Need Advice! SIGELEI 213

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DonJonQ8

Full Member
Aug 28, 2016
10
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Hi Everyone, Im so glad i could find a forum for the sigelei 213.
I just bought the mod yesterday, and i must say I like everything about it, from its looks to the feel of it. Brings me to my question, why does the mod get hot? Am I doing something wrong. I seriously need help here. I have attached a screen shot of the battery Im using as well as the settings. Could you check and tell me if the settings I have it on are right or wrong?
Current readings:
Watts: 35.0
Volts: 2.59
Ohms: 0.19
Amp: 17
Battery Type: AWT 18650 3000MAH/ 3.7V / 40A
Please tell me what Im doing wrong here. Much appreciated. - Joe



dLFqC
kUM0X
 

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IMFire3605

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
May 3, 2013
2,041
3,148
Blue Rapids, KS, US
Hi Everyone, Im so glad i could find a forum for the Sigelei 213.
I just bought the mod yesterday, and i must say I like everything about it, from its looks to the feel of it. Brings me to my question, why does the mod get hot? Am I doing something wrong. I seriously need help here. I have attached a screen shot of the battery Im using as well as the settings. Could you check and tell me if the settings I have it on are right or wrong?
Current readings:
Watts: 35.0
Volts: 2.59
Ohms: 0.19
Amp: 17
Battery Type: AWT 18650 3000MAH/ 3.7V / 40A
Please tell me what Im doing wrong here. Much appreciated. - Joe

1) The AWT 3000mah is not a 40amp CDR battery, it is a 20amp CDR battery with a 40amp pulse. AWT is one of many brands that re-wrap batteries bought from the big 4 manufactures, LG, Samsung, Sony, and Panasonic/Sanyo, then over spec what the manufacturer specified. 3000mah that battery is most likely a B or C bin discard LG HG2 or Samsung 30Q, these are batteries that didn't pass authentic muster to begin with. Being you are getting heating up the batteries are part of the problem, so at 35watts with a 0.19 ohm coil you are pulling almost 14amps of 20amps CDR available, this stress causes the battery to heat up slightly over continuous usage.
2) Another cause of heat is from the atomizer/tank heat you are making to vape has to go somewhere, so transmits from the coils to the base to the mod/atomizer connection out through the mod. This heat transmission is compounded upon if you chain vape continuously, so give the mod a break every 5 minutes or so for about 10minutes should cool things down a bit.
3) Biggest piece of advice, get better batteries that are authentics, they are cheaper than a re-wrap, are safer, and 95% what they say they are, link in my signature will take you to a blog I have done breaking down most of the best batteries and other information to read over as well as where to get authentic batteries/chargers online.

Stay safe out there.
 

Two_Bears

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jul 4, 2015
7,045
16,673
Northern Arizona
Hi Everyone, Im so glad i could find a forum for the Sigelei 213.
I just bought the mod yesterday, and i must say I like everything about it, from its looks to the feel of it. Brings me to my question, why does the mod get hot? Am I doing something wrong. I seriously need help here. I have attached a screen shot of the battery Im using as well as the settings. Could you check and tell me if the settings I have it on are right or wrong?
Current readings:
Watts: 35.0
Volts: 2.59
Ohms: 0.19
Amp: 17
Battery Type: AWT 18650 3000MAH/ 3.7V / 40A
Please tell me what Im doing wrong here. Much appreciated. - Joe



dLFqC
kUM0X

No such thing as a 40 amp battery.

Mod getting hot is from two causes snd neither of them good.

1. Stressing THR batteries
2. The curcuit board getting hot.

I would change batteries for a Samsung 25R. Samsung 30q, LG HG2, etc.

Some batteries can hit 30 amps or more as a Pulse but a sustained PULL is only good for 20-25 amps.
 
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dcfluegel

Shenaniganator
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Apr 9, 2015
12,893
32,115
Cleveland TN
in addition to the battery insight above, you are running a .19 ohm coil at 35 watts - i'd imagine it takes a little time for them to ramp up and start producing a decent vape - that being said, some of the heat generated in the atty may be transferring to the mod, also
 

DonJonQ8

Full Member
Aug 28, 2016
10
1
44
No such thing as a 40 amp battery.

Mod getting hot is from two causes snd neither of them good.

1. Stressing THR batteries
2. The curcuit board getting hot.

I would change batteries for a Samsung 25R. Samsung 30q, LG HG2, etc.

Some batteries can hit 30 amps or more as a Pulse but a sustained PULL is only good for 20-25 amps.


Hi, Can you tell me what configuration I should run the 213 at? After all the feedback received so far Im a bit skeptical and need help figuring this out.
Could you tell me what should I vape at: ? Which would be considered safe for vaping...
Ohms:
Volts:
Watts:
Temp:
Amp:
Battery Type:
 

DonJonQ8

Full Member
Aug 28, 2016
10
1
44
Hi, Can you tell me what configuration I should run the 213 at? After all the feedback received so far Im a bit skeptical and need help figuring this out.

Could you tell me what should I vape at: ? Which would be considered safe for vaping...
Ohms:
Volts:
Watts:
Temp:
Amp:
Battery Type:

Ive got the Gemini RTA with the coils that were sent with the box itself.
 

BrotherBob

ECF Guru
ECF Veteran
Dec 24, 2014
13,807
12,308
Sunnyvale,CA,USA
Welcome and glad you joined.
Might like to read:
18650 Battery Buying Guide for Vapor Users – Wake and Vape Blog
(9) Battery Basics for Mods; the Ultimate Battery Guide | E-Cigarette Forum
(12) Deeper Understanding of Mod Batteries - Part I | E-Cigarette Forum
Battery Safety: Will You Marry Me? - Mt Baker Vapor
At what recommended specs should I vape at?

Could try to simplify your vaping and stay away from intermediate and advanced vape setups, which can present many vaping problematic unknowns to the beginner. Recommend going back to the basics and read:
Learn About Vaping Here - Everything Ecigs - From Beginner To Advanced
My thoughts about sub-ohm and latest VV/VW devices...
Nothing wrong with sub-ohm'g if done right and in the hands of an experienced vaper.
 
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djsvapour

ECF Guru
ECF Veteran
Oct 2, 2012
11,822
7,901
England and Wales
Hi, I have changed the Tank to the Innokin iSub 5ml tank and the readings now show as:
Ohm: 0.47
Volt: 3.78
Amp:07
Watts: 30.0
The battery is the same which is the AWT IMR 18650 3.7V 3000MAH 40A.

Please let me know if this is safe to use. Im still not very clear on what the ohms should be according to the battery.

To me, that is perfectly fine.
I have been staying clear of this thread but would like to comment.
These AWT IMRs have been tested and are generally good batteries other than the claimed 40 amp.
If you are using 2 of them and your Sigelei is at those levels you are not to worry. It says 07 amps, but the real figure is nearer 08 amps - I am not sure what Sigelei are doing with this system.
Its all most unscientific rounding down to the nearest full number. It should say 7.9amps or whatever the calculation is (forgive me)....
If those batteries are perfectly good for 20 amps, then just stay under 100 watts (with a 2 battery mod) and you'll be OK. **
I doubt the iSub coils will want to go anywhere near even 50w. That would be madness and asking for trouble.

** you could potentially go higher than 100w with a pair of really top batteries without feeling you are taking risks.
 
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DonJonQ8

Full Member
Aug 28, 2016
10
1
44
Hi, I have changed the Tank to the Innokin iSub 5ml tank and the readings now show as:
Ohm: 0.47
Volt: 3.78
Amp:07
Watts: 30.0
The battery is the same which is the AWT IMR 18650 3.7V 3000MAH 40A.

Please let me know if this is safe to use. Im still not very clear on what the ohms should be according to the battery.

Thank you for the feedback and advice...I keep observing the voltage on the batteries that keep fluctuating whenever I increase the wattage on the MOD.
For eg. When i increase the wattage from 30 to 35, the voltage shows 4.08 / 08 Amps / 0.47 Ohms.
The battery voltage on the right side of the screen shows the voltage of both batteries (keeps fluctuating) but when I increase the wattage to 35 watts, the voltage on those show 3.84 and 3.89. Is that something I should worry about?
 

Gramdogg

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Apr 22, 2016
1,457
1,030
43
Fredericton NB Canada
Hi, I have changed the Tank to the Innokin iSub 5ml tank and the readings now show as:
Ohm: 0.47
Volt: 3.78
Amp:07
Watts: 30.0
The battery is the same which is the AWT IMR 18650 3.7V 3000MAH 40A.

Please let me know if this is safe to use. Im still not very clear on what the ohms should be according to the battery.
Is it still getting hot? The ohms don't have a "safety" rating, it's just used in ohms law which is for mech mod math. Your mod displays amps so just go by that. It shouldn't be heating up with your old build either, either your batteries or heat transfer from tank as stated. The problems with B and C bin batteries are not that they are any worse then the companies who made them but they didn't pass high standards tests the companies put them though so you and IWT have no clue if it's a minor problem that won't affect it or problem that will case it to not work as well. Usually not a problem for other devices they are used for (flash lights, laptops,RC copters etc) because they don't run anywhere near the Amps we do it's mostly just for the Mah's. Faulty Efest batteries have been shown to vent and burn at around 13A, same would go for any rewrap. 3 posts = LG, 4 posts = Samsung I believe.
 
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IMFire3605

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
May 3, 2013
2,041
3,148
Blue Rapids, KS, US
Hi, Can you tell me what configuration I should run the 213 at? After all the feedback received so far Im a bit skeptical and need help figuring this out.
Could you tell me what should I vape at: ? Which would be considered safe for vaping...
Ohms:
Volts:
Watts:
Temp:
Amp:
Battery Type:

All I can give is a bit of advice here of how I run my sub-ohm rebuildables.
1) Ohms I'm generally in the 0.5 to 0.75ohm range, I like more flavor with a decent amount of vapor which equates to more wire to wick contact with thinner wire than most use, generally my sub-ohm RTA's I use 26awg, want to bump my resistance higher I use 28awg wire for my builds then. Safety wise on a regulated mod like the 213, you just have to stay above it's minimum resistance it will fire and you are actually pretty fine, the chipset handles the rest of the variables, on a mech/unregulated even with 30amp CDR batteries, dual parallel mech lowest build is 0.14ohm, dual battery series about 0.55 to 0.6ohms lowest, single battery about 0.25ohms lowest.
2)Watts and Volts go hand in hand, (Voltage Squared / Resistance (ohms)=watts, so I run about 30 to 40 watts on these, which equate between 3.7 to 4.4volts depending on the build.
3) Temp is an entirely different beast due to the different wire materials, and I run these by liquid flavor dependent variables (some liquids I like warm like my rich RY4 tobacco flavors or coffee flavors to cooler with a fruity flavor). Nickel Ni200 setups I am in the 0.12 to 0.18ohm range on a dripper, watts about 40 to 50watts, temperatures 380F to 490F, Titanium Ti1 setups I'm in the 0.25 to 0.35ohm range, same watts and same temps. Stainless steel coils I'm in the 0.4ohm range, 50 to 60watts in the 400 to 520F temp ranges.
4) Amps - this I can give a little more focused information, this is electricity, so "Ohm's Law" applies, volts, watts, resistance, and amps all go hand in hand. On a mechanical unregulated mod where the only voltage throttle is the charge level of the battery, to figure out how safe our builds are we use this formula (voltage (fresh charge battery is 4.2v where the highest amp draw will be so we use that figure)/resistance (your ohms)=amps [exampes - 4.2v / 1ohm=4.2amps, 4.2v/0.5ohms=8.4amps, 4.2v/0.25ohms=16.8amps]
With a regulated mod, we still use "Ohm's Law" but a different formula of (Watts/Lowest Battery Voltage/Mod Effieciency=Amps) [examples - single battery mod 60watts maximum output, most mod shutoff at about 3.2v, so we get 60watts/3.2v=18.75/90% Mod effieciency=20.83333_ Amps, being that you are using dual battery series mod which the batteries have the same mah and amp limit so those figures stay the same, yet voltage is doubled, so example here using your figures above we get 35watts/6.4v (3.2v per battery X2)=5.46875/90%=6.076388888888889 or 6.0764amps rounded up]
5) Batteries - buy them from reputable and authorized distributors (Illumn.com, IMRBatteries.com, Liionwholesale.com, Orbtronic.com, RTDVapor.com if in the States are the most suggested resellers), second there are mainly 3 brands suggested, LG, Samsung, Sony want model numbers and excellent independent testing spec sheets check out @Mooch he's our resident battery tester and there is also torchythebatteryboy over at the UKVapers forum, but for your vaping style, there are these 4 models that will work excellent for you, good run time and good CDR, Samsung 30Q (3000mah 20amps), LG HG2 (3000mah 20amps), AW IMR 3000mah 20amps, Sony VTC6 (3000mah, 15amp factory cdr spec like the 30Q is but Mooch up the safe CDR to about 19amps almost 20amps)
 
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DonJonQ8

Full Member
Aug 28, 2016
10
1
44
All I can give is a bit of advice here of how I run my sub-ohm rebuildables.
1) Ohms I'm generally in the 0.5 to 0.75ohm range, I like more flavor with a decent amount of vapor which equates to more wire to wick contact with thinner wire than most use, generally my sub-ohm RTA's I use 26awg, want to bump my resistance higher I use 28awg wire for my builds then. Safety wise on a regulated mod like the 213, you just have to stay above it's minimum resistance it will fire and you are actually pretty fine, the chipset handles the rest of the variables, on a mech/unregulated even with 30amp CDR batteries, dual parallel mech lowest build is 0.14ohm, dual battery series about 0.55 to 0.6ohms lowest, single battery about 0.25ohms lowest.
2)Watts and Volts go hand in hand, (Voltage Squared / Resistance (ohms)=watts, so I run about 30 to 40 watts on these, which equate between 3.7 to 4.4volts depending on the build.
3) Temp is an entirely different beast due to the different wire materials, and I run these by liquid flavor dependent variables (some liquids I like warm like my rich RY4 tobacco flavors or coffee flavors to cooler with a fruity flavor). Nickel Ni200 setups I am in the 0.12 to 0.18ohm range on a dripper, watts about 40 to 50watts, temperatures 380F to 490F, Titanium Ti1 setups I'm in the 0.25 to 0.35ohm range, same watts and same temps. Stainless steel coils I'm in the 0.4ohm range, 50 to 60watts in the 400 to 520F temp ranges.
4) Amps - this I can give a little more focused information, this is electricity, so "Ohm's Law" applies, volts, watts, resistance, and amps all go hand in hand. On a mechanical unregulated mod where the only voltage throttle is the charge level of the battery, to figure out how safe our builds are we use this formula (voltage (fresh charge battery is 4.2v where the highest amp draw will be so we use that figure)/resistance (your ohms)=amps [exampes - 4.2v / 1ohm=4.2amps, 4.2v/0.5ohms=8.4amps, 4.2v/0.25ohms=16.8amps]
With a regulated mod, we still use "Ohm's Law" but a different formula of (Watts/Lowest Battery Voltage/Mod Effieciency=Amps) [examples - single battery mod 60watts maximum output, most mod shutoff at about 3.2v, so we get 60watts/3.2v=18.75/90% Mod effieciency=20.83333_ Amps, being that you are using dual battery series mod which the batteries have the same mah and amp limit so those figures stay the same, yet voltage is doubled, so example here using your figures above we get 35watts/6.4v (3.2v per battery X2)=5.46875/90%=6.076388888888889 or 6.0764amps rounded up]
5) Batteries - buy them from reputable and authorized distributors (Illumn.com, IMRBatteries.com, Liionwholesale.com, Orbtronic.com, RTDVapor.com if in the States are the most suggested resellers), second there are mainly 3 brands suggested, LG, Samsung, Sony want model numbers and excellent independent testing spec sheets check out @Mooch he's our resident battery tester and there is also torchythebatteryboy over at the UKVapers forum, but for your vaping style, there are these 4 models that will work excellent for you, good run time and good CDR, Samsung 30Q (3000mah 20amps), LG HG2 (3000mah 20amps), AW IMR 3000mah 20amps, Sony VTC6 (3000mah, 15amp factory cdr spec like the 30Q is but Mooch up the safe CDR to about 19amps almost 20amps)

Thank you so much for the in-depth explanation and advice. Extremely grateful :)
 

djsvapour

ECF Guru
ECF Veteran
Oct 2, 2012
11,822
7,901
England and Wales
Thank you for the feedback and advice...I keep observing the voltage on the batteries that keep fluctuating whenever I increase the wattage on the MOD.
For eg. When i increase the wattage from 30 to 35, the voltage shows 4.08 / 08 Amps / 0.47 Ohms.
The battery voltage on the right side of the screen shows the voltage of both batteries (keeps fluctuating) but when I increase the wattage to 35 watts, the voltage on those show 3.84 and 3.89. Is that something I should worry about?
No. That's what it does. It shows live readings of the battery. Those will change as you press the button. I find it strange they made this feature to two decimal places but kept such a basic amp reading function. It's an odd mod. I love it (absolutely!) but it's a mess.
 
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