Metal 18490
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Rob you are a master of your craft, Looks fantastic!!!!!!!! 
I have to round the corners and she is ready for blue prints
Rob you are a master of your craft, Looks fantastic!!!!!!!!
+ 1 amen!!
The best!!!!!
Ever just run hot water thru any of your woods No cuz you can't but the mechanicals can
I'm not so sure your wires would have "fried....many times over." My place is home of the "swimming" REOs. I don't intentionally let them take a dunk but they like to jump out of my hands, to take a ''swim,'' while I'm in my spa. They all sink, btw. It may be better for the metals to "swim" but I hate getting out of the spa to go in to get another REO. Okay, I should take a second one out but there is another reason I choose the Woods, with the wired switch. Some of my Woods have 801 fitting. The 801 atty is the best atty, that I have found, for full immersion, then a quick blowout, and ready to resume vaping as soon as the battery is wiped off, and the mod is wiped down inside and out.
I can spend as much as 3 or more hours in the spa (at 100F or less to avoid hyperthermia) and I do get so relaxed that I don't exercise full control over my little guys all the time.
I keep the Woods heavily waxed inside and out so the water basically rolls off and doesn't soak into the bare wood on the inside. I wouldn't let them sit in water, but so far, none have seemed to be affected by the dunkings.
I'm hoping the Stabilized will have less possibility of damage from too much "swimming."
Alice
Dear Robert , awesome mod on the way i see -
A mechanical switch would be my vote too .... can i / may i ... book/ pre-order one now !!!
hope these will be available sooooon .
wishing you well
warm regards
Sahil .
A mechanical switch would be my vote too .... can i / may i ... book/ pre-order one now !!!
hope these will be available sooooon .
wishing you well
warm regards
Sahil .
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I've been rethinking the wired vs mechanical switch on the metal 18490s. The metal is certainly wash and wear, after the "black box" is thoroughly dried out, but my Wood REOs have certainly not been harmed in any way by frequent "swimming." That is the switches have held up well and fire immediately after the inside has been wiped out. I wouldn't, though, leave a WOOD soaking in water for any length of time.
Most people, especially you youngsters, most who don't have arthritis in hands, really can't appreciate how much the placement of the button makes or breaks using a mod, due to discomfort to extreme pain, caused by the placement of some buttons. I don't have so much trouble but 76.5 year old DH is limited in some things he can and cannot do because of his arthritic hands and extreme pain some actions cause. Unscrewing a jar, that is not even on tightly causes, extreme pain in his wrists. The action of firing the top button on the metal REOs is uncomfortable for him.
One of the issues I have with "allowing" my metal REOs to "swim" or not has to do with water retention behind the black cover of firing pin, or what I call the black box. After immersion, there is water "in" the black box that cannot be wiped out like I can do on the wired button connections of the Woods. I see the potential for either the wired or mechanical, left in water, with battery still in, as has happened to at least one metal REO, "the water cooler incident," has the potential to cause shorts.
I don't know if the wired connection has any more propensity to short out than the mechanical. We won't really know until that is tested. I do know, for a fact, that I personally, have had many more springs collapse, on the metal REOs, mechanical, than the Woods, wired, due, most usually to faulty insulators, between +/- sections of attys/cartos. I don't know if that proves or disproves anything though. Rarely do my metals get to "swim" although they do get regular baths. My regular "swimmers" are the Woods. I have never used a wet metal after it has gotten wet inside. I do it all the time with the Woods.
The wired is actually a much simpler firing system than the mechanical . All you have to do is look behind the black delrin cover to see this.
Perhaps, at some point Robert will offer both. I hope so.
It looks to me that virtually all or all responders have voted for the mechanical. But, as I see it, there is a "market" for the wired. I know that is what DH would want if he was voting. Over the past year and half, that I have had REOs and been a member of ECF and REOsmods forum, I have seen several people who do have issues with the placement of the mechanical button. I really don't see how the REO mechanical button can be placed in any other position.
So I'd like to change my vote to "undecided."
Hugs, Alice
Most people, especially you youngsters, most who don't have arthritis in hands, really can't appreciate how much the placement of the button makes or breaks using a mod, due to discomfort to extreme pain, caused by the placement of some buttons. I don't have so much trouble but 76.5 year old DH is limited in some things he can and cannot do because of his arthritic hands and extreme pain some actions cause. Unscrewing a jar, that is not even on tightly causes, extreme pain in his wrists. The action of firing the top button on the metal REOs is uncomfortable for him.
One of the issues I have with "allowing" my metal REOs to "swim" or not has to do with water retention behind the black cover of firing pin, or what I call the black box. After immersion, there is water "in" the black box that cannot be wiped out like I can do on the wired button connections of the Woods. I see the potential for either the wired or mechanical, left in water, with battery still in, as has happened to at least one metal REO, "the water cooler incident," has the potential to cause shorts.
I don't know if the wired connection has any more propensity to short out than the mechanical. We won't really know until that is tested. I do know, for a fact, that I personally, have had many more springs collapse, on the metal REOs, mechanical, than the Woods, wired, due, most usually to faulty insulators, between +/- sections of attys/cartos. I don't know if that proves or disproves anything though. Rarely do my metals get to "swim" although they do get regular baths. My regular "swimmers" are the Woods. I have never used a wet metal after it has gotten wet inside. I do it all the time with the Woods.
The wired is actually a much simpler firing system than the mechanical . All you have to do is look behind the black delrin cover to see this.
Perhaps, at some point Robert will offer both. I hope so.
It looks to me that virtually all or all responders have voted for the mechanical. But, as I see it, there is a "market" for the wired. I know that is what DH would want if he was voting. Over the past year and half, that I have had REOs and been a member of ECF and REOsmods forum, I have seen several people who do have issues with the placement of the mechanical button. I really don't see how the REO mechanical button can be placed in any other position.
So I'd like to change my vote to "undecided."
Hugs, Alice
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My vote is for the mechanical. It would be nice, if the button could be a little more wider and less tall.
Now it is like "o", i would love to get a "O". Know what I mean?
Yours Fippes
Now it is like "o", i would love to get a "O". Know what I mean?
Yours Fippes
Mechanical FTW
I'll just buy more wood mods to feed my side button need........
Wait ...??? Would the wired button be on the top ?????????
I'll just buy more wood mods to feed my side button need........
Wait ...??? Would the wired button be on the top ?????????
Either way, just get it going.
I´d probably would go with the mechanical, but i heard there is some more resistance within that.
Anyways just do both ways and let the costumer choose.
I just want a Mini sized Grand powered Reo, thats an awesome idea, can`t wait.
I´d probably would go with the mechanical, but i heard there is some more resistance within that.
Anyways just do both ways and let the costumer choose.
I just want a Mini sized Grand powered Reo, thats an awesome idea, can`t wait.
Yes the button would be on the top .I will make a few mods like this and post picks .I have to make a couple delrin inserts first a job I am not looking forward to .Mechanical FTW
I'll just buy more wood mods to feed my side button need........
Wait ...??? Would the wired button be on the top ?????????
"I keep the Woods heavily waxed inside and out so the water basically rolls off and doesn't soak into the bare wood on the inside."
What do you use to wax the inside? Something like Howard's beeswax? I've been trying to make sure I have my mini with me when I'm with the horses or in other situations (like, as you mentioned, the Jacuzzi) where the wood on my 18490 could get damaged, but, Murphy's Law and all that... I'm also not the neatest person when changing bottles at this point.
And, I would vote undecided on the button issue - positioning for my less than 100% functioning hands vs mechanical - that's a tough one, isn't it?
What do you use to wax the inside? Something like Howard's beeswax? I've been trying to make sure I have my mini with me when I'm with the horses or in other situations (like, as you mentioned, the Jacuzzi) where the wood on my 18490 could get damaged, but, Murphy's Law and all that... I'm also not the neatest person when changing bottles at this point.
And, I would vote undecided on the button issue - positioning for my less than 100% functioning hands vs mechanical - that's a tough one, isn't it?
The Howard's Feed and Wax is great for the inside also. I always put a coat on the inside and let it sit and dry. Wipe off any excess. I use a Q-tip and make sure all the crevices are coated. Howard's contains: a unique blend of carnauba wax, beeswax and orange oil. Howard's SunShield also contains UV protection. Some of the exotic woods will turn or lose color when exposed to UV.
Thanks for the quick response, Nerak! I have Feed and Wax on hand which I'll use right away, and will get some Sunshield. I wouldn't want want the wood to turn - it's gorgeous! I consider Howard's products a staple around here - I am remiss in not having Sunshield
Waxing the inside will help to protect the wood from juices. DH used his Figured Redwood Mini for several months before I got it cleaned up and waxed inside. He did have some bottle leaks and the juice soaked into the bare wood. (He was not screwing the top on well enough.) It stained it some, too. Also, the door became a slightly warped. I don't normally go "several months" without cleaning any of the REOs but DH just wouldn't turn it over to me. When we got the Bublinga in (Classies) I immediately waxed it and turned it over to him. I cleaned his Redwood with alcohol, inside only, and let it sit to air for many weeks and then waxed the inside. I should have put it in rice to maybe draw more moisture out. It's currently in rice now but there probably isn't any more moisture that can be drawn out.
I use the Howard's inside and let it soak in for a day or so. And then it is very important to get all the excess wax cleaned out or you will get some Howard's "taste" to your vapor. Juice doesn't have direct contact with the Howard's, of course, but the "scent" mixes with the air drawn into the atty/carto.
Don't make the mistake I made a couple of months ago either. (I should post this in the Dumb Things thread.) I wanted to wax all of my Woods, all REOs except for one Lacewood Phidias (that's one reason why I didn't snap up a Lacewood 18490 and I want to collect other woods I don't have yet). To make soaking the insides easier I took the bottles off. I put them all in a big bowl and slathered a whole bunch of Howard's on each and pooling inside each. I let most of them sit, with bowl covered, for several days. Wax came into contact with all areas of the Woods including the catch-cups. When I took them all out, in several sessions, I didn't clean the inside very well when I was buffing them. I, also, didn't clean the tubing and catch-cup. I put them all into the closed cabinet with their respective doors on. The cabinet reeks of Howard's now. Probably a dish of fresh coffee grounds will absorb the smell after I get all the excess wax cleaned out of them.
Not very smart............
When I went to use one I just casually ran some room temp alcohol into the catch cup and down into the tube collecting it in bottle. Dried and started vaping. HOWARD'S SMELLS GREAT BUT NOT FUN MIXED WITH JUICE NOR SCENT MIXING WITH AIR COMING THROUGH ATTY/CARTO!!!!!!!!!!
So each wood has to be cleaned out, on the inside, with non fuzzy cloth or shop paper towel, using alcohol. I picked up some small model paint dabbers, the other day to get into the tiniest places. I left so much wax in them, that then congeled there were globs of yellow. AND each catch-cup has to be cleaned, several times, with hot alcohol and various tools to get the wax out of the threading. I use small humming bird feed hole cleaning brush and tiny wads of blue shop paper towels (they don't shred and snag like cotton does). Then the tubing needs to be cleaned with hot alcohol internal and outside, collecting alcohol in a bottle. Then the bottle needs to be cleaned with hot alcohol and then hot soapy water.
You can use small tipped tweezers to hold the paper wadding but if you have any hand issues, like I do, you'll do better with small ended hemostats, that can be clipped closed. We have gads of medical instruments, from tiny to large, that we use for all kinds of things, around the house.
This is a real hassle and I won't make the mistake again!!!!!! I'm not using most of my Woods as I haven't done a good cleaning on them yet.
Most of my Woods will never get anywhere near the pool, spa, a sink with water in it, or the bathtub. The purpleheart is so closed grain I never worried too much about moisture affecting it. Same with the Curly Oaks. I did use the 801 Curly Oak, in the spa, for weeks, before I found out about Howard's, and it took several dunkings. The only noticable difference between the Curly Oak 510 that has never been swimming and the Curly Oak 801 that took several "swims" before good waxing, is that the figuring on the "swimmer" is a bit darker. Since I started waxing them well the darker has not gotten any darker. None of the doors have become out of shape. None of the groves or door edges have swelled.
Again, most of my woods will never get close to bodies of water.
There are varying degrees of protection offered by the stabilization process. Some woods and processes will make the wood virtually impervious to water absorption. Others not so much. My new Red Stabilized has been well waxed inside, and out, but has yet to take a trip to the spa. I'm hoping it will become my only "swimmer" but I won't know if it will take that position until it makes a few trips to the spa. The first indication of moisture issues, I think, will be a change in how the door slides into the grove. Purpleheart and Curly Oak never showed any signs of door sliding issues.
I would think any of the very closed pore woods, especially the naturally oily ones, would be suitable. I don't advocate letting REOs of any kind joining a "swim team" and I don't casually let my "swimmers" take a dip, but sometimes they insists and get their way.
Hugs, Alice
Wow - thank you, Alice! I have copied and pasted the replies from you and nerak to my Reo info file. Considering our 18490s are jatoba/curly maple and oak/wenge, I think I'll just give them a rub-down as suggested and share my metal mini with my spousal unit when both of us are Jacuzzi-ing and/or playing with our horses. Then, on to a metal 18490 later - patience, patience
The insides of ours aren't stained with juice so far, because I've used a little alcohol on the spills immediately. The waxing is the ticket because I was concerned about drying the wood out with the alcohol.And, oh my, I can't imagine what tasting Howard's would be like, as good as it smells. So, a special thanks for helping me avoid it!
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