New Joyetech 20watt eGrip

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Mactavish

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aikanae1

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Sorry. Egrip wanna be here. I was just scanning for prices and these looked like they had some cutouts the other's didn't have. Skins usually show up pretty quickly.

I looked at all the photos, they look like they are for the original non OLED, with cutouts for juice fill, and juice window, nor is OLED mentioned in description. Cutout for OLED would be on button side of Egrip, no pictures showing one!
 

Dimplegirl

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Maybe I'm just slow, buy you can use Aspire coils with the egrip now?

You can use the Aspire BVC coil, not the Nautilus ones. You just need to take the pin out of the coil that comes with the eGrip and put it in the Aspire coil after removing that pin. The bottom wont screw down all the way but it will close and not leak. Some people use a skin to keep it sitting flat.
 

Mactavish

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I take the extra few seconds to remove the rubber gasket/insulator from the Aspire BVC and use both parts in the Egrip. You can just swap the pins, but the Aspire pin is thinner then the Egrip pin. This will be obvious if you try this. Some of the Egrip brand atties Vape pretty good, but at almost twice the cost of Aspire cotton BVC's, they priced themselves out of my business! RBA is the best option should you decide to go to the next level.
 
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vibez

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I've had 2 of the original egrips with the rba bases and they are great. So I decided to treat myself to the new OLED version. The problem is that this new version seems really hard to draw on compared to my other egrips. I've used the same coils in both and the old ones kick out twice as much vapour with the same RBA.

I've contacted my vendor, "vape escape" and they tell me they would need to find a specific fault though which is why it’s worth double checking coils etc. A comparison with a previous model isn’t a fault.

The button is also incredibly tight to rotate which is a pain considering how much you have spin it to go up and down in voltage

Can anyone help, I really love egrips but this OLED just isn't enjoyable as the original ones
 
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Mactavish

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Well let's assume exact same juice in old and new, and that you are simply swapping the SAME RBA between old and new Egrips, with same drip tip, same wattage settings. Then yes that would be odd since the air path is only through the bottom of the RBA. So logically the air at the point of the RBA going into it and reaching the deck should be identical. This leaves only three glass chimney as the suspect. Get a good strong light and look up/down the chimney for any blockage, run a pipe cleaning soft fuzzy stick through the chimney to clear it out. I have to use these all the time to get rid of guggles and vapor mist that collects in there, and also up through the bottom of the RBA, as juice and condensation clog up that air path, these are downsides to this device as it's not perfect. It's also possible you got a hard to see tiny extra silicone gasket stuck up there.

The only way I can effect air draw is too little or too much cotton, that's why your test has to be with the same RBA, not two different ones, as one could have more cotton in the coil then another, and this could choke the air quite a bit, that's when I learned to use a lot less wicking then I was. Looked at a lot of videos, SuperXDrifter shows a bunch of how to wick cotton on micro coils on YouTube and can be found on this board by searching.

Oh, and as far as tight button, mine is tight as well and gets tighter in certain spots on the dial, machining here is bad. I guess it's better then being too loose, but I'm going to live with that issue, if I swapped it the next one might be worse!
 
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vibez

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Well let's assume exact same juice in old and new, and that you are simply swapping the SAME RBA between old and new Egrips, with same drip tip, same wattage settings. Then yes that would be odd since the air path is only through the bottom of the RBA. So logically the air at the point of the RBA going into it and reaching the deck should be identical. This leaves only three glass chimney as the suspect. Get a good strong light and look up/down the chimney for any blockage, run a pipe cleaning soft fuzzy stick through the chimney to clear it out. I have to use these all the time to get rid of guggles and vapor mist that collects in there, and also up through the bottom of the RBA, as juice and condensation clog up that air path, these are downsides to this device as it's not perfect. It's also possible you got a hard to see tiny extra silicone gasket stuck up there.

The only way I can effect air draw is too little or too much cotton, that's why your test has to be with the same RBA, not two different ones, as one could have more cotton in the coil then another, and this could choke the air quite a bit, that's when I learned to use a lot less wicking then I was. Looked at a lot of videos, SuperXDrifter shows a bunch of how to wick cotton on micro coils on YouTube and can be found on this board by searching.

Oh, and as far as tight button, mine is tight as well and gets tighter in certain spots on the dial, machining here is bad. I guess it's better then being too loose, but I'm going to live with that issue, if I swapped it the next one might be worse!
Yes it's the exact same RBA I'll see if there are any blockages later today thanks.
 

Mactavish

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The only other thing I can think of is the alignment of the top of the RBA to the chimney. Make sure the inner chimney tube is straight. If it does not seal with the silicone washer located on top of the RBA, you could have problems,really off center though and you would be drinking juice, but if it's slightly off center perhaps it's blocking the air flow, just a thought. And some are not tightening the RBA all the way down into the threads, it should get tight and hard to turn, just don't crank it too much. Let us know what you discover!
 
Can someone who has both eGrip's (v1 and OLED) check the following:
- if you scres genuine atomizer head on the atomizer base and place it inside OLED eGrip, then close the air hole on the bottom with your finger, can you draw any air?
I have some issue with my OLED eGrip, it is not working the same as v1 eGrip. I have discovered there is some airflow problem, if you do the procedure I described above you can't draw any air on v1, but there is some air leaking on OLED. I fear there is some construction problem there.
 

Dimplegirl

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Can someone who has both eGrip's (v1 and OLED) check the following:
- if you scres genuine atomizer head on the atomizer base and place it inside OLED eGrip, then close the air hole on the bottom with your finger, can you draw any air?
I have some issue with my OLED eGrip, it is not working the same as v1 eGrip. I have discovered there is some airflow problem, if you do the procedure I described above you can't draw any air on v1, but there is some air leaking on OLED. I fear there is some construction problem there.

I have both and just checked for you. The v1 I have no air flow when putting my finger on the air hole. The OLED I do get a little bit of air. I hope this helps you.
 

vibez

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Yes, but don't know how to describe it. Vape is not good as on v1 eGrip, like it is a bit hollow. Also, I use v1 on the first position (8W), OLED not less than 9.5W.

Difference is not so substantial, but is is noticeable and I mind it.
Yeah I have to vape it around 10w to get any kind of throat hit. Whereas the v1 is nice at 8w.
 
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