Kamry K100

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pmac415

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Nov 29, 2012
31
9
North Carolina
@dupaloop3611 They are mods, not covers, but they are only about $18. You can also get the mod with cart, cover and drip tip for $23. A full kit for about $35.
 

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FINALLY de-sleeved. I also sanded down the base, leaving just a hint of the knurling. Just gotta touch up a little bit by the base on the main tube just above the bottom cap.

I also shortened the firing pin and cut both springs which gives it about a 1mm or maybe even less throw on the button. The gap you see on the locking ring there is the total throw distance of the button. I actually shortened it a little too much, so I have to use an upside down button top battery in 18350 shorty to get that very slight extra reach to the button. It works fine with my kick clone or with an 18650 with things right side up. Overall it's much shorter, only a hair taller than an 18650 battery, it also feels a lot less bulky and just a light touch gets it going, yet still locks fine when I want it to with 2 twists of the ring.

How did you get it off? I just took a grinding bit and a dremel and cut it off. Didn't grind the bottom yet. That is coming this weekend. I love the way this feels now. Nice and slim.
 
Yes, yes I have.

To get the 510 connection portion off of the top of the chrome tube, place a deep well socket inside tube and tap with a hammer, it is press fit.

To disassemble switch: Pull plastic ring with big spring out of switch housing, (This is not the switch spring, this just holds the proper distance between battery and switch contact pin and holds battery against 510 post).

Push up on switch to get better access and remove c-clip, slide switch out bottom. (Be careful of the switch spring on bottom as you separated switch from housing.

Sand until you expose brass:
Switch pin (connects to negative side of battery)
510 connection (on battery positive side)
510 connection (on atty side) I did not disassemble the 510 connector, I just used care sanding this portion in place. Did a little scraping with surgical scissors to loosen plating then sanded, this sped things up.

Reassemble:
Use caution with small parts I.E. c-clip and spring.
Use caution replacing 510 connection head on tube, do not let it go on crooked. I put the tube on a piece od wood on my desk and a small piece of wood on the connector (protects your hand and the piece), lined it up and leaned on it to apply pressure to start it out true in the tube. Tap it in with a hammer hitting the wood or continue to use body weight to seat flush.

Apply a light coat of valsiline to switch housing threads and telescope tube threads, wipe off with paper towel.

My PV resistance dropped by almost 1/2Ω and threads are very smooth with no binding.


That sounds great! I've seen people take the ribbed tubing (bottom tube, closest to the spring and negative) off of the tubing under it, which gives it a sleek look. Would you know how to do that?
 
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