High Voltage/High Resistance vs low Voltage/Low Resistance

[The Ocelot]

...snip...
hope this helps.

cheers

I use the garden hose analogy all the time, that's how it was explained to me years ago. I'm fine with all the formulas until I get to: “Amps are a measure of current, while watts are a measure of work” My right-dominant brain wants amps and watts to be the same thing I can do the math, but I can't grasp the concept.

 

[Regzzz]

I use the garden hose analogy all the time, that's how it was explained to me years ago. I'm fine with all the formulas until I get to: “Amps are a measure of current, while watts are a measure of work” My right-dominant brain wants amps and watts to be the same thing I can do the math, but I can't grasp the concept.

Ha yes, I completely understand. I refer to the amps as "the little monkey on the bike on the other side of the tap" hehehe but this story is too long... instead:

Think of amps as the pressure on the hose before the point where your hand is squeezing it... the more you squeeze your hand the more pressure builds up in the hose... too much pressure and the hose blows up... too much amps and your coil blow up (well burns up)..

amps = pressure = pressure on the wires/coils

watts = heat = flow at the end of the hose

 

[Cloud Wizard]

Time for me to get to bed. G'night folks

 

[The Ocelot]

Ha yes, I completely understand. I refer to the amps as "the little monkey on the bike on the other side of the tap" hehehe but this story is too long... instead:

Think of amps as the pressure on the hose before the point where your hand is squeezing it... the more you squeeze your hand the more pressure builds up in the hose... too much pressure and the hose blows up... too much amps and your coil blow up (well burns up)..

amps = pressure = pressure on the wires/coils

watts = heat = flow at the end of the hose

Great. Monkeys. I'm going to have to meditate on that one.

 

[Thompson]

Good question. I would guess (and I am guessing now) that the actual battery charge becomes somewhat irrelevant because the safety cut-off would be based on the actual current passing through the switch (in your example the resistance of the carto/atty at the set 4.5v). But yes, there is an efficiency loss due to the step-up circuitry.

No, the amperage draw would not be the same, but the watts output would be same. the electronics of the VV that increases the voltage for you, also draws more amps from the battery then the amps being given to the coil. but in all, the power output (watts) is the same, nothing gained, nothing lost. (except for a very very minimal heat lost in the electronics of the VV)


To find the amperage draw on your battery is simple if you know the watts. ie:

3.0 ohms atty
VV set at 4.5 volts
Amps=1.5 amps

therfore watts = 6.75

your actual battery voltage is 3.5 and watts is 6.75 then Amps draw from battery is 1.93 amps


See: Ohm's Law Calculator

I guess I'm trying to relate the article that CW posted above about C rating & mAh, to say my Provari and its circuitry and how many amps it may be drawing from the battery. End goal being to reduce any harm to the battery and increase their overall lifespan. Seeing as Provape recommends only AW, I don't believe I'm causing them any issues. But for curiosity & safety's sake.

Suppose I won't let it heavily effect how I vape though. Replacing batteries isn't too bad. I just don't want to be screwing any up.

But thanks for the input piecing this together bit by bit. Feel like understanding our power sources is an absolute must and I hate to admit I've been partially ignorant about their ways.

 

[sollehahn]

a 10 volts battery with a 5 ohms atty would give you 20 watts of power

a 100 volts battery with a 500 ohms atty would ALSO give you 20 watts of power, but that red hot coil would be red faster then the lower voltage one.

hope this helps.

cheers

this exact phrase actually make me understood..

so the different between using high volt/high ressistance and low volt/low resistance is actually the response time. high volt/high resistance is better because it will heat up faster am i right?

 

[Regzzz]

I guess I'm trying to relate the article that CW posted above about C rating & mAh, to say my Provari and its circuitry and how many amps it may be drawing from the battery. End goal being to reduce any harm to the battery and increase their overall lifespan. Seeing as Provape recommends only AW, I don't believe I'm causing them any issues. But for curiosity & safety's sake.

Suppose I won't let it heavily effect how I vape though. Replacing batteries isn't too bad. I just don't want to be screwing any up.

But thanks for the input piecing this together bit by bit. Feel like understanding our power sources is an absolute must and I hate to admit I've been partially ignorant about their ways.

You don't have to worry too much about that part.. Batteries are built to take that amount of draw... and the provari as built in protections... don't go putting a 1.0 ohms coils on a bolt type (mech, or straight voltage mod, whatever they call them) the important thing i do to make my batteries last longer is to charge them at low settings (if your charger has a high (fast charge) setting) the faster you make a battery work, either charging or dis-charging, the shorter it's life is going to be)

 

[Regzzz]

this exact phrase actually make me understood..

so the different between using high volt/high ressistance and low volt/low resistance is actually the response time. high volt/high resistance is better because it will heat up faster am i right?

You are correct.

 

[Thompson]

You don't have to worry too much about that part.. Batteries are built to take that amount of draw... and the provari as built in protections... don't go putting a 1.0 ohms coils on a bolt type (mech, or straight voltage mod, whatever they call them) the important thing i do to make my batteries last longer is to charge them at low settings (if your charger has a high (fast charge) setting) the faster you make a battery work, either charging or dis-charging, the shorter it's life is going to be)

I thought a lot of people are putting really low ohm gensis setups on mechanicals though?

But good information to know, and thank you again.

I have read that lower ma charging is good for the 18350s, but have noticed people will bump up the amperage charging the larger 18650s? But a lower amperage, slower charge is healthier overall? And therefore a setup that draws less current would also be better on the battery?

Pretty certain I just rewrote what you said in questions

 

[Regzzz]

I'm sorry, it should have been "below 1.0 ohms"...

But, yes, some people do put low low coils on their mods.. and it is hard on the batteries... and I sure hope they have the "robust" mod to do it... cause when you look at it:

0.5 ohms at 4.2 volts (that's the fully charged battery) is a waping 8.4 amps or 8400 mAmps

Battery should not exceed its C rating , or in today's terms max amps draw and most batteries that we purchase have a max amps draw of 3.7 to 5.5 depending of the manufacturer...


you can probably google find the max continuous amps draw of your batteries and then calculate what would be the max lower resistance you can put on.

example: AW 18650 Protected 2600 mAh Rechargeable Lithium Battery

5.2 amps max draw
4.2 volts fully charged
Lowest I would put on is a .8 ohms coils, nothing lower.

Any lower then that is just playing with fire.. lol

 

[The Ocelot]

...max I would put on is a .8 ohms coils, nothing lower.

I completely understand what you're saying, but the way you put it disturbs my right-dominant brain. It does not want max to be lower, it wants lowest to be lower.

Maximum = lowest doesn't compute.

 

[Regzzz]

Must be my french Canadian translation chip that has a bug in it.. lol

Bed time for me...

Cheers and happy vapes.

 

[Regzzz]

Changed it

 

[Hello World]

It's all about ohm's law V=I*R (v=voltage (volts or v), I=current (amps or A), R=resistance (ohms or Ω). Power P=(V*V)/R

Greetz CW.

In respect to what appears to be conflicting information.

The Joyetech manufacturer has stated the eVic has a limit of 5 volts and 11 watts.

Yet I can vape at 5 volts on a 1.8Ω coil.

Using the above calculations ... 5v times 5v is 25 divided by 1.8 = 13.88 watts.

How does that figure?

 

[Thompson]

I'm sorry, it should have been "below 1.0 ohms"...

But, yes, some people do put low low coils on their mods.. and it is hard on the batteries... and I sure hope they have the "robust" mod to do it... cause when you look at it:

0.5 ohms at 4.2 volts (that's the fully charged battery) is a waping 8.4 amps or 8400 mAmps


Battery should not exceed its C rating , or in today's terms max amps draw and most batteries that we purchase have a max amps draw of 3.7 to 5.5 depending of the manufacturer...


you can probably google find the max continuous amps draw of your batteries and then calculate what would be the max lower resistance you can put on.

example: AW 18650 Protected 2600 mAh Rechargeable Lithium Battery

5.2 amps max draw
4.2 volts fully charged
Lowest I would put on is a .8 ohms coils, nothing lower.

Any lower then that is just playing with fire.. lol

Gotcha. Wonder if thats why the Provari cuts off after .9Ω? Never have gotten an error because of too high voltage/too low resistance, and only made 1-2 .9 coils when I started RBA.

 

[The Ocelot]

Greetz CW.

In respect to what appears to be conflicting information.

The Joyetech manufacturer has stated the eVic has a limit of 5 volts and 11 watts.

Yet I can vape at 5 volts on a 1.8Ω coil.

Using the above calculations ... 5v times 5v is 25 divided by 1.8 = 13.88 watts.

How does that figure?

You've got the math correct, but I don't know what it means. Isn't your juice completely fried?

ETA: Wait a minute, have you actually measured the watts?

 

[Hello World]

You've got the math correct, but I don't know what it means. Isn't your juice completely fried?

ETA: Wait a minute, have you actually measured the watts?

Hi Ocelot ...

No, the juice is quite Ok, but I don't vape at 5 volts, but I could as the eVic lets me do that. (Both of my eVics allow that, so not any anomaly with a particular PV.)

The point of my query is that Joyetech's max. wattage specs say one thing, yet the eVic using the above mathematical formula seems to produce more power. Joyetech says 11 watts, but the device does 13.88 watts.

So what gives? Which is correct?

* measured by the device, no separate meter used. How could the math says one thing, and a multimeter come up with something else? The eVic has a built-in meter.

 

[Cloud Wizard]

I'm sorry, it should have been "below 1.0 ohms"...

But, yes, some people do put low low coils on their mods.. and it is hard on the batteries... and I sure hope they have the "robust" mod to do it... cause when you look at it:

0.5 ohms at 4.2 volts (that's the fully charged battery) is a waping 8.4 amps or 8400 mAmps

Battery should not exceed its C rating , or in today's terms max amps draw and most batteries that we purchase have a max amps draw of 3.7 to 5.5 depending of the manufacturer...


you can probably google find the max continuous amps draw of your batteries and then calculate what would be the max lower resistance you can put on.

example: AW 18650 Protected 2600 mAh Rechargeable Lithium Battery

5.2 amps max draw
4.2 volts fully charged
Lowest I would put on is a .8 ohms coils, nothing lower.

Any lower then that is just playing with fire.. lol

This is why folks will only use AW IMR (10A max discharge) or MNKE IMR (20A max discharge) on 100% mechanical (no electronics, no wire) mods for ultra LR rebuildables (common for gennie folks to run 0.6ohm-0.8ohm with 28awg KanthalA1 2/3 wrap). For a Provari, the switch has a 3.5A limit and the circuitry has a 14.5watts max limit so even if you do the math and it says you could run higher the Provari V2 won't allow it for safety.

 

[Cloud Wizard]

Greetz CW.

In respect to what appears to be conflicting information.

The Joyetech manufacturer has stated the eVic has a limit of 5 volts and 11 watts.

Yet I can vape at 5 volts on a 1.8Ω coil.

Using the above calculations ... 5v times 5v is 25 divided by 1.8 = 13.88 watts.

How does that figure?

The regulated devices have safety features built-in to limit the output either by cutting off when resistance is too low (the device thinks it's a short) or reducing the the output when the settings will push it past the safety limits. Here's a link to a good review by Phil Busardo that shows measured outputs for varios resistances and output settings: A PBusardo Review - The eVic firmware V1.0 - YouTube (charts start at look at 29:38)

 

[KySky]

I started vaping since early january this year and got iTaste MVP as my first PV. several day ago i got myself a Smok R Tank and i notice they provide several coiled wick with different resistance (2, 2.5 and 3 ohm). I dont really notice the difference of using different resistance, except that i need to use higher voltage to get more vapor with higer resistance.

so i really want to know whats the different of using high voltage with high resistance and low voltage with low resistance?

I would like to go back to the OP original questions please. I'm new also and I see this asked alot in my trolling and I've read alot of replies that get technecial quicky without explain it in "everday on the go laymans" terms.

Let me see if I can explain it this way. When I was looking into my first ugrade to a VV device I asked the same questions differently and getting the same responces from different folks. It always gotten techy to quickly and I rapidly loose focus trying to understand the numbers.

Finally, someone came along and said "I just turn the dial until I find my sweet spot." I get that explanation! I recently just got my first VV battery based on that tip and it's great. I don't care what the dial say's it's setting on and I do change it during the day dependent upon my vape mood.

Now I have to have the following explained to me in very "laymans" terms:

Should I or should I not be considering single or double coiled atomizers? To me what comes to my mind is that a double coil automizer would give you twice the vapor production, but using up twice as much juice? Or am I way out in left field somewhere. I have to start buying some heads and really like to know which ones I should be considering.

LR/SR/HR: I don't know the laymans difference here either. If I had three 1000mah Twists all lined up side by side and each one had their own LR/SR/HR and all with the same juices and I turned the dail on the VV Twist until each one had similar taste and vapor TH/LH, then what am I comparing? Hopefully nothing? With that said am I only considering battery times on a charge? If thats the case then my wondering which to way to go is solved. I have a 1000mah ego C Twist that only has to be chared for 12 hours.

So what do you all suggest. I like thick vapor and cool draws. Right now I'm vaping 80pg/20vg and thinking about trying 70/30. Should I consider a double head coil atomizer with 2.00 + ohms? Or, sindle head coil with 1.5 ohms?