Newbie. Kindly explain on ohms / voltage / low & high resistance

Discussion in 'New Members Forum' started by OnceUponaDream, May 23, 2014.

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  1. OnceUponaDream

    OnceUponaDream Full Member

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    First of all, I've actually been vaping for a total of more than 12 months. However it was only a few days ago that I switched to RBA, I'm using a Kayfun Lite+. Previously I've been vaping on the basic ego clearomizers. And therefore I am newbie in the world of true vaping.

    I've been doing a lot of readings on how to rebuild an atomizer and there are a few things that always come across in all the discussions I've read... that is Ohms / voltage / woltage / low and high resistance.

    Now can someone kindly explain to me in layman terms what are all these? And how it will affect my vaping experience?

    I am really a newbie here... I've haven't even really started rebuilding my Kayfun yet! I scare I'll mess it up! Haha.

    Lastly, I loving my Kayfun! ;)
     
  2. bholcomb22

    bholcomb22 Super Member Verified Member

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    Denver, CO
    I would highly suggest you look over some of the threads that have already been started... There is an abundance of information on this forum regarding your question.
     
  3. The Ocelot

    The Ocelot Mystagogue φ Verified Member ECF Veteran

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    Hi

    Rather than type it all out, I going to post a link. It should give you a better understanding or at least narrow down your questions.

    Undestanding resistances, LR and HV

    For calculations I use a power wheel. I played around with letters and quadrants for fun, but the formulae are all still correct.

    [​IMG]

    P (not Po) = Power (watts)
    V (not Va) = Voltage (volts)
    R = Resistance (ohms)
    I = Current (amps) The "I" stands for "Impetus", the original name for the strength of an electrical current; that is, before Andre-Marie Ampere's Law of 1825.


    As an example of how to read the wheel: voltage x voltage ÷ resistance = power (watts); voltage ÷ resistance = amps (I). The formulae on the outer ring equal the results on the inner quadrants.
     
  4. The Ocelot

    The Ocelot Mystagogue φ Verified Member ECF Veteran

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    It would really assist members in giving you suggestions if you would post what kind of battery device you are using.
     
  5. Susan~S

    Susan~S ECF Guru Verified Member ECF Veteran

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    What type of battery are you going to be using? Regulated or unregulated?
     
  6. OnceUponaDream

    OnceUponaDream Full Member

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    Thanks all for replying! I did tried googling but the informations are scattered and written in terms which is hard for a newbie like me to understand...

    Ok... this may sounds silly... I have a stingray mod clone but unable to use it yet as my 18650 batteries are still in delivery... haha. Therefore I'm currently using an ego twist battery....
     
  7. DingerCPA

    DingerCPA Veni, vidi, voopi Verified Member ECF Veteran

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    Welcome to the Forums :)

    I'll give this a shot to try to help you. If I get too simplistic, I'll apologize up front.

    Ohms (Ω): resistance to the flow of current (typically symbolized by "R")
    Voltage: the amount of "potential" drop (think of it as stored energy?) between the positive and negative end of a battery (I decline to use the word "power" because that has its own electrical meaning) typically symbolized by "V"
    Current: the measure of the flow of electric charge, typically symbolized by "I"

    Ohms Law: V=IR (voltage = current times resistance) This rule is the most simple definition because I'm not going into the differences attributed to efficiency of all the components in question.
    Watts: power as calculated by V²/R (voltage squared divided by Resistance), or VI (volts times current)

    So, the way an e-cig device works (in the way my simple mind understands) is that the battery (source of electric charge) passes current through the heating coil (resistance) and vaporizes the e-juice. Playing the numbers game now, if I have a 2Ω coil and a 4V battery, I can pass 2Amps of current through the coil to heat the juice. (V=IR, therefore 4V = 2Ω * 2A) The Power is then calculated by 4V * 4V/2Ω = 16/2 = 8 Watts.

    In all this, only one factor can vary during any given draw on the device. So, if I decide to use a 4V battery, but lower my ohms to 1.5, I will now be drawing 2.667A, which means a HOTTER draw (which means I'm consuming the electric charge of the battery more quickly and have the potential to burn juices or wicks) On the flip side, if I use a 2.5Ω coil on the same 4V battery, I'm only consuming 1.6A current, which means a COOLER draw (which then means that my battery can last a little bit longer and possibly prolongs the life of the wick, but may not be sufficient to vaporize the juice properly.)

    Long-winded reply sort of shorter is that if you vary two elements of the equation, the third MUST calculate itself. You have control over the coil resistance (low = warmer vape, more current draw on battery; high = cooler vape, less current draw on battery) and possibly either the voltage level or the wattage level. You can't control BOTH volt and watts.

    So, with your RBA, you must DILIGENTLY measure the resistance of the coil, and based on your device (knowing if it's regulated or unregulated is only a start) so that you don't accidentally "overdrive" the battery and hurt yourself. If you have a mech mod (likely unregulated), your batteries probably won't shut down on their own like a regulated device will.

    Your vaping experience becomes experimenting with different coil resistances and power settings to determine what works best for you.

    Hope this helps :)
     
  8. novamatt

    novamatt Super Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

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    Which 18650 batteries did you order? There's a very wide range in specs for 18650 batteries, and the majority of them are not safe in a mech.

    And while you're waiting for them, read this. It will get you started on learning to understand what builds will be safe for you. EDITED TO ADD: DingerCPA's post above is an EXCELLENT overview of the basics. The one below will help expand on what she said and give you more information.

    Baditudes Ohm's Law for Dummies

    Now, with all of that said, you really don't need a mech mod like a stingray to run your Kayfun. The kayfun tends to work the best at somewhere between 1.2 and 1.8 ohms (I run mine at 1.5), and your ego twist will give you more flexibility with it than a mech (the stingray has only 1 power output). The reason I say that is that within a smaller resistance range like that, being able to vary the battery power is the best way to adjust your vape. With a mech, the only way to adjust your vape is to build a coil with a different resistance (because the voltage is always the one level, and like Dinger said, everything is related).

    If you want a new mod to explore the full potential of the kayfun, I'd recommend something like an MVP or other variable power mod instead of a stingray. Mechanicals are usually better for experienced users (because they have zero safety features) with dripping rbas.
     
  9. DingerCPA

    DingerCPA Veni, vidi, voopi Verified Member ECF Veteran

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    Nova, "she" ;) I know, my ID and avatar aren't very gender-specific.... But thank you for your kind words! You made my afternoon :)
     
  10. novamatt

    novamatt Super Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

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    Sorry, Dinger! I guess I default to "he" if I'm not sure. I should really know better than that. :facepalm:
     
  11. 30+Years

    30+Years Super Member ECF Veteran

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    I'm kinda fond of my Stingray's and Caravela (clones) with Kayfun's atop. :D
     
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