Pioneer4You IPV3 Li 165W / 200W With Temperature Control (Yihi SX330-V3SL )

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Completely Average

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I have a Snow Wolf and I bought it on impulse, the Ohms jump all over the place, is that the norm for these things, I first tried builds with Ni200, had a few that were O.K but, they were jumping all around so I threw a tank with NI200 coils on it to see if it was my builds and it still jumps. considering getting the Li, but I don't what the same problem. any input?

Nickel changes resistance radically as it heats up. The coil may be .15ohms at room temperature and .5ohms at 450F. That's how temperature control works, it reads the changes in resistance as the coil heats up and adjusts the wattage accordingly. That's also why you're supposed to lock the atomizer resistance in on the mod while both are at room temperature on the SX chips. The mod has to know the resistance at room temperature to read resistance changes properly.

In otherwords, it's not a problem at all, it's supposed to function like that.
 
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Clark Kent

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Thank you so much for clearing that mess up, so do only the sx chips have that locking ability or am I missing something on this to lock it in. Also do you know if the IPV Li will lock the resistance. Something about not having stability even if it matters or not seems to bug the hell out of me.
 
Thank you so much for clearing that mess up, so do only the sx chips have that locking ability or am I missing something on this to lock it in. Also do you know if the IPV Li will lock the resistance. Something about not having stability even if it matters or not seems to bug the hell out of me.
If you throw your atty on at room temp, hold down the plus/minus - up/down buttons together, and it will lock your resistance. All Yihi TC chips work that way, also I have the Li too and that's definitely how it's done.
 
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If you throw your atty on at room temp, hold down the plus/minus - up/down buttons together, and it will lock your resistance. All Yihi TC chips work that way, also I have the Li too and that's definitely how it's done.
Oh, and not only does it matter it will NEVER do TC properly without locking in your resistance.
 
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RGLP4Lyfe

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I wish i would of looked into this more! I ordered a Black IPV4 with TC yesterday for only $72 and free shipping. This was the only site with ANY in stock and the site happened to be the cheapest and had it in all black. Its the SX330 vls or something like that.. Its 100watts and on the site it reads that this summer a firmware upgrade will be pushing the chip to 165 watts. So im satisfied so far.. But had I known a 200watt and better chip was out and only $10 more i should of bought this new Li

-M
 
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RGLP4Lyfe

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Question--

Now that asmodus no longer covers ip4u warranties, do their products still come with a manufacturer warranty??
Asmodus no longer covers the ipv4?? I just received mine 3 days ago and it has a Asmodus warranty card. And as for the firmware update on the ipv4, i just bought my murdered out ipv4 from originvapes and at the bottom of the page for the ipv4 it says "Yihi is expecting to release upgrade for this ipv4 chip some time this summer.. From 100 watts to 165w. :)

-M
 

SavePaperVapor

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Asmodus no longer covers the ipv4?? I just received mine 3 days ago and it has a Asmodus warranty card. And as for the firmware update on the ipv4, i just bought my murdered out ipv4 from originvapes and at the bottom of the page for the ipv4 it says "Yihi is expecting to release upgrade for this ipv4 chip some time this summer.. From 100 watts to 165w. :)

-M
Asmodus pulled their support for all ipv products because pioneer 4 you is a schit company.
 
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IXIShogunR1

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anyways, so far with just playing around with it.... it feels just like an IPV3, but with a different finish/paint
the button feels good, and the touch sensor works pretty good..... waiting for the batteries to charge before i really play with it
i dont have any nickel or TI to play around with yet, gonna have to get some

so far i like it though, battery door is pretty nice and easy to use

IPV3.2.jpg
 
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Maverik_X

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Snow Wolf, but I was trying to get a idea if the IPV Li does the same.
Snow wolf uses refinement like dna40 v1/v2 so the snow wolf has no resistance lock if it's jumping around alot on you check your 510 connections also ensure that the coils are tight. you shouldn't see much more then a .04 + or minus on the resistance if its more and every time you vape I'd say you have a issue somewhere.
 
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SavePaperVapor

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Snow wolf uses refinement like dna40 v1/v2 so the snow wolf has no resistance lock if it's jumping around alot on you check your 510 connections also ensure that the coils are tight. you shouldn't see much more then a .04 + or minus on the resistance if its more and every time you vape I'd say you have a issue somewhere.
The newer DNA has resistance lock.
 

Todai

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The Snow Wolf reads the resistance when you attach the atomizer, no need to lock it in.

Also, it shows a real time resistance display, so as the coil heats up and cools down, the resistance displayed will change. That's why you see a higher resistance at the end of a vape when you release the fire button.

Let it sit for a few minutes and tap the fire button again. Resistance goes down, as it should.

It's confusing folks because they're used to seeing resistances that remain the same on the display all the time instead of a real time readout.

But it's working as intended.
 
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TheBloke

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Yeah I think that's why nearly every other manufacturer has chosen to keep ohms static. I love it though, seeing that live resistance reading is really useful for analysing what the TC is doing. The first mods I have seen with it are the new SXK clones - the VF, the rDNA, the Zero. Though I just got a large-screen version, on their new Hana Modz clone(ish - rebranded the SXK Nebula) and the large screen doesn't do live ohms, which made me sad.

But I can understand why it's not popular, it is a bit confusing if you don't know what it means. The first time I ever made a Ni200 coil I was pre-pulsing it in Power mode (which I didn't realise at the time was a big no no) - every time I pulsed and checked resistance, it had shot way up. I was sure I must have a poor connection (it didn't help I was doing this on a new cloned atomizer that I didn't have any experience with.) Took me about four cycles of pulse - see high ohms - re-tighten all connections - see ohms go down again - pulse again until I suddenly realised the ohms went down even when I didn't adjust the connection and then remembered that Ni200 resistance is meant to rise :)
 
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