IJOY EXO SERIES TANKS (EXO S, EXO X, EXO XL, EXO RTA)
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Well....I got a silver base from a friend whose deck was bad...guess am back then!!!! (Atty readings still jumping though...am guessing it's not a good match with the rx2/3 in general) once it's sitting on the mod, the AFC os fixed ..no allowance for adjustments..it's cos the sitting flat on the mod and there's no space to twist.....well will manage till new gears come in the mail...
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
Not the best of pics sorry....seems some hairy stuff in my pocket got on the camera lensWell....I got a silver base from a friend whose deck was bad...guess am back then!!!! (Atty readings still jumping though...am guessing it's not a good match with the rx2/3 in general) once it's sitting on the mod, the AFC os fixed ..no allowance for adjustments..it's cos the sitting flat on the mod and there's no space to twist.....well will manage till new gears come in the mail...
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
So far the chimney has not gotten stuck to the build deck after the last time. The JFC is still kinda snug sometimes. And this tank hasn't flooded once which happened frequently with the previous tank. I haven't changed my wicking method so I don't know what's up with that.
As for the other problem I mentioned with the Therion 166 I finally said F It and locked the resistance. I've vaped it all day until the tank was empty then checked the coil. It's not burnt or messed up and the wicking (rayon) looks good.
As for the other problem I mentioned with the Therion 166 I finally said F It and locked the resistance. I've vaped it all day until the tank was empty then checked the coil. It's not burnt or messed up and the wicking (rayon) looks good.
So happy you stuck with the rayon
Me too! The flavor seems better and I like working with rayon a lot more.
Lets bring this old EXO thread back to life! 
Well it has finally happened, my EXO RTA was jumping resistance all over the place. A 65W vape on coil that jumps to 1.2Ω is a very pleasant experience, I'm still coughing... With each press of the fire button I could see the resistance going up on the mod. Checked post screws and removed/installed the single coil base a few times, but that did not fix the problem.
That night I contacted iJoy on their FB group page about a replacement base and chatted with one of their reps who informed me that a build/coil can change resistance. This rep was obviously just a Marketing/Social Media person who wasn't aware of any product issues so I really can't fault him for his answer. He also told me to send an email to iJoy service, since there are numerous people there who have been waiting months for replacement of defective products, I didn't bother with the email.
While sitting in the workshop I decided to take the EXO base apart and see what was what. It should be as simple as popping out the deck ring and I was later amazed how easy it was to do just that. The question was how to get that ring out, and luckily iJoy keeps the threading across most of their devices the same.
I also own a Limitless XL RTA and the XL2-S deck looked like a perfect candidate for the job.
I pushed out the plastic 510 post insulator from the EXO's base, screwed in the XL2-S base and set it posts down in the jaws of my vise. I set the jaws just wide enough to catch the JFC ring on but not damage it's threads. You don't need a vise, anything that would rest on the outer edge of the JFC ring would do like a large socket etc...
A 4mm rod or screw driver will fit down the 510 hole and a couple of gentle taps popped the deck ring and JFC ring free. I used a little fine emery cloth and sanded around the inside walls of the base where the deck ring fits. You don't have to make it totally shiny but more silver than black would be good. You are basically just scratching off the black paint in the area from the air slot to the top of the base, trying to expand the opening too much.
After the sanding and a quick wash, I put the JFC ring back on the base and pressed the deck ring still attached to the XL2-S deck back into the base with my vise. You could do this with a hammer or channel lock pliers if you were careful and made sure you pressed or tapped the ring back evenly.
The big test was to put my single coil deck back in and see if the resistance still jumped. No it did not, I put the base on another mod and the resistance was solid on it too. I bet I can even use the EXO with TC now where it would never work before.
I don't know how long this will last, but for now it has made a tank headed for the trash bin usable again.
The walls of the deck ring are not too thick, so you could take a center punch and put a couple of dimples in the side wall after you press it back together. That would make it fit tighter against the base and lessen the chance of it possibly loosening up down the road.
Cheers!
Well it has finally happened, my EXO RTA was jumping resistance all over the place. A 65W vape on coil that jumps to 1.2Ω is a very pleasant experience, I'm still coughing... With each press of the fire button I could see the resistance going up on the mod. Checked post screws and removed/installed the single coil base a few times, but that did not fix the problem.
That night I contacted iJoy on their FB group page about a replacement base and chatted with one of their reps who informed me that a build/coil can change resistance. This rep was obviously just a Marketing/Social Media person who wasn't aware of any product issues so I really can't fault him for his answer. He also told me to send an email to iJoy service, since there are numerous people there who have been waiting months for replacement of defective products, I didn't bother with the email.
While sitting in the workshop I decided to take the EXO base apart and see what was what. It should be as simple as popping out the deck ring and I was later amazed how easy it was to do just that. The question was how to get that ring out, and luckily iJoy keeps the threading across most of their devices the same.
I also own a Limitless XL RTA and the XL2-S deck looked like a perfect candidate for the job.
I pushed out the plastic 510 post insulator from the EXO's base, screwed in the XL2-S base and set it posts down in the jaws of my vise. I set the jaws just wide enough to catch the JFC ring on but not damage it's threads. You don't need a vise, anything that would rest on the outer edge of the JFC ring would do like a large socket etc...
A 4mm rod or screw driver will fit down the 510 hole and a couple of gentle taps popped the deck ring and JFC ring free. I used a little fine emery cloth and sanded around the inside walls of the base where the deck ring fits. You don't have to make it totally shiny but more silver than black would be good. You are basically just scratching off the black paint in the area from the air slot to the top of the base, trying to expand the opening too much.
After the sanding and a quick wash, I put the JFC ring back on the base and pressed the deck ring still attached to the XL2-S deck back into the base with my vise. You could do this with a hammer or channel lock pliers if you were careful and made sure you pressed or tapped the ring back evenly.
The big test was to put my single coil deck back in and see if the resistance still jumped. No it did not, I put the base on another mod and the resistance was solid on it too. I bet I can even use the EXO with TC now where it would never work before.
I don't know how long this will last, but for now it has made a tank headed for the trash bin usable again.
The walls of the deck ring are not too thick, so you could take a center punch and put a couple of dimples in the side wall after you press it back together. That would make it fit tighter against the base and lessen the chance of it possibly loosening up down the road.
Cheers!
I put mine away a month or so ago for no other reason than I had gotten new tanks to try. I had good luck with the exo with the single deck. I couldn't get the dual deck to work without bad leaking. You might just get me to get mine out again. I had ordered a captain rta but usps lost it and I never did get it. I put in a search request and talked to our mail carrier but had no luck. There was a sub delivering the day it was supposed to arrive. Maybe that person is a vaper.
I'll know where to send mine in for repair lol!Lets bring this old EXO thread back to life!
Well it has finally happened, my EXO RTA was jumping resistance all over the place. A 65W vape on coil that jumps to 1.2Ω is a very pleasant experience, I'm still coughing... With each press of the fire button I could see the resistance going up on the mod. Checked post screws and removed/installed the single coil base a few times, but that did not fix the problem.
That night I contacted iJoy on their FB group page about a replacement base and chatted with one of their reps who informed me that a build/coil can change resistance. This rep was obviously just a Marketing/Social Media person who wasn't aware of any product issues so I really can't fault him for his answer. He also told me to send an email to iJoy service, since there are numerous people there who have been waiting months for replacement of defective products, I didn't bother with the email.
While sitting in the workshop I decided to take the EXO base apart and see what was what. It should be as simple as popping out the deck ring and I was later amazed how easy it was to do just that. The question was how to get that ring out, and luckily iJoy keeps the threading across most of their devices the same.
I also own a Limitless XL RTA and the XL2-S deck looked like a perfect candidate for the job.
View attachment 684719
I pushed out the plastic 510 post insulator from the EXO's base, screwed in the XL2-S base and set it posts down in the jaws of my vise. I set the jaws just wide enough to catch the JFC ring on but not damage it's threads. You don't need a vise, anything that would rest on the outer edge of the JFC ring would do like a large socket etc...
A 4mm rod or screw driver will fit down the 510 hole and a couple of gentle taps popped the deck ring and JFC ring free. I used a little fine emery cloth and sanded around the inside walls of the base where the deck ring fits. You don't have to make it totally shiny but more silver than black would be good. You are basically just scratching off the black paint in the area from the air slot to the top of the base, trying to expand the opening too much.
After the sanding and a quick wash, I put the JFC ring back on the base and pressed the deck ring still attached to the XL2-S deck back into the base with my vise. You could do this with a hammer or channel lock pliers if you were careful and made sure you pressed or tapped the ring back evenly.
The big test was to put my single coil deck back in and see if the resistance still jumped. No it did not, I put the base on another mod and the resistance was solid on it too. I bet I can even use the EXO with TC now where it would never work before.
I don't know how long this will last, but for now it has made a tank headed for the trash bin usable again.
The walls of the deck ring are not too thick, so you could take a center punch and put a couple of dimples in the side wall after you press it back together. That would make it fit tighter against the base and lessen the chance of it possibly loosening up down the road.
Cheers!
Oh no
that s*cks.
My experience is 90% of jumping wattage cases are due coil not tighten properly, sometime this can also happen after few re-wick.Lets bring this old EXO thread back to life!
Well it has finally happened, my EXO RTA was jumping resistance all over the place. A 65W vape on coil that jumps to 1.2Ω is a very pleasant experience, I'm still coughing... With each press of the fire button I could see the resistance going up on the mod. Checked post screws and removed/installed the single coil base a few times, but that did not fix the problem.
That night I contacted iJoy on their FB group page about a replacement base and chatted with one of their reps who informed me that a build/coil can change resistance. This rep was obviously just a Marketing/Social Media person who wasn't aware of any product issues so I really can't fault him for his answer. He also told me to send an email to iJoy service, since there are numerous people there who have been waiting months for replacement of defective products, I didn't bother with the email.
While sitting in the workshop I decided to take the EXO base apart and see what was what. It should be as simple as popping out the deck ring and I was later amazed how easy it was to do just that. The question was how to get that ring out, and luckily iJoy keeps the threading across most of their devices the same.
I also own a Limitless XL RTA and the XL2-S deck looked like a perfect candidate for the job.
View attachment 684719
I pushed out the plastic 510 post insulator from the EXO's base, screwed in the XL2-S base and set it posts down in the jaws of my vise. I set the jaws just wide enough to catch the JFC ring on but not damage it's threads. You don't need a vise, anything that would rest on the outer edge of the JFC ring would do like a large socket etc...
A 4mm rod or screw driver will fit down the 510 hole and a couple of gentle taps popped the deck ring and JFC ring free. I used a little fine emery cloth and sanded around the inside walls of the base where the deck ring fits. You don't have to make it totally shiny but more silver than black would be good. You are basically just scratching off the black paint in the area from the air slot to the top of the base, trying to expand the opening too much.
After the sanding and a quick wash, I put the JFC ring back on the base and pressed the deck ring still attached to the XL2-S deck back into the base with my vise. You could do this with a hammer or channel lock pliers if you were careful and made sure you pressed or tapped the ring back evenly.
The big test was to put my single coil deck back in and see if the resistance still jumped. No it did not, I put the base on another mod and the resistance was solid on it too. I bet I can even use the EXO with TC now where it would never work before.
I don't know how long this will last, but for now it has made a tank headed for the trash bin usable again.
The walls of the deck ring are not too thick, so you could take a center punch and put a couple of dimples in the side wall after you press it back together. That would make it fit tighter against the base and lessen the chance of it possibly loosening up down the road.
Cheers!
I have 2 EXO RTA and I replace their Phillip screws with Hex 3*3 then use a screw driver like this to tighten them properly:
IJoy Rta does exhibit seeping, so occasionally, jumping wattage could also cause by ejuice that wets the 510 connector of the mod.
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That's good to know that your problem has been coil screws... I know there were countless owners of black RTA's that had base connectivity/resistance issues. When they replaced them with silver units, all those problems went away.
The ONLY time I have had any tank leak into the 510 on a mod, was with an authentic BFDFT, it had a poorly machined base. I immediately contacted CCI who shipped out a complete replacement BFDFT that same day. Also, all of the 510 connections on my squonkers are totally immersed in juice, funny they don't have any resistance issues.
My Black EXO has better o-ring inside the base, I suppose. It is relatively difficult for my to (turn) open/close both its AFC and JFC without attaching it to a mod compare to my Silver EXO. But then, the Black EXO never have juice seep from the join between glass tank and the base where else the Silver one just the opposite, I can adjust its JFC and AFC easily but it seeps. So, takes and gives...
Ya, I do observe most of the time e-juice inside the 510 connection hole won't cause problem (just looked dirty), but occasionally it will cause sort of short-circuit, when it does, it is a real hurt to your batteries and mod board.
You must be blessed by Thor all these days
, but you can't rely on good luck all the time... my advice is you would better dry the 510 connector as much as you can.
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