quick kick question

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schatz

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Just started experimenting with a kick on my Super T ELA and a Taifun GT2 and it fires them with 28g at 1.4 ohms,but it will not fire one with 26g at 1.4 ohms. Are they only designed to work with a certain guage wire or am I not doing something wrong with the kick? If I take out the kick it fires fine, if I put the kick back in it wont fire.I have checked the voltage with and without the kick at the 510 connector,and readsfine,what gives?
 

State O' Flux

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In theory, it shouldn't matter... not if the actual resistance for both is the same.

Although a 26 gauge single coil at (what I assume is your maximum) 15 watts is really too thick a wire for the resistance and Kick controlled wattage, and will have a relatively cool coil operating temperature... it should still produce enough heat to vaporize juice well enough.

The Evolv Kick 2 (you don't state what you actually have) has a dead short and/or low resistance circuit... and although you've probably measured resistance with an independent source meter... perhaps it perceives the 26 gauge build as below it's operational threshold. In other words, the coils true resistance is below the minimum allowable resistance... which is probably very close to your 1.4Ω.

Kicks also have a grounding pin or spring, so check that... and when the battery is below 'X' volts (usually around 3.2v) they will shut off.

That's about all I have... I've not used a Kick in well over a year. Good luck sorting it out.
 
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schatz

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In theory, it shouldn't matter... not if the actual resistance for both is the same.

Although a 26 gauge single coil at (what I assume is your maximum) 15 watts is really too thick a wire for the resistance and Kick controlled wattage, and will have a relatively cool coil operating temperature... it should still produce enough heat to vaporize juice well enough.

The Evolv Kick 2 (you don't state what you actually have) has a dead short and/or low resistance circuit... and although you've probably measured resistance with an independent source meter... perhaps it perceives the 26 gauge build as below it's operational threshold. In other words, the coils true resistance is below the minimum allowable resistance... which is probably very close to your 1.4Ω.

Kicks also have a grounding pin or spring, so check that... and when the battery is below 'X' volts (usually around 3.2v) they will shut off.

That's about all I have... I've not used a Kick in well over a year. Good luck sorting it out.
Thank you for your input sir.It is a year old generic, probably a knock off,kick.I saw it at a local vape shop and they didnt even know what it was,so it was purchased cheap.It was probably not meant to go to that higher amperage threshold as you stated,I had a fresh vtc-4 in at the time.I should probably look online for a real one.Thanks again sir.
 
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schatz

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Jan 15, 2014
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Tucson, Arizona , U.S,A
In theory, it shouldn't matter... not if the actual resistance for both is the same.

Although a 26 gauge single coil at (what I assume is your maximum) 15 watts is really too thick a wire for the resistance and Kick controlled wattage, and will have a relatively cool coil operating temperature... it should still produce enough heat to vaporize juice well enough.

The Evolv Kick 2 (you don't state what you actually have) has a dead short and/or low resistance circuit... and although you've probably measured resistance with an independent source meter... perhaps it perceives the 26 gauge build as below it's operational threshold. In other words, the coils true resistance is below the minimum allowable resistance... which is probably very close to your 1.4Ω.

Kicks also have a grounding pin or spring, so check that... and when the battery is below 'X' volts (usually around 3.2v) they will shut off.

That's about all I have... I've not used a Kick in well over a year. Good luck sorting it out.
One last question, if I were to purchase a new name brand kick,would it be capable of firing a subohm coil like .3 - .7 ohm coil. I have been a tootle puffer for several years and wanting to try lower ohms for a different experience. But would really like to use my mechanical mods that I already own, but would love the safety and versatility of having the kick in there. Really dont want the new 100w seglei or whatever box mod every one is using nowadays,Just like the look and feel of my tubulars.
 

State O' Flux

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One last question, if I were to purchase a new name brand kick,would it be capable of firing a subohm coil like .3 - .7 ohm coil. I have been a tootle puffer for several years and wanting to try lower ohms for a different experience. But would really like to use my mechanical mods that I already own, but would love the safety and versatility of having the kick in there. Really dont want the new 100w seglei or whatever box mod every one is using nowadays,Just like the look and feel of my tubulars.
First question... no.
Second comment... learn Ohm's Law and battery safety with unregulated mods... and you'll have plenty of confidence to run without a kick.
Third comment... me too! ;)

Click the two sigline hypelinks below.... start reading. PM me if you have questions. Cheers!
 
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schatz

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First question... no.
Second comment... learn Ohm's Law and battery safety with unregulated mods... and you'll have plenty of confidence to run without a kick.
Third comment... me too! ;)

Click the two sigline hypelinks below.... start reading. PM me if you have questions. Cheers!
Thank you state of flux, my electronics training was back in the 80s, so have to refresh every now and then.Appreciate your attention.
 

anavidfan

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Just started experimenting with a kick on my Super T ELA and a Taifun GT2 and it fires them with 28g at 1.4 ohms,but it will not fire one with 26g at 1.4 ohms. Are they only designed to work with a certain guage wire or am I not doing something wrong with the kick? If I take out the kick it fires fine, if I put the kick back in it wont fire.I have checked the voltage with and without the kick at the 510 connector,and readsfine,what gives?

Funny you should mention ELA and Kick. I always had trouble with Kicks in the ELA. Misfires, inconsistency, etc. I just gave up and worked on my builds.

I have since tried them in my other mechs and most of time its just not reliable, I get things like intermittent misfires or no fires, or the Kick starts to make high pitched whining sounds. Again just gave up. FUnny though the kicks ( authentic 1 and 2's) work their best in my Saber Touch Kicked edition with the use of a tiny battery magnet. I was told that the kicks work best with a magnet but if I try to use the magnet on my other mechs its either too tight or too loose.

I finally got a P3 and what a difference. So much smoother and perfect performance from a fresh battery to the end of its power.

Not saying you need a provari, because honestly, I dont really get better performance from the P3 or my mechs. Probably because I cant go over 9 watts or I get a sore throat. I also notice I get better battery life when I make my coils at 1.2 or higher. VW is great because it adjusts itself to output to the wattage no matter what the resistance is set at. If you want bigger clouds, hotter vape etc, just adjust it to higher watts.
 
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Alter

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I used the 10 watt Sigelei kicks for a long time and find them very finicky to dirty threads, contacts and fitting into a tube nicely. When they worked, they worked great but would sometimes intermittently shut off. Some of my kicks fired down to 1.1 ohms and others 1.4 so its a crapshoot. If that kick didn't sit pretty tight in the tube I was destined for grief so with some so I ended up putting a layer of masking tape around the kick to tighten it up in the tube, sanded the inside of the tube where the negative pin sits also sanding the plating off the kicks top & bottom contacts along with always keeping the kicks contacts shiny and they were much more consistent.
Once I began building with 28,26 and 24 gauge wire thus lowering my build ohms I stopped using the kicks, now they sit but still once in a while I'll stuff one into a tube and give her a rip.
Generally speaking I was happy with my kicks when I used them but now getting into low ohm builds and box mods has dinosaured a lot of my older gear along with the kicks.
 

schatz

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Jan 15, 2014
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Tucson, Arizona , U.S,A
Thanks for all your input guys,I guess I will remain kickless for now,except on my higher ohm builds.I bought it over a year ago and just wanted to make use of it.Oh well have to uprade from my provari 2.5 soon,but have also been seeing some interesting stuff on the temp control mods,but then again it would have to be a box.So on the fence I sit.
 
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