REO Technical Issues/Shop Talk

[Rule62]

kewl, never thought about that. A lot of the porchers that use them say they don't gunk up nearly as fast. Do you find that to be true with the SS also?

I don't really know about gunking, compared to contact coils. I vape a lot of unflavored, or, if I do add flavor, it's at pretty low percentages. I don't really vape any heavy coil gunkers anymore. I used to, but I've always dry burned and brushed off my coils every time I rewick anyway, so they never get too bad.

 

[Robinowitz]

So if I'm reading correctly, I understand the spaced vs contact coils to be more of response to post placement and ease of getting legs around/thru posts, rather than how a spaced vs contact coil fires, etc? (Hope I'm articulating that dog gone good enough)

Hey Deb, I have some 28 and 30 SS that I could easily snip off a bit and mail them to you to try. They tend to run cooler, so these may be equivalent to 26 or 28 Kanthal?? (Not scientific, just a hunch and open to feedback).

 

[Debadoo]

I've always dry burned and brushed off my coils every time I rewick anyway, so they never get too bad.

yeah I do too. Probably most of us do. But I make flavored juices, and a couple of em really gunk it up quick.

Hey Deb, I have some 28 and 30 SS that I could easily snip off a bit and mail them to you to try

That's really sweet hun, if you're sure you don't mind. I probably won't be able to get any til July, so that might at least help me figure out which size I like better. I'll pm you

 

[Rule62]

So if I'm reading correctly, I understand the spaced vs contact coils to be more of response to post placement and ease of getting legs around/thru posts, rather than how a spaced vs contact coil fires, etc? (Hope I'm articulating that dog gone good enough).

I think spaced coils spread out the heat a little more, sometimes. I've always had a personal rule of thumb, although I have no scientific basis for it, just personal preference, that I never want a contact coil to be less than 7 wraps, preferably 8. If I can't get that, with whatever resistance I'm building, and the gauge wire I'm using, I'll space the coil.
But, that is all just opinion. Everybody is different, especially when it comes to stuff like Heat Flux values. That's where the experimenting comes in. I find that I seem to like vaping around a 300hf value, give or take. So, I usually shoot for between 275 to 325. This is why Heat Flux is important, as far as choosing wire size. For example, if you build 2 coils at .4 ohms, but use 24 gauge for one, and 26 gauge for the other; the 26 gauge will vape hotter, even though they are the same resistance. Why? That's Heat Flux.

 

[SoftSell]

Greetings! Been away from ECF for quite a while, and I have a question. How adjustable is the Reo Grand LP 510 pin, not the current one, but from about 2 years ago? I'm using a beauty ring and it raises the Origen little about 1/16th but seems to be enough to not want to fire, and it's 510 isn't really adjustable. I have unthreaded the Reo's 510 a bit, but seems to sink back in, almost floating, and the rda does fire. No shorts, but I'm awfully nervous. Thanks!

 

[tobarger]

The current 510 is adjustable
The 510 about 2 years ago is not adjustable, unless the atomiser has an adjustable 510 pin there is no adjustment

 

[Rickajho]

Greetings! Been away from ECF for quite a while, and I have a question. How adjustable is the Reo Grand LP 510 pin, not the current one, but from about 2 years ago? I'm using a beauty ring and it raises the Origen little about 1/16th but seems to be enough to not want to fire, and it's 510 isn't really adjustable. I have unthreaded the Reo's 510 a bit, but seems to sink back in, almost floating, and the rda does fire. No shorts, but I'm awfully nervous. Thanks!

The old 510 is not adjustable at all. Period. Don't mess with it or you will break the internal seal inside the 510 and end up with a leaking mess.

 

[SoftSell]

The old 510 is not adjustable at all. Period. Don't mess with it or you will break the internal seal inside the 510 any end up with a leaking mess.

Thank you very much! Looks like it's headed to the spa then for an upgrade, and maybe a new friend

 

[Debadoo]

Thank you very much! Looks like it's headed to the spa then for an upgrade, and maybe a new friend

reos loveeeeeeee friends!! They also love going to the spa to get luvins from Rob and new porky dust.

 

[Robinowitz]

Also, are you making spaced coils, or contact coils? Spaced coils take up a little more wire, which will lead to higher resistance.
When you wrap, do you make a couple extra wraps, and then pull them out, in order to tighten the coil on the Kuro rod?
I reset the tail length from the default, depending what I'm building. It's just a guess though. For example, on a single Z coil, like for a Stumpy, I'll set it at 2 or 3mm.
I reset the Watts setting, to correspond with whatever resistance I'm building, using an Ohms Law Calculator. Given the fact that we are using a single battery mechanical, I'll figure the watts at 4.2 V (full charge), and 3.7 V (nominal). For example: If I build a .3 ohm coil, it will draw 58.8 watts on full charge, and 45.6 watts at 3.7V

I think spaced coils spread out the heat a little more, sometimes. I've always had a personal rule of thumb, although I have no scientific basis for it, just personal preference, that I never want a contact coil to be less than 7 wraps, preferably 8. If I can't get that, with whatever resistance I'm building, and the gauge wire I'm using, I'll space the coil.
But, that is all just opinion. Everybody is different, especially when it comes to stuff like Heat Flux values. That's where the experimenting comes in. I find that I seem to like vaping around a 300hf value, give or take. So, I usually shoot for between 275 to 325. This is why Heat Flux is important, as far as choosing wire size. For example, if you build 2 coils at .4 ohms, but use 24 gauge for one, and 26 gauge for the other; the 26 gauge will vape hotter, even though they are the same resistance. Why? That's Heat Flux.

Holy Moley Rule 62. I read these 2 posts when you posted them and then again last night. I kept flipping back to Steam Machine and the watts of a charged and nominal battery. The heat index is starting to make sense!! Like the lights went on or something. Thank you! I appreciate the examples. They help illustrate your point.

 

[CMD-Ky]

I have a Velocity authentic and put the bottom feed pin in it. It seems to me that the pin sits quite high over the base of the positive post. If anyone has experience with the Velocity, have you ground the BF pin down a bit so that it might drain a little more off the deck?

 

[Mactavish]

Holy Moley Rule 62. I read these 2 posts when you posted them and then again last night. I kept flipping back to Steam Machine and the watts of a charged and nominal battery. The heat index is starting to make sense!! Like the lights went on or something. Thank you! I appreciate the examples. They help illustrate your point.

Had a brief back and forth on another thread about how heat flux was one of the more important if not most aspect to learn and understand, but gave up, as some just choose to be ignorant, or turn away from the science and math that more advanced and knowledgeable vapors know is important if one actually cares about achieving a GREAT VAPE! iPhone apps like MicroCoilPro and Coil Genius make it easy to see various settings and potential results before you even make a coil as well as the best combination of variables to get a good heat flux. SteamEngine site is always there as well. Congratulations on "the lights going on".

 

[supertrunker]

I have a Velocity authentic and put the bottom feed pin in it. It seems to me that the pin sits quite high over the base of the positive post. If anyone has experience with the Velocity, have you ground the BF pin down a bit so that it might drain a little more off the deck?

I use those now and then. but i never ground the pin down because the pin sits in the middle of the positive leg, so even grinding it down that far would make no difference to the drainage.
The lack of drainage is to be expected in an atty with a flat bottom, compared to say a chalice with a concave bottom. On the positive side it keeps your wicks wet!

T

 

[Robinowitz]

Had a brief back and forth on another thread about how heat flux was one of the more important if not most aspect to learn and understand, but gave up, as some just choose to be ignorant, or turn away from the science and math that more advanced and knowledgeable vapors know is important if one actually cares about achieving a GREAT VAPE! iPhone apps like MicroCoilPro and Coil Genius make it easy to see various settings and potential results before you even make a coil as well as the best combination of variables to get a good heat flux. SteamEngine site is always there as well. Congratulations on "the lights going on".

One of the things I enjoy most about vaping (other than my Reo family which is #1) is for all the opportunities to learn more and more. My next challenge will be to better understand Coil Genius. There's always something to keep the wheels turning. Great hobby!

 

[Rule62]

Had a brief back and forth on another thread about how heat flux was one of the more important if not most aspect to learn and understand, but gave up, as some just choose to be ignorant, or turn away from the science and math that more advanced and knowledgeable vapors know is important if one actually cares about achieving a GREAT VAPE! iPhone apps like MicroCoilPro and Coil Genius make it easy to see various settings and potential results before you even make a coil as well as the best combination of variables to get a good heat flux. SteamEngine site is always there as well. Congratulations on "the lights going on".

I must confess that I built coils for 2-3 years. Without paying much attention to Heat Flux values. But with so many materials, building methods, and wire sizes available, I slowly realized how important it is; especially for us mechanical mod users. I still can't say that I understand the math. I'm not that smart. But I understand the values, and have experimented with enough builds to know what works, for me. It's good to be able to predict, with a degree of certainty, whether I will like a particular build or not, before starting. I'm unapologetically lazy. I hate building coils over and over, trying out different ones, and having to tear them back out, and starting over.

 

[Layzee Vaper]

I must confess that I built coils for 2-3 years. Without paying much attention to Heat Flux values. But with so many materials, building methods, and wire sizes available, I slowly realized how important it is; especially for us mechanical mod users. I still can't say that I understand the math. I'm not that smart. But I understand the values, and have experimented with enough builds to know what works, for me. It's good to be able to predict, with a degree of certainty, whether I will like a particular build or not, before starting. I'm unapologetically lazy. I hate building coils over and over, trying out different ones, and having to tear them back out, and starting over.

I am also very lazy....

The heat flux value definitely puts you in the right area, in terms of coil temperature. It saves a great deal of time and effort when compared to trying lots of different builds.

I tend to stick to single contact coils, and adjust the internal diameter of the coil so that I get about 8 wraps for the required resistance value for the wire size I am using. Occasionally I end up adding or removing a wrap to get the temperature I am after.

I have found it is fairly important to match the physical size of the coil to the airflow of the atty, as this also has an effect on the temperature that the coil ends up running at.

These days I run a conservative setup, I prefer the longer battery life and lower juice consumption over large clouds.

Swapping a battery and filling up my juice bottle every couple of days suits me just fine

 

[CMD-Ky]

If I am making some change in how I build, I always check the heat flux. I quit changing the wattage. I leave it the same and just use the relative flux values, I like flux around 33 - cool for certain. I am not smart enough to understand the physics of the calculator. I was amazed (kind of shows my lack of smart) to see how if you vary wire gauge while keeping the Ohms the same, the heat will change. As I say, I don't understand but I really like the SteamEngine.

 

[Kh888]

Hi REO fans!

Question...has anyone pulled off the poly on a Woodvil and refinished it with poly or something other? I am now the owner of a used Bubinga Woodie and it needs a bit of attention. The poly is pulling off the bottom and there is a darkened ring around the 510 from likely some liquid sitting on top of the wood from the atty.

If you can provide any steps or suggestions to rejuvenate the Woodie, it would be much appreciated. I am aware that I can also send it to Rob, but I might want to tackle this as a bit of a project.

Thanks!

 

[muzichead]

I have seen a few that were attempted but not as clean as if it were done in the spa... It would be pretty basic I would think if it is only the outside you are doing. I think most start off with say 220-300 grit and work their way up to 600 grit to strip it and then you can put the poly on it. If you are going to do the inside as well I would suggest sending it to the spa... As to the stain on top, that might be something that Rob could get out kinda easy...

 

[Rickajho]

^^^ All that. I know what the top on that one looks like, but I don't believe any pictures were posted regarding the bottom. It never hurts to ask Rob what the price would be for a face lift before you decide to try anything first. Consider sending Rob an e-mail - along with a couple photos. See what he says.