Joytech Cuboid 150w Problem

[Mr.Watkins]

Hi, guys. I've got a problem with my Cuboid. It is alternating between not detecting tanks and detecting them incorrectly (with absurdly high ohms). When a tank is detected, I can usually only get the mod to fire once before I get the "no atomizer found" message again. I am getting these same results with all (3, I'm still new to vaping) of my tanks. I opened the mod up, but didn't see anything glaringly obvious (I'm not an electrician... it would have to be a dangling wire or pool of liquid to be obvious to me), so I closed it up again. Still the same. Any thoughts on DIY solutions?

BTW, I did read a thread or two that mentioned problems with the 510 pin and attys longer than 4.5 mm. I Have definitely messed up on that front, but I didn't see a list of the errors and issues associated with damage to the 510 pin. Is this the issue? Is the replacement just a basic solder job that a one and a half handed, butterfingered, guy with the shakes could do?

An additional note is that I get these random readings and other issues without moving the tank... if I press up slightly on the non-hinged side of battery panel, the power will go off and on. I discovered this after the problem started, and I have been using it as a less-click-intensive method of checking for tank detection.

Oh, one last thing... the volts indicator is also going random on me. I have no Idea why or what it means. For example, the mod can show "no atty found" and read 6.15v, get reset, then show 6.65v, also with "no atty found".

 

[ModsAndRebuilds]

The 510 is terrible on the Cuboid but I think the problem is more to do with the the chip and main board. I've just changed mine to a FDV 510 and I'm still getting atomizer short issues.

As for changing the 510 it's not an easy job for a one and a half handed, butterfingered, guy with the shakes to complete. I'm just waiting in delivery of another FDV connector and once that arrives I'll hopefully, time permitting, be able to do a little tutorial in how to replace it.

 

[bzlytbeer]

My opinion - that sounds like a solder point or wire is not connected properly. The only thing that is bugging me from what you said is the point about what happens when you push on the battery door. Can you verify there is enough tension on the battery contacts?

 

[TechnoGeek]

The 510 is terrible on the Cuboid but I think the problem is more to do with the the chip and main board. I've just changed mine to a FDV 510 and I'm still getting atomizer short issues.

As for changing the 510 it's not an easy job for a one and a half handed, butterfingered, guy with the shakes to complete. I'm just waiting in delivery of another FDV connector and once that arrives I'll hopefully, time permitting, be able to do a little tutorial in how to replace it.

Good luck! I saw a post somewhere where someone did this, and it wasn't easy at all, the standard 510 is is sort of embedded in metal casing, acting like a heat sink. They had to drill, then tap, and still use some type of epoxy.
After doing all of this, the errors came back a day or so later. Sorry, I did a search, but I can't find the article, which had pictures of the process...

 

[gofishtx]

It sounds like your 510 pin is just stuck down. Take out the batteries and using a small flat head screw driver gently lift the 510 pin just a bit. All of the problems you describe can be caused from the atomizer not making a good connection with the 510 pin. Hope this helps

 

[absoluttalent]

Good luck! I saw a post somewhere where someone did this, and it wasn't easy at all, the standard 510 is is sort of embedded in metal casing, acting like a heat sink. They had to drill, then tap, and still use some type of epoxy.
After doing all of this, the errors came back a day or so later. Sorry, I did a search, but I can't find the article, which had pictures of the process...

I did that in the cuboid thread on the tc subsection. I can't link it from my phone at the moment

The whole top of the cuboid is a heatsink and the 510 is press fitted into it with the negative lead soldered onto another part. The joyetech 510 is really junky and smaller than a varitube replacement.

Ireally liked the cuboid feel and wanted to use it more. But it was just a cheap mass produced unit.
I've heard not as many problems on the grey units, but can still happen

 

[absoluttalent]

Found it,
Joyetech Cuboid 150 watt
Actually starts a few pages before the link, but pages 51 and 53, 54 has (most) my pictures

 

[Mr.Watkins]

Wow. I had a look at the tread mentioned and That really looks like a bit more trouble than I'm up for at the moment. Getting a new drill press this week (old one is just a frame you can attach a drill to), but I don't have a tap, either. And then there is the small problem of getting the parts in Indonesia. I suppose I should have thought of that first and not bothered you guys. Sorry. Hopefully you'll at least get some good karma.