Question about the new V2 OCC vertical coils, can they still be rewicked with new cotton easy? It was very easy to pull it out and put a new piece in the old ones....
KangerTech SUBTANK Mini
- Thread starter Vap0rnomics
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
I don't have any of the new coils but as they're vertical I'm 99% sure that it'll be impossible to simply rewick them. You'll need to build a new coil, wick it, and then place it all in the coil housing.
Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk
I have to disagree here, looking at them, I feel it is going to be way more difficult than you think. I certainly wouldn't like to do it..
Actually I think you're agreeing, as I do, unless I misread it. The housing on the vertical OCC (VOCC?) that came with my "V2" STM seems to be a single piece which complicates things further.
Oh dear, yes I misread it completely, ah, my mistake, then yes I agree lol....sorry about that
You are forgiven ;-)Oh dear, yes I misread it completely, ah, my mistake, then yes I agree lol....sorry about that
Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk
Pretty sure someone cut one open and posted pics to this forum just the other day, there are quite a lot of different threads about these tanks and coils. But last time I checked, getting these coils taken apart without destroying bits you need to reuse is still the challenge at the moment.
I know I'm late to the party, but just got my first mini, the new version and I love this tank... so simple to use and so many configs!
Using the .5 coil now and can't wait to try the rebuildable deck.
Had to switch out the orings to the black ones though, but great thing is it came with the tank.
Big hit for Kanger IMO.
Using the .5 coil now and can't wait to try the rebuildable deck.
Had to switch out the orings to the black ones though, but great thing is it came with the tank.
Big hit for Kanger IMO.
I built on a 1.0 ohm on the deck, which was SUPER easy to build on, wicked it up and its vaping like a dream, with great flavor and lots of vapor. Couldn't be happier!
Yeah, I built a 1ohm coil in my subtank yesterday. Loving it so far! Vapes just as good as my .5ohm builds I've been running!
Right? Res has little to do with flavor or vapor production with regulated mods as long as you have enough wick/coil contact. Go with it. My best flavor EVER with kanthal is a .9 ohm twisted 29g. Granted it was a spaced 6 wrap 2.8mm coil and took some jockying of the coil legs to fit the narrow build profile of the STmini build deck but it is worth it for sure; flavor for days!
Totally man! I'm starting to think 1ohm might be the sweet spot for me with this tank. Next time I build it, I may go a tad lower and see how that works. That's part of the fun of building!
I was on fasttech for the first time last night, and oh man was my cart piling up its awesome! Is there a sub tank mini v2? I saw v2 components and figured if there is a v2 version I should get that, but haven't found it on the site as of yet.
Thanks, but I waS looking for the whole tank assy, but I did find the sub tank mini v2 on that site. It looks like the only difference is two airflow slots on the v2 as opposed to one on the original or v1?
If thats the case I may actually want the v1 as I'm looking for the tightest draw possible, I prefer mouth to lung inhale over direct lung.
If thats the case I may actually want the v1 as I'm looking for the tightest draw possible, I prefer mouth to lung inhale over direct lung.
Coil size, how much wick and target resistance: I'm a bit "on the fence" here.
For resistance we have AWG, ID and # of coil wraps. My current target for TC use is 0.15-0.20 ohms. I've been able to stuff 5-9 wraps of 28-30AWG NI200 in the STM RBA.
When I started building my STM's I figured "more is better" and was making 3-3.5mm ID coils with as much wick as I could compress and twist inside the coil and RBA, just used a toothpick to clear the juice channels.
However my current build of twisted 32AWG with 2.5mm ID and very lightly wicked (using the cottons natural "fluff") with no stuffing involved.
So given my target resistance can be reached with a wide margin of wraps, ID and AWG and I vape mostly 90-100% VG juices, I tend to still think that (for thicker juices) larger ID is better (more 'reserve area' for juice in core) and thicker juices wick better with 'fluffy' transport better than thick and compressed transport.
Both schools of thought seem to work for me so am I missing something here? Do smaller ID coils vape better than large ID coils? Is 'less is more' when it comes to wick?
Granted my vaping @ 20J/380F might be to pedestrian to flesh out the differences in the schools of thought, so I thought I'd ask.
For resistance we have AWG, ID and # of coil wraps. My current target for TC use is 0.15-0.20 ohms. I've been able to stuff 5-9 wraps of 28-30AWG NI200 in the STM RBA.
When I started building my STM's I figured "more is better" and was making 3-3.5mm ID coils with as much wick as I could compress and twist inside the coil and RBA, just used a toothpick to clear the juice channels.
However my current build of twisted 32AWG with 2.5mm ID and very lightly wicked (using the cottons natural "fluff") with no stuffing involved.
So given my target resistance can be reached with a wide margin of wraps, ID and AWG and I vape mostly 90-100% VG juices, I tend to still think that (for thicker juices) larger ID is better (more 'reserve area' for juice in core) and thicker juices wick better with 'fluffy' transport better than thick and compressed transport.
Both schools of thought seem to work for me so am I missing something here? Do smaller ID coils vape better than large ID coils? Is 'less is more' when it comes to wick?
Granted my vaping @ 20J/380F might be to pedestrian to flesh out the differences in the schools of thought, so I thought I'd ask.
The build deck is also redesigned:
12:22:
Here is a clone of it on FT:
$2.97 Replacement Rebuildable RBA Plus Coil Head for SUBTANK Mini Clearomizer - 0.5ohm at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
They don't have the new minis on FT yet that I'm aware of.
Yes, the v1 allows the air to be shut off all the way, which in mine still allows a miniscule amount to air to be drawn from it. The RBA is different on the 2 versions as well but both work amazing once you get the wicking figured out.
Now it doesn't look like Kanger is labeling these as different versions, they are just phasing one out and replacing with the next. This is true of the OCCs as well. Adding the terms v1 and v2 is something people have added to keep things straight while Kanger does their endless cycle of improvements.
- Status
Similar threads
- Locked