection problem with the base or your coils etc. If it is correct then hitting the fire button should not glow the coils red but quickly rise to the set 440F mark and show the Temperature screen. If the coils glow, the baseline resistance is not correct or you have some other wire type than what the profile is set for.

    Once you have a proper working baseline, it is much easier to diagnose builds that don't work.

    I actually set my baseline differently. Not that your way is incorrect or anything.
    I would build/wick my coil, DNA device set to my profile (SS316L in my case), fire the atomizer until it hits temp control, quickly remove the atomizer from the mod and reattach it, press the fire button, press "up" for new coil.
    Now I know for a fact that the coil reading is wrong and way to high in resistance. I leave the setup alone for 5-10mins. This forces the DNA to re calibrate base line cold ohms.

    The reason I do this is because sometimes when you thread down a tank to a mod, some mods tend to grab the first initial coil resistance reading. In some case the first initial coil resistance reading is when the tank is half threaded down and the contacts are not 100%.
    This may have a variance in resistance of +/- 0.005ohms. This may not seem like a lot but in temp control and depending on how high\low your resistance is, it could be a deal breaker.
     

    Drewbacca96

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    Feb 16, 2017
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    Update on my Nano versus Exo single coil showdown! I've been using the Exo in 6ml configuration, and it is right about the same as the Nano on flavor. I'm still running both with 316L SS fused claptons, 26ga cores, 36ga clapton wrap both right around .2 ohms and firing at 50-55w. Running different juices in both now, and I've found that that is the deciding factor. Whichever juice I'm in the mood for is the tank that's on my Alien. Either way, both is working really well, I got them both for roughly the same price, and both are easy enough to build and wick. I honestly can't say that someone should for sure buy one or the other. I was concerned about the bottom airflow and juice flow control on the Exo as a possible leaking issue, but I've had no problems with it. So I guess in a round about way, my comparison has hit a stand still, and I probably haven't really helped anyone make a decision one way or the other. Lol Maybe I'll get the ammit 25 and throw it into the mix to see if I end up with a true 1st place for single coil rta. However at the moment the Nano and Exo are in a neck and neck tie, and I'm the real winner.

    I just read @ccwaters saying that the JFC can grab stray cotton fibers and get stuck in between the deck and chimney. Agreed, this can 100% happen. It happened to me, but I was low on juice and saw it when I checked the juice left. I spun the JFC around and around and eventually got it to tear the fibers out, unfortunately then I had a stray piece of cotton in my tank, SMH. Too OCD, had to pull the tank apart and get it out after that.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk
     

    Herrick

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    Sounds like it might be a refinement issue.
    Does the resistance of the coil change between a"good vape" and a "weak" vape?
    To figure this out you can plug your DNA to escribe with the atomizer analyzer open and let it sit for 5-10mins. Once that value is somewhat steady, lock the resistance and leave it locked. See if this gives you a more consistent vape experience

    Also what are you coils like? gauge? style? resistance? etc..

    I personally use the stock Steam Engine SS316L profile, but a lot of ppl prefer DJaquith V3 profile. From what I can tell it is basically the stock Steam Engine profile but resistance has been increased by 2% giving you a warmer vape.

    I mostly use SS316 24 gauge 3.5mm inner diameter coils at around .4 or .45 ohms. Some times the resistance changes and some times it's steady. But I was told not to lock the resistance on these DNA mods.

    There is definitely a baseline or cold resistance issue if it burned up one of your coils. The SS316L profile I posted is from DJaquith and it his V4 which is hotter but still shouldn't glow the coil unless there is a problem. I find the default SE SS316L profile to be too cool for me which is why I use the V4. There are many variations to SS wire across manufacturers and getting a great TC vape will require some tweaking.

    You can test this by just using the base of your EXO with no wick in the coil. Select your SS316L profile, set the power level to 50W and the temp to 440F. Hit the fire button with the atomizer off the DNA so you get the Check Atomizer screen, I do this to clear any previous settings. Screw your cold, wickless atomizer on and hit the fire button once quickly, it might ask you if it is a New Coil, if it does select yes. The measured resistance should be very close to what you know it should be, if it is way off then you have a connection problem with the base or your coils etc. If it is correct then hitting the fire button should not glow the coils red but quickly rise to the set 440F mark and show the Temperature screen. If the coils glow, the baseline resistance is not correct or you have some other wire type than what the profile is set for.

    Once you have a proper working baseline, it is much easier to diagnose builds that don't work.

    Thanks TrolDragon. I'll give that a try but alas, it won't be with the EXO RTA. I think I'm going to retire it officially. Between the leaking, flooding, & the top cap unscrewing the chimney (no matter how good I tighten that section) I've just about had it :) Now on to my next adventure of selecting another RTA.
     

    TrollDragon

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    I mostly use SS316 24 gauge 3.5mm inner diameter coils at around .4 or .45 ohms. Some times the resistance changes and some times it's steady. But I was told not to lock the resistance on these DNA mods.



    Thanks TrolDragon. I'll give that a try but alas, it won't be with the EXO RTA. I think I'm going to retire it officially. Between the leaking, flooding, & the top cap unscrewing the chimney (no matter how good I tighten that section) I've just about had it :) Now on to my next adventure of selecting another RTA.
    That is correct you do not lock the resistance on a DNA chipset, that will disable the refinement feature.

    Have a look at the Aromamizer Supreme V2, it is a top performer. I have two Supreme V2's, an original Supreme and the Supreme Lite. Steam Crave products are well made, they have an excellent customer service and a very active presence in the Facebook fan group. :thumbs:
     
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    Herrick

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    That is correct you do not lock the resistance on a DNA chipset, that will disable the refinement feature.

    Have a look at the Aromamizer Supreme V2, it is a top performer. I have two Supreme V2's, an original Supreme and the Supreme Lite. Steam Crave products are well made, they have an excellent customer service and a very active presence in the Facebook fan group. :thumbs:

    I think I looked into that one. They hold 5mls and I've read these things are juice hogs. There's another one that holds 7mls I think but I don't want something that huge :/
     
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