Smok X Cube II 160watt TC Bluetooth $55.9 coupon

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Mad Scientist

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Looks like I found out why mine was so screwed up. I got to the point where there was no way I wasn't either going to find something wrong and fix it or clamp it in the mini-mill and dna 200 its sorry azz.

Opened it up and the only obvious issue was that the negative battery lead was pinched between the main board and a rib in the case. The wire insulation was cut and it was obviously contacting the case (and possible something on the board also). I insulated the cut in the insulation and carefully reassembled to avoid pinching that wire. Sure enough, now I know why everyone else thinks it actually works lol. It does work (at least now it does). As another upside, because of the way it's made, it looks relatively easy to replace its board with a DNA 200 (or really DNA 133 with dual 18650s).

Here's a pic of the insides. The main board is actually mounted just behind the fire panel on a plastic sled and comes out with the fire panel / switch / led assembly as a whole. I plan to keep trying to like it as is and maybe it's not so bad after all lol.

image.jpg
 

TheBloke

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Great stuff, MS!

I've had three freshly made Titanium coils and one Resistherm on it now, across two different RTA types, and the pattern is fairly consistent: I need to set it 20-25°C higher than I set the same coil/device on other TCR/Titanium mods, such as the Dicodes.

Alternatively, I expect there's a TCR figure I could use that would allow me to set the right target temp. Eg maybe setting 0.0038 for Titanium instead of 35. Not that that's at all desirable, but be interesting to see if it works.

I finally built my test rig so I'll be temp testing tonight and over the weekend.

How are you finding the accuracy, relative to other good TC mods, now that yours is fixed?
 

Mad Scientist

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Great stuff, MS!

I've had three freshly made Titanium coils and one Resistherm on it now, across two different RTA types, and the pattern is fairly consistent: I need to set it 20-25°C higher than I set the same coil/device on other TCR/Titanium mods, such as the Dicodes.

Alternatively, I expect there's a TCR figure I could use that would allow me to set the right target temp. Eg maybe setting 0.0038 for Titanium instead of 35. Not that that's at all desirable, but be interesting to see if it works.

I finally built my test rig so I'll be temp testing tonight and over the weekend.

How are you finding the accuracy, relative to other good TC mods, now that yours is fixed?

I'm still in the getting used to it phase. Not setting wattage at all is weird and the device is far too dependent on a once and done base resistance reading. Just setting temp is a great idea that may be ahead of its time. It does help that the base resistance can be adjusted manually. Once all the fiddly adjustments are set right for a particular atty, it's great. At least now that it's functioning the way it's supposed to, it is consistent at any particular group of settings. The single coil / dual coil seems to affect preheat but that's still a guess.

An apparent bug is that it is possible to have a base resistance reading higher than real time resistance. That should be obviously erroneous in the real world and the software should recognize that.

I finally got my order of spools of .005" type E thermocouple wire. I need to weld a few up and write some software to talk to the integrated inst. amp and normalizer. May be a while but I'll have some accurate numbers soon enough (but likely long after yours lol).
 
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pevinsghost

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Finally got my 317L SS, I had planned to try a 1.8 ohm coil to tc on. Got carried away wrapping and ended up at 2.8 ohm after wicking. The xcube reads it as 2.7 ohm.

So I turned TCR all the way down, and started upping temperature looking for a good vape.
By the time I get to 600 F with nothing coming out, I've long since realized something's wrong.

Tried doing ohm offset, told the xcube it was an 2.9 ohm coil, 600F. No vapor. Look at the ohms while it's firing, says it's hitting 7.29 ohm, while steam engine tcr calculator is telling me the highest 317L should get to from that base resistance, even at 600 F, is 3.87 ohms.

Figure maybe something else is wrong, switch to watts, vapors like a champ.

Any one have ideas what's going on?
 
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pevinsghost

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Ok THAT is weird!! Same coil, switched from titanium to nickel mode, hit the fire bar, and got a little wisp.
Turned the tcr up to 0.0075 & got a good vape. It's a little cooler than I prefer, and it ramps up to saying 131 F degrees, then stalls there, even though it's set to go to 600, and it feels like what I'd get off nickel at 400 degrees...

But it's definitely doing tc on stainless steel.

The ohms say about 3.4 when the temp stabilizes.

Those settings and read outs are just bizarre though!
 
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TheBloke

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I don't think that's actually going to be a TC vape :) Have you tried a cotton burn test / seeing what happens when you empty the tank?

The stalling temperature means it thinks the temperature has only risen to 131F - that makes sense if it expects a TCR of 0.0075 and is getting one of 0.001. The resistance in SS rises only a very small amount, and because it is using a much higher TCR it reads the resistance rise of 400-500F as being only 131F. Therefore it won't ever cut power to it, so you are basically just doing a VW vape. It'll give burnt hits/burnt cotton when you run out of juice.

You may as well just switch to VW mode.

As to why you got no vapour at all when you set the TCR to 0.00150: one possibility is that it's being confused by these high resistances, close to the maximum. I'd definitely try a much lower resistance coil to start - my SS coils are normally around 0.5Ω. Not that it should be doing what it's doing at any resistance, but that's a possibility.

Is it a spaced coil or a contact coil? it's common for the coil not to work for TC until you've done a few pulses. It needs to oxidise. So if it's a contact coil, then another, much more likely possibility is that when you started with the TCR at 0.00150 you had a contact coil that wasn't functioning because it was shorting. Then by the time you had got it working (by trying to fire it), you had already switched to the super high TCR.

If it is a contact coil - or at least is not completely spaced - try switching back to 0.00150 and trying again. You'll need to set the temperature lower than you want, maybe 250-300F, because the TCR at 150 is still too high, but you might get a TC vape out of it.

Failing that I'd definitely try starting again with a lower resistance, simpler coil. If it's at all contact, dry burn it first in VW mode - like you do/used to do with Kanthal - and only try TC once you've done that. That should oxidise it and make TC work. Continue paying attention to the screen as you have been doing to confirm the temperature is going up sensibly. A good sign that a TC contact coil isn't working is that the temperature just stays at its lowest level - 70F for example.

You might need/want to re-read the coil's resistance after that dry burn process (let it cool first of course.)
 
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pevinsghost

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I dry burned when making the coil, just like any kanthal contact coil. Because I wasn't quite happy with it, I went through the dry burning process a second time to adjust things s little more.

This isn't a tank, it's a dripper. When I say it stalled at that temp, I was holding fire for a long time, just tried it again, turned tcr all the way up to max, and it stalled out showing 145 this time... For 10 seconds straight without me drawing on it. When I did draw on it, was still a cool, but huge cloud, vape.

I tried switching back to lowest tcr, nothing happening. Back to highest tcr, good vape again.

This is downright bizarre.
 

pevinsghost

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Let's see, other pertinent's...

Mod is on v1.07
Wire is from vape mesh, labeled as being from Crazy Wire Company Ltd
Ss317l 30awg
Now, at max tcr, it's saying resistance is only going up to 3.73
But when I go back to minimum tcr, it says 7.29 ohm again.

I over dripped a bit, so when I burn through all this liquid, I'll report on if it actually burns the cotton/juice then.
 
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TheBloke

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I dry burned when making the coil, just like any kanthal contact coil. Because I wasn't quite happy with it, I went through the dry burning process a second time to adjust things s little more.

This isn't a tank, it's a dripper. When I say it stalled at that temp, I was holding fire for a long time, just tried it again, turned tcr all the way up to max, and it stalled out showing 145 this time... For 10 seconds straight without me drawing on it. When I did draw on it, was still a cool, but huge cloud, vape.

I tried switching back to lowest tcr, nothing happening. Back to highest tcr, good vape again.

This is downright bizarre.

Let's see, other pertinent's...


Mod is on v1.07
Wire is from vape mesh, labeled as being from Crazy Wire Company Ltd
Ss317l 30awg
Now, at max tcr, it's saying resistance is only going up to 3.73
But when I go back to minimum tcr, it says 7.29 ohm again.

I over dripped a bit, so when I burn through all this liquid, I'll report on if it actually burns the cotton/juice then.

On the higher TCRs I would be flabbergasted if it doesn't burn cotton. It has to - the stalling temp indicates that it thinks the temp is only 145 or whatever. If the max temp is set to higher than 145, then it won't cut power ever. I suppose theoretically you could set the temp to 150 and then it might protect the cotton - but it's so low it's going to be marginal. When people tested SS with normal Ni200 mods, they reported it could give a TC vape with a similar high temp adjustment, but it would burn dry cotton.

I think it's the resistance. The max resistance of the device is 3.0Ω, so I wonder if it's getting confused because you're going over that limit. It certainly can't cope with 7.29Ω!

Although the very fact that it's showing different ohms at different TCRs is bizarre - the resistance reading is the resistance reading, it should just be a measurement - unaffected by the TCR. The TCR affects what temperature it measures for a given resistance, it doesn't change the actual resistance reading.

I'd strongly advise having another go with a much lower resistance coil. 1.0Ω or lower. if that all works fine you can try higher resistances later, but for the purposes of testing stick to low resistance to start with.

A 1.0Ω Stainless Steel coil heated to 232°C (450°F) will only increase resistance to 1.226Ω. A 2.5Ω SS coil will increase at the same temp to 3.05Ω, which puts it over the stated limit.

So theoretically being under 2.5Ω should be OK, but I'd stick with 1.0Ω max for testing.
 

pevinsghost

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I want ohms as high as possible, I tried on a 0.4 ohm triton coil before, and the temp jumped around too much. I'm assuming because the temp changes to resistance were so tiny.

I'll try again, 0.4 was too small, 2.8 was too big, let's see if I can find just right. :)

I'm thinking somewhere between 1 & 2 ohms.

Wish me luck, full speed ahead!
Will try doing wraps from 12 to 7.
 
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TheBloke

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I'm trying a 0.48Ω Stainless Steel coil now, one I already had and was using on my Dicodes. I set TCR to 0.00150

The results are immediately strange. I knew I'd need an offset so I set the temp to 190°C and it vaped OK, hit the temp quickly. So I increased up to 210°C, same thing - OK that's surprising because 210°C is 410°F and near the vaping temp. But then I remember that I often have to set Titanium too high, eg 260°C instead of 230°C, so maybe this 210°C is more like 180-190°C.

So I put it up to 225°C. Suddenly I get no vapour whatsoever - and I can see on the screen it's firing at 0.2W or similar. Put it up to 235°C and it fires a bit of vapour and then stops again.

I am investigating further. But it's possible it's simply broken at the low TCR levels.
 
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TheBloke

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I let it cool down and fired again and it set fire to my wet cotton :D Literally burst into flames, quite impressive actually.

This is the problem of having no wattage control at all.

I need to make another coil to rule out weirdness in this one. But it's not looking good!
 

DonnyX

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Funny I put a Kanger nickel coil on it works perfectly but aspire or titanium Joyetech coil does not work.

Now the Aspire Ni200 coil is working good. This temp control is very wonky. Still not liking that you can't set wattage at all.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
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Mad Scientist

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I let it cool down and fired again and it set fire to my wet cotton :D Literally burst into flames, quite impressive actually.

This is the problem of having no wattage control at all.

I need to make another coil to rule out weirdness in this one. But it's not looking good!

Yes, this thing is definitely ahead of its time. I'm starting to figure it out and actually like it now but it requires a lot of fussing.

For one, the cold resistance reading is not accurate but worse the inaccuracy is not linear. As a result, some playing around with cold resistance and/or a compensating adjustment to the TCR is needed for each atty. Once I get it set for a specific atty, it's actually great. It is definitely looking at a power/temp curve for the first few hits and adjusting its behavior to suit. Once it homes in on a solution, works like a champ (until the next atty or battery change). If you don't set the initial resistance and TCR to something it likes for the atty, either weak vape or smoking crater. I haven't spent enough time on it to discern a whole lot of rhyme or reason, so setting it up basically amounts to making a mental note of how far off the base resistance reading is versus actual, guessing at a likely TCR compensation as a result, and a minute or so of trial and error with the TCR to get a setting feels about right for the atty. I'm going to end up needing a chart for my attys lol.

In contrast, the snow wolf 200, for example is far more accurate. Initial resistance readings are consistently accurate within the limits of its resolution (I have a 510 connected 4 wire to an HP 3456A to check actual atty resistance for comparisons) and its temp control is perfect at least to the limits of my perception.

Do you have any sort of pipeline to Smok to pass along issues or suggestions? I'm hoping at some point they can do a firmware update to settle the thing down a bit. I'd love to know how they managed to make the error in the resistance readings non-linear lol.
 
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